Відео

No, sounded and worked absolutely as normal, didn’t seem to have that kind of effect. There was a massive drop in coolant level, so you wouldn’t miss it. Depending on the damage to the water pump, it may make noise if the bearings would collapse even if it would still seal without visible leak, should produce a leak and it would go through weep holes on the pump cover. Unless some idiot blocked them with silicone, as it happened on mine. Check for water in oil, as it can happen.

Both TopDon and Autel have very similar functions, both can program the gearbox, I only swapped as I’ve had Autel in the past and bought it since I’m more familiar with it. Got used to TopDon though and found it easier to operate despite being used to Autel. Both are very similar in operation and both as capable. You can perform this programming with either of them.

It’s best to use some fuel additive, I’ve used Starbrite Startron, it stabilised the fuel and helped with all rubbers and washed the gunk away. It cleans as it’s running through carbs. Best thing would be to have a short run on the bike every two months or so, but it’s not always possible, as running it on idle, especially on older bikes can clog up the plugs. On the other hand, it will keep the carbs lubricated and fresh, so I think it’s better anyway.

It turned out to be just an ABS sensor, that’s all. But was harder to diagnose due to showing random errors. There will be a video on my Superb that had similar problem but keeps coming up with even more random fault codes. Skoda shows both rear and one front sensor, but CC was more consistent and showing only both rear ones, one was actually damaged.

@@signummotors very good glad to hear you resolved issue with relatively low cost. I have this same issue at the moment, with the abs kicking I'm giving the grinding noise and vibration in brake pedal. The problem originated after a car wash and me hitting electric park brake while still moving. So not sure which action caused the fault. OBD11 showing multiple faults of the following : left abs wheel sensor, tire pressure monitoring control module, steering assistance brake control module. I will change rear left abs/speed sensor. Subscribed to your content.

I always suggest to replace both, as they’ve been both installed new at the same time and age at the same rate, hence I’d get them replaced together as well, since they both can cause issues if they start to go bad. And again, given the amount of issues they may cause, most not even suggesting bad battery - I’d get both replaced. As for the status of the battery replaced - the old battery from my wife’s 330e is still going strong in my old T4 without issues, so as much as the battery wasn’t ‚faulty’ as such, the sophisticated BMW system didn’t like it anyway. Hope it will cure the problem, don’t forget to code the new battery in with correct capacity.

@signummotors Thanks for the reply. I'll try this and reply back here with the outcome. On a separate note, do you have any idea what this code is about "2228D3 Starter Unit, intelligent battery sensor (IBS) of auxiliary battery: faulty." Where can I get the part?

@@zahrayusuf1482 It could be caused by the battery itself if it is failing slowly, as this is the problem, battery will not show a code for 'battery faulty, change battery', but will instead come up with tons of random faults, some of them not even suggesting battery problem. On the other hand, it could be a faulty sensor, cannot eliminate that as if there was some mechanical damage, or even a mouse / rat at times gets at your wiring, so I'm afraid there's no easy answer, but fliukes caused by a failing battery are common on this car. Hence I'd get both done at the same time. Hope this helps.

That’s a blessing in disguise when you find such an easy and logical yet easily overlooked explanation. And best of all, if it doesn’t cost you anything to fix. Unusual on newer cars unfortunately… Just had a long trip in a Skoda - due to one ABS sensor failing I’ve lost ABS, ESC, active cruise control and automatic hand brake. Also my trip computer got lost due to that. A lot of things gone due to a fluke in one sensor. And the worst part is - it’s intermittent…

I had a similar issue at some stage, to be honest I can’t remember what I’ve done, but managed to sort it, will check my notes and try to retrace what I’ve done and get back to you.

@@signummotors ok thank you

I’ve made couple videos on this bike, there will be a page on our website that will organise the videos a little, so you can easier find relevant content, for instance select ‘Suzuki’ and then ‘GSX600F’ and this will get you to a page with links to all our videos on this bike, few more weeks it will be ready. There are more if you search through browser, or scroll through all previous ones.

That’s what I mean, something that shouldn’t cause any improvement, did. This battery shouldn’t influence performance, but it controls a lot of modules, in turn causing other issues. Glad it helped! Enjoy your car again!

