Відео

There was absolutely NO point... yet this idiotic video with 1 minute of bubbles has 61k views.

THE POINT IS THAT NO ONE REALLY KNOWS A GOTT DAM THING ANYMORE THAN I DOO

Thanks! Had to replace it like 3 years after this video. New engine has ~5 years on it and doesn't look anywhere near as good.

That "cheap" part cost more then a shorter belt lol

You’re right. Don’t use green coolant. G05 or whatever it’s called ONLY. This block is aluminum and I’d be surprised if the truck in this video is still running.

Also noticed upper rad hose had tons of air pressure.

low vis, same thing happened to me. did you figure out what the problem was?

@@parkerprecision6675 so i flushed heater core with water hose and got some stop leak gunk outta there which greatly improved my heater but still had overheating. noticed my coolant smelled like gasoline as well so i tore apart the whole engine and found out i blew my headgasket lol

@@parkerprecision6675 what issue are you experiencing?

@@lowvis7413 i blew a radiator hose a few months ago. replaced it and the tstat. went to use my heater today and it only blows hot air for a couple of seconds then gets cold. also it stays on vents. will not change to defrost.

Did you do it when its cold

Did you ever higher this out I’m having the same problem

Try a $25 thermostat first. 30 minute job with the refill. That's alot better than paying a shop $150 to "diagnose" and tell you your thermostat is likely bad.

@@IxSkiddlesxIdid you get the problem figured out?

Very lame, yet it's got 44k views and you even took the time to comment on it. Thanks for dropping by!

Hey, I think it should. If it looks like this you'll be fine. I have an 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. This video was a lifesaver, but I'm sad he never responded with the belt length. It's very important to remove the pulley from the compressor or else the belt rubs against the bottom. That was a nightmare for me, but it was burnt to crisp so it took lots of wd40 and whacking to get it off (and the snap ring sucks too). The belt I used was from O'Reilly, MasterPro K060832. It is the 83 3/4" length (took me 6 belts to figure it out). It can be done! mine looks just like the video and runs fine (at least so far). Hope this helps!

Sorry, I have a bad habit of tossing stupid videos up and never paying attention to the comments. IIRC, stock belt is 87.6", the bypass is 4 inches shorter at 83.6"

@@troy.s what was the dayco belt part number? Or whatever belt it is?

No... broke 4.7 w/249k to used reman 4.7 w/12k miles on it.

Pretty sure it's 8mm from the factory. IIRC, I had to hammer mine to get it to fit.

@@troy.s thanks, i dont know what was up with it, but yes it is 8mm, so I took the 8mm hex, took my grinder and shaved off a mm on a few sides and then it fit in . but it was too tight(probably factory seal still-past owner did barely any maintenence) so i smacked it around to bore it to one size larger so I could fit my 5/16 socket in and then used a breaker bar on the ratchet to get it to spin. I cant believe the effort I had to put to pull that screw, but finally finished the flush haha!

Ctrl while moving

@@troy.s, Ctrl while moving and type x11 and Enter

I've now lost 2 of them and going to salvage yard to get 3rd.

After copying with move tool (M > Ctrl), direct type in "xN" which N is the number of copy including the one you just copied. Example: Click on object, press M, move in the direction, press Ctrl to make copy move, input the distance you want, press Enter, input x3, and then Enter to get 3 copies

Try some high temp thread sealant. if that doesn't work, you'll need to pull the timing cover to either replace it or get the bleeder machined for a new plug.

May have to re-thread the cover. Shouldn't be a biggie. After the thread is clean, then try some sealant.

I believe that as it bleeds you should be adding coolant to keep the radiator full, thus the cap would remain off.

When selecting, if you don't draw your marquee completely around an object, it will not be selected. Happy to help!

Ah Ha, what I noticed is you have a solid line when selecting so I watched again and you select from left to right to get the solid selection box. I've been selecting from right to left and get a dashed selection box. Anything that falls inside the dashed box is selected. Thank you for your help.

Technically, perhaps... I don't know for sure. I've gotten mine quite hot on a few offroad trips, but compensate by cranking up the heat. If you're overheating, make sure your fan is operating correctly (mine is the hydro version, making regular fluid changes pretty much mandatory). If you have no other choice (long slow climbs), roll down the windows and crank up the heat. Uncomfortable for sure, but it makes a huge difference.

***** You can change fluid in the thermoclutch? Yep, no electric here either, besides a/c condenser.

ERICtheLATE 7

The bleed port is the highest point in the cooling system. Unfortunately, there are plenty of other places where air gets trapped, so it might take a while (weeks? months?) to get it all out. I think Chrysler pulls a vacuum when doing the initial fill (hence the spring in the lower radiator hose to keep it from collapsing).

Troy Settle I am having an overheating issue after installing a new t-stat and I believe I bled all of the air out but I am starting to wonder if maybe I do have pockets of air although I do have heat and hear no sloshing around in the dash via the heater core... Any suggestions???

it's 8mm. just get the set, it's cheaper in the long run.

Price 8 mm

doesn't matter, coolant always flows through the heater core.

You don't really need one , but if you want you can make one yourself ,out of a orange juice plastic container

Just a few minutes once you're up to temp. The bubbles actually won't stop, as the coolant is boiling in the engine block, releasing gasses. But once the big air pockets are taken care of, just seal it up and let it run. Additional air will purge through the reservoir.