Відео

At 100 brake force, the load cell needs 100kg of pressure to reach maximum pedal travel, and therefore maximum signal sent to the game which is what you want always! 100kg is a lot! A small person who doesn't lift weights or have much leg strength might not be able to exert much force onto the pedal. I have Fanatec pedals now, so I can't remember exactly what mine were like, but from memory, 100 brake force will FEEL like your pedal is at full travel, but if you really try you should see the reading go up higher. Try pushing the brake with both legs and see if you get above 30, that's probably the easiest way to test them. Good luck! I hope they're not broken.

@@everytenth it is not on a rig, just on the floor and im in a gaming chair, so i just roll back or the whole pedal set lifts up if i press too hard, even if try to hold it down with my other foot and press as hard also possible i only get about 32 and then i start to roll back, so i think that is just the problem

@@Kaisarion1998 yes absolutely that would be the problem, so you definitely need to set a low brake force setting, otherwise your braking distances will be crazy long. Once you get a rig, you can raise it.

Happy to help. Thanks for your comment.

Happy to help, and thanks for your comment. According to Thrustmaster, the pedals can register 100kg from the load cell. The RAW value represents what the load cell is registering, so that means 44.7 raw is 44.7 kg. Bear in mind, if you change to a different compression spring, this will affect how this same pressure in your muscle memory FEELS, and will affect the raw value (for the same amount of your physical force), however the RAW value will ALWAYS tell you the kg that it's picking up, so you can think of that value as the kilograms. Hope that makes sense.

Thank you very much bro! that's what i thought

No problem. Thanks for your comment!

Good luck!

That's annoying! I'm not familiar with the damper kit, but on mine there are only 3 or 4 points where you could be experiencing the wiggle. The pivot point of the pedal itself and the pivot point of the plunger at both ends. How bad is it? I'd try wiggling it by hand and see if you can see anything obvious. If it's the bushings on the pivot shaft of the pedal, you may be able to take them to a bearing shop and see if they have anything similar. Definately shouldn't be happening after 12 months if you have been keeping them lubricated! Good luck with them.

Sorry to hear you had dramas with the grub screw. That's annoying. Yes, I wouldn't be holding my breath waiting for a reply from Fanatec. Thanks for posting your helpful comments, and yes, I've found it good practice with any thread that if you apply gentle pressure and screw in the opposite direction that the thread will align itself perfectly (you will feel a slight click as it come in to alignment), so yeah, you have a valid point. Thanks again. Cheers

@@everytenth I'm also having issues with the gas pedal squeaking on release and that's with liberal application of PTFE spray penetrated into all the back-side nooks and crannies of the pedal. With it, it's better for a while but as soon as the two surfaces manage to 'connect', back comes the squeal 😅. I wish that they hadn't gone for brass washers against aluminium/steel, or whatever the bars and pedal arms are made of. A couple of 5p plastic washers would have probably guaranteed noise-free operation. Also found my lithium grease spray the other night, that's next on the list if the PTFE ends up being a bust after a few weeks. I have plenty of the grease as supplied in the box and brake perf kit - it's so viscous and hard to get between surfaces in the stupid dropper bottle, I only use it for cylinder and piston lubrication. Get quite a lot of push-out on the brake pedal piston too. To cap it off, the side hex screws are so tight I can't even loosen them! I applied two hands of torque to both and neither come loose, I was seriously worried I was about to round the heads off. These things don't seem designed with ease of servicing in mind 😂

@ChristopherWoods yes it's frustrating to go to all the effort and have the squeak come back so soon. Definitely could have been engineered better, but maybe that's on purpose to sell more new pedal sets to those who are unable to service them. Yes, I found the hex screws crazy tight. (Can't remember if I covered that in my video?) From memory, one side wasn't as tight as the other, and that is how I managed to loosen them. I mentioned in another comment that I thought about putting a small sealed roller bearing (like a skateboard wheel bearing) where the small pin in the pedal is (that connects to the plunger). That seems to be the culprit in my set. Would require some mods, but it's something I may look at in the future.

Yes it did start squeaking again. You could try applying more lubricant than you think you need and see how you go. I'm pretty sure it's the small pin that connects the plunger to the pedal, and there is no real bearing or even bushing at that particular point. It's just metal on metal from what I can see. I have just been spraying mine with silicon spray because the silicon doesn't leave a sticky residue that can attract dirt (as long as you wipe up the excess). As I mentioned, no real bearing at that point, and they won't break, but there's a risk of them wearing away (the softest material, which is probably the pedal) if you don't keep the lubrication up to them. I've thought about doing a mod using sealed bearings (like skateboard wheel bearings - maybe slightly smaller) and they shouldn't give you any trouble for life, but just not sure how to connect them. It might require cutting down the block on the plunger and some other slight mods to make that work. If I do, I will do a video on it.

