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Vintage British Motorcycle Repair
United States
Приєднався 10 кві 2009
Vintage British Motorcycle Repairs. Triumphs, BSAs, Nortons.
09-26-24 - 75 Norton - Day 09
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
Переглядів: 510
Відео
09-25-24 - 75 Norton - Day 08
Переглядів 8792 години тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-24-24 - 75 Norton - Day 07
Переглядів 5344 години тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-24-24 - Kevins Shop - BSA - Day 03
Переглядів 4877 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-23-24 - 75 Norton - Day 06
Переглядів 6107 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-22-24 - 75 Norton - Day 05
Переглядів 39912 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-21-24 - 75 Norton - Day 04
Переглядів 77812 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-20-24 - Kevin's Shop - BSA - Day 02
Переглядів 43614 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-20-24 - Kevins Shop - BSA - Day 01 & 02
Переглядів 84016 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-19-24 - 75 Norton - Day 04
Переглядів 51516 годин тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-18-24 - 75 Norton - Day 03
Переглядів 60221 годину тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-17-24 - 75 Norton - Day 02
Переглядів 96321 годину тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-16-24 - 1975 Norton - Day 01
Переглядів 713День тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-14-24 - Kevin's Shop - 78 Triumph Rattle Fun
Переглядів 1,1 тис.День тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-11-20 - 71 Norton - Green FB - Cold Start after sitting for a month
Переглядів 1,3 тис.14 днів тому
Miscellaneous repair efforts on vintage British Motorcycles.
09-06-24 - RV Trip to NC Day 23 - Ft Stockton
Переглядів 10514 днів тому
09-06-24 - RV Trip to NC Day 23 - Ft Stockton
09-05-24 - RV Trip to NC Day 21 - Buda TX
Переглядів 14721 день тому
09-05-24 - RV Trip to NC Day 21 - Buda TX
If it was not for air conditioning and subsidized water people would not be living in Arizona enlarged numbers.
Some great advice & tips in this one.
This tuning by aural and touch is my method too. If you have pianist hands you can 'touch tune' both idle screws with your middle finger and thumb but is best achieved with the bike on the floor.
thanks frank
You’re a very good instructor. Thank you for sharing your tips, tricks and experience.
Hi Frank ,did you replace the needle jets as these are a wearing part which is often overlooked.I also now use adjustable Amal " stay up floats" instead of fiddling with and potentially damaging the needle & seat assembly.Cheers,Russ.
Hi. I didn't replace the needles as this is a low mileage bike and they didn't show any appreciable wear. I/we will pay close attention to mid-range performance when we test ride it. The floats are the new style, but I still like to adjust the seats so the floats remain original and interchangeable for the next guy. The new floats are great aren't they! I've had several bikes come thru here with the old floats that had split and sunk. Ride on! Ride Safe! F.
Frank, it's so great to watch you work, you are a true artisan. Your customers are lucky indeed. Thanks for making the videos.
Better safe than sorry…change the tires…
I would rather have the front caliper behind the fork slider- steering inertia.
Yeah. I think they put it on the left so the braking effect on the bike would be equal, left to right. And I'm sure that in 1975 they were struggling in the market and the money to design and make a new left side slider just wasn't available. Anyway, that's what I've heard.
A busy day with some good progress made.
I would change the tyres. Recently done this on of my machines. They were around the same age with little wear. However, on riding they have definitely developed some non stick qualities! It was annoying changing decent looking tyres but just not worth the risk to my safety.
I have almost wrecked an irreplaceable all original paint 1974 BMW R90S due to "brand new" old tires that were just like what you have there because they were hard. They harden with age and it isn't worth wrecking a vintage bike over the price of some new tires. I know I won't make that mistake again.
I like the mods you made on your plastic oil pan. I have that same one and every time I pour oil from it I make a mess. I was wondering if one of those endoscope cameras might help look around for the c-clip, but I guess you figured there wasn't enough room. I bought one of those cameras on Amazon last year and I've been surprised at how much I use it. So good for looking around inside a gas tank or oil tank, or any tight space.
Apart from the sump filter that you have removed and cleaned, there is also a magnetic sump plug in the bottom of the crankcase. If the circlip from the sump filter actually came off and ended up in the engine, bits of it may have made their way to the magnetic sump plug. Might be worth pulling the magnetic sump plug and having a look. You should be able to save the new oil and just put it back after.
Oooooo, good idea! Thanks.
Absolutely correct, but I could never get mine undone & was scared of stripping the thread. If you feel a brand new tyre alongside those 11 year old ones, they will be softer & certainly safer to ride on; tubes too of course. Brake flexi hoses ?
