Відео

A Dragoon 2x12 with Greenback speakers, a Dragoon 2x12 with Creamback H-75 speakers

Yes I know…i have to improve the recording device…when I’ll have time & money I’ll do it…I work 10 hours/day so I never have time 😅

Direi….questa brbs 100 differisce peró da quella standard per varie cose custom che ho richiesto…ha molto più gain, ha più attacco sulle alte per via di una mod che ho fatto su suggerimento di Sebastiano e ha un ‘bright’ aggiuntivo che si attiva solo su crunch e lead e che se attivato dà un effetto simile ad avere un SD1 di fronte all’ampli…inoltre ha un master generale aggiuntivo che più che come un master agisce come un attenuatore di potenza…quindi hai suononi enormi pure col master generale appena aperto a volumi da bisbiglio…😉

No way..you are far from reality…

Yeah exactly..in the modern mode the sound is Rivera 100% (skid row slave to the grind period to be clear)…and yeah the amp is totally custom to my specs in materials and circuit..it has way more gain than regular Brbs 100, more power amp bass response than regular mode (depth cap is a different value than the one on the regular brbs 100, and yeah it has a function i wanted custom for me, an additional ‘bright switch’ which operates only on crunch and lead channels, and when activated it feels like a SD1 is put in front of the amp.. but it is not a diode clipping circuit…no diodes or transistor in this amp…pure valve circuit)

You have to know that BRBS is probably one of the best Marshall modders on this planet and a very high quality italian boutique amp maker

They are 2 Dragoons…I got them in Florence from their maker, Giniski…

You can order them online too

No but it is handmade, not machine made

I’ll give you details ASAP

I do not have it anymore…i switched to a SLO 100 of which I modded the overdrive ch. to make it a lot tighter

Yeah i did the mod so here it is: 1-change the coupling cap value between V2a and V2b from stock 22 nF to 2.2 nF. 2-change V2a cathode resistor bypass cap value from stock 1 uF to 0.47 uF. All this will cut a loooot of bass in the preamp giving clarity, attack and a lot of tightness. Lower the power tubes bias stock value (mine was arpund 35-36 ma per tube) to around 28 ma per tube (this tightens the sound in the power amp) Change the preamp phase inverter valve (the one near the power tubes) with a 12ax7 JJ. You’re done.

@@marcopanza1011thank you for the details. I would expect those changes on the first gain stage, but you chose the second stage of the od channel, can you explain?

@@jimsoprano711because in the SLO the valve that acts more on the overdrive channel gain structure is V2 composed by V2a and V2b (which is the cold clipper and so it does not have a cathode resistor bypass cap). So the mods on these gain stages have more effect for the overdrive. V1a is in common with the Normal channel so if you make mods on it you change the Normal channel sound too and I did not want to mod the normal channel, only the overdrive.

@@jimsoprano711you can also change the type of gain in the overdrive channel by changing the value of the cold clipper which stock is 39K. If you decrease its value you bias the V2b triode hotter and the sound becames less aggressive… Marshall uses a 10 K value for example…but i did not want tp change it cause the 39K cold clipper gives the SLO trademark sound

If you look at my recent videos on my profile you have a description of the mod

With the stock amp it’s impossible…too fuzz on low end indipendently from settings…I mean stock it is a great amp, one of the best, but you can not achieve hard rock/heavy metal type of tightness without modding it

You have to mod the value of the coupling cap between V2a and V2b from 22 nF to 2.2 nF and the value of the V2a cathode resistor bypass cap from 1 uF to 0.47 uF. Then you have to lower the bias of power tubes to around 28 ma per tube. Then you have to put a 12ax7 JJ in the phase inverter position in the preamp (it’s the preamp valve close to the power tubes). This is the mod.

Yeah..noise gate must go always in the effects loop…

Yes I did but i do not have this amp anymore…I also modded the bright cap value on the first channel (not the Normal channel) changing type of capacitor and raising values and this also changes the tone and increases gain a lot…of course i used an attenuator, here the amp was set with treble channel volume at 10 almost…impossible without the attenuator

@marcopanza1011 thanks for the response! This sounds super close to a 1987x which is really the sound I'm going for. Thanks again!

