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A moderator on one of forums made a big deal out if using those bearings. He said if you remove a seal on one side you could damage the bearing or contaminate it. “A human hair could ruin the bearing” guys chimed saying they’ve been doing for 30 years and no problems. His response was some people smoke for 30 years and never get cancer. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. I did mine exactly as this guy did. Thanks for the video, very helpful.

Clever knowledgeable man. Thanks

Did you increase the throttle to change and stabilize the reading?

Mine were doing the same. It's because your hanger is warm out at the bottom. It's that little tab that the pin from the rollers sit on behind the brake shoe. It's warn and lowers your entire brake shoe and the pin on top binds cause it's not aligned anymore. Pis up on your brake shoe when it's hanging like that and it'll go right in.

Thats like the welding inspection work i did the last 14 years. Mostly the powder is for hot surfaces because otherwise the oil will vaporate. Nice job you did. I have a 1940 Opel Kadett and the engine is almost the same.

Fantastic

good night , i have a ford , year 29 i live in Campinas SP Brazil i have a problem , water passed into the engine through the inlet valve of the fourth cylinder , the gasket is not burnt , i can not know how this water passed i have already removed the valve and i didn't see any cracks, can you give me any tips

Mr Karla, I really enjoy your videos. I drove a ‘30 Model A every day for 7 years as my work car. I belonged to MARC/MAFCA San Diego. Even so, there were very many things I never learned to do since I was a low-paid enlisted man during those 7 years. I never overhauled a transmission. Your instructions are very clear, succinct and concise. But my 74-year-old eyes aren’t very good and I can’t see through your hands. Would it be possible for you to use a pointer, wooden, plastic, laser or otherwise, to point out things in deep, dark places? Thanks for your consideration, Bob

When you take everything apart, do you recommend glass beading the parts before reassembling?

Thank you John. This tutorial is excellent and will be emortial for us Model A enthusiasts.

Thanks great video!

Where do I get the new type cluster gear seal plate ? Barry Hyrne hyrnebarry@gmail.com

I'm 16, I got my eye on a good running driving model a for cheap. 1929 tudor. No headlights but for $4,900 it's worth it

This is fascinating.

Does anybody manufacture these engine blocks/heads anymore.

I just learned more about transmissions than during my apprenticeship.

please tell me he is still alive???

Was there any kind of synchromesh transmission that was a direct replacement?

Fantastic video!

And then along came Sue Mitchell in California, to update the 3 speed crash box & turn it into something spectacular.............a synchro gearbox & diff. splitter.....fabulous.

Unbelievably small, so cool

Modelo a tudor 1931

Existe Corona de trasmisión trasera para más velocidad ford modela tudor y donde la consigo?

Hello UA-cam algorithm. We meet again.

will we ever return to this level of simplicity? may god help us all

This man knows more about the Model A drivetrain than I know about myself. Fantastic demonstration!

This is the best video I have ever seen u learn so much thank u for your time and knowledge!!

Awesome video, much appreciated.

THANK YOU for taking time to post this...its important because this video contains knowledge that can be very easy to lose and once lost hard to regain. I might find a manual of diagram but....this has other important data!!

A lot of very inportent information not given. Looks for another video.

good old non syncronzed 3 speed...

Awesome Video! Highly appreciated! Thanks so much for sharing! Greetings from Germany!

The adjusters have to be greased inside where they meet the cone & new springs are mandatory. They are the only means of returning the shoes tr zero......nothing else!

Thank you!! A lot of knowledge!!

Hi exellent video . I have model a but I have a problem with the gear box, everithing is new but the oil go oír from ahead no a lot . This is my car m.facebook.com/JesseGarage/photos/?tab=album&album_id=464568580247695&ref=page_internal

Instead is safety wire, why not use a drop of loc tight?

Thank you for the video,very instructive and very interesting.

Thank you very much for your video! Please do you have a center dimension beteween crank and valve control shaft the engine model A? Could you send me cleverson@tomers.com.br?

Excellent presentation thank-you

Could you just pressurize and wait to see if it drops?

Great details

Holy Crap.!! That was solid Gold👍🏻 Thank you so much for posting this. Awesome

Thank you for the video, John. I appreciate the information.

I really enjoyed watching this. Seems like John's been working on Model A's a long, long time.

Very interesting video. Thanks.

Spray bottles are much easier...just sayin

there might be a ridge on the back plate..that the shoe catches on

Great video! Obviously a professional at what you do!

There are some pretty amazing sealers out there these days. I'd damn sure give sealing that cooling system up with one of those on the bench before I'd throw a bunch of money at a "maybe" repair stitching. And by the way, how much air pressure are you putting to that block? Its pretty easy to make leaks with excessive pressure and AIR IS THINNER THAN WATER.

It looks to me like you could just as easily use the cylinder head itself. You'd have to flip the engine over and work from the bottom side looking for leaks or simply use a shut-off valve on your air supply, pressurize the block and see if it holds pressure. I've seen the "stitching" videos and I read about the process long ago but honestly I'm not sure why anyone would go clear down the cylinder wall "stitching" the block if its going to be bored and sleeved anyway. Obviously if a guy is going to rebuild an engine completely for a full restoration or race use, he'd want the block repaired properly, but I have a feeling there were tons of those old engines running around back in the day with cracks in the and nobody ever had a clue. I don't think they had pressurized cooling systems and typically cracks get smaller as the block heats up rather than larger. The low compression ratio might prevent any leakage of cylinder pressure into the cooling system anyway. I think there's also a pretty good chance that will a full modern rebuilt to gnat's ass specs and particularly with big compression and temperature increases in a high-performance applications, even a "good" block via pre-overhaul pressure test might end up cracked anyway.