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At some point all 4 5HP versions develop 1st gear howl "whuuuuu". This is probably gears meshing. I can not explain why it happened after removing the tail piece. I do not recommend shimming too tight but it is probably safe to experiment with 0.25mm extra per try. Shimming too tight will compress the driveline too much. The shimming allows the driveline to grow if needed and makes sure there is no preload on all parts.

@@poeliewoelie1987Ok, then I will open it and adjust the end play between 0.15 - 0.35mm as you said. I will try to make it close to 0.15mm, I hope the howling is because of the loose needle bearing, the one just other side of the parking gear. If the howling is because of the gears meshing the shimming will not eliminate it I guess. Thank you!

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@@wellnessinfo270 I would do 10 if all is extremely dry but if it is still oily, maybe 8. Keep in mind torque wrenches deviate the most in the lower numbers. Preferably you use your wrist and a small ratchet.

@@GTman1972 Send me a link to your Facebook here and I will send a message.

@@moremolecules Thank you!

Vien

@@wellnessinfo270 Pushing the packndown by hand but not too much and raising the snap ring with gauges as much as you reasonably can. This is the free float that the pack will have when NOT engaged. Too littoe free float = burn. Too much free float = bad timing of engagement.

Thanks Frank. For example, for cluth c pump, the clearance is shown between 0.95 and 1.25. I increased the ring from 1.6mm to 1.8mm. When I measure the cluth c pump with a feeler gauge on the 1.8 mm ring and press it firmly, I measure 0.95-1-1.25 and even 1.30. But I don't know if I'm pressing too much. Do you think I did it right or wrong?

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@@wellnessinfo270 With the C1 on the back of the pump you can insert the feeler gauge from the side through the teeth. If the feeler gauges an pushbthe pack and ring away from each other, measurement is correct, no manual force needed on c1.

thanks a lot frank

@@JUK3RRR Is the wiring and computer also replaced? Else the computer gets the wrong signals.

@@poeliewoelie1987 I'm done the complete swap with wiring and TCU from the e39 pre face (mine also pre face) form the shift problem i suspect the tcu but the knocking noise(loud) are more concern to me

@@JUK3RRR Make a movie, upload to tube and paste the link here.

im not sure that fail tcu can cause any physical knocking noise? is it possible? but the noise problem occur when doing hard turn or sometime it just come when idle or moving, but the sound gone when car start to accelerate. its just random, which is PITA

@@JUK3RRR Bearing failure but i need to hear it.

@@denniedelepper5979 describe in which gears and when it slips.

@poeliewoelie1987 about every 10 seconds in every gear when driving at a fixed speed. when the gearbox in on temp, it violently kicks into first gear when i leave the stop light. It also refuses to go into reverse at idle speed, i have to use some extra throttle.

I think A drum cracked (pack free floats and only barely holds) or just general wear and tear. And the upper valve body cracked, R and D on at the same time and you need throttle to drive away in R or D to overcome the other. This also means burn damage to the steels if you have been driving like this for a while.. This sounds typical for a 5HP24 that needs a good rebuild.

E34 NL BE facebook group or paste your contact here.

Thank you for your view and comments!

@@d3lbo1 In what gear?

@@poeliewoelie1987 in all gears, but is very noticeable in the first 3 gears. with a hot engine it struggles to climb a small step of 3cm

@@d3lbo1 It slips while in gear? It can also be the converter. Have you removed the pan? Color, smell and debris will tell you more. What engine do you have?

@@poeliewoelie1987 yes, it slides while in motion. the oil smelled exhausted, the color was not bad. I changed the oil and filter but the problem remained. bmw e36 325i

First you fill the torque converter for 40%. If you fill over 50, it drops out. Keep the converter upright and a bit inclined so you have about +/- 40% fill. Put the box on a jack right before you install it to the car. Now look into the pump and you will see the 2 notches. This shows you how the converter must be positioned. Do it WRONG the first time intentionally, put the notches of the converter against the notches of the pump (dont force it). You will feel that this can not be right as the converter sticks out too much. Now do it again but do it the right way, the notches of your converter will fall into the notches of your pump. You will now see the converter falls into the bellhousing about as much as the stickout of the starter wheel on the car. This way you did it right. If you now gently turn the converter you will see you can not really move it anymore as it now connects to the pump. DO NOT INSTALL the converter to the car before you mount the box. Doing so will make you damage the pump 99% chance.

@@poeliewoelie1987 thank you. yesterday me and my friend was trying to install the torque converter 5 hours with no luck. I just toke to the professional guy he owns his transmission shop and he is also was trying to install the torque converter about 45 min and it's still without any luck.

​@@armenianman5826 You may have the wrong converter or input shaft. The 6 cylinder gas and diesel have a short input shaft and thinner converter. The V8 has a longer input shaft for the big V8 style converter. Check your gearbox code and converter code.

