Відео

It's certainly different to those of us used to Fords, Chevys, and Chrysler products. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.

I was hoping my dash would still have the original writing on the back of it. Other's I've seen had the color written on in crayon. No such luck though. What did you use to cover your dash with? The original looks like black oil cloth, not even a true "leatherette." I've got a large chunk of black leather, but I'm not sure if it is big enough to do the whole dash. I also thought about putting a wood veneer on it.

I'll toss the brackets in Evaporust, but I suspect they are toast. Since this car doesn't stand a snowball's chance in hell of ever being concourse quality I'll probably end up making new ones out of 14 gauge.

"It'll buff out..." I'm hoping I can pick up a lot of stuff used. I think I'll stick with an original though. Without power steering the larger wheel helps out.

Thanks. I'm slowly getting all the recording and editing issues figured out.

Thanks. I try to grab music that compliments the action or chills out some of the franticness I felt trying to get things done. Sometimes I just come across a really great piece of music and want to share it.

Thanks. I'm not sure where the "box" even is anymore. Please like, subscribe, and share if you haven't already.

I think this one has more of a fiendish grin....

More torture and pain coming in future episodes. I've got a plasma torch waiting to wreak revenge with though... and patience...

The outside was covered in so much black engine oil and dirt it looked like and scraped off like tar. I've cleaned it out and so far the inside parts look good except for some rust. I chose diesel because it was cheaper than kerosene and less flammable (higher flash point) than gasoline. The diesel does leave a thin film, but it's protecting the metal and not stinking up the garage so I can live with that. Definitely cheaper than brake cleaner! Thanks for commenting and please like, subscribe, and share if you haven't already.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne Oh, I've been subscribed for a few months. It's nice to watch someone else wrench on a greasy pile. The volatiles in kerosene and gasoline, while they do have a lower flashpoint and smell, are what actively will break down the grease/tar/goo. Brake cleaner is usually made of derivatives of naphtha, which is the base feedstock of gasoline. You can often find red dyed farm kerosene (or diesel) that's sold at a blocked pump which is cheaper than the regular road-taxed stuff.

I buy a couple of gallons of it twice a year to use for starting fires in the small pit we burn twigs and fallen limbs in. I get double duty out of it because I dirty it up cleaning car parts, pour it into a different container, then use that to start the fire. A lot cheaper than paying $6 a quart for charcoal lighter fluid.

Definitely. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind!

Yah I have a ribcage in my bugeye with a 948. They seem to shift better. I believe you can't get parts anymore to rebuild smooth case gearboxes.

Thanks... I finished cleaning all the sections out with diesel Saturday. Saved all the bits that fell out, but was surprised to find there really wasn't any more bits and pieces of metal. Might be able to save the tranny after all. Thanks for commenting and please like and subscribe if you haven't already.

Yup. Between the rockers clattering, the throwout bearing squealing, generator squealing, and various other things I found I'll be it really "impressed the girls." Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

I don't plan on driving it much, if I did I'd probably do as others have and pop in either a Nissan or Ford 5 speed. Money is tight, so if I can rebuild it cheap enough I'll probably go that route. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne understood but make sure you can source the parts you may need as some are no longer available unlike the rib case.

and it has some common parts with the morris minor

Great to hear. I've still got to work on speaking loud and clear enough. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

I used that no clutch shifting technique when I rode my last motorcycle. I know the really old timers used to "Double clutch" on transmission back before they were synchronized. I suspect with thick enough gear oil this process would get the gears to match speed quicker and make shifts less noisy. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne Not wanting to accept the title of 'old timer' I would double clutch a friend's MGA first to second and vise versa. He had no idea about it and always started in second. Fastest way to burn out a clutch. Just makes you want to weep.

Diabetic myself, glad you caught that. I'm still in the "What the hell did I get myself into phase" as the next video will show. Once I everything torn apart and can start the rebuild process it may not be easier, but it will be more fun. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

The saving grace on this car is that it shared a lot of components with the MG Midget and other cars. That at least makes some of them fairly easy to get and not outrageously expensive. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

Fortunately I've learned over the years to laugh at myself and the stupid things I do. Takes the sting out of the Iodine. As for the carbs, kind of what I expected when I bought the car. This is kind of a "worst case" scenario project. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.

