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Sorry to hear that happened to you. Regarding the internal fuse, its not typically recommended to access inside the controller on your own without contacting support for two reasons. First, it is not easy to take apart and put back together correctly; there are long pins that connect the display and the circuit board and if not put together right it can make it look like the cell is dead. Second, if the internal fuse trips it often means there is an electrical issue with the OEM power center which this cell connects to and this should get looked at during such a situation. Otherwise the issue could continue to happen. For these reasons its not a common thing to need to do.

@@DiscountSaltPool - replacement unit showed up and is working like a Champion. Only 2 screws holding the CELL to the Control Panel. The control Panel has 4 Philips holding the cover on. Removed those and a 15 AMP Car Fuse is inside. removed the plug to the Flow Switch and removed the Cell. Control Panel Blows Fuse = control panel was bad from Stock. Side Note - My Part was from another company- should have gone with you guys I guess

"cuting the crap" out, like eliminating much of the difficulty?

You want that, actually. You'll have the best experience if all of your water balance levels are correct starting out. Remember that what you are doing is installing a salt chlorine generator - its generating chlorine from the salt in the water. It just does that in a way that is more cost effective, more convenient & consistent, and also makes the water quality more enjoyable.

😂

According to its description, it does not utilize a RS-485 data connection to external controllers. It would be powered from the existing power center and then controlled via its onboard control screen

It's an electronic chlorine generator for pools, also known as a "salt chlorinator". It generates chlorine automatically everyday when the pump runs, which can save up to 50% over traditional chlorination according to industry estimates, and is also much more convenient. You can see more about this product at the link below, let us know if you have more questions: www.discountsaltpool.com/CircuPool-Universal25-Salt-Chlorine-Generator_p_491.html

You would be surprised the amount of people with fish farms, decorative ponds, or growers who call or email about this prefilter. Some basic things to check to see if it is a good fit are if you can use 2" or 1.5" pvc pipe with a flow rate anywhere between 13-130 GPM, and if what you are trying to filter out "sinks" (as opposed to floats - centrifugal filtration is very effective at debris that is heavier-than-water). You can see more in its manual linked below: www.discountsaltpool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-TJ16-Typhoon-cyclonic-prefilter.pdf

@DiscountSaltPool Thank you for the reply. I think I might try this with my tilapia, if it doesn't work for that application I'll hook it up to the pool.

The prefilter has a pretty negligible impact overall, to be precise you can see in the manual (link below) on page 6 there is a chart of head loss at different flow rates: www.discountsaltpool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-TJ16-Typhoon-cyclonic-prefilter.pdf

Yes, you really do need to use two units with a combined capacity specification of 84,000 - 112,000 gallons. The high end of that range is for living somewhere in the sunbelt and the low range for elsewhere. That being said, you really can't have too much capacity. As far as balancing and clearing up your water, it's a good idea to largely accomplish that with your existing system before you install or before you turn on the system. Bear in mind that the initial salination can also take 1-2 days to fully dissolve the salt. In terms of any resource to address a multi-system installation, please e-mail us at info@discountsaltpool.com and we'll provide you with a diagram and some additional tips on installing two systems on one pool. Our answer is already rather lengthy. We look forward to your message.

Using an electronic chlorine generator is an investment. Its usually more than you'll spend in one season for chlorine, but the industry estimate for many is up to 40-50% lifetime savings. I would say $700-1500 for the chlorine generator would be more typical for most people based on current prices. You can see options here: www.discountsaltpool.com/saltwater-chlorine-generator-systems-for-all-swimming-pools

With the typical installation, vacuumed debris that goes through your pump would then go through the prefilter. It is highly effective at capturing sediment, and can easily get purged. If perhaps for some reason you would want your vacuumed waste to bypass the prefilter, you could plumb a bypass valve before it or utilize this prebuilt kit (www.discountsaltpool.com/Bypass-Valve-Assembly-Kit-for-CircuPool%C2%AE-TJ16-Pre-Filter-For-Use-with-DE-Filters-Only_p_701.html)

There are two valid approaches here, depending on the rest of your plumbing. You can certainly install your salt chlorinator in the space currently occupied by your chlorine tower, or if you have sufficient room, then the dispenser can be kept in place in case you ever want to use the dispenser on a temporary or short term basis.

Glad it was helpful!

This link will get you there: a.co/d/fdT1Rl7 5/32 Outside Diameter will do the job.

You are correct. With a flow switch the system will operate automatically when the pump is moving adequate water through the system. A timer can be useful if you only want to chlorinate for part of the time your pump is circulating the pool water.

