Відео

Thanks! Out of curiosity, how do you typically prefer to transport your machines?

​@@gaugeblockjenga Hmm, generally, i prefer to arrange a heavy truck with a crane - have the machine stuck through with steel rods if holes for such lifting method are cast in, otherwise the machine is simply strapped from underneath and the lifting ropes are secured around the perimeter with a ratchet strap or 5 and blocks of wood to keep the ropes apart - depending on the size of the machine and their form - as to prevent any rope sliding or similar nightmares... Therefrom a machine is gently lifted upright into the air and transferred onto the truck where they get secured with 5-10 ratchet straps... I follow the truck from behind to keep an eye on the machine(the driver has been at my place around 10 times, so he knows the drill) and i make sure that no moron tailgates the truck... When the truck arrives at my place, it anchors with 2 hydraulic rods onto the driveway and the machine is as when lifted initially, lifted again, swung over and lowered onto a euro pallet which is pallet-jack lifted and driven into the shop... If i can`t take the machine off the pallet at the moment for whatever reason, i chuck slabs of steel or aluminium under the wood planks of the pallet to provide proper support in case the machine collapses the pallet at some point(which has happened to me, but the blocks did their job and i didn`t even notice it until i tried to kick a block flush with the side of the pallet one day)... I also leave my pallet-jack parked underneath the most compact and heaviest machine on a pallet(just in case)... Tho, i have had rented a van on few occasions and drove it to pick up a machine and have one loaded into the back if the machine is under 1000kg... That`s how my deckel s1 and schau22 rolled in... In that case, the van is unloaded by the neighbour with a tractor with hydraulic forklift attachment... Needless to say, the machine gets loaded into the van on a pallet to make the ordeal easier to execute... I also drove a few of them in my car(baby mill and baby lathe), those got unloaded by hand... Tho, moving shop when i finish building a new one will be a massive bitch, as my driveway allows for unloading of machines, but not for loading them on the truck.. The slope means that the machine can`t be sat on the truck, and when they are unloaded, one lifting loop is left around the lowest part of the machine and i pull on the machine via a ``pulley`` system to keep her sitting flat while the driver releases the ratchet straps holding the machine in place(of course the crane holds them up too), but otherwise, the machine would slide down the truck the moment the straps are loose, only getting stopped by the yanking on the crane - which could damage the lifting ropes or cause the machine to slip out and fall over at that angle... I will definitely ask the driver is he okay with me filming that day, and we will cover the veh. reg. plates... That will be a damn long day, and a long video, but it should be a good example of how to lift 10 vastly different machines that range from 400kg up to 3200kg... The others i will manage to take apart and drive them over by car... It will be a 200m long drive, as the new shop will still be in my yard, but it poses a major problem for every tall machine... Long lathes have less issues with it, as they resist the sliding or tipping over by being down low and by having a large footprint, but the ELB, the S22 and the Charmilles will be a terror to manage... S22 less so, but she`s tall when compared to her footprint... The ELB is quite bulky, but damn tall, and the Charmilles is damn tall and has a damn small footprint, so that one is the worst of the offenders... Jesus, this was a long one huh...

@@camillosteuss Haha, no worries! You're very thorough! The new shop sounds like it will be quite worth it.

Great to see you back and I had no idea you started posting vids! Sub'd!

​@@gaugeblockjenga Oh, i never left, i just got 0 notifications... UA-cam service in that regard is quite bad in recent times... That and randomly losing channels from my subscription list without ever unsubbing myself... Some hardcore bullshit right there, having to keep track of what should be not subject to random changes... Regarding posting, yeah, the Rotary SMP got me to finally get my lazy ass to start making videos... I just hit a nasty roadblock with massively overcrowding my shop and being unable to build a new one at the moment... I have a full set of plans for the shop, but just the foundation of 135 cubic meters of reinforced concrete is an impediment enough, let alone the other like 9/10ths of what a shop implies... Tho, i have a few vids in the making, i just need to finish them, or the projects the videos are supposed to be about... Winter murders my motivation to live so shit takes extra long... The tapered gib being retained on both sides is one of the best implementations of the design... Just spectacular! All the best and good luck with your projects! p.s. thanks for the sub!

I had to look up what you meant and I'm glad I did!

Thanks for swinging by! I hear you can 3D print them (and better yet add a bushing). In theory, if you get something wrong you can easily try again!

Thank you! So far I've only removed the strainer and glanced in because I had no indication that anything was wrong. I've thought about removing the sealed cover but ended up settling for an oil change. You're right though, I should do a bit more careful inspection!

Thank you very much! MC Prepbond primer all over; Total Boat Bilge inside, SuperSpec (P22) color and KBS Diamond clear. In hindsight I should have gone with a 2-part color but otherwise I am very pleased!

Thank you very much!

Thank you! I used Wasser MC Prepbond primer all over (very pleased); Total Boat Bilge inside (very pleased), SuperSpec-P22 color (meh on hardness but pretty durable) and KBS Diamond clear (pleased). I probably should have gone with a 2-part color to ensure hardness but overall I am very pleased!

@@gaugeblockjengaThanks!

I tend experiment quite a bit so that each subassembly was probably done a little differently. However, I think I've started converging on a rhythm with my recent parts. For example the sight glass retainers I did a scrub with kerosene, paint scraping (if applicable), 70 grit AlumOxide blast, hand file to knock down any super distorted parts, wire wheel (generic 6" diam, 0.012" wire), then a white rouge buff on a generic 8" diam wheel. I made an attempt to powder coat them (instead of the wire & buff) with chrome powder but either due to my cheap gear or lack of experience; I wasn't able to get a good result. Thanks for the question!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Glad you liked it!