It's a tough call on the music. Some people like the background music, some dislike it because of my choices in music, and a couple of people have mentioned having problems hearing narration over the background. I try to keep it subtle except for where the video has silence or the footage is speed up. The audio in the sped up footage can be extremely irritating and most people prefer it there. I'm still learning the editing software packages I use (Premiere Pro & Camtasia) so the videos will get better in the future as I learn how to tweak the settings.

Hmmm... Now I'm confused. The articles I've read said the rockers started out as forged but were switched in later years to press steel because the pressed steel was cheaper to make than forgings.. As for the rocker posts themselves, definitely alloy/aluminum/pot metal, but they have pressed in bearings. The weird part to me is the rocker shaft itself shows far more wear than the rocker towers/posts... Can't remember if I did an internal diameter check on the tower bearing surfaces... I'll have to check that out. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne early engines with forged arms - its possible ive only ever seen pressed steel on the engines ive seen and forged on cooper engines in any event the forged arms are the ones to have (unless you want to go exotic) - if you can find a set of steel towers i'd use those the rocker shaft is fixed so there should be no wear in the towers i cant remember if there is an insert in there originally its been a long long time since i looked at an early engine

Thanks for the info. I'll have to double check the towers. I might be wrong but I thought they had pressed in bearings. I might have to get a whole different engine considering what this one has been through.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne do you have david vizards book "tuning the a series engine" that has lots of info - the block will take a pretty fair over bore (0.125?) -as far as i recall 1050 cc is possible using 998 pistons 998 pistons are available from Graham Russell Engineering prices in Aust dollars there are other sources Graham is the guru supplying some of the racing crews in the US and UK the rest is common to minis so mini spares or any of them can supply the only major issue to look for is cracks in the head and block

@@user-gl5kj1fm5x Thanks, I'll have to check out that book. I've got to get the block to a engine machine shop to see if it can be bored out or has to be sleeved. I suspect at least one cylinder will be a sleeve job so probably all of them. I've got several sources here in the US for engine parts It's going to be a while before I start worrying about the engine though, I'm still in the "tear the car apart" stage. Transmission is next.

Thanks for the feedback and please subscribe if you haven't already. Not sure what I'm going to do with the engine just yet. All depends on cost to repair versus finances. If I was rich I'd be tempted to drop some monster engine in it. Perhaps something like this... ua-cam.com/video/Z4WcDXftxKk/v-deo.html

Ummm...NO! I'll unsubscribe if you do!🤨

No worries... I'm doing all this on my social security so unless I hit the lottery there is no way in hell I'll have the money for the Hemi... And if I hit the lottery I definitely wouldn't do it.

Yeah... I suspect this shaft either wasn't hardened. I'll bet the engine was noisy as all hell while it was running.

I had 1 hour and 45 minutes of recording, but I didn't record part of it at the start, so I'm guess 2 to 2 1/2 hours total. Thanks for the comment and please subscribe if you haven't already.

Thanks for the feedback. I try to mix it up in every video while keeping it subtle in the background. Is it the music I choose you don't like, or just the fact that I put in the background music?

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne I'm hearing impaired. Music is fine, talking is fine, but both together make it hard to follow what you are saying.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne The music is unnecessary and distracting, plus not to everyone’s taste. Some intro music at the beginning and some at the end is all you need. Perhaps too when you are doing some fast forward sections when you are not commenting on the procedures. My thoughts but keep going you are doing a good job.

@@garethgoodchild2643 Thanks for the feed back. I've been using it throughout because of the fast forwards, and sections where I'm not narrating which happens quite a bit throughout the videos. Sometimes I use it to cover up hammering and other repetitive noise. The final edit software I use has an AI function in it to accentuate narration over other audio, maybe I need to tweek that setting a bit to push the music down more during narration.

