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Hey Sunny.... :^)

We missed out this year…. I hope we make it to Model A Days next year…

Glad you enjoyed it

Yeah I prefer the straw, especially with blue paint…. Or just black wheels..

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you for your comment and for watching…👍😁

It could be many things, from water in gas, to ignition problems or fuel problems… You will have to start somewhere and eliminate possible problems…

@@Teds_Garage I have it on LPG and it does the same thing on gasoline and LPG

With no codes it will be hard to diagnose.. It could be many things, from water in gas, to ignition problems or fuel problems… You will have to start somewhere and eliminate possible problems…

It could be many things, from water in gas, to ignition problems or fuel problems… You will have to start somewhere and eliminate possible problems…

Hey Sunny…. Thanks… We had a great time with my mom and dad and glad they were able to make it there..

Hey Rick… hope you’re doing well. Yes, I wish we could have attended Model A Days… just didn’t have time… OCF is great… we went last year and I really wanted to bring my parents to see it.. We had a great time with my mom and dad and glad they were able to make it to OCF.. especially the Saturday cruise night…. Maybe we can bring a car next time… it’s nearly 1k miles and 2 full days of driving. While “in the neighborhood” we were able to see the Gilmore… really needed a few days to really enjoy all of it. Maybe we can get to Model A Days next year…

Thanks for watching! Maybe see you at a Brasstown A's gathering... :^)

We all were tired by the time we got back.. about 1k miles up and 1k miles back... :^)

@kensmithgallery4432 , Yeah, good to get a few minutes to talk.. I wish we had more time. I was taking my mom & dad to see the OCF/Greenfield Village, a day/Sunday at the Ford Museum and then we went west to the Gilmore for a day/Monday over there... my mom and wife were about tired of looking at cars.. but was a good sport about it... Did you catch the clip your car at the very end of my video? Looks good! esp. with the street lights glowing.. nice! If you have Dropbox I can send you the raw footage.. I lost your contact info from last year... I looked on your website...www.kensmithgallery.com/ What's a good contact for you? email/txt? Send me a msg - 478 352 - 1162 I see your ctc city address - on your website...A few years ago I bought my '31 Sport Coupe/jalopy near you... other side of Johnson City in Elizabethton.. up in the hills... I think it was even called something "hollar". It was about 3+ hrs drive from my dad's place in N.GA.... which is about 3+ hrs from my house in mid-GA. Maybe we can meet in Asheville sometime when we both have more time... :^) Take care, Ted

@kensmithgallery4432 Hey man... are you doing okay with all the rain from Hurricane Helene? Been thinking about you and pray you and your family is safe. Take care buddy...

@@Teds_Garage We are safe! Thanks for asking. As close as 3 miles from us, people lost everything. Total devastation all around us.

You have to get the timing belt off the crankshaft (which is difficult) and keep the crankshaft and camshaft in place with the timing markers.

@@Teds_Garage Yes for sure it is much easier get out the timing belt of and remove the camshaft sensor

Yes! Thank you!

Thanks Sunny.... slowly making progress.

I'll try to remember and look for you Tom, and your unrestored 30 Tudor... I met Dave & Cindy from Ohio last year with a 1928 Tudor orig/unrestored...cool to see the orig/unrestored... hope to see him again.. See ya there..

@tomthompson5422 Hey, I watched your video... (and Like and Subscribed... of course.. 😊 I see you were parked right across from Ken. I think I remember it and even talked with you.. because I love the original and esp. un-restored... 👍 Your '30 sounds like you got it running really good. I should have talked to both you and Ken more.. I had my parents to take care of...esp. my mom was using wheeled walker. Ken was trying to get video interviews of other interesting cars/people, so he was hopping.. trying to build his UA-cam Channel. Maybe next year I can bring one of my (or my dad's) Model A's and I'll get to see you there.. cruise night looks like so much fun... Take care.