It’s normally due to failed DPF regeneration, there should be indication that it’s being burnt off, but there is none. If you turn the engine off whilst it’s burning the soot off, DPF will be affected and extra fuel will get down the sump diluting oil. It’s not just Kuga, it’s on Opel Insignia and many others - there should be a light telling you that the procedure is taking place and not to turn off the engine until it’s completed. Newer Focus have got a warning message not to switch engine off when it’s regenerating the DPF, so they realised that there is a problem. As for the oil changes, I’d recommend oil change every 8000, if in harsh environments - even 6000. 15000 seems too high and will affect longevity of your engine. Also make sure you use oil appropriate for the climate you’re in, as it changes in different countries (viscosity). Hope this helps. PS: On Vauxhall Insignia there was a ‘hack’ to install a little LED that would tell you when regen takes place, I’ll see if you can do similar thing on a Ford.

Thank you so much for the information. Yup mine is the same in you pic of your video 2013 Kuga Titanium AWD. Am I correct in saying this is happening because my wife is using it only around town not doing more than 5 to 8 km drive at a time..... I should get it on the open freeways for a bit ?

@garethtaylor9044 Correct, you should do a longer run every other week or so. Failing that, you can do so called ‘static regeneration’ using diagnostics, but it’s much better to do it whilst driving. I’d get it checked to see what level of ash / soot you’ve got in your DPF, you could remove it as the DPF blocked will in turn cause your turbo to go. Same goes with diluted oil, it will damage both the engine and the turbo, hence I’d recommend changing oil sooner. The car in video is my fiend’s wife car that she’s using for short trips only. For this type of driving I’d get a petrol car, or made sure it gets longer trips regularly. Hope this helps. Google ‘Forscan’ cable / dongle / software. This is cheap and works good on Ford cars, will give you some insight without costing you much.

​@signummotors thank you so much 🙏

@garethtaylor9044 Glad I could help, hence I posted the video, as most people don’t realise there is a problem until it’s too late and they have to spend some serious money to rectify it.

Will try to find it, but not sure if I still got paperwork here.

There's loads of choices, you can get a cable on sites like eBay, that will most likely come with a link or CD with ISTA - same software I've used here, but you can also use most diagnostic machines if you've got one available, there are even things you can get for your phone, like Bimmercode (expensive though) - this one will allow you to do a lot more, as you can code extra options and things not normally accessible on BMW - and you only need the software, Bluetooth dongle (double check which one will work) and your phone or tablet.

If you're after the steering wheel - it's sold; if the T4 - that's still with me and not going anywhere at the minute. :)

Didn’t experience that, but will see if I’ll find an answer. W212? I’ll check on my ones.

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped you, enjoy your bike, one of my favourite simple all rounders, it actually ticks a lot of boxes.

There was no separate option for the auxiliary battery, I'd presume both were supposed to be replaced at the same time, also due to the reduced load and slow charging rate of this battery I don't think it needs to be regulated as much as the main battery.

These two engines are too far apart I think, 270 is an older generation with different injectors, pump, etc. The 220 is the more modern engine, so as much as the immobiliser will work with the ECU, it will not be able to run the engine properly - if it won't get destroyed - I wouldn't even attempt to start tinkering this way, as you can cause some damage. You can do more damage then good, either find a car with another 220cdi engine, even if you'd use a C-class there's less chance it would work in the wrong way than trying another E-class with different engine setup. I'd get another ECU kit and start there, the more you're willing to try before you do that, the more money you waste looking for a solution that at least partially works. Hope this helps.

You are right..I will do some research to find a 220 cdi ecu kit..so even if it’s different oem Numbers it will work? Thank you for thé answer

@@RobertMihai05 As long as the mercedes part number (normally starts with A211 or similar) is the same, then they should work. I would opt to get one that is as close as possible, including year, HW revision, SW version, etc. There's plenty of them about, as once you've got it running - unless it was exactly the same model and specs - you will need to code the options on your car (parking sensors, heated seats, etc.) but again, depending on how much you'll replace as some of the info is inside SAM for example and not just the ECU. Hope this helps.

Glad it helped you! That's the whole purpose of this channel - to help people save money and prepare for the task with minimal chances of breaking anything - please like and subscribe to help the channel grow!

Glad it helped you! Yes, instead of unplugging things you can move cables out of the way, just remember to put it back into grommets, as you don't want them rubbing against metal, as this will come back and bite you if you'd forget :) Also you've got to be careful not to stretch them too much, but providing there's enough space - I'd leave some connectors alone. Yet, if you do open them now and then, they will not seize up too much. It sometimes helps to spray a connector like this with silicone spray, as it will lubricate it and free it up. I'd also avoid removing anything plastic when it's cold, as there's a high chance of snapping what should not be snapped. Please like, share and subscribe to help the channel grow! Thanks for watching!

