Відео

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Thanks, 20" is my max diameter for a firewood log, anything bigger gos to the sawmill. The log ramp is 20' long with 36" wide between the bottom vertical post and 27"wide between the top vertical posts. The ramp from chainsaw to splitter is 12' long and 20" wide. The chainsaw height is about 3' but this changes quickly as the saw dust builds up.

The jack is 20 ton.

@@RichMenzel ok. I doubt you are putting 20 tons of pressure on that. Do you have a gauge.

@@tjs_welding_and_fabrication I'm sure your right, and I do not have a gauge. With a deadhead system you really don't need one.

@@RichMenzel Thanks for the prompt reply.

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Thanks. Ya, the system doesn't work without a tractor.

Agreed, problem is it won't fit on that winch.

Ya, "painfully slow line speed" . It's a hydraulic winch not electric. I don't have any experience with this type of winch either electric or hydraulic but like you said painfully slow. And to make it worse it doesn't spool worth a dam. Which is the reason I haven't done a detail video on it. Thinking of scraping the hydraulic winch and building a PTO winch spooling from the top.

@@RichMenzel ah, ill havta watch it again. Being hydraulic, there may be a way to speed it up? Higher gpm on the tractor? Bigger motor on the winch? What is the winch exactly? Thanks for the reply

Warrior Winches 15000NH 15,000 lb. NH Series Hydraulic Winch. Max GPM on the tractor is 15. It does help a little if push the RPMs on the tractor, but the poor spooling is still a major issue for me. The remote hydraulic control works great, I really like that aspect of the system. I think if I run the cable up the top with a directional pulley, like they do on the Farmi winch, it would work better. I also thought about speeding up the winch by replacing the cable with a chain gear on the winch hub to drive a separate cable drum, using gear reduction to speed it up.

@@RichMenzel With a small tractor and a single operator the line speed isn't that important. You're not getting 15 to 20 cord a day.

Hi, The bottle jack used on this press is a single acting cylinder. Which means it can only apply pressure in one direction, which is why you need springs to return. If you use a double acting cylinder you could apply pressure both up and down.

Thanks, Ya I see what you mean. For me, moving the logs is all tractor time. Not having to touch the log or the splits is key. I don't have a huge log pile, I cut trees as I need them, usually half dozen at a time, or what I think I can do in a day.

You're welcome. I hope it was helpful.

Thanks, yep easy and cheap DIY

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Thanks, 3" x 1/2", 1-1/4" pins

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Thanks, not really interested in selling it, but someone should, it works incredibly well. Nice setup for the maple syrup, you must burn through a lot of firewood.

We burn through quite a bit. Although it would be way worse if I didn’t have the arch as insulated as we do. Beats buying fuel oil but labor intensive so looking at ways of making things more efficient.

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Thanks, and good luck with your build. Let me know if you have any questions.

I bought the Log-Lift bags directly from the manufacture NNZ.com. The last time I bought them was 4 years ago and I don't remember what I paid. I stoped using them because after 3 years they start falling apart. Now I make my own firewood boxes out of wood. They are a lot bigger, three times the size, and should last a lot longer. Because I mill my own lumber off my wood lot they only cost are the screws to put them together and my labor.

Thanks Matt

I use Weatherhead U Series

@@RichMenzel Thanks Rich.

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Thanks Mike

Yes, would you like to see it?

4" ID, 4.5" OD, 1/4" wall. Thanks and good luck on your build.

@@RichMenzel Thanks for the reply. 4 inch heavy wall pipe it is.

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Thanks for the tip!

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Hi Curtis, sometimes they need a little push or in the worst case ya got to walk over and help them down. But the best part is it doesn't take much effort and you don't have to actually pick them up. The ramp actually works better than I expected.

Hi Jason, I'll see if I can do a splitter walk around video. In my opinion the box wedge is the only way to go in this type of set up. I tried to copy the Easton Made box wedge. The original splitter had a wedge attached to the ram and a fixed stop welded to the beam. If you ask me this type of splitter is got to be the worst design ever. I suppose the advantage is that it can be tilted to the vertical position, I found both positions to be useless. I cut the stop off the beam and attached it to the ram, removed the tilt and made if fixed. My wedge is removable, I welded two plates to the center sides of the beam which created a channel for the the wedge. Added the two side tables and an out-feed table. The modified splitter seems to be working okay for now. Definitely not as nice as an Easton Made, but the price was right!

