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Thank you! If you use liquid or dry malt extract I would only use an extra light or ultra light malt. Anything else, even light malt, would add too much malt character. I know guys who are more than happy using dextrose or liquid brewing sugar. Will leave you with an exceptionally light body. I would lean towards liquid brewing sugar of the two for a cleaner flavour profile. If I use malt I typically go for liquid malt. They are often easier to find reliable supplies than the dry malts.

Cheers D. But the million dollar question was how was the actual beer? The NZ Hazy was the one I shared with you to try?

@@homebrewrepublic1993 it was really good mate I shared it other mates during a Christmas luncheon over the weekend. Where even they have asked me to make one of the NZ Hazy's and another MJ hazy.😁

@@deonvanheerden9048 Boom! and thank you Sir. Honestly can't ask for much more than beer our friends will drink with us!

Had a quick look at the video. When I looked at the vid at the point where I mixed the brew it looked like I had 18 litres (could just see the marking on the side of the fermenter). If I said 19 later on with the final product I most likely made an error. But that said 19litres over 18litres won't have major impact. the brew does have a kick with its ABV and it has a very strong hop profile. And from memory I suggest that some people may wish to lift it slightly anyway. If not for taste or lower ABV, then to lift the yield of the brew.

@ ok, was a bit puzzled..I’m on with this brew as we speak, day 3, going well so far.

@@alexouthwaite3740 Let us know how the brew comes out. We've only had good feedback about this one. We've seen a lot of people doing this with wheat LME and getting a great result.

Cheers Rob. Appreciate the comment. We've made our first wine as well and were stoked at how it came out. I think with the basics of the brewing process in hand getting a good wine is easily achievable.

Thats an epic amount of pears!

Ooohhhh. That was almost two years ago now. Don't remember the exact brew I made but the target ABV based on the kit instructions is 5.2%.

Hi @tinajohnston5488 Thank for the watch and comment. I've not encountered this personally. Sometimes in these cases its a bit of trial and error. The instructions are specific about putting the flavouring in once fermentation is complete. I do not know but one possibility is that the fermentation process may react with the flavouring. From where you are now I would add the yeast and let fermentation take its course. At the end of fermentation, taste test from the sample you take for gravity readings. If it tastes great - then bottle as is. I would be cautious of adding juice or a juice concentrate before you bottle as it may introduce additional fermentable sugars but ultimately this is something you could consider.

I haven't. By Hop tea I assume you mean steeping the hops in boiled water for say 10-minutes? Something that you advocate?

My current brew is my first attempt at a hop tea additive. I was disappointed by the impact of 100g of dry hops into the cold fermenter was getting so I went looking for other options. I boiled 4l of water, turned the flame off, added the hop sock and then tried to cool as fast asap. Really hoping to a hop bunch on top of the malt extract

@@fergusmcrae7155 I generally have a noticable impact from hops. There are other factors that might be affecting the hop profile in your brew. I had some really good feedback recently about the impact of oxigenation on hop profile. I've stopped short of fermenting under pressure and have found a way to go from pitching yeast to the point of bottling without exposing the brew to oxygen - will see how this goes. One thing I have been keen to try is what you have done, which was adding hops to a boil using malt extract. Keen to hear how that goes.

Cheers Aidan, I've just started playing around with cold steeping! Did Caramalt and Golden O with a Pale Ale - the taste tests out of the fermenter were great so looking forward to the bottle test in a few weeks.

Hi Aidan, Will be the next video that we post tonight!

Nice one

Hi There, Fermentation normally gets underway within 12-24 hours. I would open the fermenter and have a look at the surface of the brew. Just because the bubbler isn't going, doesn't mean the wort is not fermenting e.g. a layer of brown sludgy bubbles would be fermentation activity. If not some of the things I would check woud be: best before date on the back of the yeast packet. Fermentation temperature - are you within particulary the minimum temp. Ideal recomended temp is 18-24 degrees cels for the M44.

Thanks for your reply, I’ve added a Nottingham Hill yeast today and it’s started, not sure if it was a late starter or the additional packet I’ve put, fingers crossed crossed it will be ok

@@icemanknobby Glad its underway for you. Hope it turns out well - its a great brew!

Cheers! Definitely changes the brew. I've done it with both the Mangrove Jacks LME and the Black Rock LME. Both turned out well.

Hi Allan. Cheers! Thats a massive compliment that we really appreciate. We have actually done our first two brews of the Brick Road Kits and both came out exceptionally well. The brew review we drop in Aug will be a clone recipe we did of a NZ beer - Pan Head Super Charger APA using Brick Road Classic IPA and then a NZ 'everyday IPA' using the same kit. If everything goes to plan next week we will also have a special piece of content to drop about Brick Road.