I think there's something on the Service notes about soldering that spring clip on the sump plug for peace of mind. I pour the oil back in, take the plugs out, 4th gear and loosen rocker feed then enjoy am upper body workout turning the back wheel until the oil oozes out from that top end feed then tighten and do another 5 minutes exercise!
Id fully recommend to the owner that the tires be changed especially if the intent is to ride the machine............safety 1st especially on a classic motorcycle
Even if the bike has been stored *inside* and out of the sun - 11yo tires are "No Bueno" !
Hi Guys,I noticed at 2.59 that the rear brake shoe lever has no spring tension when disconnected from the linkage.This is not correct and may result in a dragging or slow release of that brake shoe.I think that you are referring to the conical hub front brake which was inferior to the 69/70 unit as there was a reduction in the swept area of the shoes ( some 15% I believe ), levers that were too short and individual / difficult to access internal snail cam adjusters.Cheers, Russ.😀
Thanks. I will check out the spring tension.
Hi, regarding spark plugs I’ve had great success using NGK BKR7 EIX Iridium IX plugs in my 1972 750 Commando Combat kick start only. I’m also using Iridium plugs in my BSA A65 lightning and Matchless G12, they all start easily and run very well.
It certainly seems to spin over nicely.
Spitfire is definitely more desirable than a Thunderbolt. Weird thing to do.
Front brake on 68-70 models was the best, they called the later brakes the "Comical" hub brakes for a reason, though I hear if you set them up right and use longer arms they work ok.
Front wheel/brake is from 1969/70 model BSA or Triumph.
The TLS front Brake came out on Triumph in 1968.
@@RobsRidesPA Correct, but not with the bell crank update.
That bike looks great already, good job chaps. My starter always worked, but I generally used it to assist a kick anyway, to reduce load on both me & the motor. They had a terrible reputation, but I must have been lucky. Keep up the good work.
Colorado Norton works make the starter for brush just like the Sportster starter that they copied and then keep it out to toothbrush that didn't work
Hi guys, you really are early birds’ I’m 78 I wish I had the energy of you both. Thanks for all the videos. I have a 1960 BSA Golden Flash that I bought in several baskets, it is taking me ages to rebuild. Watching you two does give me hope that I will finish it. Regards Ed.
I FOUND ON SOME BIKES WHEN YOU SWITCH TO LED TURN SINGLE , IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE INDICATOR LIGHT ON THE DASE (SOME BIKES HAVE TWO ) FOR L/H & R/H TURN THEY CAN FEED BACK THROUGH EACH OTHER. AS A FAULT FIND JUST DISCONNECT THE DASH INDICATOR LIGHT TRY THE TURN SINGLES. CHEERS
You are exactly correct. I tried a "LED Compatible" flasher and it didn't work. I disconnected the dash indicator light and at least got the right and left units lighting but not flashing. I have ordered a LED Flasher from the same source as the LED bulbs. I expect it will make the sides flash correctly. If it won't work with the dash indicator wired in I have found some nice LED indicator lamps and I will install two new lamps, one for each side. Stay tuned! The fun just never stops!
You made light work of that lot, well done.
Do you typically use the Lucas color coded wires (like brown with green stripe or white with yellow, etc) when making your wiring harness or do you use standard off the shelf and easily available wire colors?
I use standard colors. I try to use: Red = + Ground. Black = Battery -12v Yellow = Alternator. White = Ignition On Blue = Lights. Brown = Brakes Green = Instrument Lights Orange = Turn Signals & Other Uses Gray = Ammeter. Purple = Kill Switch, Horn & Other Uses. I use Lucas Bullets & Connectors. I draw up a wiring diagram for each bike and give it to the client and I put a second copy inside the headlight for future mechanics to find. I can send copies of diagrams to anyone who emails me at info@AZBritBikes.com.
Looking great so far, well done.
Making good steady progress, some neat jobs completed.
I did my handlebar switch clusters years ago & you made it look easy, well done. You both achieved a great deal in a short time, not least as everything is so well organised. This is a reference work, thanks from UK.
Let there be light
Excellent video, Frank, or is it Dr. Norton now?
Actually, the founder became known as "Grandpa Norton".
Electrics and bar switches- double trouble.
I like your channel it is interesting and doesn't delve into a lot of the swearing and hype of a lot of other videos.
I'm working on a 1952 A.J.S. at the moment and have encountered more botchery than on any bike I've owned before - it's tragic to see, especially as some of it involved the front brake and the clutch . . . This thing was dangerous, shiny and pretty, but dangerous - weeks of rectifying have corrected things and a test run will now hopefully go well . . .
Redneck spanners sold worldwide...
