Відео

@@87Rado they do. But the problem is they're designed for an incandescent bulb and the LED retrofit is a non optimized solution. This is a solution where the bulb and housing are designed together to give an optimized light output.

Nope, but I do wind up that direction a good bit

How long have you run it? Needs a few minutes to get all the air out of the lines once it's fired up after injector lines have been removed.

​@@Roadhog0about 10 to 15. I'm gonna see about reseating the hard lines but concerned about anything else

@@skullcracker112 if they're not leaking already I wouldn't bother with the hard lines. Maybe dirty injectors?? Good luck!

They're pretty cool! I want to try the Bangin Headlights round headlights on something next!

Ancient video, I knew what was wrong with the truck. Yes crankcase pressure is typical on a 6.2/5, but not at the pulsing rate this engine was doing in the video and almost blowing the oil cap off. Piston was split in half. That engine isn't even in the truck anymore.

Yeah, the price is a little stepper than I like, but it's one of those spots where you definitely get what you pay for.

Yes! The low beam and high beam in the Retrobrights are separate LEDs so you get them both on high beam. It's pretty cool!

Holly brightes are great, but one woild actually see better eithbthe vintsge white(yellow hue) or 3000k selective yellow(if legal in your state) then one would with neutral (pure white) or even cool white(blue hue) Useable light > perceived brightness

That was to give an apples to apples comparison when the highs came on. I wasn't interested in comparing the lower high beams, just the Holley's versus H4s

@@Roadhog0 gotcha

No list, but there's lots of helpful guys on dieselplace. That being said, I recommend using like an 88-95 serpentine setup (driver side alternator). That fits with the db2 injection pump. You'll need all the brackets, water pump and backing plate, alternator, power steering pump, coolant crossover and that's about it

Ok thanks

Nope, runs off the crank sensor from a 12v Cummins. Needs a pull up resistor and that's it. Also needs to be calibrated for a 4 cylinder gas engine.

I definitely did that a time or two 😂

@@Roadhog0 I'm just learning about these engines as I found an 85 c30 6.2/sm465 I fell in love with I'm trying to buy... I really only want to tare an engine apart once so looks like I might go with head studs, good gasket, upgrade the harmonic balancer, a girdle, intercooler and the 6.5 turbo stuff with an upgraded turbo so well see if she goes or blows

@@edp9811 pretty solid plan. Intercooler is nice, but not a requirement. Girdle is nice as well, but you basically have to make your own. I never started mass producing the one I designed up. Otherwise, thats basically it.

@@Roadhog0 I wasnst sure if a girdle had to be made or what yet but I guess now I know and I do hear intercooler is not needed but I figured if I'm going to go with everything else why not, plus I'll find any excuse to fabricate something haha. Thanks for the videos and replies

I've thought about it but with how little I really drive this truck at night the singles are plenty. It's as good as my semi modern car.

Thank you thank you! Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of the price, but they are definitely a get what you pay for item. I have tried the lower cost projector style you can find on Amazon/eBay which are better than sealed beams, but not as nice as the Holley's. As for the trans, that's actually a 6 speed behind a 12v Cummins.

So the factory bulb (H4651) is pinned different than an H4 bulb like these Holley's. Two of the terminals need to be swapped so it's wired correctly. Quick google will give the proper pinout and it can be done with a screwdriver.

These lights have both high and low in one like the stock light. I only put the uppers in and left the lowers halogen since they worked decent. Note you need to repin the truck side connector to H4 pin out when these are installed (can be done with a screwdriver).

@@Roadhog0 okay so they will not work like the original all 4 will be on all the time and just go high and low beam

@@buck4050 no, they will work as original as the lowers only have wiring for the high beams.

@@Roadhog0 okay I gotcha thank you

Yup, was lazy and deleted CDR and went to the turbo intake. Later I ran an oil separator in line cause this thing huffed a LOT of oil. Would run a CDR again next time.

Thank you! Definitely recommend them, even if you only stick one pair in for your outside lights they're worth it.

Shit no 😂

Yup, they should be aimed about the same. Some lights do better for oncoming glare with the driver a little lower. In this case though I had tried a different light the week earlier on one side and the H4 housing didn't get put back in the truck exactly the same so it was higher on the passenger side.

The diy marks you would layout on a wall have the drivers side aiming point lower than the passenger side to aid in beam formation at distance without undue glare to oncoming traffic.

They should absolutely NOT be aimed at the same height. The drivers side one should be lower and slightly canted right so as not to glare on coming drivers.

Thank you thank you! Most stuff I don't get soapboxy about, but shitty aftermarket headlights that make it harder for the owner, and me, to see is where I draw the line! Thanks man!

I bought these from HeadlightRevolution

It's sucking all underhood hot air, it works, but loses a few HP.

I ran that radiator a good 7 years I think without a single issue. At the price I highly recommend! The only reason I removed is the truck got a Cummins 😅

@@Roadhog0 thank you for the info I will get one hopefully it’s a good one.. that’s sweet how is she running on a Cummins ? Did your 6.2 gave up or just wanted something different?? I wanted to do that years back but I just stuck with old 6.2 diesel

@@nestdiz6847 needed something with more oomph. The 6.2 I had in it was a tired temporary engine after the last cracked a piston (guy who built it used bad parts).

@@Roadhog0 man that sucks but at least you still have a Diesel engine on it and have that classic on the road

@@nestdiz6847 yeah, this truck will see lots more miles! The 6.2 will end up in a cruise around truck next once it's freshened up. One more project on the list

Owned one that way. Preferred the straight piped turbo

Cause I put it on. Didn't want to run the v belt setup.

Upside to west coast trucks!

