Відео

@@hiya8437 Hello - there's many fasteners involved in this job, I recommend you watch the video series and do some careful planning before you start this job- I can only help you with questions if you are more specific with your problem 👍

@@eoinosullivan2636 Hello, thanks for checking in - I'll be working on this idea more in the future it seems people are curious

@@jahgyde1 Hello, yes passenger side at the far rear of the engine - if you have an OM651 engine , north south orientation in the engine bay

So in order to see the air box has to be removed?

@@jahgyde1 Hello , that is right 👍- if you have any questions about the EGR please check out my playlist where I do the EGR removal - You should feel confident working on the engine and removing the airbox with other engine components before you move forward. This is a job you just need time and patience for 😕 unfortunately

@@runningon8883 Greatly appreciated

@@macdinvest this is the inline 4 - om651 2.1L diesel

@@Benrainbowman I think there's a reason why you do or don't do it, I'll do some further reading - ehh I'm still learning myself 😎

@@runningon8883sounds great. Look forward to more of your videos.

@@pirateproductions3472 I think it is worth a try, the most difficult part of the job was finding space for the cans in the engine bay 👍

@@pirateproductions3472 👍 nice, if you get stuck on something just msg in. It about a full days work, or a good weekend job 👍

Thank you .

@@Infj-62 feel free to ask questions, haha it's going to be a tough job if you don't 😜 yes the whole job has access problems I literally did climb into the engine bay for some of the fasteners

@@runningon8883 LOL. There seems to be a large bracket covering the oil cooler that the mixing chamber was connected to which prevents access to that lower nut but can't see how that bracket comes off!!

@@Infj-62 the spray is safe for the combustion chamber - it took a few cranks to start but the engine burnt off the residue

@@runningon8883 Thanks a lot for reply sir but also the clumps of soot going in there could also be a concern could it not?

@@Infj-62 yes, your correct 👍that's a risk I was willing to take, considering the engine only had 220,000 KMs and the intake looked sound from my inspection I did that - if you feel uneasy about it please skip the step

@@runningon8883 Ah ok fair enough, it's something that should be done if people have gone to the trouble of removing manifold in my opinion for best performance, thanks again for reply and for the series of videos, they are some of the best I've seen

@@JGras yes there is a Lead ring gasket that , heats up and makes it seal between the pipes, remember that you need to respect the torque wrench settings and use fresh bolts when reassembly takes place, because of the inherent heat in the system - exhaust leaks are usually always a gasket replacement job

@@timdavies9494 Hello if you Goto your local MB dealer they will certainly be able to print it out for you, I'll try figure out how to do a PDF share myself

@@timdavies9494 send your email address I should be able to compile a PDF from the pictures I have

@@runningon8883 Hi! I just want to let you know I did send my email in a comment - but came back now to check & realised that youtube must have deleted that comment (apparently youtube does not allow email addresses)!

@@timdavies9494 I'll try figure out how to do an online PDF share , my email is running...on888@gmail.com (remove the full stops )

@@vladmoloce8915 you can clean up the EGR valve with a long brush and some quality parts Clean spray, but it's not thorough enough - you really just have to take it apart 😭😭😭 it's a long weekend job and I wanted to take short cuts also... There's no way around it sorry 😔

@@Gtisnowy88 oh yes, haha that's the cheapest plastic link arm - it controls how much the EGR opens up and bypasses the EGR cooler chamber, the only way around it is make a stronger version yourself from aluminium or steel sheet etc

@runningon8883 wow, that was a rapid reply!!! Yeah that's what I was thinking. Not sure how to do it yet though, I've just bought another new part again. Why does it keep snapping though, what a poor design !!

@@Gtisnowy88 Hello I can help you out if you're more specific to the part, or even a timestamp on a video might help me out

@@eQuASiANXane thanks 👍 before shooting the video I did a big clean up of the engine bay,

I can't remember what overflow tube was in there, but yes you can do it this way if you like, The important part is that you match the colour of the overflow tube if replacing it

Mb will have them, but that part is pretty run of the mill, you should find it at any auto parts store

Yes - it takes time to "Re-Prime" the fuel lines with fuel after you remove them, from doing the job on the engine It took me a few cranks to get my engine started also

Yes - Its funny kind of clamp you can remove it: The Pipe - it runs from underneath the throttle body up-to the Intercooler-Outlet.... You need to get right under the car to remove the pipe and it only comes out and goes back in one way, it takes a lot of wriggling around

@@runningon8883 I managed to finish this job. But now I get CAN bus fault 9100. Starter motor goes but Engine wont start. Like no fuel goes in i believe. Did you have to do anything else?

