Відео

CTC9 is a very nice set. I too have one nice wood cabinet about the same size as the 7 shown here but a bit taller for the speaker on the bottom.

thank you for your kind words!!

glad it helps!

curious why? it's the stock alt, with the OE wiring. Oh never mind, if he is upgrading the alt then yes could up grade the wires as well.

roger that. Plan to pull harness off, finish up this week. Will remove the unused stuff, add the knock lead (but leave un terminated until you or I get one in to see how long it should be.

IIRC mine was all encased in a potting epoxy. will take another look. Glad you got yours going!

on it!

its pretty low like 2 ohms IIRC, will check and get back to you when I know for sure.

2.4 check two different batches both 2.4 ohms.

@@davewm9589 thanks Dave appreciate it

yes you have it right. only things that stay live all the time is the headlight, emergency flashers and maybe the horn. they are always live iirc the ACC should be things like the fan/radio, no efi or ign. lock will make the door buzzer operate unless you pull the key out (and lock the steering if you turn the wheel)

@@davewm9589 Thanks Dave appreciate it.

coming along. Got some gasket material to play with on the IAC, got the fuel pump connector all done, and tubing to finish off the return circuit. Will try it with the harness to see if it idles with the stock setup, hook up the IAC electrically but leave it unattached to see if it PWM's. Going to use a 20ohm resistor to limit current since I think the ford IAC was designed for a 5v signal (being safe anyway). This will go to the un used pin but will add it to your harness if it works. I am going to dig in your stash and see if I can find the OE IAC and get a ohm reading on the coil to be sure. Can try hooking it up and seeing what current it pulls as well for a verification.

yep only one, its ok but a bit janky on how i had to get it in he jug. If you have any 12v auto bats with post i could use that too. working on the switch harness now. just adding some ring terminals to make hook up easier to post clamps.

was pretty easy with the plastic spacers. Will look thru the stash for the pump iirc there was one. should be fun with the vari FPR, could even disconnect the O2, defaults to open loop, then use the wide band sensor to adj fuel pressure.

was looking at water to air intercoolers, easier to deal with size wise...

I do not recall scope setup, but it looked like it was a positive going square wave on the video. Main thing I was looking for was a signal of any kind that was intermittent.

@@davewm9589 ok I’ll check it out thanks for all the help

They are remaned bosch injectors. They are for mid 90s GM super charged cars 307cc high impedance injectors. The plan is to use the 300zx turbo harness and ECU. The stock 300zx injectors are 260cc, but have a return causing other issues to use on the L6. Others have used these injectors on this type of setup.

@@JSMZeez got it, very cool

not really, best thing would be for you to make a video of the issue.

ah so that is why I see the 4 pattern. Going to install now, and will get the new harness on the table ready to remove the covering. I am planning on leaving the PR intact so it can up the fuel pressure on a hot restart, not really needed, but easy to add so you have the option of using it.

having some leak issues around the injectors (air leaks) where they plug into the head. VERY critical on exactly how the stab in, I tiny deviation in angle (due to the rail mounts) results in air leaks. I think the best approach would be to use the reg injector mounts to either hold the rail (like a large u shaped piece maybe 3 across).

or just mount to the head with the reg holders. Have you read anywhere else about vacuum leaks using the rail?

hope it goes well for you.

ouch! it said...

I assume its a carburetor style vs EFI. If so you need to make sure you have spark (see if it runs on starter fluid) if so prob just junk in the fuel clogging up the carbs.

base hp is rated at about 150, with a .5 bar charge, I would hope for about 50-60 more putting it a bit over 200 hp. Should be able to at least stay close to a modern mini van then when drag racing to the super market :)

Thanks, its really looking nice, I removed the plastic poly loom and recovered with some high temp cloth tape. Added a strain relief made from a clamp of some kind for the factory location clamp. tidied up the rest of the wires that go to the injectors and sensors. going to do some monitor data on the O2 sensor for a later video.

Maybe my next career!

Much easier, really just removing pins, cleaning/shortening leads and terminations, just finished the pump relay. Only thing left is to fix a couple more leads (CHTS/AAR/knock sensor) and add the 6 /4 pin under dash connector (the wires are all set, just need to terminate them). Got all the injectors done,TPS done. I even tested the FP relay (ECU out, power to ign on and neg to pin 108 (think that is the one), to make sure the relay clicked (added diode to prevent reverse EMF). I wanted to make sure I did the diode in the correct polarity across the relay coil. Used a test light to limit current, all good. Thats pretty much the only thing I can see that could be messed up since all the rest of the wiring is stock, but for the added resister pack. I made sure the resistor load was always split between the two banks of 3, so on the 2 resistor pack I have inj 1 and 6, on the 4 pack I have the 2,3,4,5. That way during any injector event both resistor pack have current flowing thru them.

I think i will get some noid lights (think that is what they are called) and watch that happen real time.

You know I do!!

Great!