Yes it is a high gain amp with two gain modes. Channel 1- less gain (crunch) and channel two - lots of gain (lead)….it is a mix between a vox and a marshall jcm 800…50w but monster volume…sounds great….

5751

It’s incredible how tastes are different…for me the channel two has not enough gain on its own even on 10 and I had to add a boost…my new BRBS has way moooore gain on. Lead channel with gain at half…without ay boost…the kind of gain I expected from the VH2…which I still have…

Also Try a 12ax7 JJ on V1…it does not reduce gain but it sounds much better imho…also put a 12ax7 Sovtek LPS on the phase inverter slot…imho much better

You could also put a 7025 12ax7 TAD in V1 which has the lowest microphonics and less gain than the normal 12ax7 TAD

You have to try…ears are different…an expensive trip sadly

Thx

Cazzo Pensavo fossi americano invece sei italiano come me… ho scoperto ora il tuo canale… tanta roba 👌🏼

@@EddieZep 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😅😅

@@EddieZepeh è il vantaggio di farsi fare una testata da zero su proprie specifiche…suono Bogner Ecstasy sul modo british e suono Slo 100/5150 sul modo modern…poi il Seba di BRBS di Ferrara è un dio a lavorare

Grazie troppo gentile…in realtà la finalità era dimostrare la resa della BRBS 100, ampli boutique valvolare fattomi fare totalmente custom da BRBS AMPLIFICATION di Ferrara in ogni particolare, sui suoni metal…😊

In che senso? Non l’ho proprio capita

Non capisco proprio in cosa consisterebbe l’Americanata visto che si tratta di una testata italiana boutique (qualità tipo Mezzabarba) e costruita handmade da zero su mie specifiche sia come materiali, estetica e circuito (che è diverso dalla BRBS 100 standard)…quindi non capisco in cosa sia Americanata… Davvero senza polemica non ho capito il commento…

@@marcopanza1011 zio calmo era un complimento, apparte che gli iron maiden sono britannici,ma gli americani sono quelli prediletti ad usare qualsiasi tipo di chitarra elettrica ,non capisco perché a voi italiani dia fastidio essere attribuiti agli statunitensi bah,poi il tuo inglese di pronuncia americana aveva un accento italiano quindi mischiata con la traccia dava il senso al mio commento

@@velenoro2077 scusa senza polemica, a parte che ero calmissimo e non avevo proprio capito il senso del commento, ma sei fuori strada…a me non dà alcun fastidio essere accostato a americani così come a inglesi e sinceramente non essendo un esame di inglese della pronuncia me ne sono fregato, manci ci ho pensato…serviva solo a far capire anche a non italiani quello che dicevo, visto che molti iscritti non sono italiani e parecchi sono americani….poi pure gli italiani e gli inglesi usano qualsiasi tipo di chitarra….non credo ci siano limiti per la nazionalità in tal senso…ci manca solo che mi debba preoccupare pure di quale delle mie chitarre stia usando…😂😂😂…comunque la mia risposta al tuo commento non era polemica e lo avevo già precisato più sopra…

@@marcopanza1011 avevo notato btw bel video!

Peach Guitars in UK has them.

Of course, but it is not a VH cover but a little demo of how BadCat Lynx goes clise to brown sound without any pedal and at human volumes…😊

1978

@@marcopanza1011 Ahh, I see it now. The font is a little confusing. The 7 looks like a cliffed 1

Not the right amp…this amp is jcm800 on steroids… it does not have the right sound for Pantera

I do it on purpose so you can hear the different sound with the different amps with those riffs…i know a lot songs but that is not the scope of my videos

Yes it is possible…under the pickups there are little sponges that hold the pickups in position…you can screw the pickup down without damages…i have done it…also I inverted the two pickups…i put the alnico II pro on the bridge and the full shred in the neck and for me it sounds way way better …you can hear it in the video…i also put a 330 pf ceramic cap for treble bleed instead of the original 220 pf and changed the tone capacitor from the original cheap one 0,022uF to a mallory mylar 0,033 uF …this increases attack on strings and mids response tightening the bass….i also have re done all the solders on pots and switch beacuse they were pretty bad and changed the cables between volume pot and tone pot and volume pot and ouput jack wuth better quality ones and re done the solders. I also shielded even the pickups cavities with copper.