Surely it would be easier to buy the correct size spanner or socket, than belting the hell out of the nut with a chisel? Don’t understand some people why they have to butcher their machines.
Love the Thunderfire or is it a Spitbolt ?
Haha yes, d epends if it catches alight or vibrates itself to bits.
G'day Boy's, butchery of Classic bikes happen in Australia as well plenty of back your expertise, l bought a fully so-called restoration done on a BSA super rocket and a blind person could have made a better job, love watching your video, glad you had a great holiday, cheers, Neil.
New gators?
Yup. And brakes, and bearings.
How does one contact you. I’m in Phoenix.
Google Arizona British Bikes. Then call me.
Email me at info@AZBritBikes.com.
A spitfire had a splayed head That bike has a thunderbolt head
At some point there was an attempt to make the bike into a Thunderbolt - the tank is not Spitfire; the side panels are all labeled Thunderbolt; the front brake has been changed out and this bike has a single Concentric carburetor rather than the dual GP carbs found on the Spitfire. But the motor and frame numbers (and the title) clearly indicate Spitfire. It would be interesting to know why someone made the changeover.
@@KevinBrown-rl4lyyes but in your video you state it's a spitfire head with a single manifold fitted? It's not It's clearly a thunderbolt head
@@nickmarshall9192 Thanks! Somebody sure went to a lot of work to make this Spitfire a Thunderbolt!
Had a commando back in the day. Cold start was full choke, tickle until finger wet then kick. I could never do a 3 kick start without tickling.
Coming along nicely.
When I was going to wire my 69' TIger I spent the extra $150 to get an OEM NOS harness. Glad I did, it was more or less plug and play. I wonder if the harnesses from British Wiring are any better than the Lucas ones.
Hey Frank - I'm really enjoying watching you and Kevin bringing these old British bikes back to life - especially the modern "reliability mods" such as eliminating the old electrical connectors, the modern Rectifier / Regulator and the LED replacement lightbulbs ! Makes perfect sense, IMO, rather than being a stickler for "Period-Correct" accuracy..
Given the Commando is positive ground, could I ask where you source your LED bulbs? A further question, how do you support/hold the bullets when soldering. Great episodes by the way. I look forward to each and every one. Thanks ever so much for sharing your expertise!
You can buy non polarity sensitive bulbs now But it's easy enough to convert to negative earth
Beware of soldered connections they can become brittle and break I have read that all connections on a jumbo jet wiring loom are crimped for that reason
I get the bulbs from Classic British Spares, but they are available elsewhere. Here's a link to just one of the bulbs they offer. www.classicbritishspares.com/collections/genuine-lucas/products/lucas-warning-light-led-bulbs?_pos=5&_sid=5e52a305b&_ss=r I hold the bullets in place by bending the wires so they hang facing "up" and make sure the copper strands are shiny clean. Then, minimum solder, minimum heat, and make sure the resulting joint is shiny. If a bullet won't stay on I sometimes bend one strand of wire "up" so it holds the bullet on.
Yeah, both soldering and crimping have had failure problems. I have the "Official" (expensive) bullet crimper and yet have had bullets come off. But then I have had perfectly good looking solder joints fail. I think there are two hints to a good solder joint, 1. Make sure the wire and bullet are clean and shiny. 2. Minimum heat and minimum solder so the insulation doesn't melt. 3. Don't let the joint move util the solder has cooled and set. 4. Make sure the resulting solder joint is shiny. If it's not shiny it is a "cold solder joint" and it make not hold. The third of the two hints is the most important.
@@fjdelmonte Many thanks and much appreciated!
It may be worth checking the suitability of the Boyer ignition box's there can be an issue with older units switching to full advance when the voltage drops causing kickback that can damage the electric starter, making them unsuitable for electric start models, I don't use Boyer any more having experienced lots of problems with them kicking back even without an electric start being fitted, I personally like the Vape units which you use.
Wow! I will look into it. Thanks.
Those dials on the red Norton are French Veglia dials, Norton switched between Smiths and Veglia, whatever they had in stock at the time. Some Veglia have the NVT squiggle some don't 🤷♂🤷♂. The blue, white Norton appears to have the front brake on the wrong side, MK3'S should be on the left.
Oh my goodness! I didn't even notice the front brake is on the wrong side. Even with the red 75 sitting next to it! We will swap the forks. Thank you!
Hello Frank, have you noticed the front brake is on the wrong side. All the best Keith in the UK 🇬🇧
You're right, well spotted.
Oh my goodness! I didn't even notice the front brake is on the wrong side. Even with the red 75 sitting next to it! We will swap the forks. Thank you!