Hi There. Cheers for checking us out. The Black Rock Cider is definitely one that's on the loooonnnnnggggg list of brews to make. By itself I believe the kit with standard 1Kg of fermentable brewing sugar is around 4.5%. We have had feedback from a number of brewers that when brewed as a single can people find the flavour doesn't have enough richness or depth. Most of the recipes we've seen published use 2 kits together alongside an additional KG of dextrose or brewing sugar and come out arount 6-7% if that helps you out at all.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 it does thanks for the response. I'll have to do some shopping on your site. Lots to try. Cheers

Legend. Thanks for watching and for the comment on the oat malt extract. I haven't seen the oat malt extract (dry or liquid) around but will have a look. I am about to start exploring steeping and was going to my next brew with incorporating cold steeping. Will keep your feedback in the back of my mind!

​@@homebrewrepublic1993 Awesome! I meant to say Dried Oat Extract (Dried Hydrolysed Oat Extract). I believe I was wrong about it being available in New Zealand, but I know your neighbors in Australia can get it. Gash Slugg on Home Brew Network did a couple videos about it. Cheers!

@@Skid-Baxter Suspect I will have to track some down next time we're over the ditch!

@@homebrewrepublic1993 👍🍺🍻

Cheers Sam. Definitely a little more kick than the Juicy. Happy brewing on the next round.

Cheers Darren! Thanks for the generous comment. I use carb drops. I find it easier and quicker. But carb drops work best in 350 - 375ml bottles (1 carb drop) or 750ml bottles (2 carb drops). If you're on 500ml bottles it might be easier to look at an alternative. Judging by the comments and questions I see in our group I think most people would measure dextrose into the bottle rather than batch prime.

Cheers! I had thought the whisky flavour was coming off the raw sugar as well. Nice insight on te brown sugar and good for me to keep in mind when I get round to trying it.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 👍😎🍺

Wow. Cheers for the very generous comment!

Cheers @xjamis My wife love interior design. Its a decal that was stuck on the wall over the paint. If you happen to be in NZ..... yourdecalshop.co.nz/products/world-map-wall-decal?_pos=1&_sid=eaeba0784&_ss=r&variant=42476018237689

Hi @diannewojcik502! Thanks for checking out our vid. Much appreciated. I haven't personally brewed the Strawberry and Pear cider kit. According to the specification on Mangrovejack.com the colour is meant to be pink, so sounds a little unusual. Couple of thoughts: Colour may be influenced by how you are bottling e.g. if you are not cold crashing, racking off or taking additional actions to aid clarity. There could be some sediment in your colour which may make it appear slightly darker or cloudy. I would also always check the best before date of a kit. This may be a factor. For the carbonation you mentioned that you used 1 sugar drop per 500ml bottle. I would have a look at the instructions on the sugar drops. Most drops are designed for 1 drop to a 330-375ml bottle and 2 drops in a 750ml bottle. This may be the reason that you have had a lower than ideal level of carbonation. If some bottles seem to have more carbonation than others I would check the seals on your swing top bottles. If it helps not every brew will always work out but overall kit brewing is a great way to make good brews and I hope you get a better outcome that you enjoy with the next brew. Hope that helps.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 thank you very much for your quick response. I have been making wine from kis for many years, and hey have always turned out well. I bought this kit in March with a best before date of June. The swing caps were placed securely on the bottles, and I used just 1/2 of he sweetener for Off Dry. I did no use any exra enhancer kit, and had he correct SG all he way. I am considering asking for a replacement from WineKitz.

@@diannewojcik502 Sounds like you have in hand. I'm actually brewing my first ever wine from kit now. I have a pinot Noir in the clearing stages and I am going to do a Sav Blanc next. I'm using Wine Expert. Any advice you would offer me?

Hey, Thanks for the support. We really appreciate the feedback. We had heard people say that the US was a lot more focussed on grain based approaches. To a degree this is something that is happening in NZ too, and was a big part of why we committed ourselves to kit brewing.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 👍😎🍺

The upside is there is always brew swaps!

Hi Jane. I would leave them. Most kits are published with a best-before date that tends to be 1-2 years from production. You are probably best to leave the kits you found. Cheers, Russell

Thanks and fair comments. Agree - changing ingredients especially malt extract to enhancer can change the colour and body composition of the beer significantly and the addition of additional hops can significantly change the flavour profile. Definitely some food for thought if I do this brew again.

Thanks Neo. Working on the volume piece.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 did you make the video in a basement - lots of echo.

@@diannewojcik502 Thanks - appreciate the comment. Working on the sound piece. We are about to move to a professional mic set. Cheers, Russell

Did you see the additional clip in the middle? I made a second one off the cuff that came out at 8.5%ABV - That one was a bit more drink with caution ;)

Hi @raycharlie8872. There are a few things in your comment. I'm a little cautious when advising about fermentation odours as people can have different interpretations of smell. Some general guidance: Some yeast strains will produce unique flavours during fermentation that can be interpreted as 'off' including a sulfur smell. This does not neccessarily incidate that there is an infection or anything else wrong. However, if the sulfur smell is excessively strong or persists long after fermentation has completed, or if it's accompanied by other off-flavors or unusual visual signs (like strange film or colors on top of the brew), it might indicate a problem, such as contamination or stressed yeast. What I would suggest is taking a taste test from a trial jar and looking taking a visual check of the surface of your brew. If there are no other conerns I would let the fermentation keep going.

