Відео

Awesome job!

Hi Dave, beautiful build and nice job fibbing up this bar truss! Perhaps you caught this and fixed by now, but I want to point out one big problem with how you installed this. Trusses are a collection of triangular load carrying elements which makes them very strong! Any vertical load should have its center placed at the peak of one of those triangles. The pole you cut is now putting vertical force between two of those triangles that form the webbing of the truss. The top chord of a truss is in compression under load and the bottom chord is under tension. Steel is super strong under tension. Angle iron is not strong under side loads. The angled webbing pieces transfer the load from the top chord (top angle iron, which is under compression) to the bottom chord (the bottom angle iron, which is under tension) that post is going to buckle that top steel angle between the triangles as soon as its downward force exceeds the side loading strength of the angle itself. Typically the peak of the triangle would join directly under the point load the post is putting on your top chord. This is how your roof trusses are designed, an apex of the triangle is under each of your roof purlin mounting brackets. Picture the peak of the tringle centered under the post. Since those peaks are instead positioned to both sides of the post, you need to weld a vertical piece of steel to that top angle directly under that post straight down to the bottom angle. This will now triangulate that load. This will transfer that vertical load to the bottom chord, centered between the adjacent triangles. The load will then be transferred into tension instead of it buckling the top chord. Which would likely lead to a buckling failure of the whole bar truss the way it is now. I hope this has been remedied long before now, but if it hasn't, I would do it regardless of how much of a pain it would be. I would hate to see a potential structural failure in your beautiful home.

You did an awesome job! Seeing the process is very cool. Keep it up!

Interesting stuff! it's nice to see what kinda work goes into owning one of these.

I have lean to steel truss but, I don’t know how to calculate the post height for the truss pitch

Hello, Are you interested in testing our products? We would like to invite you to test the Flip Windshield for your Can-Am Maverick X3 Turbo

Thanks for the video hope the machine has held up well. Is there any flow control on the continuous aux hydraulic or is it 12gpm all the time?

When drilling into the can avoid drilling into the seam on the can

Just swapped out spark plugs and belt and still have that problem next thing to change migth be the coils

Dang, those anode bags are expensive! Great job

Cans will be together for life ❤

Have you ever had issues with your machine not wanting to move/ drive?

And the code was what???

Your video was helpful, thanks you. Question; I feel like I cleaned my heater well, even though there's a bit of rust still present. Barring the possibility that I need to clean it to a high shine, it is still presenting some orange flame. As in, not 100% blue. Do I need to keep cleaning until the flame is blue, or will the residual particulates burn off? Also, I'm guessing that coating the port with anything is a bad call, but is there anything I could do to limit the return of rust? TIA

Hey, I just discovered your channel. It's encouraging to see your floor truss you welded up. I'm wanting to do the same for our barndo build. I'm just looking for engineered specs to get me going.

So cool!

What rod ?

That's awesome! Looks like a very calming pit stop

Hermosos 💞

Thumbs up on this video! Had the same problem in the gas tube. Packed with Stink Bugs! Problem solved.

I've never seen anyone build their own metal trusses. Why not use wood trusses? That sure is a really thick floor. Could you just have used steel I beams? Nice job though.

Thank you sir

I found my belt tensioner froze up on its pivot, that belt tensioner has to move as a belt, cools down and warms up. If it’s frozen one place it doesn’t compensate for the cooling and eating of the belt, also make sure your belt tensioner swivel is not froze up. All those pieces have to be free so take it apart and look at it.

I see you’re still out there walking the mile! Nice and comprehensive video, brother.

Hey brother, that's a pretty hefty service! Plenty of power to run the shop. Thanks for the video! Some tips for making better videos. Make sure to watch them yourself as you had some doubled up clips. Also if you can watch it back without having to touch the volume knob throughout then you did a perfect job! You gotta think how many people watch and with mismatched audio levels that causes hundreds or more people all having to adjust their volumes. Keep it up! You're doing great!

Thank you for the video. I have a 1995 UNO 41E, 600 hours total. I have owned it since 2003. I have had no problems with mine. Use it to paint the house, install new gutters, pulling bushes out of the ground, installing street light poles, lifting all kinds of things. I got my second set of batteries from Costco (6 volt), they are 7 years old and still working. Again thank you for posting your repair I may need it one day.

I’m having a similar issues with my x3. What code was yours throwing if you can remember? Thanks!