I'd drain it after replacing the pump, as during replacement of the pump you might get some leak into the internals of the engine and it will land in your sump - so I'd complete the pump replacement and after it's sealed (put deionised water in first before coolant - just to test, after all it's the cheaper 50% of the mix...) and it's not leaking - then replace the oil. If your oil isn't full of water, you may run the engine to warm it up and make draining oil easier, I didn't have that comfort, as there was about two litres of coolant in my oil already... Glad I've timed it right! :)

The bleeding procedure is not correct. First bleed the bleed nipple on the thermostat housing, then the nipple on the top of the pipe .

​@@signummotorsuld it not be better to do the following.1. Replace new pump. 2. Drain old oil mixed with water . 3. Remove sump cover completly and use a clean rag to wipe the sides with carburettor cleaner. Then wipe again with a clean rag , check sump gasket and put back the sump. New coolant to spec , and new oil , oil filter, . Comments please.

It could be if plugs are naff, but t's more likely to be air/fuel mixture, which is calibrated by the car - based on data received from sensors. Spark plugs I'd change just to be on the safe side, if you don't know when they've been done - just have them replaced. Not a massive cost, will improve performance and economy and may help resolve your issue. As for the MAF sensor - get MAF cleaning spray, remove it and clean it - only use the spray, don't try to touch the wire inside as it's fragile. Spray should help. Also, how old is your air filter? Last thing, check the level of engine oil, as if one of your injectors is leaking, you might find level of your oil raise, this is rather rare, but always worth a check. Are you up to date with all servicing? I'd skip the recommended service intervals if you like your car and just do oil every 6000-8000 miles or every year. Back in the day, we were changing oil on a brand new car on the run-in period, due to parts starting to work together producing micro shavings, etc.

Hi, yes I change the oil and oil filter every 6000 miles and haven’t changed the air filter in the the 7 months I’ve owned it, but will change the air filter, get the MAF spray and clean that and also get the spark plugs changed as not too sure when or if it was done. Oil level is fine between min and max, gonna get those all done and will hopefully have the problem resolved, thanks for the detailed reply appreciate it👍🏻

@@Aad4696 Just a tip - air filter on this car cost me around £50-£60, so inspect it first, if it is fairly fresh, you may as well leave it, but if it looks like more than year old, swap it, especially if it looks dirty, I've seen cars with 70k miles with original filter still... Spark plugs can make a difference and again, it's a good measure to change them as if they are left alone for too long there's more chance of snapping them on removal. Not on a car of this age, but in general. I think the most likely issue will be dirty MAF sensor. Check also for any rub marks or cuts on the air duct, as if it's getting extra air through a crack somewhere, this will alter the mixture without the 'brain' knowing and will throw a code. Sometimes something isn't pushed all the way, etc. Good luck and have fun with it!

Yeah got the air filter for a decent price at £30 from Halfords for a Bosch one, did the spark plugs also and the cars running smooth as a whistle now thank god, been a few days in and no lag or juddering anymore. I’ve ordered the MAF cleaner but hasn’t arrived yet, once I get it will clean it just for good measure, thanks again bud👍🏻

It was an AGM battery, as per BMW specs, didn't alter any details when registering as it was the same as the one previously installed BMW branded. That old battery still runs perfect in my old VW T4 as it goes, BMW claimed it needed to be replaced...

@@signummotors but I'm not interested in changing the regular battery I want to know how to register the auxiliary battery

@@kef103 Both were as per specs, there is no separate option for auxiliary or main battery programming, to my knowledge when you want to replace them, you replace both and register that fact. Thinking of it though, you don't need to register an aux battery on its own, since it's not directly charged from the alternator, programming the new main battery lowers the alternator output that was gradually increased as old battery was ageing - registering the replacement prevents overcharging brand new battery, hence the need for programming. If you plan to replace only the aux battery, I'd leave the programming alone. Or just replace both as it should be done, but that's a little expensive. Not mentioning cost of the hybrid battery... :)

Tried to find a way round it, don't think there is one, cheapest solution - and don't bother with people who may fix it using diagnostic stuff - is to replace ECU kit, as you'll pay around $100 or less now and this will work providing you get a kit for same model car. You may need to alter car configuration via diagnostics, but at least it will run (if it is all there mechanically). I wish I did. And never leave a key in the ignition when disconnecting the battery (EIS is live then); don't ask me how I know...

I'm 6'6" myself, I was riding it... Nor sure if it helps, you will dwarf the bike, but it's doable. It was more comfortable on this tiny Tammy than being stuck in the fairing of my 2012 Z1000SX, this one was cramped. It's not comfortable by any means, but I had fun on it for sure.