50 - 100g of maltodextrin may help

Thanks Andy, can I add that to any brew e.g. an IPA ?

Fair call on the head retention. I think I even said in my brew review for the Golden that I didn't feel head retention was the best for that kit. I found the head retention on the IPA a lot better. And the description that comes for the IPA notes the use of wheat malt for improved head. Suggestion from @AndyThom is fair - Maltodextrin can help foam stability. Will also add to the body of the brew. It's a non fermentable starch that is tasteless. If you use Maltodextrin I would add it when you mix your wurt - you can disolved some in a cup of boiling water first. Good guidance again with Andy on the amount - potentially consider the lower end of the range for your first go.

Thanks Russel, so if I do an IPA next add 50g maltodextrin dissolved in hot water to the brew barrel before topping up to 23 litres yeah? Graeme :-)

Or would you say the IPA doesn't need it?

Thanks for watching @jjmedlycott To make sure we're on the same page, the kit comes with a packet of sweetner and a packet of flavouring. The sweetner is optional - you can add all (sweet finish), none (dry finish) or half (off-dry). I didn't find the difference in sweetness was massive. For the flavouring I've not heard of adding part of the packet. If you did only add part I would suggest it would start to reduce the strength of the specific flavour. My suggestion would be to start with the full packet, which is what the instructions intend. When you try the brew you will get a sense of the flavour as intended and you could always play with the variables in future brews to find the combination you like best. Maybe not a really specific answer but hope it helps. Cheers, Russell

That's great, thank you! @@homebrewrepublic1993

Hi Steve, Please believe me - I've got the feedback. Need to upgrade my approach to videos starting with the audio. Just a heads up Its about 2-3 months from the time I start recording a video until I publish it (remembering that there is 2 weeks to ferment and then I generally wait around 8 weeks until I review). I'll do what I can in the meantime to improve the audio in the editing software. It will be around 2 months until you see content come through with recording on new mics.

Hey @Jay - agree. It's one of my favourite MJ kits. I haven't ever tried to mix and match with the craft series kits but there is no reason why you can't. With some caution (for different reasons) I would suggest a max of 200gm including the hops that come with the kit, which is 50gm. If you want to be safe start with an increment of an additional 30-50 grams and see how you go/work up from there. Agree on the Galaxy especially. The other NZ Hop that would potentially work really well is Motueka. Cheers!

Thanks Russ, I’ll put an order through soon 👍

@@jaybellanzgmail never a problem dude!

Fair comments. You make an interesting point that I didn't really cover in the vid that infections of various types can change the equation completely.

@@homebrewrepublic1993 a good beer that's old will be way better than a fresh beer with an infection. My point in the original comment is that beers do keep for almost decades in my experience.

Cheers again on the comment. Will be picking up on the audio. Out of curiosity what did you use to introduce the chocolate to the brew?

On the Brick Road comment...... Watch this space!

This was a recipe from my local HB shop plus my other simple notes. 1.7kg Morgan’s Dockside Stout 1.5kg Roasted Dark Malt Yeast: Morgans Premium English Ale Yeast Pitching Temp: 26C Fermenting Temp: 20C Starting Gravity: 1.042 FG: 1.008 Bottled 11/03/2023 I am not a huge stout fanatic and don't know if I would try again. Chocolate on the nose but subtle on the taste. @@homebrewrepublic1993

not too sure but it looks like my copy paste and bold took out the line. Samuel Willards Creme De Cacao 50ml

Feedback is a gift, never an insult. Cheers for the comment. I'll look at how I can balance and improve the audio.

No probs Jay. Hope you guys enjoy!

Hey Russ, we put down this apple cider brew last Monday with the addition of 4kgs of Feijoas, I put the fermenter in the fridge with an Inkbird controller and heat pad and have maintained a steady 22 degrees C, I took a OSG and it was 1060, the air lock has been going crazy this week, I took a reading yesterday as the airlock has stopped bubbling and it’s reading 1009, I’ve taken another reading today and it’s 1008, do you think the fermenting has just about stopped and go to cold crashing? I was just surprised how quickly it’s fermented (6 days)!

@@jaybellanzgmail Based on that OG and current gravity reading that's 6.83%. NICE! In this case I would look for gravity to be stable for 3 days, before you cold crash. I say three days as there is a lot of additional sugars in the brew and there may be a slow tail. You want 3 days of gravity at a constant reading before you cold crash. If you cold crash before fermentation is fully complete you will stop fermentation prematurely and risk over-carbonation once bottled. Hope that helps.