Відео

@@noneya246 thanks for the kind words - appreciate it 😊👍🏼

Hello, I’ve not had much experience with pop rivet style handles. You can remove pop rivets using a few different methods (using either a pop rivet removal tool, drill bit, rotary tool, or flush cutting snips etc). Choose the method depending on access, type of rivet head, and least amount of damage. Plenty UA-cam videos on pop rivet removal. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. 👍🏼

Hello, it’s good to hear that drain rods are working ok 👍🏼. Sounds like you’ve got a stubborn one on your hands with the parents house. If you’re struggling with the rods on a big blockage, you can buy the Jetta pressure hoses these days on Amazon. It should make lighter work on the blockage than the rods. Basically attaches to your pressure washer and send the pipe down (like the professionals use). Good luck with it buddy 👍🏼

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 Just cleared out drain in the past half hour. They genuinely do work.

Good work buddy 👍🏼

Thanks for the support JR - appreciate it 👍🏼

Thanks JR 👍🏼

Thanks Shamol - appreciate the support 👍🏼

Hello, it's a Dewalt 'Multi-tool' (other makes are available) with grout remover and scraper blade. A link is provided in the description below the video to all of the equipment used in the video. I hope that this helps - all the best

​@makeitwork-propertydiy10 a.k.a. Oscillating tool. In the US, multi-tool can also refer to a gadget that serves several functions, like a screwdriver, hammer, paint scraper, wrench, and pliers in one.

@@dad1432 thanks for the extra information - it helps everyone out 👍🏼😊

HHello Karl, there is normally (depending on the model) a small retaining screw behind the main pillar of the tap in the middle (needing small Allen Key) if you need to gain access to the neck. If you need to replace the hot or cold cartridge (which is most common), there are small retaining screws under each tap handle (depending on model - Allen key often 2 to 2.5mm). Spanner to remove cartridge. You'll need to find the right size cartridge - a quick search online should do it (it might be ½” quarter turn but double check)- check screwfix. Depending on price and hassle, sometimes its worth replacing the cartridge, sometimes worth replacing the tap. Hope that this helps a little. All the best

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 Thanks for all that information very appreciated Regards Karl

Hello Tony, the tiles went on sometime after being plastered. A few sections of the wall needed to be boarded first, but mostly just new plaster on existing walls, then tiled. Then, tiles had to come back off again. Hope this helps 👍🏼

No need for silicone or PTFE on flexis, they seal with rubber washer on the face of the flanges

Thanks for the kinds words - appreciate the support 😊👍🏼

Hello, good question. I simply used the same scraper blade and ran it across the remaining adhesive. If you look at the clip @ 2:30 minutes ish you can see an example. I didn’t feature this in the video - sorry. Takes the wall back enough to re-tile. Hope this helps 😊👍🏼

​@@makeitwork-propertydiy10Ah I see, thanks!

Thanks Joe

Hello John, whole 'stop end' sections including new gasket, are retailing for as little as £2 from local hardware stores (e.g. screw fix). Please consider appropriate safety precautions if you plan to work at height. Thanks

Thanks Jason - I appreciate the support 👍🏼

Thanks Neil. I’ll refer you to the other comments posted on here by other people that have used the method (some of their tiles have been on for years). That should answer your question 👍🏼

Thanks John 👍🏼

Hello Gaz, Thanks for the message. Unfortunately, I haven’t come across any methods of installation from the inside (that isn’t to say it can’t be done). My advice would be safety first. If you’re not familiar with working at height safely, then I wouldn’t risk it. If you consider installation of cowl, check that it’s suitable for your specific appliance (meets Building Regulations Part F) - the company you’re buying from usually informs of its suitability - which helps. An alternative method could be the use of small single sided neoprene adhesive rubber tape on the flap to dampen the tapping sound on closure. All the best

Thanks for the support Paul - really glad it was useful for you mate 😊👍🏼

Hello Vanessa, thank you for the kind words - really appreciate it. Really glad it worked for you. All the best 😊

Next time eh 😂

Hello. It’s not always easy to comment effectively on individual cases (drain layout varies). If it’s a shared drain, and you cleared it first time (but it’s rising in your neighbours), you may have just pushed the blockage further down to your neighbours connecting drain. Alternatively, it could be blocked on neighbours side and backing up to your drain. Check if they are connected. You could try plunging your drain again, and/or your neighbours man hole drain (if they agree). That might clear it. If it’s not a shared drain, try plunging again as sometimes it’s not fully cleared first time around. Unfortunately, sometimes the blockage is so stubborn that it might need a Jetta hose (professionals have one or you can buy attachments for jet wash online) In terms of retrieving the drain rod and worm screw, once clear, you could try using a ‘drop scraper attachment’ and pull it back towards you. Plenty of videos on UA-cam showing this method. If you can access a drain further down you could try pushing the worm screw back up the drain using the plunger attachment. Hope this helps. Failing this, get the professionals in 👍🏼

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 Thanks so much for your advice. I'll get back to you and let you know how I get on.

