Відео

How hard is it for you to walk by and see that… and not fix it right there and then? Gotta have permission & a contract, yeah?

What happens if the bloom twice?

Air layer root all suckers if not grafted

So I live in Missouri, and I have not pruned my lilac bush, which has definitely produced more branches. Should I wait until next year to prune it?

Ok so what's the fix?

Free compost

Great info 😊

What's a good variety of magnolia with scented blooms to grow in the tropics?

😂❤

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to the accompanying video.

Ugh. Unappetizing! How DO you treat the tree to prevent the worms?

So.. 20-30 years out, instead of 2-3?

I love trees. This one is beautiful! I just lost my big old tree from a couple wicked storms. One storm took out a large branch, then before I could get it pruned another storm came through and took the rest. 😢

Just curious, where are you that its an invasive species?

Dude, your beard is on point.

Ditto tree damage may I follow along?

great, jim i have a 5 year cut and is soft in middle can i spray this now, it still soft... thanks

Those are mountains with some snow. Watching those mountains could help me stay cool in the summer. All I would have to do is convince myself they were right next door.

At our local part they cut down a big beautiful tree. It gave so much shade and now it looks empty and it looks hotter. If that makes any sense. Just looks horrible.

What'd you think about root pruning using air pots?

Wow love the knife. Where'd you purchase it?

ty!

i don't think i'm eating cherries this season

That would be regimen. A if a regiment was stationed there, they'd eat the Cherries before you could get to them; larvae or no.

It's the same with hickory nuts. I collected quite a lot, to find every one of them had worms. It was such a disappointment. I believe we would be better off using less synthetic chemicals, but I've found nothing better for garden and basement insect control. Unfortunately, it's the same with the weeds. I've tried so much natural stuff, to no avail.

Holy larva! Now I don’t wanna eat cherries anymore!! Thanks😢😢

Wait... that's the SAME worm??? He really gets around!

So, what's the treatment solution?

It’s just extra protein

Regimen.

I just ate 2 hands full of cherries. Store bought. So did I just ingest some extra protein? Am I at risk?

Ive probably eaten lots of those

Excellent video! Lots of botany pages popping up and not enough talking about what can go wrong with your crop. And it is helpful for the neighbors kids in case they happen to be picking cherries and don’t wanna eat bugs.

Hey Good People! PSA: Cherries with small, white worms inside are generally safe to eat and don't taste any different than cherries without worms. The worms in cherries are usually larvae from the western cherry fruit fly. However, most people don't like eating fruit that has been infested with insects...and I happen to be one of them. So, unless that's your preferred way to get your protein, maybe figure out a spring treatment plan to keep the creepy crawlies out of your fruit!

Hey Good People! Construction impact, big or small, can threaten nearby trees. Even a seemingly innocuous change like putting in a new patio or xeriscaping can harm roots through excavation, soil compaction from heavy equipment, changing drainage, or changing water access. Road construction can be particularly damaging, severing roots and altering soil levels. These injuries can take years to show, with trees suffering from stunted growth, survival growth (excess suckers and water sprouts), withering, and eventual failure (death). Careful planning and proper techniques, like hand digging near roots and protecting the drip line (the outer edge of a trees canopy), can help minimize harm and keep your trees healthy. Obviously, the city planner is not going to take that much trouble/care to preserve what they deem to be replaceable street trees. But it’s still worth thinking about before you change up your personal landscape!

Hey Good People! It's always nice to get out into nature, and I'm lucky enough to live in a place where that is always close at hand! But as a horticulturist, and arborist, it is hard to ignore the mounting issues that we are seeing more and more frequently with our changing climate issues... Climate change is squeezing our conifer forests. Rising temperatures and drought conditions are stressing the forests into major decline. Trees need water to survive, and with dryer winters, our conifers just aren't getting enough! This weakens them, making them more susceptible to: Pests: Warmer winters allow insects and diseases that would normally die off during extended cold to survive, giving them a population boom to attack already stressed trees. Fire: Drier conditions create tinderbox forests, priming them for wildfires that are more frequent and severe. Migration struggles: With temperatures climbing, suitable habitats for conifers are moving uphill, but some species can't migrate fast enough to keep up. And mountain conditions are also becoming harsher, which means ideal conditions are harder to find. The result? Thousands of trees die, insects proliferate, and entire ecosystems get affected.

