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@@Airbrushkid thanks for the concern, yeah it's the result of viral bronchitis damaging a portion of my lungs and the drs can't find a treatment that works to ease it

@@sambo6591 hi thanks for reaching outI just used the stock shims for the spiders and stock the diffs aren't shimmed for the pinion and crown gears, for me it's not something I'd look at unless I'm wiping out crowns or pinions just to keep the simplicity but I've seen on the Facebook mt10 group's several people have tightened the mesh in the crown and pinion they will be able to give you part numbers you need, but if you do start tightening the drive it may be an advantage to somehow shim the drive couplers as ours are p shaped after 2 year of use and are about £30 to replace (full center diff rebuild kit and the other coupling kit) for 2 basic drive cups which is a bit silly as the rest of the parts you get don't wear as fast,

I'm pretty new to RCs so I was just wondering if the gifts needed to be shamed I should have explained it better

@@sambo6591 we all start somewhere on this never ending learning curve, honestly it's personal preference but since you're still finding your feet I'd keep things simple and get a feeling for the car as is (this cars meant for fun diff shimming I'd personally only do with a race car or if I'm having issues with crown and pinion wear but as modern cars are built with fairly good tolerances it's not something to fret over) then once you've got settled in modify and tweak it to suit your driving style and the places you run, the mt10 overall is a good car but like everything it needs tweaking out of the box (most will have been done if you get a used car) - hub caps off before they fall off - nylock wheel nuts instead of the serrated ones fitted - Steering servo isn't great something like the ds servo 3225mg will work and is relatively cheap - the mesh between the pinion and spur will need resetting after shipping due to the mount not been completely tightened (the paper method works for learners but use good quality paper I use letter head paper (a single sheet will last years as you only need a short strip 5-7mm wide 5cm long each time) loosen the motor, place the paper between the pinion and spur, push the pinion into the spur and tighten the mount bolts, once it's tight just rotate the spur and the paper will come out leaving a good mesh gap behind) -rpm suspension arms are worth having to hand along side hinge pins but only swap them as you need to (we've got 2 cars and only fitted 3 in all this time) - battery straps you will need longer ones to fit bigger 3s lipos (but the cars more fun on 2s) - have a fastrax mt10 specific servo arm to hand the stock plastic one won't last too long but is an easy swap (especially if the servo dies first) -Have a spare spur gear in hand (unfortunately you can't upgrade to metal as none are made and it moves a failure point to the motor which is more expensive to change) The Facebook groups are a great source of information and ideas if you can they are worth joining

@@macmccartney5760 yeah I've been surprised how well they've lasted and how well they handle all surfaces

they are jetko tomahawks, 2.8" belted, they are great tyres i've had them on almost 2 years now and honestly they've barely worn and that's even running on tarmac and gravel, the best part about them are the removable center hex (those 6 allen heads hold the hub in so if you have one come loose or the hub gets damaged the wheel isn't written off ) and the center hub is available in 12, 14 and 17mm hex so you can use the wheels on any car but the only issue there is that i've found that's the extra weight does wear the hub bearings quickly so they become a point to check

Yeah the spur is plastic (but if the mesh is set properly and checked as part of your pre run checks you'll have it last over a year of abuse) and the internal gears are all metal

@@WidmanEncarnacionArellano I've just got a cheap set from an Amazon return reseller for my impact driver (used for extraction only) and a set of Aldi Allen keys for the manual stuff but wiera drivers are good although I am looking at the I-fixit driver kits as they have a lifetime warranty for both the standard and micro drivers

Happy to help, that was factory and about 18 months of abuse before I serviced them

Thanks I'm glad it helped, it just needs to cover the spider gears (literally just) much more and you've got a sticky mess to clean up and you can accidentally dislodge the seal (which was the case with my partners mt10 from the factory)

Thanks for reaching out, I'm Glad it helped, yeah post filming this I've realised it's easier to go the longer way, pop the drive shaft cover and move the motor away so the teeth don't engage then install the centre diff on the splines first and line the drive shaft up,

Thanks for the questions, thicker in the center helps keep the front end down giving more of a 50/50 distribution but running heavier wheels I've left the fluids as is due to the higher loading until the next annual service where I'll try tuning the diffs but I kind of like the looseness of the rear and wheelie's. My best advice is to take to Facebook and look up the 2 rival Mt10 groups, there's guys on there that are constantly adjusting to suit their driving styles that will be able to give you weights that'll work for your style I hope that helps

Thanks for reaching out, both our cars have the original skid plates and diff cases, the hack we found to work came from hardcore RCs channel and that's to soak the car entirely in gt85 by wd40 (not wd40 it doesn't quite work the same) all but the tyres inside and out give it 2 or 3 liberal coats (about an hour or so bettween coats) then leave it overnight to soak in the plastic then wipe off the excess then leave it 24 hours to completely dry then you should be good to go, now I'm guessing you're breaking them in the skate park/ BMX track off some gnarly landings or hitting nature's jungle gym for RCs another tip would be to slow things down and learn the car on small bunny hops because air control is harder to master on 2s than 3 which leads to gnarly landings when you run out of rotational momentum but 3s has more control of momentum which unfortunately leads to faster crashes if you go harder than expected to get the rotation now I'm not sure what battery you're running but you sound like you just need to build your skill with building experience long grass/ soft dirt is your friend in this process, even Kevin Talbot started small to hone his skills to land successfully without major damage on every landing and this all takes time so have fun and enjoy achieving your little wins to get to the big goal I hope this helps buddy

thanks, yes the chassis is the same the only changes for the v2 are cosmetic (the mt8 style body and the removal of the side step/ exhaust nerf bars on the sides of the chassis)

thanks you've got to build the odd stupid things once in a while but its off road capabilities are probably going to be the same as a range rover on road tyres trying to keep up with matts off-road in sand hollow