I have 2017 maverick x3 and have a problem. In display written limp home mode and written this code. p1120. p2622. p212c. p2620. Can you help me?

Avant-copy

I'm hoping what you just showed me is the issue with my RV hot water heater. Mine is showing soot on the screen as well as up on the outside of the trailer above the hot water heater compartment. I shut off the propane so it's not available and I turned off the hot water heater switch inside the trailer for tonight. What made me suspicious though is I smelled something burning and I couldn't figure out what it was. But when I went back inside the water tank switch was red, I figured the propane tank was probably out of propane. So I went out and switched the tank over to a full one. Came back inside and turned on the hot water heater switch. I heard it ignite and then I saw through the kitchen window a brightness reflecting on the tree next to my trailer. I went out the door to see a flame coming out of the screen of the hot water heater door. Immediately I went back in and turned off the switch. Went back out and turned off the propane. It's too dark out now to work on it but I will in the morning. So the first thing I'm going to do is blow out anything that may be in the tube and inside the hot water heater. I noticed there is a wasp nest in the eve of the house I'm sitting near and we also have stink bugs here. I watched a video of another person who had ladybugs stuck in their hot water heater. He took his shop back and cleaned them out as well. So I will start there tomorrow to see what is wrong with my hot water heater. If that is as simple as it is I want to thank every camper and RV owner on UA-cam that has taught me this trick! 😊

I run a shop that repairs and service ATV/SXS , this one has only 1300 KLM on it , I checked the machine from end to end , cleaned the spark arrester , sensor connections and everything looks good .this bike was stored last fall working normally and came out like this two weeks ago .when I said it does nothing in reverse I mean nothing ,the engine remains at idle with throttle wide open

I have a problem that i have never seen before and maybe you and your Can Am friends can help me , so here is my situation , I have a 2020 850 Outlander XMR which is running like it is in Limp mode but it runs perfectly except it has little power (I would estimate about 30 percent ) It has no codes of any kind , no check engine light . another strange thing it is doing is when you start it and put it in reverse and squeeze the throttle absolutely nothing happens at all. I scanned it with buds2 and it shows no DTC'S . any thoughts would be great

I have a problem that i have never seen before and maybe you and your Can Am friends can help me , so here is my situation , I have a 2020 850 Outlander XMR which is running like it is in Limp mode but it runs perfectly except it has little power (I would estimate about 30 percent ) It has no codes of any kind , no check engine light . another strange thing it is doing is when you start it and put it in reverse and squeeze the throttle absolutely nothing happens at all. I scanned it with buds2 and it shows no DTC'S . any thoughts would be great

sounds like billybob thorton

Nice job with the rebuild! I'm curious - would you recommend buying a used lift like this? I saw a couple Uno 33 Es show up at an auction and got intrigued. I'm mostly concerned with operation on uneven terrain, getting it stuck on soft soil, the control boards going bust and being unable to replace them.

Sir I love the work you are doing. I got property upstate NY and will build my own barn in the near future God willing. My question is did you buy the lift or is it rented? I’m looking to built about your sizes structure and would appreciate your input about what’s the best way for savings on the overall cost of the build. Thank you. Nelson from Long Island NY

No airflow for the attic space?

How do you fasten the top plate to the steel?

Why insulate the lean-to roof? Snow thing? Just curious. Man, yall have done so much. Amazing and inspirational 👏

Im assuming that everything was square, so the sheet layout was close enough. Im also commenting this before the end of the video. 😅

Was this a kit you purchased?

Thank you for the video

Great video! I also have a UNO 33E that I purchased from my employer. They purchased it from a local rental store. It's a mid-1990s model and I've "known" it since around 2005. It was eventually replaced and sat outside for a couple of years before they finally sold it to me for $500 about 5 years ago. It's in pretty rough cosmetic shape, but mechanically sound. I need to fix the electric brake and the bucket crank-swivel mechanism.

I had the same problem with a T300 belt tensioner,it seemed like the tensioner spring was stretched..I removed it,clamped the block ends in a vice,turned the spring off the blocks.. then cut two turns of the spring off, one turn from each end..threaded the blocks back onto the spring and bolted it up..drive belt squeal no more..you could go cut more turns off,I tried to stay conservative

Looks Awesome

Wow! The exterior looks beautiful. A lot of hard work going into this home project. Very professionally done. You guys are awesome! Be safe! 😊❤

Use a self leveling laser!

It’s looking awesome, guys!

you are building my dream barndo.