Hey Good People! Construction impact, big or small, can threaten nearby trees. Even a seemingly innocuous change like putting in a new patio or xeriscaping can harm roots through excavation, soil compaction from heavy equipment, changing drainage, or changing water access. Road construction can be particularly damaging, severing roots and altering soil levels. These injuries can take years to show, with trees suffering from stunted growth, survival growth (excess suckers and water sprouts), withering, and eventual failure (death). Careful planning and proper techniques, like hand digging near roots and protecting the drip line (the outer edge of a trees canopy), can help minimize harm and keep your trees healthy. Obviously, the city planner is not going to take that much trouble/care to preserve what they deem to be replaceable street trees. But it’s still worth thinking about before you change up your personal landscape!

Hey Good People, This is a newly planted tree on a city sidewalk, and I was pleasantly surprised that they got the planting part done pretty well on this tree. Yes, it's a little high, and there are some exposed roots, but like I always tell you...THAT'S OKAY! We want that tree to breath, and so, a few exposed roots from being planted a little high, is infinitely better than planting it too deep to where it will suffocate and rot. Also, I was so impressed with the care instruction tag on the tree, with correct watering and mulching guidelines...even a mention about NOT PILING MULCH AGAINST THE TREE! My arborist heart is full! Now, let's see if the city actually follows these guidelines??

Hey Good People! By following these basic elements, you can prune your trees effectively during the growing season to promote healthy growth and a beautiful shape. For further guidance on specific tree species and pruning techniques, consulting a qualified arborist or researching online resources is recommended. Here are some of the basics you will want to consider for proper pruning of your trees... Dead wood: Dead branches are not only unsightly but can also harbor pests and diseases. Pruning them out improves the overall health of the tree and allows light and air to penetrate the canopy. (Dead wood does not contribute to the canopy percentage) Crossing and rubbing branches: These branches can damage each other through friction, creating wounds that become entry points for disease. Removing one or both branches can prevent this damage. Redundant branches: Branches that grow inwards towards the center of the tree compete for resources with other branches and contribute to poor air circulation. Thinning them out allows for better light penetration and air flow. Narrow crotches: These are V-shaped crotches where two branches grow very close together. Narrow crotches are weak and more prone to splitting under heavy loads like snow or wind. If possible, removing one of the branches while they are young can help prevent future problems. Canopy percentage: The canopy refers to the leafy upper layer of the tree. While the exact percentage will vary depending on the species and desired outcome, generally, you don't want to remove NO MORE than 20-25% of the canopy during a single growing season. Removing too much foliage can stress the tree and hinder its growth. Additional tips: Always use sharp, clean pruning tools to make clean cuts that heal faster. Prune according to the tree species' specific needs. Some trees respond better to pruning at certain times of the year. Consider hiring a professional arborist for larger trees or if you are unsure about proper pruning techniques.

10 to 20 gallons of water.

There are apparently thornless cultivars, and it is a tough species that can tolerate the conditions a street tree has to endure. It's very good there's no "volcano mulch" for this tree. It's pretty common.

That tree is the worst tree to plant !

As with almost every sidewalk tree, there's not nearly enough space around the tree for it to spread its roots. It will eventually either be stunted and start to look bad (which will inevitably lead to it being cut down), or it will cause the sidewalk and street around it to buckle and crack which will have the same effect.

Honey Locust? How many people will be pricked by the thorns? It's not a good choice for that location, IMO.

Fixing half branches is so fking annoying. It's not that hard to cut back to the nodes!!!

Hey Good People! PART 2 will be up tomorrow... By following these basic elements, you can prune your trees effectively during the growing season to promote healthy growth and a beautiful shape. For further guidance on specific tree species and pruning techniques, consulting a qualified arborist or researching online resources is recommended. Here are some of the basics you will want to consider for proper pruning of your trees... Dead wood: Dead branches are not only unsightly but can also harbor pests and diseases. Pruning them out improves the overall health of the tree and allows light and air to penetrate the canopy. (Dead wood does not contribute to the canopy percentage) Crossing and rubbing branches: These branches can damage each other through friction, creating wounds that become entry points for disease. Removing one or both branches can prevent this damage. Redundant branches: Branches that grow inwards towards the center of the tree compete for resources with other branches and contribute to poor air circulation. Thinning them out allows for better light penetration and air flow. Narrow crotches: These are V-shaped crotches where two branches grow very close together. Narrow crotches are weak and more prone to splitting under heavy loads like snow or wind. If possible, removing one of the branches while they are young can help prevent future problems. Canopy percentage: The canopy refers to the leafy upper layer of the tree. While the exact percentage will vary depending on the species and desired outcome, generally, you don't want to remove NO MORE than 20-25% of the canopy during a single growing season. Removing too much foliage can stress the tree and hinder its growth. Additional tips: Always use sharp, clean pruning tools to make clean cuts that heal faster. Prune according to the tree species' specific needs. Some trees respond better to pruning at certain times of the year. Consider hiring a professional arborist for larger trees or if you are unsure about proper pruning techniques.

