Відео

Yes I can put those in a comment. My ash bin is about 1/3 full each Sunday during the cold months. There is another 1/4 bins worth that falls in the side areas too. It will be a few days however before I can get to it. - Curtis.

Hello Adam. Sorry for the delay, I was out of town. My Francesca has a vertical 3” flue about 15’ tall and I pull combustion air from the crawl space via a 2” pipe. After I cleaned my stove the first time as shown in my videos, I reran the RDS set up. I found the codes online and a dealer present on how to do it. I still had some ignition problems with way, way too many pellets on ignition so I changed some of the IGNITION parameters (default settings) TF01 is the auger pulse now 3.6 seconds TF02 is the auger run time for initial load of pellets now 3 minutes. TF04 is the igniter timer and I backed it down to 120 seconds. Now the burn pot fills about 3/4 full and the auger stops while the igniter is heating up. It’s been a long time since I’ve had a failed start up with these settings. I also don’t have overflowing pellets during the initial “flame light” and 8 minute warm up like I used to after the “professionals” did my initial install. My stove runs in modulation about 90% of the time and the flame is so low sometimes you can’t see it unless you are looking down into the pot, perfect! My stove is ready for another deep cleaning. After that I’ll fuss with the user parameters If you want to contact me via email for more in depth discussions - fubartractorfactory@gmail.com Thanks, Curtis

Steve did you switch pellet brands? That happened to me once during brand change. I also had a pile of pellets at the top of feed cute once during a cleaning. Maybe try poking up there with your bottle brush. 🤷🏼‍♂️

@FUBARtractors I did switch, could the pellets be bigger or burn different? They told me they were soft wood. I went from lacrite to waste to warmth. I'm running it in rds mode to see if it can adjust. Frying blind but I'll try anything. I also used a shop vac on the feed tube to suck out any stuck pellets but still doing the same.

Yes Steve I’ve noticed different brands have different sizes of pellets. Always in RDS. I’ve always burned Douglas fir, a soft wood. Clean burn pellets were small and caused the stove to go out also put a lot of white crap on the glass that tasted salty. Burn pot was always orange like rust. I use Olympic now. Much longer, no white on the glass and burn pot is not as rusty looking. Try increasing your pellet feed. While stove is on, hit OK, OK to enter user menu. Advance thru icons with button 2 several times to get to set draught/ pellets, OK. Use button 2 (+) to move curser to the right increasing pellet %, OK to save. Experiment! My pellet % is at -4 because of the switch to Olympic. I kept reducing it until it barely stayed lit on modulation. Let me know how it goes.

@@FUBARtractors thanks! Works perfect now.

Hi Sabrina. Sorry I have not looked for that seal. I did a quick Google search for “high temp stove pipe sealant”. There are a lot of silicone sealants that say they are good to 600° F. I’d probably try building up a “dam” in the area of the break (same height and width) with the silicone and let it cure before assy. If that’s not feasible, I’d seal the elbow after assy. Good luck and let us know how you fixed it so others can use your fix! Thanks, Curtis

Try RUT78 rutland stove gasket cement. Claims it is good to 2000°F

ok thank you! so i can put a bead of this along the connection (inside, it's got a little well, ugh so hard to explain, i'm not a stove pipe type of person but i know how they work! lol) of the pipe and put back together? I'm more worried about a leak at this point AND would i be able to take it apart again next year for cleaning?@@FUBARtractors

Hmmm. If the old gasket is loose and fell out then I think I would assemble the elbow to blower housing and add a bead around the joint between the two. I might even use a finger to smooth it into the joint all the way around. Paper towels at the ready to clean my finger. If the gasket is still inside the pipe but there is a gap. I would try to fill the gap with some sealant and smooth it as necessary to be the same height and width of the existing gasket. Then let it cure for a day and try assembling the pipe. Alternately do a Google search for a replacement gasket or UA-cam for someone who has dealt with this before. Good luck! Curtis

i was able to find a new seal, had to build it up a little with high temp silicone but it worked great! thank you so much, it's difficult to find any info on these stoves. I do have another question for you though if thats ok? Should the centrifugal fan be blowing constant? i only ask because i noticed mine wasn't, and the stove was getting a little hot. Could this mean it needs to be replaced, or can i remove it and give it a good cleaning you think? thanks again.

