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Thank you, Sue!

Thank you!! What is that tool?

I usually have crowns available late October. Check etsy store. If you send me a message there, I can let you know when I have them available.

I don't use fungicide. Some folks spray a mixture of water, milk and baking soda. But, I have not tried that.

They grow 7 feet tall easily. Heavy feeder, do better in rich soil.

@@GardensofNewEngland Thank you

You're welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!! I am doing a big project on pollinator habitat! So I will be making more videos as I go. Thank you for the insight!

Worth trying!! I have used crab shells before but discontinued because it still had a bit of a seafood smell. Animals will break into your system if they smell something they would want to eat. So, if your system is outside, be careful.

You are welcome!

Wow!! Thank you!!

Thank you!!

Thank you!

Hi there, why are you trying to separate them? That is a big job and you can hurt the younger worms very easily. You could push some mesh and create some areas without food for worms to chill. Younger worms benefit from dry leaves because that create a lot of surface for them to inhabit. I would leave them be and focus on making sure there is plenty of bedding. About what scraps to feed the worms: worms do not eat food scraps, they eat the microbes feeding on the food scraps. Microbes feed on decomposing vegetable matter and bedding. Bedding like dry leaves is a big source of food. In a small bin, I would focus on adding lots of bedding and small amount of food scraps. Too much food scraps can easily heat up or go very acidic which can hurt the worms. Things like potato, apple and banana peels are good. Any type of green leaf vegetable that you would eat, the bin microbes will eat readily. Things to avoid are high concentrations of citrus, onions, cooked foods, dairy and fresh pineapple. Bedding is the key, specially for young worms. I hope that helps!

Thanks for sharing Cliff!! That's a great observation and supports the science behind biochar and microorganism--which feed the worms.

Save them to plant next year!!

Gary, you leave the top of the plants pretty much intact. What you ant to remove are the bottom leaves that are shadowed by the top leaves anyways.

I think that would work so long as the material is stable. For example, I wouldn’t add fresh blood or unprocessed bone to my bins. The other question is what is the goal? What would you want your accomplish with each amend.

@@GardensofNewEngland Hi, thank you for the speedy reply, much appreciated. I bought a VITAX Blood, Fish & Bone fertilizer 20KG bag. I imagine this would be stable. It is going to last me many many years, too many really, so plenty spare. As in your video using bone meal to increase Phosphorus seems a very good idea and rather than buying some bone meal I was hoping to be able to use some of the large bag of fertilizer mentioned above to achieve the same result, but with the added benefit of the other ingredients. Also I thought that the nutrients may be useable by the plants sooner as it has gone through the vernicompost process. Any feedback is very welcome. Have fun, Mark : )

@@madhat127 Got it!! Blood and fish are amazing and powerful for plants. They are readily available when you add them. Bone is mostly carbon and if you add it to the garden it needs to break down further. Bone is also a source of grit for the worms because it breaks down slowly. With blood, I would be more concerned about smells and the fact is that you can use it directly into the garden and see results quickly. Most people use blood as nitrogen fertilizer--If I am not mistaken. You can use some with the worms and see how it breaks down and whether or not it causes smells. But, I would not use a lot because it might start to smell really bad. Same for fish. These two materials are amazing fertilizers that can be readily used in the garden so I would not be too concerned about their bio-availability in the same way than you do with something like bone or another mineral fertilizer.

@@GardensofNewEngland thanks again for the speedy reply. Now you mention the possibility of smells puts me off using it indoors, and it would probably attract some unwanted critters outside. Oh well, it was just an idea that was sparked by yourself and what I have readily available. Thinking outside the box how to improve inside the box. I use ground egg shells and/or ground oyster shells for grit, calcium and ph buffer. Really enjoyed all your worm vids, lots of information. Keep up the great work. Have fun, Mark : )

@@madhat127 thank you, Mark!!

Depends where you buy.

You are welcome!! Great crop!

yeah!!!!! Thanks for sharing!

Пожалуйста!! Я научился садоводству у русского друга. Она научила меня сочетать разные растения и цветы и делать сад немного диким!

Ах! У меня в саду есть сверчки, но они не доставляют проблем. Главное - привлечь хищников. Узнайте, что их ест там, где вы находитесь, и постарайтесь привлечь их. Я очень люблю держать в своем саду змей и жаб, потому что они являются восточными вредителями. Я тоже люблю пауков! Они едят клещей, которые представляют собой большую проблему для человека.

@@GardensofNewEngland Я стараюсь перехитрить сверчков.После посадки семян в грунт не трогаю сорняки.Всё растёт вместе , потом немного прорываю сорняки.Но сверчки не спят .А травить их жалко , надеюсь что какие нибудь хищники появятся

Попробуйте узнать об их жизненном цикле и найти способ его разорвать. Перед посадкой запустите цыплят (если они у вас есть). Удачи!

Это потрясающе! Общение с природой - это правильный путь. Я люблю выращивать помидоры среди цветов и других многолетних растений. Таким образом, они более устойчивы и имеют меньше вредителей. Спасибо, что поделились!

@@GardensofNewEngland Вам тоже спасибо что ответили.У меня мало единомышленников.На меня смотрят и улыбаются.

пожалуйста!

That's awesome! thanks for sharing!

Awww! thank you!! Ask any questions! Happy to help!

It is a wonderful plant!

Me too!! Deer are eating it!! So I have had to fence to keep the seed back thriving!

good to know!

how is the weather there? I always wonder how hot can it get for it to grow.

@@GardensofNewEngland our weather is cool our area is on highlands

Thank you, Sue!! I do not use DE at all. For grit, I like eggshells, biochar, bone meal, and even a tinny bit of sand once a year. I avoid DE because it is too fine and can form clumps. It is also something you have to buy, and not something worms naturally find in the wild.

I use leaves! You can shred them. I would not use peat or coco coir for cocoon because one can be acidic and the other one high in sodium. I do not separate the cocoons.

It is a wonderful crop!!! Save the crowns to plant next year.

You're welcome 😊

lol!

Morgan, you are absolutely right! Usually large farms do breeding beds to bring the worms together, but for a small system you do not need a nursery or a breeding bin.

Doesn't that depend on where you live and what components of "mother earth" you have access to?

I do not have experience trying to warm a bed with nitrate. Are you referring to nitrogen concentration? Too much nitrogen in the form of fresh food will cause acidity to go high and that will hurt the worms. You could try to surround the bin with something like horse manure to generate heat, but that can get too hot or not hot enough if it is very cold. So you would have to monitor closely. If you live in a climate where water freezes solid in winter, the best thing is to bring the worms indoors.

Thank you so much!!!!

You are welcome! It is a great tip that saved my worms in many heat waves in Southern California!

They are wonderful plants!!

Yes!

Sounds great! Good luck!

Thank you for saying hello!

You are so welcome!! Great plant!