Відео

yes

Not sure what you mean. I only use new engine bearings on a rebuild.

@@ilrperformance7152 the gearbox bearings look like the old ones 3:16. i did not see you replacing the gearbox bearings in the video.

Ah, I clean and check them but since a transmission spins much much slower than the crank and the bearings are always in transmission oil they rarely need any replacing. The customer ultimately makes the choice but well over 250 of these motors rebuilt and I've never seen a transmission bearing fail after rebuild. If they looked hot, or have any wear I replace them but replacing all of them in the trans that don't have any wear adds about $300 that can be better spent on other things.

@@ilrperformance7152 might be true. transmission bearings rarely fail. but if they do anyway you need to tear down the engine again only because of a few bearings you could have easily replaced the first time. and no, it does not add $300 to replace those bearings. they are not that expensive by far.

Thanks

Thanks

I've done a couple over the years but nothing bolts right on.

Got it!

Modern pistons and rings work fine with Nickasil or with Iron sleeves. You don't have to change anything. In the old days when they used hard chrome to plate cylinders you used softer rings on those but not anymore.

Thank you

Honestly it wasn't real hard. I was originally going to go with servo motors but once I decided on close loop steppers I went straight to Leadshine and bought their kits. Motor, power supply and driver in one stop. Then once I chose the Acorn board they have all the schematics you could possibly want so I just followed those. The little stuff was mostly me being anal and I wanted a really clean install so I went with DIN rails and wire guides to keep it clean. Tuning it in to be accurate is more time consuming.

@@ilrperformance7152 Great insight, I do appreciate the reply. Been looking into government auctions for Bridgeport knee mills since I saw your video. Thank you for the prompt reply. I will go ahead and go to those sites and begin my research to build it all in CAD before pulling the trigger.

I picked the Acorn after doing a lot of research and talking to several users. The makers of the Acorn board build turn key CNC machines so they know the interfaces well and they provide really good hook up instructions for so many configurations. Hook up went pretty well and each thing I add on has not been much work to get integrated. It has been a couple years now since I did the conversion without any problems. But like all projects it has evolved and gotten some additional mods.

@@ilrperformance7152 Can I ask what VFD you are using for this motor?

I have bigger bearings already so I haven't had any issues all the way up to just shy of 200 Ft/lb. I do grease them regularly so I don't have water issues. It's a pretty reliable brake so I haven't really had much repair required. I have a full machine shop so I usually just make anything I need to replace. Only part I'm a little worried about is losing the PC interface board but if I do I'll deal with it then.

@@ilrperformance7152 I've lost the weather station features and have to enter it all pressures manually now

Glad you like them!

Aftermarkets large intake for a TRX.

I used a 5mm pitch HTD belt and 2 /1 sprockets. Since the Bridgeport moves .200" per rev on the table it was really easy to dial in the distance per motor rev.

I did all of the research, bought the parts and did all of the assembly, so I'm into the whole CNC conversions right at about$1500.00. But honestly I didn't add every item up, some stuff I had here in the shop. I wanted a very heavy commercial Bridegeport for the stability. The newer clones or the smaller mills were just not rigid enough for my liking.

Thank you so much. I have decided to get an old BridgePort and recondition it. It will come out much cheaper and I believe I will end up with a better machine, plus the fun of rebuilding it. It looks like I can get a decent one for about $3K to $4K, about $5K to $6K for one that has 2 or 3 axis control. I would of course update all the electronics. From what I understand your machine had two axis motorized. You did not show how you converted the third (I guess the Z) to motorized. Can you show that? I am looking to do very similar to what you have. I am new to the whole vertical mill thing and machining but will be starting to put together a small machine shop at my home for personal use. If I start with a manual bridgePort, can I convert it to a full CNC or would it be much better for me to start with a bridgePort that is already 2 or 3 axis motorized. I do want the option to switch from CNC to manual as well. I think that if I find a decent 2 or 3 axis CNC BP, I would have to pay a little more upfront but the conversion may cost less? But, like I said, I am new to this so I don't know much. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for responding to my inquiry.@@ilrperformance7152

yes. The Bridgeport already has power quill feed and I didn't want to change that so I use the knee for the Z axis. It' so heavy its real smooth up and down.

just let me know

Glad it was helpful!