Hey Good People!! Leaving a stub behind when pruning your trees is a bad idea! The collar can't properly close over a stub, leaving an open wound susceptible to infection. Additionally, the stub itself can die back and become a source of decay. The ideal pruning cut is just outside the branch collar. This allows the collar to function properly, promotes healthy compartmentalization, and helps the tree heal more quickly. You shouldn't prune branches directly at the collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk) or "wound wood", either. Here's why: Protecting the Collar: The collar is crucial for the tree's healing process. It contains special cells that help seal the wound and prevent disease and decay. Cutting into the collar damages this natural defense system. Compartmentilization: This is the tree's way of isolating damage. By making a proper cut just outside the collar, the tree can effectively wall off the wound with new growth, minimizing the spread of potential problems.

Hey Good People! There are a couple of reasons to prune included branches and redundant branches from a tree: Included Branches: Weak Structure: These branches rub against each other, creating a weak point where bark gets pinched and can't grow properly. This "included bark" is prone to splitting and can lead to serious injuries in the tree, making it susceptible to disease and potentially breaking during storms. Reduced Growth: The rubbing can restrict the flow of sap and nutrients, limiting growth in both branches. Redundant Branches: Airflow and Light: Excessive branches can crowd each other, reducing airflow and light penetration within the tree's canopy. This can weaken the tree overall and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Focus Growth: By removing some redundant branches, you can encourage the tree to direct its energy towards the remaining, healthier branches. This can improve the tree's overall form and fruit production (if applicable). Overall Benefits: Pruning included and redundant branches promotes a healthier, stronger tree with better airflow and light penetration. This can lead to: Increased resistance to disease and pests Improved branch structure and reduced risk of breakage Enhanced flower and fruit production (for fruit trees) A more aesthetically pleasing appearance Note: Pruning trees, especially large ones, can be tricky. If you're unsure about how to proceed, it's always best to consult with a certified arborist.

Hey Good People! There are a couple of reasons to prune included branches and redundant branches from a tree: Included Branches: Weak Structure: These branches rub against each other, creating a weak point where bark gets pinched and can't grow properly. This "included bark" is prone to splitting and can lead to serious injuries in the tree, making it susceptible to disease and potentially breaking during storms. Reduced Growth: The rubbing can restrict the flow of sap and nutrients, limiting growth in both branches. Redundant Branches: Airflow and Light: Excessive branches can crowd each other, reducing airflow and light penetration within the tree's canopy. This can weaken the tree overall and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Focus Growth: By removing some redundant branches, you can encourage the tree to direct its energy towards the remaining, healthier branches. This can improve the tree's overall form and fruit production (if applicable). Overall Benefits: Pruning included and redundant branches promotes a healthier, stronger tree with better airflow and light penetration. This can lead to: Increased resistance to disease and pests Improved branch structure and reduced risk of breakage Enhanced flower and fruit production (for fruit trees) A more aesthetically pleasing appearance Note: Pruning trees, especially large ones, can be tricky. If you're unsure about how to proceed, it's always best to consult with a certified arborist.

Hey Good People! Don't get me wrong...while native plants are fantastic for local ecosystems, introducing non-native (but non-invasive!) varieties can surprisingly boost interest, and biodiversity. Here's why: More food sources: Many insects and animals rely on specific plants for food. Adding new varieties, even if not native, can provide a wider range of options, potentially attracting new species. Different flowering times: A mix of plants with various bloom times extends the food source for pollinators throughout the growing season, supporting a more diverse pollinator population. Unique habitat niches: Non-native plants, if carefully chosen, can create new habitat niches for certain birds or small animals that wouldn't be found in a purely native landscape. The key is to avoid invasive species that can outcompete natives and disrupt the balance. With thoughtful selection, a mix of native and non-invasive plants can create a richer and more diverse landscape, as well as ecosystem.