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Thanks for the kind words!!

It would depend on how much paint you had when you added the .2. For example, if you added .2 to a pint, and wanted to make an additional quart, then I would add .4. It comes down to being analytical and calculated. A lot of guys don't even measure their adjustments on a scale. They just add drops or increments, etc. I just have a different approach. It really comes in handy when you have to remake a formula or when keeping track of adjustments to be able to duplicate a color. Percentages come in handy in a lot of circumstances. Just remember, you can always add, but it is difficult to try and clean paint that has been tinted too far. Good luck, and let me know if that helped.

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail That definitely makes sense! Thank you for the reply man! I appreciate it. And I'll definitely let you know if I have any more questions. Thanks again 😊

@@TJA810 no worries !! It can be daunting for sure, but just keep chipping away at it and let me know if you have any questions

My buddys airplane hangar in Watkins Colorado! It's quite the man cave. Drywalled, textured, painted, acoustic drop ceiling, epoxy floor, etc! Gorgeous place!

@@Kustompaint2026 Thanks!!

@@adrianawilks8171 you don't have to, but this step will ensure that you remove most of the contaminates. It is always a good practice.

@caseyjohnson6573 every bit of a year. I have also had good luck top coating it with technicians choice ceramic coating!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail thanks for letting me know!

@@caseyjohnson6573 sure!!

@brettferguson3 Hey Brett! That's awesome! They recommend reducing up to 10 percent with water, but I have been reducing anywhere from 15 to 20 percent. I even reduced my Kilz primer as well. I just got done spraying 6 doors, and they turned out smooth as glass! Lay it on fairly wet and watch it smooth out! I have been using a 2.5 polyester tip in my Sata 100 B! Good luck and let me know how they turn out! Kevin

@Greg_P611 I have actually had really good luck with it. I have used it on several sets of wheels, and it seems to last more than a couple of years...

Hey, Some of your results will depend on how you handle the situation. I would recommend following the instructions in the video. However, I will give you a recap. All clear coats are pretty much the same, but darker colors, especially black, magnify the condition of the clear coat. Keep in mind the rule of detailing, which would be using the finest measure possible first. It's a good idea to work as clean and methodical as you can to cut down on the chance of having to polish the vehicle afterward, but there is a chance you may have to anyway. Remember, the more you can rely on chemicals, the less you have to use abrasion to remove the contaminants. Here is what I recommend... Buy some white microfiber towels if possible. Then, thoroughly wash the car with a dawn dish soap mixture and water, and be somewhat generous to keep some lubricity. Maybe an ounce or so, per 5 gallon bucket. Next, dry the car and see how it feels. Most likely, you will need to start using chemicals. I would saturate a towel with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. You can use 90 percent as well, but be careful not to touch plastics such as headlights, tail lights, and black plastic trim.There is a potential you could melt the plastic. Slowly wipe over each panel and check your results. If this does not work, I would finish this step to remove what you can and start using a solvent such as a wax and grease or adhesive remover. Lacquer thinner will be the final product you could use if neither one of these will strip it. Buy a fine clay bar and mix a bucket with some laundry detergent and go panel by panel. This is shown in my other overspray video. A clay bar should remove whatever overspray is left. I always rely on my chemicals, especially with black, to cut down on the chance of having to polish. Needless to say, you may still need to polish. I'm not sure if you have ever polished a car, but now could be a good time to learn. If all these steps work, then wax your car, and you are done. If not, reach out again, and I will see what I can do to help! Thanks for watching! Kevin

Thanks for watching!!

Hey Jim! I am really busy currently. However, I have my neighbors Camry for a headlight demo when I get some free time. I will add the compressor paint gun combo to the list!!

That sounds great, and thanks again for the videos. A lot of useful info. Jim@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail

Hey! I added this to the list of upcoming videos. As soon as I find one that needs to be done, I will have one for you. I have a couple of nice methods...