Thank you! I'd be happy to answer! 1 & 2. Yes, I think when it was all said an done there were at least two cycles of prime-bondo-prime just about everywhere visible from the outside. I didn't have high hopes for spraying the primer at first and so I brushed/rolled. I ended up figuring out the trick to modifying the Harbor Freight gun after and in hindsight I think I could have just sprayed more than I actually did. I'm just a newbie feeling things out. 3. All the paint I used was single, but also in hindsight I think 2K is the better option. In what little experience I have with 2K, "it just works". I think I may have been intimidated by the cost, but I also bought cheaper topcoat paint and tested - found lacking - and ended up not using it. Had I just bought the right stuff to begin with.... 4 & 5) For the primer I used MC-Prepbond by Wasser. Fantastic stuff! It's a moisture cure urethane. Adheres super well, forgiving, and hard. I rolled the dice on McMaster, paying a pretty penny, and knowing nothing else than what the datasheet read - totally paid off. The inside of the lathe was TotalBilge. I figured bilge paint would work well in an oily environment. I hope to plug all the leaks and minimize it's exposure anyway. The topcoat outside is BM Superspec Urethane Alkyd Enamel. I thought that an alykd would be forgiving for brushing (again, I didnt realize I could spray on a budget when I bought it). I'm glad I could help and thanks for swinging by!

Thanks! That's exactly where I got the idea from. Lone guy in a shop - need to default to old wisdom!

Thank you! I used some Testors enamel for the tags and sprayed a rattle can of Rustoleum automotive clear over them. It took quite a while but it ended up curing good and hard. I find that you need to multiply all the cure time estimates by 10... luckily i'm not in any hurry!

Thanks! The little ones are always eager to be silly; perhaps they'll get a kick out of watching themselves in these when they're older. I do wonder if these may be a bit more special if I did some talking... I digress. I think I will be driven crazy - but it'll all be in good fun!

Thank you!

I genuinely appreciate your comment! Thank you very much!

@@gaugeblockjenga I just picked up a little south bend lathe. Same model as yours but a little earlier. Power feed lead screw is seized up in the housing and key was sheared. Your videos will be a great asset to tear down. Thanks

@@ksfisher1990 That's outstanding. I really appreciate knowing these videos are helpful!

Thank you!

I have one! I'll try to make conspicuous use of it in a future video for you ;)

That's wonderful!

That's very kind of you. Thank you for watching and your feedback!

Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!

Thank you! On bare metal I used Rustoleum automotive etching primer, followed by Rustoleum automotive filling primer, followed by Rustoleum Pro Enamel (Dark Grey). I clear coated outward facing surfaces with Spray Max 2K High Gloss because I wasn't totally satisfied with how hard the enamel turned out. I'm not a Rustoleum fan boy; I simply don't know much about paint and went with a big-box rattle can.

Thank you!

I was quite pleased with how it worked! However, I did have to grind a more conventional single-sided chisel grind for it to actually be effective. It certainly went faster than the brazed insert! Thank you for the comment!

It's hard to estimate how long it took because I only worked an hour or so on some evenings. Perhaps in the ballpark of 30-50 hours. If there wasn't the petroleum-based (akin to an underbody coating) on the body interior it would have easily been half that time. Good luck! I hope all goes well for you!

That's a great point that I did consider! However, I feared with a method like that I would never quite mask well enough, would never quite dry absolutely, and it would result in rust in places I dreaded. Had I pulled the bed and headstock, I would have most likely done what you suggest but I wanted to preserve the factory alignment. All things considered I just wanted to go the careful but slow approach this time around. If my next machine looks like it will be this painstaking I will almost certainly try to water blast. Thanks!

Hi! I put a link to the instructions down below in the description :)

I think if space weren't so tight in my garage I would love to nab a cheap 3P motor and wire up my own rotary phase converter and remain on OG. I think a decent compromise may be running the generator off of a VFD at fixed 60Hz and suffering the power loss associated with it. I could see why that may not be a good solution for tube drive. I could even go so far as to wire the original AC contactor to the VFD input so that the motor starter would always have power and MG Stop button would kill the spindle. Starting would go something like: Press MG start to power VFD, Press run on VFD, then operate machine normally. I suspect that the torque curve will still be fairly flat for a properly sized VFD. I don't have much VFD experience so feel free to put me in my place! I do have a very small VFD on hand I was thinking of installing on the surface grinder. Perhaps I can get my feet wet with that project and learn a thing or two before moving over to the 10EE. Thank you for sharing your experiences!

@@gaugeblockjenga if the MG runs all the time regardless of the spindle, then a VFD may be a great option. The cheap Amazon chinese ones are the way to go ! Get one rated 10-20% higher than your needs.

@@manmachinemake3708 Understood. Thanks you for the advice! It looks as though the 7.5kW class VFD may be the ticket. A 5kW may be cutting it a bit close.

@@gaugeblockjenga yeah, go big as that gives you a decent headroom vs cost. I used the 3hp (2.2kW ???) On my 2 HP bridgeport and it never even warmed up. That is now powering my 1920's Moloch 100# power hammer.

Tasted terrible! 0/5 stars.

You have quite a wonderful shop setup! The cylindrical griding attachment would be pretty fun to tinker with :)

Obrigada!

@@gaugeblockjenga .

Haha! I think those were leftovers from my kiddos playset buildup. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Я думал отправить детали на шлифовку, но это было бы непомерно дорого.(I thought of sending the parts out to be ground but it would have been cost prohibitive.)

@@gaugeblockjenga спасибо за ответ

Haha, I could definitely hear the AvE in your message. I'm a big fan myself. I was indeed surprised to see how much space there was when all was said and done. I could even climb inside to do some cleaning; all the while imagining how well it might serve as a tornado shelter :). Thanks again for swinging by!