Thank you for your interest! The CircuPool Core Series of Salt Chlorine Generators can be purchased by visiting www.discountsaltpool.com/circupool-core-series or calling (866) 766-5243 weekdays between 9-5 Central.

@@DiscountSaltPoolWhat is the life of the cell and how and how often is it cleaned? Does entire unit need to be replaced?

The exact answer to both questions are going to depend on your setup. Cleaning has the simplest answer - almost all systems currently available should require cleaning seasonally with balanced water chemistry. Water chemistry controls this, a higher or lower "saturation index" could cause more frequent or less frequent cell cleanings to be needed. Lifespan is going to be completely dependent on your sizing (the model you choose vs your pool capacity), your pool usage, how well you maintain the water chemistry, your environment, etc... On average people fall within the range of 3-8 years for chlorine generators, some more, some less. Think of it like a big barrel of chlorine as it has a certain capacity to create chlorine over its lifespan. If you get a small model and the pool has high chlorination needs, you'll deplete it quickly; if you get a big model and the pool has low chlorination needs, it will experience much less wear and tear. Once the cell is depleted, you simply replace the cell itself (no need to replace the whole system).

Actually, installing a CircuPool Core Series Salt Chlorinator really is that simple! However, you touch on an interesting point. A saltwater chlorinator needs sufficient water flowing through the cell to operate correctly. The CircuPool Core utilizes a "flow switch" located inside the cell housing which only allows the unit to energize the cell when adequate water is moving through the system. The alternative is to utilize a timer set to only supply power to the chlorinator during times that the pump is also operating. Regarding your heater, the video states that the saltwater chlorinator should be the last(!) thing the water goes through before returning to the pool. Of course, all of this is covered in the owner's manual: www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-CORE-Manual.pdf

Yes, it works oriented horizontally or vertically. You'd just tilt your head to look at the vertical controls.

That would be the the 31000KL model, which is commercial-grade: www.discountsaltpool.com/Pool-Blaster-MAX-Li-CG-Cordless-Vacuum-Lithium-Powered-Water-Tech-31000KL_p_700.html

You can see our current offerings at the link below, or feel free to speak with one of our product experts at 866-766-5243 and we'll be happy to help you with your options. www.discountsaltpool.com/replacement-salt-cells-for-saltwater-chlorine-generators

Thanks, and yes it seems like the manual got less development than the actual technology did. Sounds like you might be hitting +/- together to go into the diagnostic menus, which aren't really intended to be utilized outside of a service situation. What you mention are the cell type settings, for if the electronics were mated with any of the available three cell sizes; you wouldn't want to change that.

For salt chlorine generators, you add 30 lbs of salt for every 1000 gallons in the pool. Salt comes in 40lb bags, so for "average" pool sizes it would be common to add anywhere from 8-20 bags after installation (again, based on actual pool size). This brings the water to a very low safe salinity level (~3000ppm) which is still very close to what is considered "fresh water". The salt doesn't get used up, and only needs to be replenished because of dilution because of things like rain.

Great question. Cyclonic filtration is definitely best at capturing dirt/debris/sediment that "sinks". For an application like you describe, you could look into "bag filters", which are a type of pre-filter that use a mesh cone which can come in range of micron levels. While they are not commonplace, bag filters can catch floating debris that is small enough to make it past your pump strainer and would otherwise annoyingly fill up your main filter.

Good question, this system's Control Module (what you're probably calling monitor) is not a separate piece (its what has the lights and buttons on the video). So what you see here is the complete system.

That's funny, and technically correct too - you won't get a "salt water" experience from a pool that uses a salt system (chlorine generator). You probably know, but just in case, the salinity level that chlorine generators use (3000ppm) is just slightly outside the range of freshwater (1000ppm) and nothing like the ocean (35000ppm). Its safe for surfaces, materials, and equipment, you don't taste it, and it simply enables the chlorine generator to keep the pool water clean and eliminate the hassle and expense of traditional pool chlorination.

Great question. UV systems are a great supplement to your pool system, and they definitely reduce the amount of chlorination needed. To say it simply though, since you still need a primary source of sanitization of the pool water, there's really no better way to do that than with a salt chlorine generator which can take over 100% of your pool's chlorination needs. UV systems reduce that, ozone systems greatly reduce that, but the pool needs something that provides "residual" sanitation, which those don't. What a lot of people do who want really high-end water quality is get a small salt chlorine generator and pair it with ozone/uv, and that can be cost effective as well. You might appreciate the link below, and feel free to call our product experts for direct assistance: 866-766-5243 www.discountsaltpool.com/chlorine-alternative-comparison-for-pool-owners-essential-guide

