Відео

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! The carburetor is still going strong and the fuel economy is very good. Since I uploaded this film, I have upgraded the camshaft and the exhaust system and I also have an upgraded cylinder top waiting to be installed when time is available. I hope to be able to upload more content about this, we will see. Good luck with the conversion!

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I am sorry for late answer and the reason is that I recently had to abandon the so good HTML version of Gmail so I did not discover new comments. Actually, to be honest, I have not tested 4500 RPM and above. I may have tested only like 3500 RPM since I installed a K-cam last year and I have not pushed the car to much since then, however, I have made some slight adjustments in the tuning. I also have installed a 2-inch exhaust system which really makes difference and it suits the tuning suggested in this film a lot better. Everything works much better together. This can maybe be a topic for a new film but I have not had the time for this during the last couple of years. I want the car to behave well in the RPM-register that I normally use in daily driving. In your case, maybe you need to consider what cam shaft you have? Or the exhaust system, or the cylinder head. It is not only the carburetor that determines the behavior but also the other systems as they must all cooperate to receive the goal. Concerning the Zenith carburetor, take a look at the test drive in the overdrive conversion film in which I still had the Zenith VN36 carburetor (with the B20 engine). Here, I managed to pull the car to considerably higher speeds than what is showed in the film but I did not dare to enclose this part in the film. At this point, the gas pedal was only like half way down and nothing happened when I pulled it to the floor. When I later removed the cylinder head I found that it was not correctly torqued so it was actually leaking. This is also a topic for a new film. I would like to use this opportunity to send a message to all of my viewers and subscribers: I really don't know how everything works in UA-cam but for those of you reading this, I would like to say that I am sorry for not posting any video during the last years. However, from now I will have plenty of spare time so I hope to be able to post new videos in the coming future. So please don't give up, there will be more content in this channel, I promise.

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I wish you good luck with the tuning! I bought the keychain at a ZZ Top concert many years ago, remembering the video 'Gimme all your loving' ...

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Yes I could, but at the time I did the conversion I did not know they existed ...

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! It is a good question but I can guarantee that you only have to replace the outer nylon speedometer gear from 18 to 16 teeth (blue to yellow). Do not worry, the 16 teeth yellow one will fit perfectly, the two gears will match and it is very easy to replace. The instrument will then show the correct reading.

You are welcome, thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Air leaks can cause strange problems. My only advice is to thoroughly check your carburetor, ignition parts, ignition timing, gaskets for manifold and carburetor etc. Replace bad parts.

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I have replaced the camshaft this winter and inspected the engine. It is in a very good condition, almost new (it comes from a military vehicle). I plan to make a new film about this modification.

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I used to have an overhauled Zenith before and it worked but I think it was too small for this engine. I remember some fuel leakage on the intake but not as severe as in your case. I suggest that you check the needle valve and replace it if it's not working. Remove the float cover and the fuel line and blow air with your mouth through the fuel inlet while the valve is open, then close the valve and the flow of air should stop completely, if not, replace the needle valve. The needle valve gets worn and must be replaced on a regular basis, every 20000 km is recommended for the Weber.

Thank you for the suggestion! Turns out the carburetor is completely fine. The culprit was the new fuel pump I had. Installed an original, old used fuel pump, and the leak is gone. The new pump produced 6-7 psi of pressure, while the used pump has around 3 psi. I suspect the pressure was just high enough to overpower the needle valve and overfill the float chamber, causing the leak. Before installing the rebuilt carburetor, I checked the needle valve multiple times just like you described. Found no trouble with it opening and closing. This was less than a month ago. Disconnecting the fuel line after turning off the engine to release any pressure, or gravity feeding the fuel (bypassing the pump), resulted in no leaks while troubleshooting. This should confirm fuel pressure was the problem.

@@togst Good work!

I don't understand exactly what you mean. The choke shall be wide open when the engine is warm and not used at all. If you only drive the car at 20+ degrees I think you can skip to use the choke when you start the engine. However, apart from creating a richer mixture it also raises the idle speed to help the engine to idle when it is cold. I am not sure I can give you any advice other than checking the linkage and the wire used to engage the choke.

@@cartube7505 the problem is when I have driven and turn off the engine and wait for 15 min it’s almost impossible to start. I have to give full gas and turn starter for one minute to start. How do I skip the choke. How do I disconnect it? It’s a electric choke

@@paulgun I am sorry, but I have no experience regarding the electric choke. But could it be that the carburetor gets too warm causing a steam lock or something? I used to have minor problems to start with warm engine with my previous Zenith VN36, however far less than you describe.

You are welcome! Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I wish you good luck with the tuning!

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! But I am sorry, I really have no idea ...

Perhaps some of the cars can idle but I believe that the tuners primarily are focused on maximizing the performance at high rpms ...

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Last year I installed a 2 inch exhaust system in my car. After that, the Lambda Sond suggested some slight re-tuning. I have read two books and learned some new things about the Weber 32/36 and I sure would like to make an update to this film but my time is limited for the moment. With a good engine and a proper tuning the car shall run perfect. One of many good things I like with the 32/36 DGV is the fuel consumption. Yesterday I drove some 500 km (with overdrive) mostly at speeds around 100-120 km/h and the fuel consumption was less than 6.8 litres per 100 km.

pretty sure they're not prayer flags tbh......... :0

Thank you for watching and commenting my video! If the engine dies when the second stage comes into action but it seem to work with the choke engaged, then I believe that the mixture is far too lean. This problem may be cured by increasing the secondary main jet and/or decreasing the secondary air corrector. This is of course under the assumption that the carburettor is in good condition and in general suitable for your engine and that all other things like ignition, compression, vacuum leaks and so on have been checked.

@@cartube7505 Thanks for the reply! Yes, i believe that´s the problem too. I have changed the jets many times now and it´s getting better but it´s not fixed yet. The carb is new.

Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment!

It is certainly nice to have the overdrive! I don't know if or how well a tunnel from a 122 fits (in case you manage to find one). In my opinion, the best way is to build a customized tunnel for this purpose.

@@cartube7505 I know a man in Pennsylvania that has barns full of Volvos and parts. He said he could probably cut out a portion of a tunnel for me.

@@williamclark1633 That sounds good! It would be interesting to know the result so please share your experience. Good luck with the rebuild of the tunnel!

One more question, does the modification of your tunnel get in the way of your feet?

@@williamclark1633 No, not at all. But I am not very tall, only 170 cm. I did not even think about this when I did the modification. When I drive the car I am not bothered about the tunnel being wider. When you look into the car, you won't notice that the tunnel is modified (provided that the tunnel mat is fitted). However, the original tunnel mat did not fit very good, I had to modify it slightly. Why don't you try sitting in your car and check how much clearance to the tunnel you have? It is only a question of a couple of centimeters on each side.

Thank you for watching and good luck with the Weber conversion!

You are right, that would be the best solution, however when I did the conversion I did not know that these 90 degrees transmission pieces were available. Maybe hard to find? Anyway, thank you for watching!