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 Hi, I managed to clear the drain... Again! I've flushed it down with several large buckets of water it looks ok now. Also, after a couple of hours F-ing around with a drain scraper, I've managed to get the rods out that were stuck in the drain. No sign of the corkscrew though. Is it possible that it could be flushed harmlessly away, or could I have a bigger problem in my hands?

Hello, thanks for the update. Great news that you’ve managed to clear the blockage and retrieve the rods (the latter is never easy - Good work!) Not sure if you needed to use the rods on next door too (if that was causing the blockage). My advice would be to keep a close eye on it over the coming week. It’s quite possible that the worm screw could have been flushed into the main sewer and no longer a problem. There’s also a chance it’s still in there (not easy to say - might be small enough to not be a major issue). If you’re still having problems, some people opt for a camera inspection. Please keep us posted 👍🏼

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10Thanks, it was a frustrating task trying to get them back. I was just about to call it a day when I could feel the scraper catching it.. phew! As for the corkscrew, I was was hoping that it flushing into a main sewer would be a possibility! I'll leave it alone now until Monday, and I'll get back to you again, to let you know how I've gotten on. Thanks again for the tips!

Hello, there’s a link in the description for the company if you need it (I’m not affiliated) - it’s the ‘Georgian’ style.

Thank you for the kind words and support - appreciate it 👍🏼😊

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Hello Charles, it's difficult to comment effectively on specific cases as I don't have all the details. However, I'll try to offer a little information to help- then you can decide what you think works best for you. The current UK building regulations document - 'Approved Document F Ventilation' (2010 approved 2021 edition) point 1.10 states 'Ventilation may be delivered through natural ventilation, mechanical ventilation or a combination of both.' In both bathrooms and sanitary dwellings (e.g. toilet & sink only), extract ventilation is recommended (point 1.17). So, you could consider having mechanical ventilation (extractor fan) installed to help (rather than a standard air brick vent). Increasing air flow is key. It’s also important to consider the main cause of the condensation. If it’s the usual culprit (shower or bath), then the logical step would to be to install mechanical ventilation. It’s also worth checking other sources of potential moisture in the room (e.g. is there any water ingress from faulty windows, pipes, and even outside - gutters, roof, pointing in brick work and address any obvious issues too. Because the building regs are a little heavy reading check out this handy website for further details www.plumbworld.co.uk/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-bathroom-ventilation

building regs are here assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1045918/ADF1.pdf

Thanks for the comment Dave. Use a lump hammer if you like - what ever best suits your situation 👍🏼

And if you need to save YOURSELF some money and not buy new tiles or re-do the entire bathroom, this method is probably the best I've seen until now. I am just scared other tiles might start falling. I have to replace two pipes and need to remove just two rows of tiles, i don't want to re-do the entire bathroom. I might go get one of the cheaper oscillating multitools and try this method. Hopefully I won't break the entire wall.. :D

Thanks for the positive comment and kind words of support Tsetso - really appreciate it. I’m not sure if it helps, but I’ve used this method as seen in the video and previously to take off some smaller sections 4-6 tiles in square/rectangle shape without effecting the rest of the tiles on the wall (for access to plumbing - I didn’t think to film it sorry). I’ve found that if you take your time, and really make sure that you remove all of the grout around only the tiles that you want to remove, using the grout removal tool first, when you use the scraper blade it has little to no effect on surrounding tiles with remaining grout. Where you can it’s worth supporting the adjacent tile with your hand. If I’m honest, I’ve never removed a full single or double row. As with any method there’s always a risk that some other tiles could come off in the process. If you really need to get access to the pipes, it might be worth a try. 👍🏼

Thanks for the kind words and support Zurgit - much appreciated 😊👍🏼

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 I was hesitant to take tiles off that had been up over 17 years.. I went ahead after watching this….. wow…. Easy work… not much mess… everything was off in an hour… that’s clearing up into rubble bags and out the kitchen…. Totally impressed. Thanks again 🙏🏼

Excellent news Zurgit - really glad that it helped. Thank you so much for taking the time to update and for the kind words - really appreciate it. All the best 😊👍🏼