HX35 off an industrial 5.9

🤔 hmmm beautiful truck by the way I also have a 1985 Chevy 6.2 banks turbo diesel it works great. What’s the psi?? Are you running a boost controller?? So for the question I’m just interested

@@88gunnz94 It's a good truck! Hindsight in this video I was running a CKO HX40. I would see 15+PSI without issue. No boost controller. Had a wastegate on this one a while but took it off. I was running a 15PSI wastegate for a long while.

I’m think of changing the turbo but I don’t know witch one. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations on witch turbo I’m not looking For more than 15 pounds of boost I just want something better other than the banks turbo

@@88gunnz94 I would look at an HX35 off a cummins. Very nice sized turbo for the 6.2. I wouldnt go over 8ish PSI if you dont have head studs though. Really good way to make a head gasket let go.

Do not, but there's some info on dieselplace. It's basically bolt in minus cutting a hole in the floor and making a clutch line (use an fittings). Also use a 6.5 solid flywheel clutch, 6.2 clutch rattles at idle.

@@Roadhog0 Nice, What year and NV4500 works best? It would go into a 87 k30 with a gas motor. Think it would be a problem?

@@Blakep7704 for serviceability I like the 92-94 trans because of external slave. It needs 4" of lift on the diesel, the gas I'm not sure The passenger bump stop needs dropped about an inch as well, so that's where you may need a little lift. Internal slave wont need the lift. Should bolt up to a 350 no problem. Use the correct flywheel for your engine that is single mass and clutch to match it and you should be set.

@@Roadhog0 Can you send over a video under your truck to see what it looks like?

@@Blakep7704 about all I can do is dig out some pictures. It's all out of the truck right now and not going back in.

Nope! I've run that much boost for years on this truck with no ill effects. The problem I've had is I kept getting literal trash for pistons... Headgaskets and all that were good. I am also running headstuds. No way I would run over 10PSI on an engine without studs.

3" straight pipe to behind the rear wheels. Nothing crazy

@Mike Zona still got it!! Though it's mostly through a Cummins repower though right now

@Mike Zona I'm thinking 66 Chevy shorty

@Mike Zona Yup, still got it. A 6.2 wouldn't be a bad truck for that. Or find a 5.9 truck. Im doing the 5.9 swap and stoked for it.

I promise you they will take a lot more than 3lb of boost reliably. 15-20 is no problem with 6.5 gaskets and studs. The reliability problem on this truck was the initial engine builder was a moron and I kept finding their mistakes.

6.2 without OD and 4.10s will do 70 no problem but it's happiest at 65 I found, this is presuming a stock tire size. I had a th400 at the time, so you'll do better with the 4 speed. I'm 4.10 with OD and 33" tires. It's pretty happy the way I have it setup

Roadhog0 I’m hoping maybe it’s a fuel problem and it’s not just pulling up to speed or something I don’t think he’s change the gear ratio and I wouldn’t think it would’ve came from the factory that way only doing 55 or 60

@@theaveragejoestinkeringand4407 Yup, I think you're onto something. Mine was hammered and did just fine on the highway.

@@Roadhog0 mine with a th400 and 4.10s and stock tires got me 25 at 85 😂

Yup, still got it

@Mike Zona the truck gets about 15mpg combined and I see up to 17 on the highway. It's a very solid highway cruiser as built. Enough power to do it unloaded, a bit lacking loaded but still usable. She's going Cummins this summer though. I need the extra oomph to pull some trailers.

@Mike Zona I have 4.10's in the truck. I would ideally go to 3.73 if I was to do it again. With the OD and the tire size that would cruise 70 really nice. Though if I was really to build it again I would probably keep the truck stock height. I wouldnt want to go any bigger than the 4" and 235/85R16 tires I have on there now. Makes the bed much harder to use.

Getting a little scared cause there's a donor cummins truck sitting in the yard

Thanks for that answer

I think there might be one newer than this. But nothing really. Just been driving the truck

@@Roadhog0 thanks. I really dig your truck. They are hard to find. People are saying it's better just to get a 454 instead of the 6.2. I just need a good wood hauling truck that can also pull a horse trainer about less than 10 miles about once a month

@@nomnum3476 I'd happily run a 6.2 doing that. That's basically all I do with this truck. Is it fast, no. But does it do the job and get better MPG than a 454, yes. But it's far from fast

17-18 highway, 15 combined, and about 11-13 hauling. Still better than my folks 454!

Nope, bolt up like factory.GM uses basically the same offset on everything back quite a while. You need special lugnuts though ($25 bucks on ebay).

@@nathanwilhelm801 Can you give me a part number or an ebay title/listing number?

@@almonjacob3496 This is what you'll need "LUG NUTS DUAL EXTERNAL THREAD 9/16-18 8 LUG NUTS CHEVY, GMC 1971-1988"

Yup

@@nathanwilhelm801 any update videos? im trying to build and script one in a video game and need sounds ahha

@@Aboutthatbuslife There's a handful in video. Take a look.

Just a bunch of 3" pipe turbo back. Nothing fancy, no muffler. Just lucked out on the sound!

Makes small block numbers, so I'm happy

@70 Olds...Hey Nate, look who's callin the kettle black. LOL The only manufacturer with worse flowing cylinder heads than Pontiac...is Oldsmobile. (Nice job on the 6.2 Nate.)

@@Roadhog0 This guy goes around to all the 6.2 videos and disses them... he must live some sort of sad unhappy life.

Stian Bendigtsen Yup, fixed and going down the road. Oddest issue I've ever seen. It flooded out a cylinder such that it was on the edge of hydrolocking. Pulled glow plugs and cranked it. No more problems!