Відео

I wondered if an Altoids box would be tight enough! Thanks for the tip. Happy firestarting!

It's a demonstration of a historical process. He is not suggesting you start carrying around flint and steel.

Don't wander too far off the path, kid.

There are certainly easier ways. I don't do this other than to help us appreciate how clever and skilled our ancestors were, and how lucky we have it this easy.

Because it is fun,it is one of my favorite techniques

Yep, you're right- I sort of misnamed the parts. I've never tried this with anything but char cloth. I should experiment a little!

It came up with the editing software for the drone, I think. I just looked it up- "Little Red Haired Boy", by Amphibious Zoo Music. It's pretty great, isn't it? Glad you like the video!

Hello, semi cousin! :-)

Jignesh, there's probably not nearly as much snow where you are, right? :-)

Thank you very much!

Well, the internet is a wide and wonderful place. I hope you find what you want :-)

Mark, excellent point. In this case, the switch is in the passenger compartment, And it would not have been hard, in a pinch, to just pull the spade connectors off and mash them together. But a quality switch is an excellent idea. Thanks!

@@gjbc Actually, was just thinking...how about pulling out the relay fuse for the fuel pump and carrying it with you? That way you can just reinstall it anytime you want and unless it's a criminal who carries around spare relays with him, you should be good.

@@Mark-wp4lwI was thinking the same thing. But the thief can simply take another fuse for a different circuit and put it in the fuel pump slot.

Mmm... No. I didn't show where the secret switch is hidden. They could figure it out eventually, but your average car thief is not going to stick around, if the car turns over, and turns over, and almost starts, but never starts. Anyway, I hope you found this useful!

True. They'd have to know you. And have seen this video. But if they did.. easy fix. Just cut the wire and give it constant power until its brought to its secure location then repaired. For whatever their dumb excuse would have been.

@@gjbc fast reply too. Thanks.

Hello, Chris! Contact info is on the contacts page at www.manbehindthecurtain.net . Thx!

Hello, James! Drop me an e-mail or call/text thru my website, www.manbehindthecurtain.net . I've never sold one. The high throughput, quick acting solenoid valves alone are probably up to $500 now, so this is not going to be cheap. There's another way to do it, using a piston actuator, a big ball valve, and a cheaper solenoid valve, but it probably works out to the same, because of the labor involved. I think, somewhere in the comments below, I posted the part number of that big valve. The rest is just plumbing and welding, if you wanted to make one yourself. :-)

Hello! It's pretty straightforward. The mold is made of tin catalyzed silicone, and the resin is a two-part polyurethane. I did some experimenting with resin dyes, to get the right color. I believe it's all made by Smooth-On, and I got them from Reynolds materials, here in Chicago. A little powdered charcoal, brushed lightly into them while they're still sticky, gives them a good black surface. Good luck! :-)

It is, depending on the date. Drop me an email- gjbc@comcast.net. Thx!

Miistli- thank you! so sorry, just seeing this now.

No it’s inactive

I live near it

Hello, Susan! Thanks so much for the kind words! I'll make sure Mom sees it! She's 92 now, still doing good. We're going to do a "Sospan Fach" duet next time I see her! Diolch yn fawr! (Ps- where do you live? Mom is going to ask me!)

www.mcmaster.com/#standard-brass-hollow-tubing/=16w64ot Part 8859k19 . You can get it at most big hobby shops and hardware stores, if you don't want to order it from McMaster. You can draw the temper- soften it- by heating it red hot in a torch flame, then letting it cool to room temperature slowly. That will let you put a curving spiral into it, although you can get a little curve into the regular, hardened brass without doing all that. Or get #8121 (soft) or #8127 (hard) from K&S Brass. This is the product you see in the hobby stores and hardware places. Same stuff as from McMaster.

Geoff BC thanks

I'll bet you could, although it's more about handwork than electronics design. All the electronics are out of the box, from a hobby shop.

Hello, Gene! I'm very glad you like this. It wasn't my intention to make a tutorial in this case- I'm a propmaker with 30 years of experience and knowledge, and honestly, it took me a fair amount of work to come up with this workable, reliable design. You'll understand, I'm sure, that I don't want to just give the knowledge away, since I make money from regular rentals of this radio controlled prop, and also the "kit" rose rental (see my other video). But between these two videos, if you're clever with your hands, you should be able to figure out some of the techniques I used. Best of luck!

It would work, though not as big a plume, I imagine. This was a five gallon tank, I think. Quick calculation, I think six liters is about 1.5 gallons? And your half inch ports have an area cross section of about a third of the one inch ports. Most important is to know the CV of the valve- the throughput. A big valve, with big pipe threads, can still not let much air through at once. Worth a try, if you have the parts around. But if you're going to buy an expensive valve, compare the CV. My guess, off the top of my head, you're likely to only get 20% of the result of the mortar I demonstrate here.

Thanks for that, I got a 1 inch port welded on instead and I'm purchasing a 1 inch solenoid so that should give me a bigger blast. unfortunately companies here in Ireland don't seem to use CV values. here's a link to the solenoid I am going to purchase. ie.rs-online.com/web/p/solenoid-valves/5295304/

seems to be KV over here which is slightly different, the solenoid has a flow rate of 9.5m3/hr which is 158 lt/m. Do you think thats good enough?

No arduino- there's no need. Just a three channel RC car controller. Three servos are inside the base.

Geoff BC very cool, are the pedals magnetic attached to fishing line ? when the servos move, they lose the magnetic connection? im asking becsuse i am attempting to.build one myself. i love your work, especially the reblooming at the end . fantastic job

Thanks very much! The petal release is achieved with small tempered steel wires, that retract into brass tubing, a little larger than the wires. Each petal has a similar piece of tubing about 1/2" long. These go over the steel wires, that stick about 1/2" out of the ends. When the steel wires retract into the stem tubes, the petals drop off. It's a pretty good system, as long as the wires stay straight. When it fails to work, it's always been because someone has put the petal back on the stem clumsily, and bent the wire at the end, so it jams in the tube. Magnets might be a better answer, if you can rig that up.

See my "kit rose" video, for closeups on the release mechanism at the top of the stem.

Geoff BC thank you so much.

Thanks for the tip! I don't know how much quicker the release could be- the expensive, brass high CV valve I have on this rig seems to dump 90% of the air in this tank in about a quarter of a second, but if there's something out there that's cheaper and faster, I'd be happy to use it. Also, do the tire bead valves you mention have a zero OPD (operating pressure differential?) That's critical here, since there's no backpressure on the mortar throat. Thanks! (CV stands for "coefficient of flow", and should be on the spec sheet of any valve. It shows the amount of resistance of air going through the open valve. I can't remember what my valves are rated, but it was pretty high. If anyone goes shopping for valves for this purpose, that's the crucial number to compare. And zero OPD. And cost, of course. ;)

No, George Lucas looks like me. ;)

Ohhhhhh ok.

Good idea, but I think I'll leave it for now. It's done that noise since I was a kid. I'd miss it! ;)

Why my "IF" was capitalized....