That would be great! Thanks Kevin@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail

Hey Jim, I have one coming down the pipe that I was actually thinking about doing a videos series on. This will have all sorts of nuggets of tricks and techniques. From headliner cleaning, carpet restoration, scratches, wetsanding and polishing, touch up, painting, etc. The whole enchilada! I will get some videos rolling for you in a month or so... Kevin

Thanks, sounds great! I look forward to seeing them.@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail

@@wrigleyfield9042 perfect

Good evening! Thanks for watching! I often wonder how much value my videos provide, so I am glad to hear that they help! On to your questions from both videos! Here is my advice.... Believe in yourself and have confidence that you know you can do it. I have been polishing for going on 30 years. I can remember when I first started and how long it took me to put all the pieces of the puzzle together! I learned from every job and kept building my skills as I progressed. It's like anything else. Practice makes perfect! Pay attention and create a good system that works for you. The beauty of these days is that there are a lot of people on UA-cam to learn from. I would watch a lot of videos and try what people recommend and come up with your own style. I learned from a lot of people in all the shops I worked in. I built a routine based on all the techniques I thought were valuable and ignored the ones I didn't. The biggest piece of advice I have and this only comes with experience is what I would call pad/polish selection. Learning to match the condition of the paint with the appropriate combo that will get the job done with the least amount of steps as well as preserving the clear coat. It takes some time, but with some practice, you will quickly learn your "Go to products"! Performing test spots are a must! This will help you unlock the right combo for the task at hand! Maybe I should create a video for this?? As for your 2nd question. I have not tried the Rupes Uno Advance, but with a quick overview, I would use this product when you want to "shoe shine" a car. Here is an example. Lets say you have a newer car that has a small amount of light scratches as well as some cobb webbing, and you want to quickly increase the gloss, remove the light damage, and seal the car all in one step. This would be a great choice! This product is a finishing polish/paint sealant all in one. It would be a great product to use if you are just starting out, as it's a light product that isn't as aggressive as some. It's hard to go wrong with Rupes products, as I am a huge fan! They make your life easy. Feel free to reach out when you are ready to give polishing a shot. I would be happy to have a phone conversation and point you in the right direction! Thanks, Kevin

You should be able to replace all the parts on your 5500, including the air control. If you are unable to control the air volume, you could always use a cheater guage for the time being. This will allow you to control the air pressure. As far as your other gun spaying in "bursts," I would recommend thoroughly cleaning and blowing out the entire gun with compressed air. If all the passages are clean and clear, then you have a worn-out part, or something isn't tight. Most of the time, when I have seen a gun spray with what I would call a "pulsation," either the nozzle (behind the air cap) isn't quite tight or the seal behind it needs replaced. One thing to keep in mind. Sata - Danam Corporation has a customer service / tech line. They also have a repair center , which you could send your gun in for repair if you are unable to fix it. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

Hey! I think clear bras are great when they are applied correctly, and the installer uses high-quality materials! I especially like it if you have the entire front end of a vehicle done versus installing the traditional 18 - or 24-inch bra across the nose. There are some upsides and downsides. The upsides are rock chip and scratch protection, etc. The downsides are cost, delamination (especially around edges), yellowing, and knife marks. In summary, if you love your car, are willing to spend the money, and have a true professional install one, they are fantastic! Also, if you have a vehicle where some of the painted surfaces are vertical, I would recommend getting those areas protected, as they tend to get blasted with rocks. If you want to save the money, have an older vehicle, and you dont mind touching up some rock chips every once in a while, then I would take vacation instead! Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words and for watching!!

This pad is not as aggressive as a white wool pad. It is pretty soft. Which pad do you think I should have used?

Hey, Check out my other video. It goes more in-depth on removing overspray. I would follow the protocol. If none of these techniques work, you can always wetsand as a last resort. Let me know how it goes ua-cam.com/video/WjuGLd5iHa4/v-deo.htmlsi=Wq-ApLwUCBJKmpa_

Thanks for the kind words and for watching!!

You will love it, buddy!! Buy the lock set. They are premium!!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail What model number did you order on the pins?

@ohdirtracer Infinite rule 5/8ths by 3. (Keyed alike) 3 set. 1 for the hitch, 1 for the receiver or ball, and 1 for the pintle

Any input on if it helps with away? I have a 34’ TT I want to use it for but I need something to help with tail sway. Thx

Hey Tom! Thank you for the recommendation. I will work on it! Thanks for subscribing as well! Happy New Years! Kevin

Can you expand on this question?

Thanks for the kind words!!

Thank you very much!!

Thanks, buddy! I am just getting started! I am going to be making a lot of videos moving forward... Thanks for the support!

3m Adhesive remover works quickly and effectively when dealing with the weight residue that is light and white in color. I usually soak a white microfiber cloth or a Terry towel and let it sit on the glue for a bit. It usually comes right off. When dealing with the residue that is gray in color and thicker, I use an eraser wheel first, then clean up the residue with 3m adhesive remover. If you don't have an air compressor and don't want to buy an eraser wheel, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun to remove the weights and glue. I will make a video tomorrow for you to check out!

