Відео

I'm 6ft2 and shoot a 45# Black Hunter Recurve with 500 spine arrows at 29.5" draw. For a beginner I would suggest start with 25# to 30# and would recommend 700 or 600 spine arrows. Don't overbow yourself or bad form becomes a habit. An easy bow will allow for good form to develop and reduce injury risk, archery muscles need to develop. The 70" length recommendation is based on modern target archery. These traditional bows work and shoot different to a modern target Recurve bow. Hope this helps!

@ArcheryParkNZ this helps so so so much. I say beginner but I'm just getting back into archery after years and I've still got my form and pull but yea I was planning to stick with 30# thanks so so much for your advice I really appreciate it. This might be another silly question but what does the spine of an arrow actually indicate?

@@abdullahmuhammad8307 No silly questions! The spine tells you how flexible the shaft is. An arrow shaft needs to flex the right amount around the riser to come out straight on the other end, this is a phenomena called the archers paradox. For Carbon arrows the higher the number the softer it is. For wooden arrows the lower the number the softer it is, as it follows more closely the poundage figures written on a longbow. There is also a dynamic spine which is affected by arrow length, point weight etc. There is an excellent video explaining this: ua-cam.com/video/O7zewtuUM_0/v-deo.html

@ArcheryParkNZ I see thank you. I'll give that video a watch I really appreciate it 🫡

Hi. You have a slightly different model to this one, it's a version that is parallel produced but simpler in it's shape and nowadays sold more often as the profit margin is higher for resellers. It's strange that you have no draw weight info written on one of the limbs - that would be the lower one. It actually matters, as you don't draw your bow at the centre but higher from it. You can measure the tiller which will tell you which limb is slightly stronger, that one should go at the bottom of your bow as it bends a little less than the top one. The serial numbers won't help. Good luck!

Cheers mate!

@@ArcheryParkNZ thanks👍

11mm works well for split finger. For 3 below I'd try a little higher and would suggest a 2nd nocking point as arrows often slide down using 3 below.

It would not fit. The shape for the top and bottom limb match the shape on the riser. It would look wrong and more importantly the tiller would be off as the weaker limb would end up on the top that way. Have a look at 2:30mins and 10:08mins and you will note that the riser is shaped different on top and bottom and the limbs match that shape. Also in the general agreed way between all manufacturers, writing goes on the bottom (so it's the right way up for reading), and the decal (if any) on the outside at the top limb. The only difference would be for ILF limbs which are identical in form, shape and information but they always state which limb is top and which one is bottom.

@@ArcheryParkNZ I understand. Is it the new version that is uniform? The limbs with flat edges on both top and bottom? So the newer version has the writing at the top and the older one at the bottom?

@@idhcustomtoys The new version has square ends on riser and limbs. Still general convention is that the limb with the writing goes on the bottom, so that it can be read the correct way (letters right way up and facing the archer when held in bow hand). We used to have that version also and when we measured the draw weights of the individual limbs the weaker ones (which needs to go on top) was the one without writing. There are however many copy cats, so without knowing exactly where you got yours from it might be an exception. The only way to find out for sure in that case would be to measure the limbs individually to find the weaker one, or next best approach is to check tiller when strung one way and then the other way, and to go with what measures best. Black Hunter also doesn't pack instructions, so it might be the resellers opinion, which could be wrong as many on Ali, Wish etc. are not archers. You may also refer to Kramer's video instructions here: ua-cam.com/video/zVyTkbvL6cI/v-deo.htmlsi=K8ICts8bpCufJdg1&t=368

@@ArcheryParkNZ It's the video on the Amazon page that states it. It is confusing for beginners as one image is the old style with the shaped limbs, and the next is the new style with the flat limb ends. I think the video has it incorrect after your instruction. In some of the other photos you can seen the writing on the bottom. Thanks for the replies and explanations. Really appreciate it.

@@idhcustomtoys You're welcome. Glad we could help. It's always best to buy directly from an archery shop, that way you support the sport and will ensure to get good advice in the future.

We tried 60# at it, at 20m it worked OK. But we only took a few shots, so I can't tell you for how long it would hold up before the arrows go through. I would try it with a backstop behind and a few layers of cardboard on the front.

Primarily you should twist or detwist your string when you have the need to adjust your brace height. A twisted string also keeps the strands tighter together, in my opinion this leads to a longer life span. A completely untwisted string would also have less flex than a twisted one and might cause issues on the bow. However I have not heard that you must twist your string.

Hi. 11mm is a good place to start and is solely based on our experience over the years. For many bows and archers this generally gives a good result. Some tuning once you have developed your technique may improve your shooting. Things to look for to spot issues are: 1) A riding arrow flight: this points to nocking point to be either too high or too low 2) Getting hit or even small cuts from the arrow on the bow hand: This means that the nocking point is set too low.

Happy to help!

Thanks for noticing your currency error. If you ask around in the New Zealand archery community you would be delighted to hear from them how much we support them, sponsor tournaments, provide targets at near costs to clubs and more. We also offer a voluntary 2 year warranty on all products we sell.

I leave no space.

As a shop we have decided to keep ordering the original model due to the bigger sight window compared to the version with the straight limb ends. Black Hunter keeps making both versions, but the original is more expensive, and the new version makes them more profit. You can find our shop here www.archerypark.nz, just note that we're in NZ. But I'm looking to offer this version in Europe eventually also, as we get a lot of questions about the original.

​@@ArcheryParkNZ My bad... it's NZ dollar

I wouldn't think so. There aren't many targets at all that can deal with that kind of power.