Hi Beverly. I tried using it to load arborist chips into a John Deere tow behind yard cart and it performed very well. 4 scoops vs. 24 shovel full to fill the cart. I use a lot of arborist chips and this is going to make life a lot easier!! Thanks for the kind words. Curtis.

Air brakes. OMG how cool is that! Do upload a vid of that soon!!

@@FUBARtractors Thanks buddy

I could only get 5 barrels at a steal of a price. At that time they were $35 or more each and I paid $5 for three and two were free. I didn’t do any calculations at all. I wanted to make something that recharged like a battery. Didn’t see anything else out there so tried my concept. It came on yesterday and dropped the shop from 75 to 72 before it started to run away and I flipped it off. Meaning it stayed at 72 but the barrel temp was climbing steadily. Ground temp this morning was 61, barrels (without recharging) 62. Last night was very cool but I forgot to flip the switch back to ‘arm’ so it sat idle. From experience, I think the barrels would have been down to 58-59°.

Offgrid - Today after recharge running for several hours the barrel temps are 57° F, ground temp is 60° the ground temp sensor is influenced by the barrels a bit because it’s only 1.5 feet away. If I had to do this over I would not bury the drums. I would build a very well insulated box for the water battery. My recharge circuit could bring the battery down to mid 50’s if it weren’t for the ground heat. GOOD LUCK!!!

@@FUBARtractors That would work as long as you have cool nights. My use will be more for heat in the greenhouse so I will use the ground and the barrels for the heat sinc.

Sorry no. The only thing I can offer is do google search from time to time. Sometimes the techs / office staff post stuff mistakenly outside their firewall. Then download it quick. Here today gone tomorrow.

You’re welcome. Thank you!

Thanks Scoot. Even after 40 years it’s probably worth saving!

Hello Don, I’ve never tried to remove the bundle. I just use the bottle brush and flail it up there!!

@@FUBARtractors sounds not unlike the colonoscopy I just had lol. The cleaning handle for the heat exchange tubes doesn’t go all the way back into the front of the stove. I’ve tried to clean it all off and it still gets stuck nearly 3/4 of the way back in. if I can just get my head and eyes inside the stove and upside down I think I can get it

@@RealMitchRapp lol. Yup mine gets stuck too. I’ve increased my draught all the way up last week so it’s time to clean it again. The flame looks a little lazy. Bummer. 3 hours I won’t get back.

@@FUBARtractors wife HAD to have this beautiful stove but there are NEAR ZERO technicians in the US. So it goes. We make it work.

I’d Google the warranty claim to see if the manufacturer or dealer provides a warranty. A quick Google and I didn’t see anything encouraging however. Good luck. Glad you like the video

Hello Andrew. I run my stove on setting 4. I also run it using the thermostat so it runs on “work” then down to “modulation” om Modulation it goes from 5” flames to barely a flame cycling randomly. I’ve tried setting 5 but it spews out too many red hot pellets that end up in the ash bin. After a week, the ash in the bin is piled up and coming out of the front left corner of the bin. A quick shake and it’s about 1/2 full. Sometimes if the house is cold soaked (51°F) it will run on high for 6 hours before switching to low. I use the stove thermostat set to 66 or 69. A thermostat on the wall right next to the stove tops out at 71 to 75° depending on outside temps. You can adjust your pellet drop and burn fan with the user settings.

Cheers I appreciate it! How many bags do you go through a day? Would you mind posting your airflow/pellet flow % that you use? Understandablly it depends on the type of pellets. But I guess since you are at a high setting (4) it burns them more efficiently.