Hey GTISnowy - Yeah the OM651 Engine is a bit of an All-rounder that MB produced to put in a number of platforms, its a very versatile engine - Maybe they engineered it that way to save money,.... Not having to make a seperate engine for every different car they make in their product line?? - Check out this PDF (the link is below also) - It explains what im talking about - "The Mercedes-Benz OM 651 Four-Cylinder Diesel Engine for Worldwide Use" www.aachener-kolloquium.de/images/tagungsunterlagen/2013_22._ACK/A1.1_Lückert_Daimler.pdf From what ive seen the OM651 Block is basically identical across models, and its the bolt on parts that change between models, but some also are interchangeable or VERY similar.... I always recommend you get the HAYNES service manual for your car, and - Then use it with the online Videos for a Reference to guide you through the job - If you have more questions just ask, Cheers

Brilliant thankyou, I'm going to give it a go tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on, thanks for the reply !

thanks - if youhave any questions just ask. - - its an easy job, just takes a bit of messing about under the car

its right in-under the EGR and you need a long skinny 1/4 socket to access them - to remove mine, i had to climb up into the engine bay, any lie on top of the engine face down with the whole thing in my face,

Hello Michael - I do not have this feature on my OM651 Engine; I think these swirl Flaps are called (Intake Port Shut Off) This engine has a PDF by MB, It might have the information you are after (Page 30 & 31) of the document diysprinter.co.uk/reference/Introduction_OM_651.pdf Or google ( introduction_OM651 pdf ) To find the PDF document; it seems like some kind of Air regulation feature you can try researching it further intake port shutoff (EKAS)

Hello - with removing the EGR, the radiator is drained prior to removing any components of the inlet manifold and EGR system - you need to drain the coolant and put it aside before attempting this job 👌 once the parts are reassembled you just refill the coolant via the overflow tank and bleed the air from the system by starting the car, letting it idle and recirculating the coolant

@@runningon8883 OK, thanks.

​@@cransaftvalve734 remember when you are bleeding air from the cooling system - open up the heater circuit to maximum in the cockpit, if you have any questions just post 👍

@@runningon8883 OK, I will do. Thanks again.

Hello Spartacus - if the engine light is flashing, the best way to find what is going wrong is to use an OBD2 scanner, if you don't want to buy one, you can sometimes borrow one or rent one for a while... Without knowing the details I can't help much more, but the engine light is flashing to try and alert you something isn't right

Hello Freeman - it's a funny tool you can make your self from an Allan key socket and long skinny 1/4 inch extension bar....the socket size is 6mm? Or 8mm ? Or by using one of those new style Allan Key T-Wrenches because you need a long shaft length to get to the plug.....You can try removing the plug with a normal Allan Key but it's difficult and you need leverage.... Be FK careful with removing it because the plug really wants to cross thread itself and round off the socket hole when you apply pressure too it, if this happens you are going to have to drill it out .... A FKn nightmare so be careful...the torque plug is single use so get a fresh plug from MB once you remove the old one it's about $9

@@runningon8883 Thank you. I am newbie to Sprinter. What MB shop you recommend for buying parts and blue oil in Australia. I just got socket 32 for turning the engine.

@@afreeman9852 Hello Freeman - for any MB parts you can just Goto a local MB dealership - If you want to do any service work yourself, let them know what you are interested In doing and sometimes they will put a kit together with the parts and gaskets you need - I've never had problems dealing with MB here in Adelaide - if you have any questions about the oil change job just post a message

Thank you. @@runningon8883

It will run for ever 🥊

Hahah awesome to hear. I have 220000km on mine. Bought it new 2016 single turbski

Hello - you can't remove the code until the underlying problems fixed, 😕 it sounds cheesy but MB are doing it to try help you out.... That said I replaced the sensor like in the video and Cleaned up the DPF hardlines, I also replaced the vacuum lines that are associated with the turbo boost control, it's a black box on the intake side of the engine its about the size of two clenched fists with 4-5 small hoses coming off it - tbh I might just make a video to help locate it Etc, after the parts are replaced you need a OBD2 scanner that has code clearance capabilities to wipe it off the ECU

@@runningon8883 awesome even if you could take a photo I'd appreciate it heaps! Because it sounds like the same issue

@@jamiecooper222 here is another guys UA-cam video with the Same engine- look at about 0:35s into the video ua-cam.com/video/ABOlaAf_ldc/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared He called it the vacuum cannister - it's also called a vacuum reservoir, or you can try googling ' om651 vacuum reservoir ' for a image of the system - tbh it was a fluke that this fixed the issue good luck with the job 😁

