Відео

Just joining in, as ui picked up a Talking House, version 5. This unit has minimal hum right out of the bow, using the original adapter, through a surge protector to a properly grounded outlet. Wire just draped across to a curtain rod, full length at about a 45° angle. Using a run of the mill AM/FM portable it goes about 60 feet. In a car it goes nearly ¼ mile. Frequency is set to 1600, driven by a NOAA weather radio, line out with no distortion at all. I do get a significant amount of a phasing riding along with the carrier, modulated. At 540, the signal is very clear with nary a trace of hum, nor the phasing issue. I have heard what appears to be a click, very much like an internal switch in the ATU adjustment stage, when scanning from a low to high frequency and visa versa. This unit has no been molested. Gathering all tips and tricks before I experiment. Very nice video, by the way.

Used a pair of these for a monoblock headphone amplifier

on a road trip oct 2023 I used it to start a minivan for some woman.

It started my 2.8 SAAB and that car needs a lot of cranking amps. I'm happy w/ mine. I have not use the tire inflator.

Just curious before I break into some of my UPS units (warranties of current units I have in use are starting to expire)... Does anyone know if high power *_Cyberpower_* UPS boards have similar readily accessible adjustments (in particular to set float voltage)? Better yet, can anyone point to anyone who has posted details on the Cyberpower internals, torn them down, etc? I'm guessing the high power APC units I have are probably patterned somewhat similarly to the unit "Obsession of the Month" is dealing with in this vid, so I'm focussing on the Cyberpower units for the moment. I've been searching online for awhile and not finding anything very useful regarding detailed examinations/discussions of Cyberpower UPS internals. I've got a mix of APC and Cyberpower all 1000-1500 (highest rated unit handles 900Watts), and EVERY unit I've measured maintains a float voltage that by a fair amount exceeds 14V on each 12V battery (including the units that use 2x12V batteries in series). Some of them are floating the batteries considerably above any recommended range I've seen for this class of battery, which can significantly reduce the lifespan of these SLA/AGM batteries (e.g. a battery that should last about 5 years lasting closer to just 2-3 years or so).

That bracket on ours broke in exactly the same place and I did the same type or repair twice. Found your video looking for the light bulb. Thanks for the part number. This old microwave far superior to anything you can buy new.

Que líquido se usa para limpiar? Gracias

Tq for posting, it helped. (12/Aug/2024-9:29pm🇦🇺EST)

Thanks, useful video

… so I have a cheap clamp meter that I purchased just over a year ago and never used as the thing I purchased it for never happened. Today I took it out of the drawer and when I switch the clamp meter to DC amps I get a O.L reading on both the 60 amp and 600 amp settings…? The AC seems to work fine? Anyway, I’ll try what you’re suggested, but I am not holding out too much hope. Thank you for the video.

I came across your video looking for information on using this tuner without the control panel but with PC control using a specialized cable. I know it can be done, I am holding the cable in my hand trying to find another or the schematics to make one. I used to have a dc powered mini-itx pc mounted in my Blazer. Since I mounted the touch display where the factory head unit was located I lost my tuner (all audio was run through the PC and out to amplifiers, the audio output from the Visteon was handled with a cable I made myself that used an audio cable from an optical drive to RCA outputs, I almost installed the same connector on the Visteon) I think the reason they stopped the production of these units was BECAUSE they could be PC controlled... meaning you can tune to an HD station, have your PC record digital audio with (hopefully) correct tags, make mp3 files named and tagged, and store away, legally... public broadcast. If you would like I can get you more info on the cable, I am trying to re-learn how I did this over a decade ago lol.

I have a similar mower from Canadian Tire using that engine. It’s mounted 180° from yours (spark plug at front/fuel tank towards back)

I do have one of these. I might have bought it easily 12 years ago. I used it for a few years with 2TB drives. I programmed it to switch on every day for an hour and I had a backup software that was backing up my important stuff to the NAS on daily basis. With the cost of the NAS and the 2 TB drives I think I spent more than was really necessary. I could have gone for a cheaper solution. I haven´t used it in several years and I agree the User Interface sucks, but I never had a problem. I was wondering if I could sell it second hand, and I´ve found your video. Now that I see it is problematic and kind of garbage I probably will take it to the electronics disposal center.