Hi Andrew. About 1/3 to 1/2 bag a day, more if the house is cold soaked and 51°. As time goes on and the stove gets dirtier I change the user settings. When I run out of adjustment the stove gets cleaned. I’m just about there now. I used the RDS set up after my first deep clean. It picks all the draught and pellet values for setting 1-5. I don’t know what those settings are at the moment. I’m at -3% pellets and +4 % flow.

@@FUBARtractors Really appreciate it. I'll make some adjustments to my settings to see what fits best. one last question, the temperature probe located behind the unit, how far or how close from the unit is it? I'm trying to find the optimal distance to have an ideal temp (between the top temp probe and the back temp probe)

I have my thermocouple stretched out as far as it will reach. I think it’s a couple inches. When I bought the stove the instal bastards didn’t pull it out so it reached temp in an hour or so and I had to lie to the thermostat setting and set it in the high 70’s. I think that’s the only thermostat (thermocouple or thermistor or what ever it is). You can plug in a thermostat but you have to click the box on the display to have it read that one instead of the onboard one.

Hello Dan. I haven’t cleaned out the air intake on my stove. My stove pulls air from the crawl space under the house. When I replaced the airflow sensor the intake pipe was very clean. If you pull air from the room yours might need cleaning but I think you might have had an airflow sensor error by now too. The Google searches I did when my sensor went bad said to clean the sensor first but mine was very clean. If you decide the intake needs cleaning, be very careful around the airflow sensor. It’s a printed circuit board sticking into the pipe. One of my videos discusses replacement of the sensor. Thank you for your kind comments.

Thanks Steve! Without a shopvac it would be a Sh** Show. Never thought about dragging it outside on a handtruck (stack truck). Would probably be faster but the neighbors might not like the cloud of dust....

What phase is this occurring in? Work, modulation, flame light or waiting flame? If it’s work or modulation adjust your pellet auger to run a bit longer using your display. Go to Menu User (ok) use button 2 to scroll to set draught/pellets (ok) change your percent pellets to move the indicator to the right (higher) If in the waiting flame/flame light phase you can test it by putting a dozen pellets in the burn pot before you start it and if that solves the problem you will need to adjust your internal parameters (either the fill time (in minutes) or the auger pulse time (in X.X seconds) which requires a key code.

@@FUBARtractors It's happening during modulation.

@@gsquare8585 yup! I had the same problem when I switched pellet brands but mine was going out. I’d see a pile of unburned pellets in the pot and “out of pellets” on the display. The hopper would be full. Increase your pellet % thru the user display as I described if it bothers you or the stove goes out. I run mine as low as possible to conserve pellets and not have to shut it down because the room is too hot. As a reference, sometimes on Modulation I see no flame unless I go look down into the pot and then I see just a hint of a flame on a pellet or two. Later it will be three or so inches high again. I still get flame outs but not more than one ever couple of months. That is acceptable to me.

@@FUBARtractors Thanks Curtis, that's kind of what I was thinking. No error codes is a good thing! It goes on and off as it is supposed to.

@@FUBARtractors Good morning, the glass appears to have more black soot than before when it was basically white. would I need to increase the air? Thanks,

Hello Mason. The wattage of the outdoor fan and pump is approximately 125 watts. The indoor fan and the same pump is about 175 watts. I thought about insulating the battery. I noticed during the summer outside temps are not much lower than ground temps. However Ive seen the battery 10 degrees higher than ground temps. So I don’t know if insulating would be a net negative. I think a battery twice the size would help during the afternoons but then cooling it down at night would require higher airflow or two radiators. This cooling system is a novel idea but it’s only marginally useful. It sure is fun to show it to people tho! Thanks for your comment. - Curtis.