@@ansomeBob The software I use for final editing has an AI feature that is supposed to push the music volume down during narration. I'll try tweeking that setting on future videos. I also need to speak more clearly at times. I occasionally start mumbling when things are going slightly bad, but not bad enough to make me start swearing...

I've talked to people at a couple of places online that specialize in these engines and they both said they were all built this way. One place does carry press-in bearings for the other to positions in the block though. Not sure if they require grinding the camshaft down to fit the bearings though. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.

Good recommendation, especially given how light the complete engine actually is compared to other engines. Next stopping point for the engine is going to be a good machine shop that specializes in engines to see if this block is even worth using. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.

At 72 I'm having to figure out ways to use less brute force, but ignorance I have plenty of! Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.

Must be outside of my area. However, I suspect I better not pick up another one right now, just to "ensure domestic tranquility." Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already.

@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne its all there too

I'm not quite sure where "fun" ends and "masochism" begins with this one... Thanks for commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already!

The goo... definitely the goo. Once you've figured out how to deal with one locking tab you are pretty much set for all of them. The goo just seemed to keep showing up over and over. Thanks for watching and commenting! Please subscribe if you haven't already.

Just wrapped up a future video showing the final teardown of the engine. Only 1 cam bearing in the block. Researched this with a couple of places on the web that rebuild the engine and they both said "Yup, that's the way the came from the factory.

This absorbent is actually shredded compressed wood like they make pellet stove fuel from. Probably just the floor sweepings. I've found actual pellets in it. It absorbs oil into it unlike the clay/kitty litter "absorbents" they sell. Those soak up water, but oil just sticks to the outside of the clay. It is also less dusty with a woody smell.

I'm an optimist. Have to be to take on a mess like this one!

No pressure washer for this, I'm cleaning everything including the block in a parts washer using ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser (made for restaurants, but works great on this also. Not sponsored, and expensive at about $13 a gallon. I'm buying it in 3 gallon jugs and using it full strength. No nasty smell, doesn't mess up my lungs like the last stuff did, and it's safe enough that I can dip my hands in it and not worry about chemical burns. And when it can't strip grease good anymore I can put back in the original jugs and dispose of it in the trash since it is biodegradable.

You definitely didn't want to smell this. The engine in this definitely didn't have chromed cylinders. I think they are too far gone to get them over-bored, but I've been told I can get them sleeved. Not sure what I'm going to do yet.

The tops probably worth more than the car right now, but that will change...

Just need to buff it out...😂

Thanks for the feedback. I've been thinking about that also. It worked great for the very first video, and was pretty good for the second one also, but I think its time to make a few changes. I've picked up better cameras and I just learned some things that will make editing a lot faster which will give me more time to improve the channel.

I'm trying to keep the videos as real as possible. It seems like a lot of restoration videos make it all look so neat and easy.

Surprised me also. I expected to have to beat the thing off.

Thanks, will do!

No. Almost 11 years USAF. And you are correct, I am very close to NAS. Really cool because I get to have the Blue Angels fly over my house on a regular basis...

I've had a few US vehicles that were that way. I had a 1965 Jeep that kept blowing oil out the breather tube into the oil bath air cleaner. I finally just set it up to drain back into a 2 gallon can and just poured it back in the crank case every few days.

Sometimes feedback from "that guy" is very helpful. Since the tripod shots sometimes miss exactly what I'm seeing and doing I've tried using a chest mounted Gopro to catch the detail. I've learned that it works OK provided I'm sitting/standing still but is not so good if I'm moving around. I've picked up a couple of better cameras and learned a few things so things will get better, I promise.

Your way is definitely quicker and easier. I'm 270 lbs and 72 years old so I definitely understand where you are coming from...

The more I work on the more I'm finding a "variety" of fasteners. At least 3 or 4 Whitworth, most probably are BIS, but I've also come across a few SAE, and even a wood screws that were used to attach the cloth door straps to the inside of the A pillars. The wood screws were of two different sizes and types, so I suspect at least some of them were original to the car. As I understand it the major difference between BIS and SAE are how the pitch of the threads are cut.

Tight, but not as bad as some American cars I've worked on. Thanks for watching and commenting!