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This is incredibly helpful, love it!

I hate to ruin the nice party that's been going on here, but this method is not accurate enough for what you're trying to do, honestly. The problem does not lie in the method itself, but rather the fact that that the "displacement limit" is reached when the end of the protruding caliper touches the scale. The problem with this is that even when it touches, you can still apply more force, pushing the scales harder without compressing the spring. Thus, this method would only work precisely enough if one could perfectly stop to apply force as soon as the caliper end touches the scale. The reality is, though, that no one has such a precise hand-eye coordination and for such small springs that have low spring rates the variation in a few tens of grams can considerably change the result. One could find a way to adapt this method so that the end of the caliper touches on some hard surface that doesn't bear on the scales, whilst the spring does - this would provide precise results as the scale would always "see" only the load applied to the spring, not the caliper (which is what it sees in this case).

Not quite understanding your demonstration in your video. I know you tightened the caliper so it sticks out 10cm at the end tip, and then you press it down on the spring until the caliper end tip touches the base of the scale? What happens if the spring is much longer, then to reach base of the scale...then wouldn't you press down more than 10cm? which will then make the spring rate measure invalid as it moved more than 10cm. I've done similar using a scale and then pressing on the so it moves down 10cm, and then take the scale reading. Thanks

Brilliant video thank you

Brilliant video thankyou

Quick question here, don't you need to check left to right balance first before this technique will work?

I have watched a lot of these videos and I got to say this was so practical. Thank you. My search is over

that is a HUGE track.

Thank you for posting this video. It is very helpful to me.

For 1/8 scale spring...how much i need to minus?..

Thank you.. This was what i was looking for.

Kindly to check the spring preload. Do I have to remove the torsion bar or sway bars? Something else I normally put a screw driver in the middle of the rear and lift to see that both wheels touch the surface together and adjust the drop screws according to adjust the rear. Same procedure to the front. When I tried it on a flat levelled surface with two bars underneath the chassis like you did, I found a big difference on one side, and I am confused which system I should use to adjust them! My rig is an Arrma Limitless, and it weighs about 6kg with batteries. It's a bit heavy that is why I use a large screw driver to lift up!

currently running vta and this changed my whole perspective on setup tysm

What name brand is your Alignment tool please

Where do you get your tools?

Well, all that is fine but it really depends on the tires you run and the grip of the track you race on. If the grip is lower, less camber gain is better because you won't be able to use the static + dynamic camber change, the outside of the tire will never be loaded. If the track is high grip then yes, more camber gain is better because otherwise the internal part of the tire might lift and loose grip during cornering.

Just used this to determine all mine, really useful thanks, one idea is if you 0 the calipers when measuring you then just need -10mm if you're lazy

Need One of “understanding down stops and weight transfer”. 😊

Wow!!

Hey Buddy, aren’t you raising the the roll center quite a bit by changing the camber link angle? Stiffen the back end = Less camber change anyway?

Very nice video! Help me a lot. What is this setup station and I race 1/10 touring and 1/8 gt has a good setup station that cover these two class?

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The sound of the videos is not good

Wow! This is totally why my car has been all over the place in turns. Just started doing on road racing and noticed. Kind figured it was my camber! Thanks.

Good video always paint colour comes off so excellent idea 👍

Awesome my car always wants to pull left on power down the straight I've tracked it on the transmitter but what else can it be always exiting nearly full throttle can you name some issues pls

ƤＲＯ𝓂Ｏ𝕤ᗰ 🤪

This just tells me that RC companies (even the serious racing brands) have no idea how to design proper suspension geometry 🤣😅

Where do you buy that camber tool at

Hi Tony, Thanks for posting your videos, I find your tips and manner very up front and easy to watch. I have started racing 21.5 with a car I brought from a modified class guy, I feel my springs are too stiff for 21.5 power, and i have lots of spares I might change out to. What spring rate is well suited to 21.5?

Thanks, Tony, It's simple and precise! easily executed! super

excellent video and thanks for sharing this knowledge.

What if you measure the front and not the other front wheel comes up but the rear wheel

This method seems to be far more accurate and repeatable than the 'normal' method. Thanks Tony. Can you do a segment of front/rear roll centers and what changes you expect from them? Even covering the inner vs. outer arm changes?

maybe you can answer this, why is everyone using a spool in the front for these beltjobbies? wouldnt that impair steering and cornering? and i used your tricks setting up my car earlier, nice tips loading the car up in a twisty way. made all the difference when pushing the corners today.

these rc setup tip videos are great.. want to see more indepth about specific setting explained like droop, toe in toe out in front and rear what are the effect what to expect... hoping to see more vids more power

I haven't raced for a while but thinking of getting back. But when you adjust the diagonal tweak, from I recall, you adjust shock collar, not preload screw. And you had set droop already with preload screw. I don't know maybe I'm confused because I'm not familiar with Awesomatix at all. But I do remember, Awesomatix's shocks are laid down around lower suspension. Is that why?

Great video. Can same method be used with much smaller springs ( 1/12 for example ) but just using smaller increments?

Awesome vid bro keep them coming

Hi, what company are these camber gauges from?

what chassis is this

Thank you.

Hi thanks for great clear and helpful video. I did remember reading somewhere also about checking 1st with anti r b disconnected. Is this necessary? Kind regards Jon

Very useful. Thanks you.

Would this work on the infraction thanks for this even if it doesn’t work on that rig this is always good stuff to know 😎

I would like to have youre input on my rc no prep drag car as far setup. we do 132 foot drag racing. Im going to be getting a set up station real soon. Your input would be appreciated Thanks Sam

Great tip! Thank You.

Great tips. I was checking my camber gain this past weekend but never mimicking a load. Will do this when I get home for sure.

Nice tip👌

Nice tip. Too few views!