@@poeliewoelie1987 about 8 months ago I bought really nice 1994 BMW 530i with 221000 miles. auto tranny. black exterior. I really like my car. The rear crankshaft seal was leaking. I toke out tranny and replaced the real seal on engine and front seal on tranny. Yesterday I order the 10 liters of top-tek 1200 ATF oil. I will check today if my converter have E18 code and let you know if it's right converter I have.

@@poeliewoelie1987 I have right converter it's says E18 which is right one for V8 3.0 E34 motor. Still have hard time to install back to box.

I am in the E34 NL BE group so if you paste my movie there and shout out for me, I will reply to you.

Check on FBook

When you engage "R" and you let go of the brake (no accelerator), does it start to crawl in R immediately? Or does it take some time and do you have to use the accelerator to go reverse?

5 on a row: 30 - 34 ohm 1 on the side: 30 - 34 ohm Pressure on the side: 5.2 - 6.8 ohm

@@poeliewoelie1987 Thank You a lot!!!

ZF still sells them. Google 5HP18 pdf and you get the numbers.

NDE: 15x35x13 DE loose fit: 17x52x16 DE tight fit: 15x52x16 Google a bearing website and enter these numbers. You will get the names from different brands. FAG SKF KOYO NSK is AAA but I am confident on Chinese bearings.

@@poeliewoelie1987 Thank you for your kind help.Very best regards from Tokyo Japan.

4->3 and 3->2 = Most of the time, pressure losses in the valve body meaning that the gear is not "catching" properly and you will experience a rough shift. You can fix this problem by cleaning the valve body and installing a new gasket, but if the valve bores are worn out, you need a new valve body. 5HP18 bodies sometimes have broken accumulators in the valve body which can cause this. It could also be engine failure. If the motor cannot deliver rated torque due to bad sensors or vacuum issues, the box will not shift properly either. Çoğu zaman valf gövdesindeki basınç kayıpları, dişlinin düzgün şekilde "yakalanmadığı" ve sert bir vites değişimi yaşayacağınız anlamına gelir. Valf gövdesini temizleyip yeni bir conta takarak bu sorunu çözebilirsiniz ancak valflerin delikleri aşınmışsa yeni bir valf gövdesine ihtiyacınız vardır. 5HP18'de bazen valf gövdesinde kırılan akümülatörler bulunur ve bu da buna neden olabilir. Motor arızası da olabilir. Motor, kötü sensörler veya vakum sorunları nedeniyle nominal torku sağlayamıyorsa kutu da düzgün şekilde kaymayacaktır.

@@poeliewoelie1987 valf bölgesini temizledim contasını değiştirdim. Yine aynı problem devam ediyor. Ayrıca şanzımanda yeşil etiket var. Bu şanzımana ekleyeceğim yağ tam olarak nedir

@@autocarcareservice8962 LT71141 oil spec. Kilometresi ne kadar?

@@poeliewoelie1987 400 bin km balata değişimi yaptım geçen sene fakat piston oring setlerini değiştrmedim sadece balata setini değiştirdim

@@autocarcareservice8962 2->3 vardiyanız nasıl? Bu kilometrede sızdıran contalar ve eski bir valf gövdesi derdim. Valf gövdesinin basınç testine tabi tutulması gerekir.

Black tag: Any DEXRONIII Green tag: Any LT71141

The valve body on this transmission is pretty solid. Compared to the 5HP19 and 5HP24 there are no drum breaking issues and compared to the 5HP24 and 5HP30, valve body parts are not known to crack. There is a small check ball in a cup that can break and the accumulator pistons SOMETIMES break. Fairly easy to replace and this would give you very bad shifting as those accumulators are needed for soft shifts.

Thanks for your reply! I sometimes get an transmission error by shifting in manual mode, in auto mode never. In the error it states something with speed signal sensor. Another symptom comes most times when i drive uphill (in auto mode) after the clim where the road is flat again when I accelerate the transmission wont shit up and stays in the gear for some seconds.

@@bigdeal87 Staying in gear CAN be for extra cooling after pulling hill (faster spinning pump) or maybe the gearbox is programmed to think that you may climb again. This can be pure programming. Manual mode not working properly: Are you using a PRND +- shifter or a PRND432 shifter?

DIY job with a gearbox that still works kinda ok is about 800-1000 euros and includes a rebuilt converter. In this case you do not need a new valve body.

I would say worn clutches and you need a rebuild. Descent: Engine braking lets the clutch slip Hard acceleration: Engine torque lets the clutch slip

The lever that hits into the geared wheel. This lever has a notch that can break when the transmission gets old.

Where is the lever located?

even tho my torque converter is moving