Thank you! I have a long way to go yet…. But it does sound nice..👍 🙂

Yes! Finally…. Now just the rest to repair and put back together…👍🙂🤔😔

If you are cranking the engine with the starter and the camshaft belt is not moving… sounds like you stripped the camshaft belt… that belt has to turn continuously when the engine is turning. It has ridges on the bottom and they could have been stripped off… sounds like you may need to replace the camshaft belt…

Most welcome

It could be…but also many other things… you need to do more troubleshooting… bad gas, water in gas, plug gas filter, etc…

In my newest videos I have the starter installed… you can see and hear the starter… and I actually have a 8 volt battery… The 6 volt batteries turn pretty slow… but remember the Ford Model T was mostly hand crank (electric starter was optional after about 1919\20..). I’ve heard 6v starters using 12v…. and even jump started Model A’s using 12v…. It’ll hit the flywheel hard and spin fast… but I don’t think I would want to keep doing that… eventually the starter will burn out or destroy the ring gear on the flywheel… Sounds like you’re running a 6v starter on 12v…. from your description and how hard the bendix is engaging… It could be your bendix is very loose/worn if the starter is not turning the engine fast. Once engaged in the ring gear how fast does the starter turn the engine? The bendix slides on a shaft… so it could just be a worn bendix… Interesting… let me know what you find…

@@Teds_Garage Thanks for the reply. Since my message I replaced the enclosed bendix drive I had (the new type with no visible spring) with a new old-style bendix. Now it sounds less harsh, but runs too fast still. I did not measure rpm, but comparing by ear a 6V car with mine, I would say mine spins 50-100% faster despite the 12V stator coils. So the problem is half fixed. A electronics savvy friend thinks just a few windings of thick wire put in series in front of the starter will dampen speed. We will try something. Also met a guy with a Snyder catalog with a big resistor for the starter in it, but Snyder does not have it today.

Glad I could help! Be sure it is 6volt or 12v… depending on what you’re using in your Model A… Also there are several different original manufacturers, mine is a Sparton brand - being a common model… but there are others..as well as aftermarket brands. I just visited my dad and his horn wasn’t working so I removed it…. It wasn’t a Sparton and the wires were soldered in…. So I had to resolder them….. and the cover was very difficult to get back on… I didn’t see any model name on his horn…. It was working fine but then stopped… and he was in a parade last year and people wanted to hear the Aoogha… but it wouldn’t ☹️ But I got it working for the parade he was in the next day…👍😁 Good luck… let me know how it goes…

@@Teds_Garage Thank you! It's an EA Laboratories Mileaway model...I got it working, cleaned, oiled, new gaskets, repainted and installed on my 49 Chevy 6 volt truck...you were a GREAT help! Appreciate it! Love this old 100? year old horn! It's LOUD and sounds GREAT!

Here’s my email TedsModelAGarage@gmail.com

Thanks..

Hey Sunny, I’m not sure what to do… it’ll probably still work but will have to remember that…

I’ll have to check and measure it…thanks Fred

Hey Russell, I've heard of the original water pump fan were two pieces of metal laminated together... and after years of stress they have been known to come apart... I haven't had that happen or seen it personally.. and really don't want to. I've seen pics of it ripping into the hood (or do you say "bonnet" in Australia??) as it flew apart. When sanding this fan I could see some of the laminating of the two metals... I need to keep an eye on it. I also have suspicions that folks pumping up the HP and high revving their engine - trying to do highway speeds... 60-70MPH aren't helping the old original metal fans, ie more stress on the metal. The aluminum fans have been on back order for a while... but I need to check on it again. Good idea!

Hi Ted If it is showing any signs of delaminating around the hub of the fan ,look at changing it for a four blade type fan which I think are available from some vendors. Yes I know the aluminium fans are on back order and have been for some time now. That distributor has been apart previously as Henry didn’t use tape on the ground wire and I believe never used a one piece shaft, the two piece shaft with a drilled upper is the way to go . Regards Russell 🦘🦘

Hey Sunny! How’s it going out west? Yeah a friend mentioned Kroil and I haven’t ever tried it… I’ve seen others use it and they really like it.. I’m just old school with the WD-40… I need to get some and try Kroil … and PB blaster..

I don’t know… diesel engines have different computers so not sure…

Yup. That works too. Although, the master disconnect is good for a stuck on starter. Years ago I had a flat head and the starter switch stuck on…. I had to quickly remove the battery cable clamp and burned my thumb and finger fairly badly prying it loose. Both ways work well…. just differently. 👍🏻

ModelARickLasCruces I did like your idea of the 20A circuit breaker, so I added your comment to the "Details" area on the video. I may point it out in a future video too...

