Відео

I haven’t had any issues with the rivnuts. I’ve put over 4k miles on some pretty rough roads. If you’re worried about it you could always use plusnuts.

Plusnuts ordered! Thank you.

there really isn't any, the bus bar is rated for 1000 amps and very rarely do people actually use it that high up so this still perfectly ok taking a few hundred amps

I’m honestly not sure. We mostly work on smaller 12v systems.

This went into a 12V system and is perfectly suited for the application. Also the 48v rating on the Victron switch is for nominal voltage on the switch and its max voltage rating is 60v. Using a Victron switch this setup would be perfectly acceptable on a 48v system not exceeding a 275amp continuous draws. As I did state on a different comment I would now recommend running either a Victon or Blue Sea switch as I have seen one of these Spartan switches fail (one of a dozen I’ve installed). As far as a breaker goes I don’t understand how flipping a breaker or flipping a switch would make any difference in how the system was disconnected from the batteries so please do explain.

@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers In a word, Arc Extinction, when the DC circuit is under load, the high currents can cross the narrow bridge on a switch connection if dis-connected under load. Arc Extinction is a suppressor built into DC breakers, dont take my word for it, do the research. The Victron switch does provide this protection, and is rated for 60v.

The Victron Disconnect Switch does not have any "Smothering" arc fault protection in it. It's a "Disconnect Switch" rated for 275 amps nothing else. As you need an AC\DC Arc fault Breaker like the ones ABB makes for anything like you described. So I suggest you take one apart and look inside. I would add 48v is not the max rating. It's the Nominal Operating range for these types of Disconnects. As most are rated way above 48 volts to meet UL listing requirements.

@@MasterChief4U Noted.

I used a 300amp Spartan switch but switched it out for a Blue Sea. A Spartan switch I recently installed failed and got pretty hot so I no longer trust that switch. I brought it up with Spartan and it was a know problem 🫣.

I wouldn’t worry about extending it and just double up two on the smaller loads of the Lynx distributor. Always put the smaller of the loads on the stud second. If you were looked to extend the positive side I’d suggest adding a second Lynx distributor but the negative can be doubled up without issue.

The ones I have seen are larger in size. I gave Amazon a quick look and didn’t see anything small enough to fit.

Thanks for watching and for the compliment. The smaller wire for the lynx distributor circuit board needs to be reduced to 5v. The link in the description of the 5v reducer should do it. It’s rated for 6v-24v to 5v. If you’re actually running a 25.6v or slightly over 24v system, it’s probably still fine, but I would check it to ensure a 5v output with a multi-meter just to be safe.

​@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers hey, thanks for the response. I see now that the stepdown regulator can handle 24v. I'll test it to be sure as the batteries charge up to 28.8v. Thanks again.

Quadratec CJ Retro Alloy Wheel

The shunt draws less than one mA so its not a concerning power draw. By placing the shunt before the switch it enables the user to monitor the battery status even when the battery is disconnected from the system.

It’ll be just fine. Make sure to put the cover on before you drill out the holes so no metal shaving get onto the circuit board. Deburr the edges and put a little dielectric grease on the exposed copper after drilling.

This one comes in just over 800lbs

Pp

Thank you

Drive fast, take chances! This one is still for sale.

Thanks!

We initially only planned on doing a modest lift. We started with synergy 3” springs and lift components all around, and the rear sagged a little too much for our liking. We then switched to Dobinson HD 3” springs on the rear. Although it did keep the rear end up, the ride was a bit ridged. We eventually landed on using 3” synergy springs in the front and 4” springs in the rear. The ride is plush and it handles👌🏼

The wheels, tires, shocks, lift, regear, lockers, bumper, winch, seats, graphics, radio, etc, will run roughly 24k. The campers is about 30k. We really went for it on this one. It could be done for less using more modest components.

Thanks, the price for the combo is 105k.

Alright DragonHammer, I’m assuming you want a pass-through to the cab. I’d be happy to build it for you. Where do I look you up?

Thanks! We really enjoyed building this one.

We can make that happen!

Will happily deliver 😀

Funny you said that. The back wall has a section framed out behind the panels for a 5000btu AC unit. The full retro theme isn’t off the table!

Sorry I messed up on my first search. Found then now. Great idea