Thanks I want to make more in the future when I get time 😁

Hello - you can block or remove the EGR, but it is illegal to do this -- I'm hesitant to put a video on the internet how to do something illegal, but I feel your pain 😭.... Fun fact: my van was purchased from the government as an ex-ambulance and I was surprised to see it had the AdBlue deleted from the engine bay

@@runningon8883 thanks for your reply but I have already deleted the dpF now I need to block the egr I'm getting heavy smoke

@@AssamKhodadin it sounds like something else bad is going on with your engine - ehhh you can experiment with blocking and disabling the emissions systems, but from what you are telling me already it sounds like it's an engine issue or the tuning, a good running diesel shouldn't be smokey 👊

This makes me so happy 😁 you kinda "levelled up" by doing this job , thanks for the feedback I would have loved to see you turn the key for the first time after you put it back together 😀

Hello, it seems like you have a keen spirit and the mechanical knowledge - I'd definitely recommend that you got the Haynes manual for your model van, it will show you the easiest route and you also get a handy free online subscription.... ehhh the Haynes manual just gave me a second perspective or set of eyes on how to do the job, hopefully it helps you also??

No problem, GL with the build 😁 you are very brave tackling the job like you did hah

I got the feeling it's illegal here in Australia to do that 🥴 but yes it's a good idea 💡

Ehhhh a broken bolt 🔩 that's a headache - just Don't strip the thread in the engine block 😭 be patient move slowly

Sorry to nag, if you don't replace the bolt but replace the manifold gasket - the may not be enough to create a new Seal between the exhaust manifold and engine block, so you may have to do the job again all over - I reckon try to carefully fix that bolt and then renew the gasket 🤜 GL with the job

@@runningon8883 never say sorry for good advice :) Thank you very much for the kind reply. I will replace all bolts + nuts + seals (as shown in your videos). The only thing I am unsure of is, if i should let my dpf burn out/clean by a company (2014 Sprinter, OM651, 290k km) I will check the dpf mounting brackets for cracks (cause they apperently crack often) and check the flexhose/flex adapters between turbo-dpf aswell as dpf-exhaust for cracks.

@@watzlaf33 if you want to save some money, you can do a quick flush Of The DPF when you are doing the manifold gasket job, because you will have to remove the turbocharger to get to the exhaust manifold - this will expose the large inlet mouth of the DPF - you can very easily squirt DPF cleaner right into the mouth of the DPF Barrel , liqui-moly do a great 2 part DPF cleaning product, it's in 2 seperate bottles, you're going to have to buy both , but it'll get you good results for around $100AUD it cost me

I replaced the DPF sensor and also the vacuum lines that run to the turbocharger and other assorted things the vacuum box is located on my engine in front of the EGR cooler, there's 4 lines AFAIK - I still have no idea specifically what the code means

​@@runningon8883Have you also had the P2BAC error code? Ill be replacing the sensor and clearing the lines as you suggested, hopefully it will sort this out. Its a crusher for me as I cant do big trips as the limp mode keep on getting triggered.

​@@thereservedarmadillo yes you need a OBDII scanner that has the functional capacity to clear the code, even after you replace the sensors and vacuum lines, the code will not clear it self 😭

@@runningon8883 yea mate, got the scanner and can clear the codes which stops the engine light activating. But only stays off till the next time it triggers on the motorway. I'll keep you posted post repair. Will be interesting as if this doesn't fix it then I'll be getting a vacuum tester and should be able to work back to the fault. Classic that I get the code that isn't specific.

Hey! Did you guys figure out what this P2BAC code was due to? Have the same issue on my 2011 Sprinter and have no idea where it comes from! Thanks

Yes, it seems like a jungle when you look at the motor, but the design is actually quite serviceable - leave about 6-8hrs for the job

Hello Artan, The full EGR/ Intake Removal is around 3-4 Hrs with the right tools and you dont break anything, likewise the ReAssembly is around 3-4Hrs if you clean up all the parts and Re-Assemble with correct torque settings. Its a full days work - Now i have done the job a few times, i think i could do it in about 6 hours flat haha

This is called an, oil catch can???

@@runningon8883 Yes and no!. The vast majority of oil catch cans, have an inlet and outlet and no separation media for air/oil mixture to pass through. A properly designed unit has a serviceable filter, which ensures only clean air exits

Ok I'm going to look into it, because the inlet was a total mess for me, 🤣 thanks for the tip 👍👍

@@runningon8883 Curious to see how your engine performed after cleaning, if you looked into an oil separator and if so, did it work?

@@eoinosullivan2636 yes I'm glad you're reminding me 😎😎 I did the intake clean job and have also fitted two pro-vent cans in series.... As an experiment to see how much soot?? I can catch?? I have been trying to make a video but life is getting in the way, I really must make a video describing the new pro-vent install on my om651 engine