Відео

@@hcfybguctugdhu5223 they are Rota SS10s in 17x7.5 et50

@@Drivers.Garage thankyou

Thank you 🙏🏻 good to know it helped. I didn’t use resistors for the airbag, I had it turned off in the ECU by the person who tuned it.

@@Drivers.Garage oke great, thanks mate 😋👍🏼

As well as being a master mechanic (jokes) I’m also hilariously funny! Mrs Driver doesn’t know how much of a catch I really am.

Happy to help 👌🏻 easy enough job. Can be a bit fiddly to get it nice and neat but not hard by any means. Have fun!

@@Drivers.Garageonly one thing for my OCD! Id have to of wiped the battery over! Mines a garage queen!! 😂

I didn’t try in all honesty as removing the dash is not that big of a job and I didn’t want to be fighting under the dash on my back. Plus it made it easier to make a bracket to hold the dash to the dash bar on that side of the dash, reducing vibrations etc.

Good to hear 👌🏻 sorry I can’t recommend anything. I never put any tape or sealant on it. Ran it like this for years, and it’s still going strong. Lip hasn’t moved after countless trackdays and a few Nurburgring trips. So far it hasn’t rubbed the paint.

That’s one of the reasons I was having the gearbox looked at. I was sold it with an Mfactory LSD already installed so was getting it checked out. It’s all good and ready to go.

Thank you buddy 🙏🏻 it won’t be a fast project around family life but I’m keen to see it done.

@@Drivers.Garage Hey, Patience is key. Family is more important anyways and once you're at the end you'll be so much more appreciative of everything you've put into the car.

@@Pynoxim1 exactly that. It’s going nowhere and will get done but my daughter is only 3 once 👌🏻

Once all the screws were out including all the hidden ones in the middle mine basically fell out.was no resistance at all.

@@Drivers.Garage i can't find the screws near the airbag 😑

I didn’t get them done before this video went up but have since sorted them off camera and will cover them in my next video but I simply shortened the gearbox end of one of the cables by approximately 13mm and appears to be working fine now. Obviously not be able to 100% confirm that until it’s moving but feels good.

@@Drivers.Garage I’ve just installed mine on CRZ cables and sits like yours

@@williamwebster7840 simple enough to fix, the left to right cable is the issue, just need to cut a small section out and weld it back together on the end where it attaches to the gearbox and it sorts it right out.

When’s next video I really wanna see how you’ve done it hahah

@@williamwebster7840 not going to lie, I’ve barely touched it to make the next video as I’ve been busy with family then caught a man flu that wrote me off for a week or so 😅 I’m also waiting for my polybushed mounts to turn up so I’m sorry to say I have no definitive date at the min.

Cheer pal, glad I’m entertaining enough for you but boring enough to send your daughter to sleep 😂

@@Drivers.Garage 🤣

Sorry it’s not something I’m familiar with. I don’t believe there’s an off the shelf solution for fitting one and do know hasport quote you have to use a K20 gearbox due to space constraints so don’t know if the auto box would be too big.

@@Drivers.Garage There is the k20a, which is from the accord, with the 5-speed automatic gearbox, a normal size, can I install it?

or at least adapt, do you think it is at least possible?

@@luisdomingues2237 anything is possible with enough time and money. I don’t think it would be worth it personally though.

Not up to date with 24s but I was referring to 20s in the video anyway.

But your comment in the video said k24 do not have dual vtec, I was correcting the info.

@@JohnDoe-mm6xg honestly can’t remember my train of thought back then but no worries, cheers for your info. I may of been referring to the k24s we get here in the UK. I don’t believe they have dual vtec but again. May be wrong.

Yeah the tsx k24a2 in the 04-08 tsx has the dual vtec. The newer k24z does not

The chassis rail needs modifying or the gearbox hits it. It’s in hasport instructions to do just that. I actually show it in the video too so guessing you commented before getting to that point.

I guess it must be different for eu version of the fit cause if you go to vtec academy (hasport) UA-cam channel they do not cut anything on the rails to get the engine and trans in. The only part the cut and mod is the radiator support to allow for the ac compressor.

@@JohnDoe-mm6xg I believe cut in the support for the AC is for the GE. The hasport GD instructions state the chassis rail needs the notch. The hasport instructions don’t mention the subframe notch which I’ve done as I believe that’s a RHD specific need. Without that the gearbox would be occupying the space the subframe needs.

Hope it helps buddy 👌🏻 Hopefully I’ll have another episode for you in the next week or two if I get some free time over the Easter weekend.

@@Drivers.Garage I look forward to it, I also live in South yorkshire in sheffield and was wondering the best place to get myself a K20 engine. Did you get yours from ebay, scrap yard etc? Have a great weekend.

Glad to help. If you have any questions feel free to ask away.

I just went to my local paint shop and give them the paint code (J45 for this blue) it was about half the price of ordering online I found.

I’ve heard some have clearance issues but didn’t think it affected non US cars so I’ll look into it cheers. I do plan on upgrading mine with the old school method of strips of plastic and window weld. See how that works before spending more money 😅

Great video ! Just preparing my jazz for k24. And wondering if the accord gearbox will fit into it. What about ecu ?can you make accord one works on this. ? It's my first engine swap and just wondering what parts I can be use of my rotten accord. Thanks for any information 😊

@@k24you a lot of the Americans make the TSX (similar to an accord) evu work but I believe it would need a k20 gearbox due to the dimensions of the gearbox itself. I know the hasport mounts are sold as either k20 with k20 gearbox of k24 with k20 gearbox so doubt they’d work. For me I would convert it over to an ep3 loom and just put an ep3 ECU on it. Not massively expensive in the grand scheme of things.

