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Hi thanks...I had issues with that project. One was that the track wouldnt mesh with the video. A guy found that my gpx track had erroneous entries and was making Quickroute crash. I also failed to start my gps at the start, but someone gave me some tips, and I hope to resolve that. I belong to a facebook page called headcam orienteering, where I am getting help. My last hurdle is to manage adding a voiceover to the finished product, in the event I want to evaluate my run, or if I felt that I did not support my run with speech while on the course.

You can watch the Dorey park one again...it is a newer version because I forgot the sounds...not that it matters to you!!! But I did try adding subtitles before and after, but the editor is not accepting the changes.

Hello. Cant say I ever noticed that. Yeah the repair worked fine. You may have a damaged thread in there. If you can, take the triangle off and try to run a similar bolt thru from the opposite side. Dont use the real bolt in case there is something in the insert that could damage the bolt. If it even shows a hint of binding, stop immediately and run a high quality tap into it from that same off-end. I would recommend a normal tap, not a bottoming one. If you dont have a tap, a cheap way out is to file a groove along the threads of a bolt with a very good triangular file....essentially making your own tap.

@@johnrobertson7583 Thank you for the reply. Glad to hear the repair worked fine. I will have to try that and let you know. I have a video of what I'm talking about at ua-cam.com/video/eWV_OIuhvmQ/v-deo.html My other concern is that the linkage has previously rubbed some of the material away on the drive side, so now there a slight circle grove in the frame. I worry as the bearings get broke-in/ looser over time, the link will get pulled more into the frame as the pivot axle bolt has to be tightened down ever so slightly more. Hope to address that issue before I ride the bike again, too. I don't want to make things worse. LOL.

Don’t follow you?

Hello. It’s the hobbyking kit. The frame is very light , so to get this kind of flight time you need to match your parts up balanced between power and weight.

My other video made just 5 minutes before this one shows that.

That’s why I always watch 3 or 4 scenes in order to get my fulfillment.

you do know that using heat on metal it causes it to expand not contract. An outer race of a bearing pressed into another assembly needs to be shrunken or at the same temperature and not expanded. if your technique was the ideal solution the race would’ve fallen out by itself, most likely there were some corrosion. Unless you were saying you heated the pivot and not the race. Something to keep in mind if you are ever assembling something that you do not want to come apart like that pivot for example. You would put the bearing in your freezer and the link in the toaster oven. Cannondale used to do use the same process for their headshock forks it was a one time deal it would have to be cut off.

Good job! You do have to watch out though those lower links are cast and then machined and the heat from the torch could possibly change the properties of the metal since they are not machined from billet. Now if you were to take that one step further, to make it easier to install the bearings the next time, put them in the freezer and then when your link is still warm and drop them in and you hardly will need to press them in at all.

Thanks...its a 3DR Solo. Its very reliable. Ive flown it out to 2300 feet Line of Sight...I originally wanted to fly under the bridge, as I had previously stood directly under it on a big rock...but when I saw the low clearance and splashing...I rethought my plan!

Thanks bud. Sorry for the delay. Its a very smooth AP rig...the 3DR Solo. The water is up almost 14 feet...and even at lower levels , a 40 foot railroad car is at the bottom!!

How much is one? I did t remember? I had to buy one and it took a week to get here. My material is free and I gain experience on the machines. Incidentally , I used this one as the model to fabricate a longer one forusing the wolftooth 40 cog. How many people do you know who can do that ? Next time you go to a slope with your bike and you break a component, just tell the local machine shop who is in business to replace broken components on some Leone’s bike wh Mid staying a week that you will just order one by mail. I can make anything for anyone of my buddies here.

I did not see all of your earlier reply. I’m not sure I understand what you think the problem is in getting it to be straight. I am using billet plate aluminum which is exactly the thickness of the factory hanger. I only have to machine two small areas with a mill...95% of the work was done using a band saw...including shaping and making the nothches.

Hi alasdair One of the biggest variables is the brand and type of filament. They type I used isn’t the most common now, or the best. One of my drone club buddies has made many phenomenal prints with flex filament. Give me a few days to find out. Take care.

I dont remember which object this is...but I printed many things with HIPS and although a few failed...the most of them were good...I had to experiment with the temperature and feedrate settings. Edit...yes also the cooling fans needed adjustment...there was some warping due to un-even cooling.