Hello Gsquare. No, I had the stove “professionally” installed. I was told newer houses (mine built 1993) are sealed tighter and it might affect the stove performance. The pipe is 2” spiral aluminum tube similar to a dryer vent. They broke a hole in the hearth with a chisel and then used a hole saw to drill down thru the floor. They pushed a rod down to dislodge the insulation and pushed the pipe in. There is a black flange to hide the nasty damage to the hearth. The air inlet on the stove is smaller so they crushed the aluminum pipe by hand and used aluminum duct tape to attach it. If your stove is near an outside wall I would go thru the wall horizontally. Make sure you screen the opening. In the spring I went down in the crawl space to inspect the inlet and found the insulation laying on the vapor barrier. A “professional” job.

Well I was just taking the top screw out from the top inside firex and sure enough, it snapped. Got a little nub now sticking out. Hit it with liquid wrench and am praying it loosened up enough to take it out with a pair of vise grips.

Hello Tomislav. My stove has fiber gaskets on both the side and front access covers. They are white and easy to damage however they are adhered to the stove. Be careful removing the covers. The gaskets were stuck in places to the covers too. I read the same warning you did and have not removed the combustion fan because of this warning. I’m sure with a little searching you could find replacement gaskets if needed. I’ve seen them on line. Some are orange rubber looking and some are like mine (white fiber) Good luck!!

@@FUBARtractors I appreciate the videos, I have a RV 80 and trying to find any information on these stoves is tough. Love my Ravelli! Keep the videos coming!

I got my Flow meter and holder from Earth Sense Energy Systems Inc. PH-55255 is the part number they use. I just did a search and found one on eBay and here too: pellet-stove-parts-4less.com/products/ravelli-pellet-stove-flowmeter-and-holder-55255-amp?variant=41307021508780&gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeUGMhVY2mkf_oIgaANKX2XuiDVqUSN0ndiOpi-z8HAVzbEYHkv00WRoCqRsQAvD_BwE

25000 hours? Wow!! That is almost 3 years running 24 hrs a day! Do you run it using the internal thermostat or just on High (work) or low (modulation)?

@@FUBARtractors I set temperature at 20 degree (68) and extracted the ambient sensor for 10 cm and curved 90 degree up. Power i select from 3 to 5 depending on outside temperature

Nice. But how come this dude can buy this for ~30 USD and I would have to pay ~168 USD for the same thing here in Sweden? 😢

@@antondnice We are not sure what happened with that container shipped to the states in 2008. Only the financial crisis struck, and the buyer who was supposed to sell them in the states filed for bankruptcy. They were probably auctioned out for a low price is my guess.

Yes, mine is a LOT of work. I bought it because it was red, seriously. Mine has the tube bundle scraper but it still gets a lot of build-up in areas it doesn't contact. I think a mini-split is on the to do list now. Take care, thanks for your comment Stephen.

I’ve had pellets on top of the heat exchanger too. I check that area every time I vacuum the stove. Pellets can overflow the front of the hopper. Take off your ceramic cover. See the 5 circular holes just under the cover? You’ll notice the top edge of the hopper by looking thru those holes. There is a gap between those two parts. Pellets can also bounce into the 5 holes while filling even if you have the ceramic cover in place. Listen when you fill the hopper. I’ve gotten good at distinguishing the sound of pellets that fall on top of the heat exchanger.

@@FUBARtractors Thanks Curtis. I can see how some pellets would bounce up. But there were also pellets in the shallow water reservoir too! Is it still possible for pellets to bounce directly into that pan? It's almost as if someone not knowing how to load the stove started loading in that compartment rather than the hopper....

Hello John, not yet. Probably at the end of February. I’m also planning to get some borescope shots if it works out to see inside the blower housing.

@@FUBARtractors That's great. Lots of good information.

Thanks for your comment, I agree with your analysis completely!! I’m considering a Mr Cool mini split for my house. I’m getting very tired of cleaning and repairing my pellet stove.