@Carolyn-y1d I think you may be referring to "4th gear".. ie. the manual transmission gear # 4.

RTV = silicone (Room-Temperature- Vulcanizing silicone) is a type of silicone rubber that cures at room temperature. Used to seal gaps... in place or in combination of using a gasket.

@Dana-ro5gj .. After getting the ODB II code P0340 .. which P0340 is an OBD-II diagnostic trouble code (DTC) that indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a problem within your Jetta’s CPS circuit .. caused by an issue with the wiring harness going to the camshaft position sensor (CPS) or the camshaft position sensor itself.

Hey Rusty, That’s great news to get your brake light switch straightened out…👍 I know what you mean about that cap/“light bail” at end of the steering column…. It can be difficult 😣🥵 You might try lubricant on the choke and starter grommets if they are tight…a little white lithium grease or garage door grease… something to let them slide easily… I hope your battery dieing problems are solved… take care, Ted

@@lindco82 thanks… yeah I need to get rolling on it again.. and you’re right - once I hear it running I’ll be ready to get it done… get ‘er dun..

Just remembered I also use Kroil Penetrating oil, and I have a few other brands that I use and have found that help with seized jets and bolts. its more money but it works great.

Thanks.. I’ve never used Kroil…I need to try it.

But 10 shocks for $20 is a heck of a deal, if only to get parts to restore othe shocks.

@modelaricklascruces thanks… good to hear from you again…👍😁 I figured that I can put together a few from the parts.. I’m thinking to do a real rebuild video later, so these are just intro to shocks video. I need to get back to work on getting my engine running on the ‘29 Tudor…

Interesting. I always wanted to know more about these shocks. Thank you!

You don’t like the selection of music? Or you don’t like any music?

Not sure on your first question what you are asking… yes lefty loosely…

@@Teds_Garage I figured it out. So I did the sensor. Finished the job codes never came back but the car still didn’t start. After a few days my friend got a second opinion and was told her engine was seized which to me makes no sense cz it was running before it went bad

@@franka6680 engine is seized = will not turn over. So if you are getting the starter to turn the engine it is not seized. If the crankshaft is turning then it is not seized…. Now it could still have a more serious problem but not seized.

It does sound like a bad brake switch. If it’s on all the time with the battery connected…. are you sure it’s the brake light and not the parking light. If the “light bale”, ie the jumble of wires at the bottom of the steering column, if those are messed up it could be the “parking light” is on. Also make sure you have the light switch “off”….at your horn button… the light switch can be confusing. Parking light, off, low beam, and high beam….etc. As for the carb plug… you did install the gasket with the plug, right? Your carb kit should have had a washer type gasket for the plug. The carbon from the exhaust does sound like it may be rich. Also if you choke it too long. Once you turn on the gas, let the float bowl fill (just 1 minute), then a few engine turns on choke and release the choke. It should fire up. If the tail pipe is thick black carbon, turn the GAV in. Depending on the carb, engine, elevation above sea level, and temperature…. the GAV will be different. Even driving in traffic and open roads, or hills can make a difference…. So you can’t just say 1 turn out, or 1.5 turns out on the GAV and leave it. “Newer” carbs (and I mean even carbs in the 1950’s) had some engineering for different situations…. Now days the car engines have sensors and computers making fuel adjustments hundreds of times a second.. Needless to say 1 or 1.5 turns of GAV is just a starting point. Don’t be afraid to adjust the GAV and the timing lever,… As for timing, the faster you drive the more advanced the timing. Once it starts you should set to about 1/3 timing lever (3-4 notches), then a notch every 10 mph. I think it has 10 notches so it also depends on your timing setup. The engine will run even when really retarded timing… just no power. Too advanced and it will buck. Good luck. 👍

It will misfire and have less power… so yes.