The size of your pool will determine which salt chlorine generator you'll need. Take a look at the link below to see your options, and you'll be able to get sizing recommendations to fit your needs. www.discountsaltpool.com/saltwater-chlorine-generator-systems-for-all-swimming-pools

Great question. Years down the road when the cell is depleted, it is easily replaced and typically costs about half the cost of the complete system. Then you should get just as many years without having to manually buy and add chlorine, so this means that your savings essentially double at that point! You can see a quick infographic about that here: www.discountsaltpool.com/replacement-salt-cells-for-saltwater-chlorine-generators#does-a-salt-cell-save-money

Salt just goes directly into the pool water when you install it - that's the easiest part. It works with any type of filter you use. Below is a link that gives you a complete picture of adding a salt chlorinator to your pool, or give us a call and we are happy assist: 866-766-5243 www.discountsaltpool.com/DIY-Friendly-How-to-Convert-Your-Pool-to-a-Salt-Water-System

Petty, bro.

Haha, when a pool isn't working right that definitely feels like what you want to do. Fortunately it doesn't have to be like that with modern pool systems that make it virtually effortless to keep the water blue and clear. Happy to help with any specific problems at 866-766-5243

The CORE Series is marked for 2A/240V or 4A/120V, which is fairly low power consumption. Its works on the same circuit as your pump or is powered through a standard outlet.

Using an electronic chlorine generator is even easier! Plus average industry estimation is 40-50% lifetime savings over conventional chlorination... Plus eliminating harsh chlorine effects in the water... Here is a good resource: www.discountsaltpool.com/saltwater-versus-chlorine-pools Let us know if you have more questions.

Deburring is definitely good advice esp. when using a hacksaw.

Draining a plaster pool can cause damage? I think..?

Curious how it’s holding up 2 years later. Interesting concept but $1000 for an off the shelf co2 regulator, some tubing and fittings, and a box that is basically a pressure switch seems a tad overpriced.

Give us a call if you'd like to speak with someone about it in detail. Its actually a little more sophisticated than that, and uses a patented process to enable CO2 infusion at a level that minimizes the need to refill the CO2 tanks. There's a reason it has a money-back guarantee and gets good reviews. Having consistent chlorination with an electronic chlorine generator and having the pH consistently on target is one of the best things you can do for the pool! If we can help you can reach us at 866-766-5243

The salt goes directly into the pool. Once its been added, it brings the water to a very low salinity - on the scale of things the water is much closer to still being freshwater and not at all like ocean "salt water" - safe for standard pool surfaces and equipment.

"saltwater" just means using a salt chlorine generator. If you didn't want to generate free chlorine everyday when your pump runs, you could turn it off and go buy chlorine and manually add it to the pool constantly.

This guide is a good starting place: ua-cam.com/video/cqhLjOHBKjY/v-deo.html

ok yeah cuz i am about to put it today and i was confused on chlorine or saltwater. and also if i put it as saltwater can i switch it to chlorine and how

Just updated your previous question with the answer. A salt pool is a chlorine pool, you are just using a chlorine generator.

Virgil, if you have hoses that clamp, then you would need to use plumbing adapters that allow you to glue on one side and clamp on the other side. We're happy to help go over details or alternatives for your pool set up at 866-766-5243

George, on this model the cell cable is built-in to the Control Module and isn't removable. There does happen to be cable extensions for this particular model if needed.

Joseph, its a common question. The salt gets added directly into the pool during installation. After a day or so it will all dissolve and will basically be like it was never there. The salt isn't used up by the system and its continually recycled, so the salt is really the easiest part of the whole thing.

Salt chlorinators are safe for concrete, plaster, tile, gunite, vinyl, fiberglass, etc... Salt chlorinators have been used in pools for over 30 years and as of 2016 70% of new pools used salt chlorinators! There is no easier or more cost effective way to maintain your pool.

Dana, that's actually a common misconception about having to still "shock" the pool - you do not need to still do that. In typical pools, you have to superchlorinate the pool to breakdown incompletely oxidized particles that build up due to insufficient chlorination; using a salt chlorinator, this should not be occurring since 1) you are getting consistent & sufficient chlorination daily to help prevent this from happening, and 2) the water going through the cell is constantly getting superchlorinated which would breakdown any incompletely oxidized particles that might be present. Regarding pH, per salt chlorinator manufacturers, the chlorine produced by salt chlorinator is close to neutral pH, but every pool's materials and environment is different so many people can experience very different pH trends. It's also probably worth pointing out that the expense to lower pH in a typical pool is not comparable to the much greater expense of buying chlorine. Let us know what other questions you might have, or feel free to give our experts a call at 866-766-5243

I've had a salt system for over six years. I've never had algae. I've never shocked my pool.