It’s straight forward enough Julie - good luck with the project 👍🏼😊

I replaced the handles with new ones. However , My handle is a bit loose / wobbly . Can it be the rod size or rod width issue ? Original handles looked exactly like the old ones you replaced. The 2 screws at the base of the handle are tightly screwed in . Thanks

@@n1npo Hello, is it wobbling where the base plate meets the window frame? If so, usually the screws that hold it firmly against the window frame are loose/ not tight enough or the screws might not be long or wide enough for the thread. In that case you could try new screws in the frame. Also check if the spindle is too long, as it may prevent the baseplate from tightening against the frame properly even if the screws are tight . Hope this helps 👍🏼

Thanks Joe

Thanks for the kind message and support Tim - really appreciate it 😊👍🏼

My advice would be to measure the existing hole circumference, in relation to combined widths of the two flexi-tails and thread screw. There needs to be enough circumference for all three to slide through. Also ensure that the base of the new monobloc that sits on top is wider than the hole (unlikely to be a major issue as they often are). The biggest issue is likely the fact you’ll be changing from two holes to one, so you should think about how you’ll cover the other hole. I hope that this helps. 👍🏼

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10yes thank you for taking the time to answer.

Thank you for the kind words. Good luck with your project 👍🏼

Hello Craig, thanks for the question. It isn’t always straight forward to answer. An array of factors can influence air flow in specific properties, and different locations, but I’ll try to offer as much information as I can so that you can make an informed decision. In this video I show installation of a hooded air cowl to cover a double air brick/vent under the window (air brick installed to increase ventilation in the cavity wall). Cowls tend to be installed / recommended mainly for specific air bricks that are positioned in exposed areas to reduce uncomfortable air ‘blasts’ and water ingress during high winds and bad weather (not necessarily needed/recommended for all airbricks). Or they are considered in instances where you notice an obvious problem. For example, the air gusts entering our living room space from one airbrick were so notable that some evenings it managed to extinguish decorative candles on the side. In your case….. As you probably know, air bricks used to vent underfloor-timber suspended floors, such as Victorian properties, are extremely important to prevent sub-floor condensation, damp and decay. You also have insulation (not sure what kind) - good idea if done right. It’s advisable to offer as much airflow as possible in these circumstances, unless of course there’s an obvious problem (wind blasts, water ingress damage via a specific air brick). Many hooded cowls do meet NHBC requirements and building regulations (check with manufacturer), and permit void ventilation (which is good), but ultimately they could reduce airflow in some conditions. I hope you appreciate that it is difficult to comment effectively on the impact that your proposal might have specifically on airflow under your specific house (upon suspended wood floors), as there are many factors that impact air flow. We tend to use them only in instances where it’s really necessary (as mentioned above). It’s worth asking the question what is the reason for wanting to install them? I hope this helps….. **Important note** For others reading, please note that air bricks which are installed for gas appliances should only be installed by a registered professional - please don’t attempt this yourself. Please find some links below that you may find helpful. NHBC Damp proofing and ventilation: nhbc-standards.co.uk/5-substructure-ground-floors-drainage-and-basements/5-2-suspended-ground-floors/5-2-10-damp-proofing-and-ventilation/#:~:text=In%20the%20case%20of%20timber,concrete%20and%20timber%20suspended%20floors. Build regulations 2010 C: section 4 floors page 25 assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a8192a0e5274a2e8ab54b5f/BR_PDF_AD_C_2013.pdf www.fastbuildsupplies.co.uk/knowledge-hub/air-bricks-and-underfloor-ventilation-building-regulations/

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the project - hope it all goes smoothly 👍🏼

I attached the hood using screws, raw plugs and CT1 which is a combination of adhesive and sealant (see details in the description) because this is the most secure method. A good exterior adhesive and sealant combination might work ok if the hood is light enough and the wall surface has good tact, but may be less secure than screws. I hope that this helps. 👍🏼

Glad it helped - good luck with the project 😊👍🏼

Thank you 😊

Hello Naveed, I used yellow 5mm raw plugs and 5mm drill bit. It should be more than enough to hold the cover as it’s not heavy. I hope that helps….

@@makeitwork-propertydiy10 perfect thanks!

It was bought from a UK company and it is also available from larger/typical retailer outlets such as Amazon. All equipment used in the video is now available in the video description. Hopefully, this will help viewers

Hello Julius, thank you for your kind words - I hope that it was useful.

Hello Callum, it’s a H10 710 headlight bulb from Halfords.

I hope that it helps. All the best with the project 👍🏼

I know the feeling. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching 👍🏼

Thanks for watching!