Seems like we aren’t the first to have this problem…. You would think that they would fix the manufacturing problem. So hard to get good quality replacement parts…

Thanks for the nice words. These videos & editing are a lot of work and it’s really nice to hear from people who watch them. As for the brake lights: 1. First thing, when you disconnect the wire from your brake switch- the brake light goes out? Correct? Just so we aren’t chasing a crossed wires. 2. Do you have the connection rod/wire from your brake pedal adjusted? No slack but not pulling the switch…. Also, There are two different switches for Model A’s. Which switch does your car have? Older switches were made cheap and known for shorting = light on and a dead battery. If you disconnect the connection rod and the brake lights are on then it’s probably a bad switch… if you have a voltmeter you should be able to disconnect the rod and test the switch by pulling by hand… pull = 6v, release = 0v. This type of switch there isn’t really a way to connect backwards. One side to battery and other to the light bulb. Also, if you really want to “fix” the dead battery problem…. Consider connecting the battery lead to the ignition switch. Original wiring was directly tied to the battery, along with the lights and horn…. This allowed Ford to use a smaller ignition switch and no relays (lights and horn pull a lot of amps). But if you’ve installed a new LED bulb for your brake lights it will not pull much amps (and be much brighter)…. then connect the wire from your brake switch to the ignition switch/hot side of the coil (coming from the ignition switch). Good luck…👍🙂 let me know what you find…

Slowly turning the ignition to start…ie on and off to get the engine close until you can see the mark. Remove the spark plugs and the engine will turn easier…. Turn the engine at the crankshaft to get the markings aligned. It requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. I didn’t have the tool….so.. Otherwise…Carefully pulling on your alternator belt and don’t pinch your fingers… with spark plugs out it will turn… You should be removing the camshaft bolt to get to the camshaft position sensor. To hold the camshaft/engine from turning while removing the camshaft bolt: I put the car in gear (manual transmission) and it locks the engine. If you don’t have an impact tool, use a tight fitting wrench and tap the end lightly with a hammer…. Don’t get too aggressive…. they used a “lock-tight” and just a slight tapping will get it to release. If you have an automatic transmission - first try the tapping method above. If still stuck you hold the crankshaft to remove the camshaft gear bolt. This requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. If not (not recommended) you can use a wrench/wood wedged into the alternator belt to hold the engine…. But be careful not to damage the alternator pulley or belt.

Hey Rusty, It sounds like you may have sediment from your gas tank getting into the carb/jets. It could be very fine rust sediment getting past your fuel sediment bowl. Have you checked/scoped inside your gas tank for rust and sediment? Also the gas tank sealers from the past (10, 20, 30 years ago) can break down with the modern ethanol gas… the alcohol in the fuel can break down the gas tank sealer and then the sticky gas mixture can build up and clog the jets. So when cleaning the jets and passages use carb cleaner to “blast out” the residue, as well as the thin wire. It does seem like you have to clean the jets out on your carburetor… but it could also be the ignition shorting out when it starts…. ie if you advance the spark when it starts…(1) the wire from ignition switch grounds, (2) the wire from bottom plate to top plate ground’s out ….(3) or the top plate looses ground (to the distributor housing), which the points need to be able to ground when they are closed. The top plate “slides” in grooves of the distributor housing…. It must be clean and make contact, ie no paint… one test is don’t move the spark lever and let it run… see if it remains running…. It won’t hurt it to run a few seconds/minutes with spark lever retarded…. Not sure on the carb strainer… if brass one is different size than cadmium. I don’t think the tip retainer is still needed for the gas adj valve…. as Les Andrews and others have said, but for authenticity sake some people still use it. Let me know what you find out…. Take care, ted

Sorry but I don’t understand what you’re asking…?.

The screw * of the crankshaft because mine turn when I try😅

The camshaft? or the crankshaft? You should be removing the camshaft bolt to get to the camshaft position sensor. Either way I put the car in gear (manual transmission) and it locks the engine. If you don’t have an impact tool, use a tight fitting wrench and tap the end lightly with a hammer…. Don’t get too aggressive. I think they used a “lock-tight” and just a slight tapping will get it to release. If you have an automatic transmission - first try the tapping method above. If still stuck you hold the crankshaft to remove the camshaft gear bolt. This requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. If not (not recommended) you can use a wrench/wood wedged into the alternator belt to hold the engine…. But be careful not to damage the alternator pulley or belt.

Thanks 👍