@@RichMenzel this is exactly what I want to do with my splitter! I’ve been using the fixed blade on the ram and would like to convert to a box wedge system without the eastonmade price tag and wait time.

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Thanks, I don't really ness with cords, stacking, counting or handling the firewood, don't have to. I sell firewood by the piece at my self serve road side stand. Up to now I have been using bags and according to the manufacture they hold 1/3 of a loose cord. Actually I have no idea if that's even close, but I guess it could be. For me, the bags only serve as a catch, transport and storing mechanism. The down side of the bags is they only last maybe 3 years. Im switching over to wooden boxes will see how that goes, should last longer and because I mill my own lumber cheaper.

@@RichMenzel cool. Yhe bags aren't cheap. Hopefully wood baskets work well for you. As long as they're tough enough to take the abuse of time. I built one basket that holds a half cord loose or stacked. There's always a trade off, but the less handling the better.

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Thanks! So far the system is working really well. I've had my eye on an Easton Made 12-22 splitter with a box wedge for a while now, but I just can't justify the $12,000. Faster cycle time would be nice but I don't really needed it. The big plus for me is not having to handle the firewood.

Overall height from floor to top of frame is 72", Width from the outside of the verticals is 45", Usable area is 42" high and 39" wide.

I was just rewatching your video and forgot you already commented about it, and started making boxes. Not sure how you empty those massive boxes, but they look rugged. I do like the idea of easy bags, but they are pricey is seems.

The boxes have removable sections on the front which slide up out of a channel. Similar to the bags, I just bring them down to the house or shop and park them next to the door as needed. The boxes are experimental at this point and I'm sure I'll try a few different ways to access the firewood. Haven't actually tried it yet, I'll see how it gos this winter. I'm in the process of converting my sawmill from manual to hydraulic, need to get that done so I can mill the lumber for more boxes. If for some reason the boxes don't work out I will bite the bullet and just buy more bags. For me its worth it not to handle the firewood. I bought the bags directly from NNZ.

Thanks Mike, definitely easier on the body. Good luck with the new processor.

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Glad you found it useful. The system works well for me as a one man operation, obviously not the fastest but it eliminates the hard part of handling the wood. Very cool, you as a pro, could use some part of the system in your operation!

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Thanks, Good luck on your build. Gravity is hard to beat, always there, never brakes, and its free. Lately, every year the chainsaw seems to get a little heaver, having it attached turned out to be a huge improvement. Didn't really think about, but your right, switching between bucking and splitting is nice. Also not having to handle the splits is a big deal for me, I hate stacking firewood. I would love to see what you build, let me know if put up a UA-cam, even if its just stills. When putting this video together I came across the YT video which I got the idea of the log ramp, he had a real easy way to attach the chainsaw, here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/AiDFiP1GSok/v-deo.html

Not really a hole, just a 6' high cut into the side of the hill. That way you can drive a machine, tractor, forklift, what ever up to it. The chainsaw mount uses bar extender nuts. Having a lathe and mill I machined them from a piece of solid steel. You can buy them online from a number of places, here's one: www.baileysonline.com/logosol-extender-nut-each-m8.html I really like using the extender nuts, no modifications to the saw needed. Wasn't sure if they would be strong or hold the saw securely , but they are working great so far. I'll try to post another YT video showing the details. The system was super cheap and easy to build and works way better than I even hoped for!

Video showing more detail: ua-cam.com/video/F93eGBlT5pM/v-deo.html

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It's the small HarborFreight 2500lb winch, plenty of power. It came with a wireless remote and steal cable, but I think the synthetic cable would be better. I just use a 12 volt battery which will out last me and I charge it at the end of the day.

@@RichMenzel Thanks Rich, what a great setup, I just bought a Super Split and I’ll cut my rounds with your method. So glad I found your channel

Video showing more detail: ua-cam.com/video/F93eGBlT5pM/v-deo.html

@@RichMenzel you could always wire it to a solar charger if you don’t want to have to deal with putting it on the charger at the end of the day.

@@amandadavis9726 Sounds like a good idea, Thanks.

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