If I get a chance I'll gather up all of the parts that I bought. Took me a few months and lots of research but yes I'm real happy with the Lead Shine steppers kits paired with the Centroid controller. The Centroid pendant that I added later was a few minute set up.

Awesome content, suscribed

It's really solid. Cuts way heavier than I'm brave enough to try

Thank you

Thank you

I put my homing switches to set the table almost full positive X, mid travel Y and 12" down on Z (my knee is my Z axis). That gives me the table room I need for set up and for part removal, then I translate to the part coordinate system and machine in those coords.

The steppers I used have so much breaking when powered up you can't turn the cranks without breaking something. I bought Centroids wireless pendant (which was amazingly easy to install) so I just crank the pendant and put the table anywhere I want. I didn't plan on a pendant, but now that I have it I would not want to be without it. I can literally move the table in .001" increments when I need to, or up the speed and t moves damn fast.

Depends on what you have now for lead screws and X, Y and Z drives. You need good ball screws but if it was already NC it may have good screws. If it is a Bridgeport clone the spindle probably already has power down-feed so you'd need to disable a fair amount of the gear drives for that and replace with a stepper or servo. I chose to make my Z the knee. That way I still have the quill power feed but the Z has CNC control thru the knee. My A axis is a removable rotary table.

I'm really happy to add that ability.

I have the original 2 servo motors and all of the cabinet and electronics

@@ilrperformance7152 I am interested in purchasing them. My mill has had motors removed should I contact you at your web site?

The torque sensor is in the torque limiting arm itself. As the load is applied it flexes the blue arm and that produces the torque measurement. It's actually 12.00 inches from the center of the rotating shaft to the stationary pin that holds the torque rod. I didn't have to be exactly 12" but it makes calibration and mass compensation a little easier.

Thanks! Will do!

Correct, that cylinder doesn't have a power valve. It's an LA Sleeve 330 big bore cylinder originally but it been punched out to take the bigger sleeve.

I have an older dyno tour video posted but it doesn't get too many hits.

Thanks

Thanks for watching!

I used NEMA34 closed loop steppers, 9.0 Nm on all axis. They are more that I need on X and Y but pretty decent on Z. I don't lift a lot of big steel items on the knee though. Mostly make aluminum parts. If I needed more power I can change the 2:1 drive do a 3:1 drive and probably nothing would stop it before the drive nut broke.

Just curious why you believe that it's not a knee mill? Only asking because the paperwork I have with it and the repair manual call it a Bridgeport Series 2 Knee Mill.

But it has a knee…

I made it

I have found the Centroid to be a very good option. A lot of features and great support. Didn't really like Mach 4 on my router.

This started out as 2 axis CNC from Bridgeport so It has ball screws in X and Y already. I have not changed the Z to ball screw and so far it works fine since the weight of the knee minimizes backlash. The Acorn CNC has backlash compensation as well.

Yeah the Motul has proven to be a really good dyno premix oil. Lots of good options but I've pushed a few engines too hard and never had a lube failure yet.

ilrperformance.com

Its a catalyzed urethane satin black from PPG

That cylinder came of of an ATC250R, but it's exactly the same as the TRX250R. It is not an OEM Honda cylinder though. That is an LA Sleeve casting.

Ah, yes that was something I learned along the way. In high gear the spindle turns one way, but it turns the opposite way in low gear because of the gear reduction they use. I thought that my VFD was giving me grief and switching output on the 3 phase. I just set the VFD to run clockwise when I'm in high and counterclockwise when I'm in low.

Adding a counter balancer is do-able but it's a huge amount of work. Been a long time since I did one of those.

mine didn't vibrate near as bad as some I've seen . make sure the crank is balanced it will probably be fine.@@ilrperformance7152