Hi. Also...there is a big problem with uneven cooling of an object due to the surrounding room air. If there is a strong breeze from an AC unit that air migrates into the print chamber. So if the bed is warm and the upper section of a tall object gets too cool...very bad warping will occur. This didnt seem to be as bad with PLA. I have access to a new Ulti3_Tall...it has dual heads. Ask me to print something for you if you are having difficulties.

Oh yeah, the uneven cooling seem to be a major issue with filaments like ABS, and so HIPS as well. I heard that someone had bad adhesion between the layers simply because he walked in to check the print and by doing so he moved the air around the printer. Thank you very much for all the precious info by the way!

If you notice things like stranding between layers...one trick is to raise the filament feed rate 5 or 10 percent. The object may not be as clean, but if you were going for something smooth anyway, youre post processing already with a standard filament extrusion.

Good hint! Thanks :)

I would say retraction only causes the filamant to have to re-compress before it has enough pressure to come out the nozzle. My filament is NOT 2.85...it seemed to be more about 2.3....either way...you probably have noticed that even rigid filament has slop in the guide tube. I think a Makerbot with the puller head extruder would work much better.

John Robertson I was wondering about a small puller at the extruder side to get rid of the slop myself. I have only been printing for 1 week now - have lots to learn about it. I sprayed WD40 on the TPU95 spool today 😀. The prints came out alright.

I dont know if the Ulti can be set up like that. The extra mass on the print assembly would hinder the ability of the head to move quickly. Even makerbots tube causes drag, which is why people have made top mount rack systems...their extruder uses much less effort that way. Of course...and I dont know if they have it....but the ulti heated bedplate lets it use things other than just PLA.

Excellent point my flying friend.

Cuda FX hey buddy thanks for the great questions. The ultimaker 2 comes with cura. it's free to download. The latest version has machine settings if you can alter and within those you can select wireframe. Within wireframe there are about 30 to 40 different settings most of them I left the default including the ones that are the vertical transition and delay times for the triangles.

Cuda FX the biggest issue with wireframe printing is what you will see if you look at my older video of Rodin's The Thinker in wireframe. the printer has a hard time making a very small diameter circle with the minimum number of triangles. it will leave some strands hanging and you will need to have a long probe like a coffee stirrer or something too suspend the filament by hand in mid-air while it cools for the next pass to come around or your entire print will fail

ABMNS PRODUCTION yeah they are great when you have no access to parts that are proprietary, or want to experiment. you havento be willing to spend about $2000 for somethjng that will give you repeatable results, AND be able to use filament other than pla, which doesnt require a heated buildplate.

go for it! entry level printers are cheaper and better than ever. starting at ~150 for i3 clone kits, and for around 300-500 you can get a really nice machine, that outperforms printers that costed thousands just a few years ago. you gotta learn some CAD, though, to make it wirthwhile. otherwise you'll be stuck printing trinkets and fidget spinners from thingyverse. :D

RICHARD RHOADS hi rich. sorry for the delay in replying. i looked for my build sheet for esc, but cant find it. i will ask my alien facebook page buddies, theyve built more. my props are 12" tarot/hobbyking style. they work real well but are a little noisy when flying , they sound really bad on video... sad face. aeronaut cam props are real nice, andni want to try a set. i use tmotor props on my tbs discovery endurance, & zeal ,xoar , & align all use the same mold style. also rctimer has props in both the tarot style and tmotor style. there is a dramatic foil shape difference in the tmotor, which translates to lower noise, faster spin-up to respond to flight changes, but oddly lower efficiency....not much though.

Sorry for the forgotten reply buddy. Hope your build went well. My props are the Tarot style carbon 12 inchx5. Forgot ESC style.

hi choppa66, thank you for your positive comments. no the 680 is an actual production. we have a facebook group fornit. i will get the admin to show me how to send you the link. with that, you will be able to get a lot of information from many sources around the world who have this aircraft. There are many people using the APM flight controller some have the Naza as I do, and there may be others that I'm unaware of. as you're probably aware comma the list of components for any aircraft spans many choices! And many dollars!