Great job man

Forget that imma make one lol

Ive had one of these for 2 years now, it does NOT require you hook a hose up to it!, Im in HUMID mississippi and Ive never had this thing leak water., and Ive never hooked a hose up to it. mine works perfectly.

9v Swap the trim pot for a capicitor or across leg 1 and leg 8 of the transistor. Can be piggyback but noisy

Using mine to make guitar pedals

Thanks for the good video. Few questions: Why using this BMS, if this module has a protection? 2) How to set the output voltage?

Nice! I have a similar device from Viking. I use it to test the fax 📠 on (multifunction) printers I repair. ☎️ 📞

First

Nice

Name of the app please? I don't have QR code

I just bought the GMT-312 . Once the battery was in ,it worked for testing dc voltage and dc amps . Then stopped dead . Opened it up again and found a fuse . A kids fuse that blows at 0.2A/ 250V . designed to fail from the get go .Replaced with a 1.25A / 250 V fuse . Works fine now . What a Micky Mouse fuse to install . All it does is panic the user into think that they have bought an expensive piece of junk that I now have to take back to point of purchase for repairs or replacement .Shame on BG Instruments !! ........

You can't push the volume button in because the knob appears to be up against the box. Ditto on the "manual."

Can you also use a 18 volt power pack with a plug like a laptop charger to power this up just wondering

I think that your L/C Circuit at the antenna input doesnt have to much "Q". You have a very "broad" tuning and one reason for that could be a bad "Q" of the coil. Are you sure you have connected ALL different wires of the litz wire arround your loopstick antenna? They all have to be selected and soldered with no one left out! - Otherwise this will damage "Q" of your Antenna Coil... how about that?, Heinz, DE0RST

Is there a way to check battery percentage? Thanks!

I have APC Back-UPS 650VA, 230V BK650MI, must a ups be turned on to charge it?

Hi! I have the same (unswitchable) automatic charger but the alligator clips broke off of the wires, would you be able to tell me which is the positive on the connector that connects to the main body?

In my case (in the same machine), it is the opposite: the original HDD connector works fine, but there are problems with the DVD drive connector.

Greetings from Sweden! You, Sir, just got yourself a new subscriber and a thumps up 🎉

Uh, uh, uh

I've got one of these, bought in about 2006/7 with 4 2TB devices. Worked perfectly for a great many years, only ever had to change a single drive once, about 2015,, and the system rebuilt fine and has worked fine since. However in the last month it suddenly just lost the entire configuration and therefore all the data. Found this video when trying to find help on restoring the existing data. According to the NAS firmware (as you say it really is incredibly simplistic) all the drives are fine, just no volume to store data on, and the only way to create a volume formats all the disks and therfore loses the data that I hope is still on there, just currently inaccessible.

I no longer own this jump starter. after replacing the batteries in it 3 times I parted it out and bought a lithium ion jump starter that will last 10 years at least. ua-cam.com/video/6nk9MnGklTk/v-deo.html all the information I have about the jump starter is in the video. I will not answer questions about this jump starter as it is over 15 years old.

U have a video using it?

Donde puedo conseguir el control de on/off de uno de eso

Dam were did you find the lead paint, lead paint is a good EM shield 😎probably helps shielf from the bases radar also. Good you worked it out instead of creating electronic waste.

How do you use this tool. It was gave to me because he didn't know what it is used for. Does anyone know.

AEL Meaning AUTO TRACKING?

I have one for sale...wondering how to price it.

The charge indicator.top is green bottom red .how will I know when charged .what should the lights be doing

em português o meu não funciona

Which is the resistor to adjust the accuracy, the one that is on it's higher model, please reply

I got this -at Ace, on a whim, for a home test- and opted for this model because it needed a common battery vs an obscure size. But also great point about the extreme element effect on LCD display failure.

Piece of s**t. Kinks up and stays that way, cheap plastic tip breaks off with little resistance. 0/5.

OK thanks much for replying

I have the one with the automatic switch. I recently plugged in a voltmeter while charging and it was charging at 15.3V. I think this is not right. Please let me know what you think. My other maintainers are charging at 13.3V. Thanks for your help.

AGM batteries last a long time well taken care of not under or overcharging, using proper way bring them a full charge . I bought a Napa legend AGM in 2015 the battery still Rock solid ,one thing I done kept it charged or let it sit long periods at a weak charge ,

Thanks a lot man, i got two for really cheap. Apart from the wiring diagram, i love that you included the partno. for the female connector!! Keep it up dude