Thank you sir

Thanks! I would start with alcohol. If that doesn't work, I would use wax and grease remover or a reducer. You could use a magic eraser with either one of these products to make it more aggressive. When switching to a solvent, try an inconspicuous spot, like on the underside of the flare, but wax and grease, reducer, or adhesive remover shouldn't damage the plastic. You may need to get fairly aggressive in order to remove the overspray, and since it is plastic and not paint, you could potentially dis-color or mar it. If this happens, you can use a vinyl die, which I can cover in a future video. One more thing to try would be some sort of clay, whether it be a clay bar, disc, mit, or pad. Let me know how it pans out or if you have any other questions! Kevin

That is what I am referring to. You could try some clay, but I would try an adhesive remover and a magic Eraser. The Eraser works well on plastic trim. A flat Razor blade for the windows is key. As far as the paint goes, I would try the techniques in the video...

Check out my other overspray video. It shows a lot of techniques with solvent ua-cam.com/video/WjuGLd5iHa4/v-deo.htmlsi=TpV49W0n1p-_II6L

Start with a light solvent first. You could use a magic Eraser with the solvent as well. They work wonders on plastic!

Thanks for the kind words!

Yes, black shows everything, that's for sure! I would try to remove everything I can with a solvent cleaner to try and minimize how much work you would need to do with a clay bar. Clay bars come in different grits, so I would start with fine and get more aggressive if need be. Make sure your car, bucket, and clay bar are clean. Use dawn dish soap and add a touch of laundry soap in a bucket. I would recommend using a microfiber towel to apply water to the surface. Work clean, take your time, and be gentle. This method will give you the best chance at not having to polish. Once you have finished, wash and dry the vehicle and inspect it. Most likely, the vehicle will need a light polish, but this will be a judgment call on your part, depending on your level of care and standards. If you have an orbital polisher, I would at least run over the vehicle quickly, as all the hard work has been done to prep the vehicle for polishing. Let me know if you have any other questions, and thanks for watching!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail I really thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment. Today I bought lacquer thinner, and was feeling very brave about it, but I just couldn’t do it. I think I’m just going to wait and have a full one-step polish. Not to mention, I had already ordered a small polisher and a clay bar, but you are right it does comes off chemically because yesterday I tried with some alcohol very gently and it worked. What are your thoughts on using lacquer thinner?

@klachi7 You are very welcome! I am glad I can help! You could always go to a body shop supplier and buy some wax and grease remover. This product is similar to 3m adhesive remover as far as its level of aggressiveness and less aggressive than thinner. Being an ex painter, I have used Lacquer thinner for years, and I am comfortable with it. However, I would try a more mild solvent first, like the 2 mentioned above. As long as you have a newer car, it should have a catalyzed or hardened clear coat and be alright to use. I think all solvents in general, even alcohol can somewhat soften or change the structure of the clear coat. You can feel it under the rag when you are wiping. Obviously, the more you reduce the product or the less aggressive it is, the less damage it will cause. Follow the detail rule - finest measure possible first. Start with alcohol, step into wax and grease remover. From there you can try thinner or resort to striping it mechanically, such as a clay bar. Although going this route, most likely, you will need to polish the vehicle afterward. It's 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other type thing. Take this as a good learning lesson and see where it takes you. I am guessing you will learn a lot in the process and be glad you did in the end. It is very gratifying to become a good detailer. The transformations of some of the cars I do or have done always make me proud and happy! Good luck!!!

Good Afternoon! I am happy to hear you ordered one. They are absolutely amazing and useful. You will get great results and love it. Thank you for the kind words. Sometimes, I wonder if the videos I make are helpful, but when I hear encouragement like this, it makes me want to continue making them! Thanks, Kevin

I have an 80-gallon Ingersoll Rand, which is a 2 phase compressor.I have had several 30 gallons over the years, some oil less, and an oil compressor. I recommend at least a 60-gallon or larger if you detail a lot, to be able to keep up with sanding as well as blowing vehicles out with compressed air, etc. A 30 gallon will do the trick for the most part, but you will need to give the compressor a break so it can catch up and refill the tank, every so often. With an 80 gallon, you can run just about anything you need. I upgraded close to 10 years ago and would not want to go back. However, most 60s and pretty much all 80s need to phase power to run. Hope this helps...

Thanks for the compliment and for watching!