Hear the results: ua-cam.com/video/JpplREz8cpc/v-deo.html

@@marcopanza1011 I tried it and they do indeed move! Although the screws were a bit tighter than my PRS and Strat's were. But it went well! I just wanted the neck pickup lowered a bit because I really dig into the strings lol. Thank you sir.

Yes i did it myself…this new revisions are pcb and fixed bias…sound is really dynamic and awesome…tons of gain already on the crunch channel and with the gain set at 2-3/10

But change the first three preamp tubes…stock ruby JJ are very average sounding…phase inverter is a 12ax7 EH and is of good quality…

@@marcopanza1011 So, there is a bias adjustment? I know fixed can also be fixed, yet adjustable..

@@doug441 cathode bias cannot be adjusted, fixed bias means there is a bias pot and you can set it

@@marcopanza1011 So it IS adjustable? Mesas are fixed bias but non-adjustable. I'm looking to get a Lynx, want to be able to upgrade the tubes.

It’s just different…high gain does not mean metal…this amp is a rock/ hard rock and classic metal amp..not a modern thrash metal amp..,it is like a vintage plexi maxed out but without the absurd volume and noise and with a lot more gain but a bit more loose on bass than the 5150…it is a very different amp….however this evening I experented with power tubes bias and i lowered the bias cause stock it was too high (same as it happened with my 5150 III) and the sound has improved a lot becoming a lot more defined and tight on bass…

Duncan Full Shred ponte e Duncan Alnico Pro II manico

Thx

Ciao

facebook.com/groups/192384442600144/permalink/775091327662783/

Link alle mods che ho postato su facebook

Just subscribe on facebook in the EVH 5150 and Iconic group and search Marco Hell Panza posts (which is me)…there you will find all the mods with detailed description and some pictures…and yes my goal was to get it to sound like an SLO…less noise, a bit less gain on red channel but muuuch more open, much more tight and dynamic and articulated, great clean sounds and much more low punch and definition but very very tight…

And of course much more gain and attack on blue channel

I even made it more tight now with the last update to the mods…changing the bypass cal on V3-A preamp valve cathode resistor with a electrolitic cap 1uF 50V …this is the value used on the SLO 100 and cuts unwanted bass frequencies like putting a Boss SD1 in front of the amp 😊

A video after the last update on mods: ua-cam.com/users/shortsSlI2qYburA8?feature=share

@@marcopanza1011 Yeah, this DEFINITELY has that tight, percussive, mid-focused SLO tone. I could listen to that all day. And, the cool part is that, most of these mods only involve a couple parts. People just don't know where they go, or how to go about doing it (even if you're good with a soldering iron). Sounds like you're not located in the U.S., or I'd send you every amp I own to do these modes...LOL! It's a pure joy to listen to. I do have one request. In the description of your videos, can you put exactly what you did, so we can send our amps to someone here in the states, and tell them what to do? That would be a big help. I've got a Friedman Dirty Shirley now, but I'm thinking of picking up a Runt 50, and doing that very mod. I'm not a big fan of the 5150 clean channel (which is very important to me), or I'd pick up one of those, as well. Well done, Marco!

Grazie

facebook.com/groups/1666017740393127/permalink/3433812820280268/

facebook.com/groups/1666017740393127/permalink/3439513376376879/

Le modifiche sono da fare tutte e 4 per avere il risultato del video; se sai come lavorare in un ampli col saldatore ok altrimenti meglio farle fare a un tecnico…occhio perchè anche da spento un amplificatore contiene voltaggi da 500V che uccidono…quindi se non sai come mettere le mani non rischiare

Le modifiche le ho ideate io