I completely agree with you, I do have a good one and no doubt she would agree ha. Cheers buddy. I’ll try and keep a good VLOG going with it all 👌🏻

Just good editing that 😂 cheers man 🙏🏻

Timing belt is a bit of a pig and hard to get at in places but apparently easier than it is in a Megane. Personally I just had the cambelt done when I had the engine out of the car.

Thank you. I put the front stands under the subframe bolts furthest forward and the rear ones under the support braces that sit just behind the pinch weld. Not sure if that’s right but doesn’t move or distort at all on mine.

I don’t believe so but it would make it substantially easier.

I’m 6’2”ish and the seat is lowered on the Jass brackets on the non lowering seat so the lowest version possible with OEM seats.

Cheers buddy, just off the shelf Pirellis I’m afraid. Just what the previous owner put on for daily driving. Terrible in the wet/cold so far I’ve discovered.

@@Drivers.Garage ahh, I really want to hear from someone that's tried the fable star rated 'rellis! Will be interested to hear how you go with these though! If I'm free on the 4th (it is the 4th right?) I'll pop up to Blyton.

@@mattcircuitdriver9084 I’ve heard mixed reviews on them so be intrested to know how they feel too. I have these and a set of stock wheels with NS2Rs on. See what weathers like on the day before deciding. Indeed it is the 4th, be good to see you if you can make it.

Cheers buddy, I really like how they look/feel. Yet to try it on track but loved the same wheel in the Clio. 100% the hardtop finished it off lovely now it’s black. Just need to work out how to fit in it with the top on now 😂

@@Drivers.Garage will you be going for a bucket or keeping the standard seats? And do you need a runner?

@@mattcircuitdriver9084 the plan is a fixed bucket yeah and it will probably end up fixed position to get as low as possible. As nice as the stock seats are I need to get a good 2” lower ideally. (It’s already on seat drop brackets too)

Cheers buddy can’t wait to get stuck in. Hopefully start the strip down tomorrow! (Weather dependent)

Don’t forget the 3 days of sun we call summer. They can fall anywhere between April and September though 😂

Right … bugger. Best order a set of rear pads in too then hadn’t I.

I was heavily influenced by the Circuit Driver UA-cam channel so blame them fairies 😂 It’s always good to have a stash…. Just in case ha. That’s strange, maybe down to ergonomics? I’ve actually ordered a 330 flat bottom to help me fit in better so we’ll soon find out!

@@Drivers.Garage 😂😂 bunch of balding hairdressers that lot!! Know what you mean about making room for legs and elbows mate, they could just do with being 10% bigger!!

You me both man 👌🏻

Need to get there before the competition don’t I!

Sold it to a bloke down south as his dedicated track car.

Bugger off I’m not building a supercup car!

At the tie of filming the top was just held in place with the factory front mount and rear Frankenstein bolts (from Jass) but now have the solid mounts in place (also from Jass via Bofi racing) Mk3s are different I’m afraid. They do come up on eBay/marketplace but not as cheap as earlier hard tops. I found mine on marketplace, threw an offer in and got lucky with a reasonable price. Most are £800-1100 from what I’ve seen now though.

Cheers buddy, the mx5 isn’t going to be a full build, or not short term anyway. The jazz on the other hand will be the ‘big’ build around family life and what not 👌🏻

I’m sad not seeing it on the drive 😢 but hopefully these two new projects will help ease the pain.

Cheers Matt, they’re ace little cars. They’re no eg/ek civic but for what they cost in comparison they’re great. Can’t wait to get stuck in to it!

@@Drivers.Garage definitely going down a Jazz / Fit rabbithole on YT now whilst I wrap Christmas presents! 😅 Do I remember rightly that they're really stiff chassis' relative to most Honda hatches?

@@mattcircuitdriver9084 there’s not a lot on UA-cam about them unfortunately. I struggle to get my fix 😂 Indeed they are! The fuel tank is mounted under the front seats for a lower rear floor so it’s incredibly stiff. Doesn’t share the double wishbone/trailing arm suspension of older Hondas but with minor tweaks they can handle very very well.

@@Drivers.Garage clever Honda!! Will follow your vids with interest mate, I’m convinced it will be fantastic!! You must take me out in it once it’s done! 🙌

@@mattcircuitdriver9084 of course man, be happy to 👌🏻

It controls the ECU so I like ECUtech

That is a steering rack spacer. Without it you would loose a little steering lock so wise to put it back in when changing the tie rods.

My vehicle has this part on the right side, but not on the left. I don't know if the previous owner didn't replace it. Will there be a problem if these parts are not available?

@@black.eagle.1903 honestly I’m not sure. I had both mine. I would assume you would have more steering angle on one side compared to the other.

I don’t know if I have the patience for it 😂

Can’t go wrong. They’ll probably be mapping my other car too 👌🏻

Just checked, you said MR2 or a 1.8t engined Clio. I did consider going down the clio kswap route but couldn’t justify the cost right now.

It will be once it’s all dialed in. Coming together slowly. Mine was mint until it was about a year and a week old then it just sticks all the time 🤦🏼‍♂️ need to replace it ideally.

Sorry I don’t. It was just a fuse box off eBay at the time. The listing isn’t there any more but there are others that will do the same job.

The lip is for the Clio 3 RS 197 only.

It sure is! Will be a hell of a car once it’s dialled in.