I've done it over a pit, so bit different. It won't be much of a problem to do over ramps as you've got the little flap to open, don't have to remove covers, etc. easy enough. Or you can dig a trench. :)

There are options for that, but as with all 'Professional Chinese' tools - you will find out when you get at it - I'd say 99% yes, but had some issues previously with Autel - the option was there but wasn't working on a particular model. You get the same with 'dealer level tools' from eBay, had it on a Lexia clone, where software would go into 'change additive bag' option, all would 'complete successfuly' only to come up with a message 'additive bag need replacing' right after. At the time a Launch tool sorted it out straight away, but that Launch tool wouldn't do things the Lexia clone was able to... You can't win, none will ever be on dealer tool level, they will try and most of the time work ok, but will loose now and then. For brake calipers and headlights though it should work, as it's less model dependant I guess, more of a general option on a BMW and more unified. To refrase it - yes, I think it should do it no problem, again, 99.9%, but can't guarantee as seen these (all brands, not only TopDon) fail at some tasks they should be able to do. You can't go wrong at this price point, even if you'd have to get to some things going around other options, it will work. TopDon is not too bad in my opinion, matter of preference, I'd go back to Autel maybe, as liked it more, but that's purely down to interface and little things, that's all. It's iPhone / Android kind of discussion as someone said once. Autel had me aggrevated over few things too - then again - you get constant updates, so most things that didn't work then, will work by now. At the end of the day - the device you are using to read this and most if not all of your car was made in China and they do work.

Not so much I had a problem, I bought a bike with knackered engine that came with a replacement engine, so wasn't that bad, apart from transferring parts over, sorting the timing, etc. Yes, if you catch it in time, it's only the cost of chain tensioners, that's the whole point of the video, to help people realise it's a ticking time bomb. And it doesn't take much effort or cost much to prevent the disaster. Swap them and enjoy it, these are great bikes - ride safe!

@@signummotors dude , the tensioner on the Amazon market is priced from 8euro to 40 euro . The 40 euro is the same 8 euro tensioner but from other saler :))

Hello there, it felt like warped brake discs, vibrating when braking felt on steering wheel, but also brake pedal pulse when pressed. Brake discs looked fine on the outside, not as bad to consider swapping them, yet on the inner side huge part of one disc oxidised, swell and started falling off.

I bought the whole ECU kit that included a lot of modules, all you really need is the main engine ECU, EIS (electronic ignition module) and ESL (electronic steering lock) - this should be enough to start the car, on my one I've replaced few more, due to being water damaged. And obviously a key that works with those modules. Hope this helps! PS: The ESL I just left connected, didn't replace one in the steering column, as long as it was disconnected in disengaged position.

Hello there! No, neither was faulty really, in fact, the larger AGM battery is still powering my VW T4, so it's far from bad, but with BMW with the amount of electronics, gadgets, gizmos and systems any fluctuation in the levels of battery power can throw problems at you. Whether it's the smaller battery or the larger one throwing faults, it's hard to establish. You could judge by what is happening, as the small battery is the AUX battery, mainly to keep essential systems alive and probably mainly to accomodate the electric part of the vehicle, but since they're both the same age (or should be at least), if one is slowly starting to fade or fail, the other one will too. Hence I'd rather replace both and have the peace of mind, especially on a car of this value and level of complicated electronics. Also, there is no way to reset individual batteries (battery replacement programming in ISTA or diag software), so I'd presume BMW would do both as well. It's like when you need to replace a wheel bearing or a shock absorber. Normally you'd need to replace only one as it's giving problems, but considering they work as a pair and you will literally feel the difference in case of shock absorbers - I'd just go for both, at least you know when you're still having problems, they are problems, not just ECU's brainfart caused by poor electricity delivery at some stage. Bit lenghty but I hope I got my point across. :)

I've replaced it with Napa AGM096N CCA760 70Ah 12V which had the same specs as the one that came out of it, it was OEM specified.

@@signummotors Thanks

This is off the original Mk1 Scirocco or Mk1 Golf GTI - they are great, but have a weak spot (obviously more pronounced as they age) - they tend to start releasing at random the clips holding horn button to the metal part; it's held on four 'split pegs' with springs around them, obviously, springs are pushing it off mounting points and with time those start to give up. Lovely wheel and gone quite pricey recently, I ended up selling mine as had it on a 1973 Beetle years back and said button started to fall out at random more and more, so as much as they look great, I wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver.

I'm glad it helped, I was moving things around the dash and half-pressed the button on my T4 at some point, I was going for MOT the same day and realised indicators don't work at all! After a panic attack I've started with the switch and it turned out to be the culprit, but my line of thinking was similar, as you do in such situation - you would not expect a switch would cause all this to happen... Glad it saved you going over all the obvious stuff.