Thanks 👍 the mjx is one of the under rated sub £100 cars, it beats the brushless tracer and handles better than the arrma granite grom

Thanks, well honestly I detest the tt02 but it held up very well, I'm sure the tamiya purist's will be having palpitations

I'm happy to hear it's been of use, yeah the spur is the Achilles heel of the car due to the mount system but my top tip is to check the gear mesh monthly it takes 5 minutes compared to an hour rebuilding the car

Yeah I know I had a charge wire running from above and it ended up dangling in the wrong place and rubbing the mic, I didn't even notice until I was editing 😞 but the issue is fixed the charge cable has been shortened and rerouted also a better mic has been purchased Thanks for watching the video

They are belted jetko tomahawks

The axel is fiddly but once you've done one and got the nack the other set will fly in, I've shown the best way as in the past I've pulled the diff with the half shafts still on only to have to remove one later in order to get the other back in

Thanks for that I didn't think it would matter with the bypass holes in the loose fitting piston, I'm no expert with tuning oil shocks I'll take note for the set I've still got to do on the other mt10

@@brontecountryrc give it a try mate I’m fairly new to it all as well. It might not happen the first time you try but I’ve found proper brim the oil level so shit loads comes out when you set the rubber first is guarantees zero ain’t in there to act like a spring

Yeah I'll give it a go because there's no 100% gospel way of doing things I've got 30 years RC experience behind me which is why I've started doing these videos for the new guys who've taken the leap into the hobby especially with the mt10, But the oil shocks are different today than 20 years ago when they worked so you didn't mess with them or just leaked first rebound so you'd fill them with grease or leave them empty, I've just kept to what one of the wise old boys told me to do with my mardave cobra (that never held oil so we're left empty after leaking everywhere in my parents caravan) I filled to 1/16" ISH bellow the top or diaphragm if like the mjx ones the diaphragm is huge so you don't get too much overspill (I'm mildly allergic to liquid silicone so I try to avoid getting too much on myself) then push the piston up off the bottom to let the air out

@@brontecountryrc I gave up with the mjx shocks I tried for 2 evenings to set them with zero rebound and all I get is pogo sticks lol I came to rc trucks from fpv drones been doing that about 3 years but last 6 months I’ve go into this and I’m having more fun with it cause once I build and tune a drone that’s kind of it apart from flying it but rc cars and monster trucks these so many more things you can fiddle with physically cause drone tuning is all done in the program betaflight on laptop where I like using tools and getting me hands dirty. (Glove with shock oil tho)

The shocks aren't too bad on the mjx now compared to the rock hard janky things they were before (my partners 16209 is still running stock so we can see if it's actually made it any better to drive) but unless you go for race spec shocks you'll never get the holy grail perfect shock set up with cheap basic ones they fit from the factory even the upgrade ones manufacturers sell aren't much better functionally just stronger mechanically, I've done most aspects of RC except for bikes, helicopters, jets and quadcopters. I stopped flying because the drone regs closed a couple of sites we used to fly at for decades (theres a tiny airstrip that's got a 5km exclusion bubble) and it's 40 miles to the next decent club site but not driving hinders that a bit and yeah quads are complicated by the gubbins to make them perform, I've got 2 older 250 race quads in a box in the workshop but not being up on them because the development it progresses so quickly you loose track they are sat waiting for radio and batteries

Thanks I'm glad it's helping people, Out of our 2 cars I had 1 strip due to the motor mount moving creating a bad gear mesh which is the cause of 90% of the bust spurs, (but that was the original that was 12 months old and was a failed front flip) and the other I swapped because it had picked up some debris The mesh is easy to reset once you have the car rebuild and the access cover behind the motor mount off (check the pinion is in line with the spur and is tight before you start) Loosen the sprung bolt on the top, Place a strip of paper between the pinion and spur (normal printer paper will do) Firmly press the motor down so the paper is gripped, Tighten the sprung bolt as tightly as you can then flip it over and tighten the small bolt on the underside of the chassis by the rear arm, Then with the car flat on its wheels turn 1 to feed the paper out from between the spur and pinion then replace the cover and you'll be up and going again (pencil lead is a good dry lube as grease would attract too much debris due to the poor seal around the guard) Another option to consider custom RC upgrades are producing a slightly modified motor mount out of quality alloy (personally I'm going to try add another bolt to the stock one and see if 2 will hold better before investing)

@@brontecountryrc amazing mate thanks for the info can't wait to get it sorted, appreciate it man 👍

Happy to help,

Yes it is, the spur is a 1 size deal that's just held with 4 bolts and the outdrive, the pinions are easy you have 2 ways to access The bottom if you're doing a diff service or if you're not release the motor plate it's only held by 2 bolts (as you'll need to change the mesh if you're changing the pinion size this is the way to go)

Yeah no problem I'll put some pictures onto my community feed in the next couple of days, This is a Mcgiver conversion at the moment just using scrap parts of a pan car and a few bits of alloy on a fully stock chassis with the original radio box but I'll be switching over to purpose made parts on this one and I have V2 in the works that's a full sub chassis, 12mm hex 1/10 wheels on new custom axles (1/10 because modern 1/8 are too big)