Thanks for the great feedback! The step through can become a save method with some practice and is what I would use for all bows if I don't have a stringer at hand. The push-pull is great for straight bows like Longbows, but can be tricky with Recurves.

I have a black hunter and made my own string at a 6" brace height. I've had it a year and shoot 2-300 aŕows a week and have never had a problem.

@@compacteconomycar5300 think mine is at 6.5 on my Bh longbow, never had a problem, either . I'm guessing you don't let it drop an inch to 5? Did you pre stretch your string, Point is cheap strings will stretch over an inch I less than 100 shots, if brace height is too low it's bad for the bow and shit will 💔🙏💘🏹🇭🇲

@krownedklown420klik9 I make d97 strings at 6" unstretched and shoot 100-300 shots, then twist a couple until it's at 6" again. These bows are pretty resilient. My 60lb recurve will shoot a 385 grain arrow at 215fps all day. It's loud, but arrow weight plays more into bow breakage than brace height. I normally shoot a 590 grain arrow at around 190fps

You'll add a big variable if you don't use a nocking point. In my opinion the art of archery is to reduce variables as much as you can for maximum consistency. You could tie one, instead of using a brass ring. And yes you could use a ruler for the brace height, but you would struggle with it for a nocking point I think. A T-square is a great and very affordable tuning tool to own for any archer.

Always nice to learn about the string material. We have been informed by Black Hunter, which make the Mandarin Duck branded bows, that it is Dyneema indeed. Our comparisons still show that a speed gain and quieter bow with more advanced string material used in a flemish twist can be gained. On a side note Junxing and Mandarin Duck are not the same bow, the look nearly identical and are compatible but are easy to differentiate on 4 key elements. This is because there are 2 companies that copied from one another. We are planning a video on that, so stay tuned. Possibly one manufacturer also uses a different string material, which could create confusion.

I'm so glad this video helped you on your journey! For a nocking point you can also Google for "how to tie a nocking point" that way you won't need the nocking point pliers and the brass ring, a bit of floss will work. A bow square and bow wax however will go a long way in your archery kit 🙂

Hi. We're new to UA-cam. Can you please explain your comment?

Hi. Thanks for your comment. Depending on your crossbow you may have made the right call. The stopping power of this target may not be sufficient for a more powerful crossbow. It's certainly enough for a traditional bow, but Compound bows and Crossbows it will most likely struggle.

Mate, I'm so stoked to see all the comments and discussion my little video creates. So totally appreciate your input! In my humble opinion the term Traditional Archery was coined shortly after Holless Wilbur Allen invented the Compound bow in 1966. A distinction was required between this powerful machine to previous existing bows. If you look at the rules of IFAA and WA the term barebow refers to either target archery recurves or compound bows stripped down to no attachments and aids. All the definitions for Traditional Archery that I quickly looked up include modern Longbows like the one I'm using here and also Recurves. There is however a wonderful and amazing genre of Historic Bows (American native bows, English Warbows, Japanese Kyudo bows, Asian Horsebows, the Stoneage Holmegaard) and the genre of Primitive Bows (bows made from a single piece of wood by modern people following no historic pattern). Personally I would put them all under the wonderful sport of Traditional Archery. If a bow has no wheels and only one string, no sights and no mechanical aids then to me it's a traditional bow. The thing is, there isn't a governing body to define it. I think that's good, it ensures wonderful conversations at a campfire.

Picky, picky, picky!!!

@@MrArchie765 😁

We sell arrows :) Just get in touch.

I've been doing archery for over 20 years. Back then I learned from a good coach at our archery club, then by shooting a lot with others, then I took some lessons from the European longbow champion. I also added some books in the mix. With the arrival of smartphones we had a good training tool as you can film yourself in slow motion and analyse your shooting sequence. I do have a bow trainer, purely for strength training, but I don't use it a lot. I'm still of the opinion that an in person trainer is best. My suggestion is to join a club that is active in the sport and tournaments - they tend to have good and engaged coaches that will make sure your form is good, which will help with everything that follows and prevent long term injuries. Sorry for the long answer :-)

That's a very tricky question! First I'd try a modern longbow, traditional recurve, a target bow and a compound bow. Best place is to find an archery club and talk to them, they usually have gear. Once you know what type of bow you like, you can take it from there. If that's not an option then good starter bows are the Black Hunter takedown recurve or longbow - solid and affordable traditional starter bows.

Hi. This is a 35# @ 28", drawn to 30" resulting in ca. 40#. The bow is a 60" hybrid longbow, as such there is no stacking whatsoever at my draw length.

@@ArcheryParkNZ Thank you

You are very welcome! For longer draw lengths I start with the low end of the brace height, so in my example would start at 8". For your bow would start at 6 1/2". Higher brace heights with long draw lengths can put unnecessary stress on the bows and the shape at full draw might not be the most efficient. This is my personal experience, though - so well worth playing with to find your own optimum.

Since I can't run and shoot at the same I will immediately sell my equipment . Thanks for the heads up .

You may want to take note that this video is intended for absolute beginners. I would love to see your video how you make someone new to archery do what you say in the first 5 minutes they hold a bow and arrow in their hand.

Lars Anderson fan I see.😮🤔🤣😂🤪🤡

Standing and shooting at a stationary target is the foundational skill in archery. What's more, that's how most bow hunting is performed. It's the foundational way archery has helped humans survive for tens of thousands of years. Speedtard comments like this are profoundly ignorant, uneducated and trollish...

Thanks for the suggestion. I added a link to our online shop and our arrow configurators. Just note that we are in New Zealand.

Thank you.