Hi John,sorry for the delay i have been working away. Thanks for taking the time & getting back to me,i haven't seen that 680 then? i have bought the alien 560 & the predator 650,im new to all this & im having a go at building one? im planning on making it it bigger by extending the arms & changing the motor mounts to tarot mounts,its the configuration or the frame style im not sure about in mission planner? when i extend the arms it changes the geometry of the frame,i.e makes it not square? its changes it to either a spider style frame which there is a setting for in mission planner? or a rectangular frame which there isn't? but im guessing its maybe an 'H' configuration if its rectangular? i made a quick video on my channel if it doesn't make sense? any help or advice would be great. many thanks Geoff.

+Choppa66 i will mail the face book site that I am part of to you and to your Gmail address. the APM Mission planner that you speak of is not something I am familiar with I use the Naza system flight controller from DJ.i. the geometry will not change that much as the motors are going to meet moving relatively the same distance apart. is there a reason you want to go with longer arms? You should already be able to put 17 inch propellers on the 680 but probably not more than fifteen on the 560. there is a cool new multi-rotor I saw with the folding frame has a awkwardly lifted motor mount so when the arm is folded it sits above the frame I do not recall the name but it is a 560 size frame to make a 690

+Choppa66 replace the word awkwardly with upwardly

Hi John, thank you that will be great! thats something new ive learnt then,i thought most people used mission planner to calibrate flight controllers etc? im guessing that DJI have there own software for the Naza then? Mission Planner is very very good,but so very complicated for an idiot like me!! Ha! Im not sure why i wanted to make the frames bigger really,i think i read somewhere that the props shouldnt be running/spinning over the frame? Probably a load of nonsense then!! i do have some 330 Kv motors & 15 inch props that i want to put on them,but the mounts wont allow them to fit so hence the tarot mounts,but that was the problem with tarot mounts that they change the geometry of frame,but from what you say that doesnt sound like a problem? thanks again for your help & advice John.

I have not tried printing with it yet. I can tell you it's electrical properties are not truly conductive as a wire would be. it has about 20 240 ohms of resistance per foot. so it is more suitable to something they like static dissipative use. I do recall it being close to pla, and with that type of filament I have use a heated bed but only in the 50-60 centigrade range, and not the 90 as ABS would use. in addition I always use Aqua Net hairspray on the build bed regardless of what type of material and printing with.

hey thanks for the comment. this craft may be a year or two old anyway. it's bad that it took so long to resolve , since these things have been out for a long time . yeah happy Daylight Savings day I just woke up, and realized I have a bike ride in less than hour!

next time you run into an issue like that , that is a screw with a stripped head , get a screw extractor that's designed to go in a drill they have left handed cutting flutes that will turn into the head and then extract it. they're also the standard hand tap screw extractors.

John Robertson Thank you for sharing man but right now with the years, when i see bad quality screws i don't even try to put them on my model aircrafts, i replace them right away with good quality ones! But since life is a cascade of new adventures maybe one day i will need to use your tips! Enjoy your sunday and take care!

yeah wierd...heh...thats not MY landing gear!!! you can skip any comments that loser is posting...hes a blatant video clip thief

yeah i was havin fun that day. snow riding is fun when its a bit crunchy.

i used a cotton ball with a few drops of light machine oil, the same stuff used to lube the tracking rods.

and wiped it just before it went into the drive block

Ah, okay. thanks for the prompt reply.

+Robert Cathcart sure. thx for checking it out. have you seen my latest? wireframe rodins thinker

+Robert Cathcart you won't need to oil it the whole time. after the first half meter or so constantly, then every few minutes. you should be able to see the film of oil inside the guide tube. don't worry about the residual oil that will all get tracked through on the next print won't affect it that's what I did

Fallguy1959 Oop...my contacts are fuzzy, I thought your name was Fattguy1959!

John Robertson Was wondering if you had your contacts in when you didn't see the gps upright.

Fallguy1959 I wish I could have blamed it on them!!! Wow...handling the frame with 4 arms still having motors mounted was a real chore especially when it came to the total removal of the top plate! If you ever break a side arm, remove most of the screws from the plate and the little bronze t-bones, then you will have enough room to re-attach the tbones UNDER the plate, then do the same for the other side, and then neither clamped in arm will fall out.

There it is, the reply bar. Harder to find on a mobile device.

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