I had the car over a pit, so yes, you would need to get under it to undo three bolts on the exhaust and two e-torx on cat bracket. Or dig a little trench and drive the car over it, should do the trick... :) Make sure the wheels are blocked with some chocks and it's on axle stand and won't fall on you. This can be nasty, so it's best to be prevented. As far as I remember they are the same on 1.2 petrol.

Thank you, glad I could help! I was inspired to get this silenced after moving a trailer on a yard, when I had to get in and out of the car several times and the sound just got to me a lot more than it should. Another car with so annoying sound is an Toyota Avensis - luckily, you can disable the reminder without any special tools, just a bit of magic. I do wear seatbelts - just to clarify, but when you park or drive around, etc. I do appreciate not having such reminders. We are all living in a nanny state anyway, so little things that are still are under our control are very much appreciated... :)

I get light error because i did install xenons but with bypass chip and i still get light error. Does it work the same way as the seatbelt warning you just showed in the video?

Don't worry, it's not slowly wearing out. If it was still running, it was all fine. If it would go a step too far on slack of the chain, it would go BANG and you'd know there is something to worry about. As long as you catch it in time, you'll be fine. They won't get bent through some wear, only complete failure results in this. No way you'd miss that happening, hence I posted it to make people more aware.

@@signummotors it was not still running, I was going down the road 9-10 months ago and I don’t remember a bang but I do remember the bike sounding muffled and I hit the gas and it did a muffled rev and wouldn’t go, like the clutch was pulled in but it wasn’t. I pulled over immediately and turned the bike off. It wouldn’t turn back on, and Shop said “timing chain tensioner failed and chain jumped timing, bike isn’t seized up but locked up from the chain” so took it to another shop that specialize in the superhawk aka vtr1000f aka firestorm

​@@SuperHawkVTR just wait for the verdict when they open the head, it may have but didn't have to cause failure, even if it did, it's still not the end of the world, done couple of them, it's just swapping the head or just valves if the head wasn't affected, it shouldn't damage pistons, etc. If the bike wasn't under load when it happened, it might be minor damage, so fingers crossed. What's annoying, Honda is aware of this issue and they should be responsible for that, but as most - they just don't want to know. As for parts - the other head can be modded to fit the faulty cylinder if I remember correctly, if you'd be stuck for parts, engine in question is still in my posession - if you can't find them, let me know and I can post valves / head to you. Got another engine sitting here - this was all good when removed, still in part of the frame if I remember correctly. Let's not jump to conclusions just yet, see what the shop says.

@@signummotors thank you so much, I greatly appreciate that!! Parts are definitely rare on these bikes I think Ive only seen 1 or 2 front heads on eBay it’s crazy! I will let you know tomorrow when I call the shop if they have an update

@@SuperHawkVTR I hope all goes well and you don't need that much for it. Fingers crossed.

Being a Volkswagen it starts off as a very basic car, yes, you can get them more sophisticated, but from the grounds up they are to be as plain as possible, adding extras will help, but then the price goes up significantly. If you look after them, they will serve well, yet there's quite a bit of little annoying electronical problems to be expected. More than I would want from something that should be basic, but just work.

It will impair the designated flow of oil, if it's in the wrong position it will stop it completely, I would get that off, dig the old piece out and replace it with a new part, as it might seem insignificant, but it will affect the correct oil flow / circulation, since I am not entirely sure where it goes through that, I would just advise to change it, to be on the safe side. It's fairly modern car and not one of the cheapest, so wouldn't chance it... It may run without problems, but I'm sure it's there for a reason. If there is no feed through that and it's just to locate the filter - then it might be ok, but not sure how deep the hole is and if it will get sucked into the oil ways, might block something somewhere. You should be able to dig it out with a wood screw driven into the remaining part or a hook, but be careful not to go to far, so you don't cause more damage. If in doubt, please seek help from a reputable garage - if you can find one around. Hope this helps.

Good to know, thanks for sharing, I just went the 'standard way' - I'd rather remove items and be able to see clearly what I'm doing, than brake them by accident... Makes sense though, will see next time. Thanks!

Glad it was useful!

Hi there, in all fairness, on this one it wasn't attached, just sitting in place, there were no screws holding it. We are talking about the lower cover just under the flat false floor under the boot?

Yes, it's the lower cover just under the false floor. I managed to get it off, removed 4 screws from the boot trim (boot edge)and the plastic retainer plug. I 'carefully' levered the lower cover away from the retaining trims. All good now and battery replaced. Thanks for the video, very helpful.