No problem man. Happy to help!

I've been on Fanatec for 2 or 3 years now, and I gave my TLCM pedals to my nephew.

Thanks for your helpful comment. I appreciate it! I'm not an electrician, but just wondering if electricity takes the path of least resistance? I will check mine when I get a chance. 👍

Sorry for the late reply. Give it a go, not much to mess up as long as you are methodical and lay the parts out in order so they go back the same way.

Thanks for your helpful comments. Hopefully they can fix yours, and it could depend on what service centre or even what technician gets assigned to you, so maybe don’t believe the horror stories. Best of luck and we’ll look forward to hearing your result. 👍

they emailed me a quote, for the main cable. i guess its the cable im having issue with. (which i thought they 100% good) im trying to reach back to them and see if they can explain their findings

@@DMTBoris cool thanks

@@everytenth Yo, I got my wheelbase back... everything seems to be working the way its suppose to be, I'm not having any random xbox mode switch anymore. fanatec charge me $60+ after tax on the issue, sending the wheelbase and the hub cost me more. goodluck with yours man

Thanks for sharing. No the mode switching is done via the steering wheel but the mode light is part of the on/off switch so technically it would be part of the same circuit. It could potentially be the culprit. I did try playing around with the pin connections (loosening and tightening the bolts) on both the steering wheel and the wheel base shaft but still kept getting the problem

Hi mate. No this problem is still unresolved unfortunately

So how do you drive?

@@svendebaene csl dd pro now. The csw is my spare. Im hoping it is something they will fix with firmware but probably not since they are now discontinued

@@everytenth So you think this is pure software? because no software change was done, it just happend mid race and now it keeps happening after 5min of drifting.

Did you check the USB cable? Random disconnect was happening to me as well when I was using extension cable.

Happy to help. Cool thanks for that. How do you apply the graphite though? I'm assuming you have to dismantle everything? I've just been using silicon spray as i can spray from the side of the pins and it seems to penetrate quite well. I can usually get away with doing this once a week.

It depends how much you use it. I use mine on average maybe 3 hours every day and I plan on doing it every 12 months. I also use silcon spray about once a week or whenever they start to squeak. I will do a video soon on how I apply the spray. Just be aware that if you keep using them too long with them sqeaking they will wear the softest material first which is the pedals themselves. On the bottom pivot shaft there are brass bushings that can be replaced but at the pins that connect to the plungers the pin hole is directly through the pedal material with no bushing at all.

@@everytenth thanks for the heads up … I think this is the type of info that is most valuable … much appreciated… greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦

@@shiranRSA no problem I appreciate the kind words!

You mean change the sensitivity on the wheel? I haven't tried it myself, I have it set to auto on the wheel and then adjust via the in-game wheel rotation setting as that allows more fine tuning (smaller increments).

@@everytenth cool. Great video though. How long have r you been sim racing?

@@myGamebox47 Thanks. Been sim racing in online multiplayer for maybe 4 years or so but prior to that I've always done singleplayer and arcade racing ever since the old Daytona USA and Sega Rally days haha. I also used to play TOCA touring cars on controller on Playstation back in the day.

Ok thanks for letting everyone know. I have mine set to auto now and use the in game setting to adjust to my liking

So apparently going into advanced setting and changing sen to 2520 instead of auto and change the game to 360 fixes this apparently its a fanatec issue they havent fixed yet. I use gt3 dd 8nm adapter and im having to use these setting as full lock happens at 90 turn for me its irritating as fu** how fanatec havent fixed this with each update

No problem. Happy to help

I have it set to that now. Not sure why I didn't have it on auto at the time of this video. I don't think it was working correctly in game until they patched it, but I was also experimenting with rotation at the time and i also wanted to be able to switch this setting on the fly for different tracks without having to go into the ingame setting.

If they are just static electricity shocks you can make a ground cable. Check out my video ua-cam.com/video/sOl99sc47K4/v-deo.html otherwise if it's a fault with your pedals... I'm not sure.. I don't have any experience with Logitech

Thanks for sharing 👍

What do you mean by un calibrate? I only had trouble with my accelerator doing weird stuff. Sometimes it would either stick on or totally drop out. I later learned that it was probably due to EMI issues that could have been fixed by grounding my rig. Sent the first set back. My new replacement ones they sent back did the same thing. I ended up going Fanatec so I don't have mine anymore.

@@everytenth they would mid-race lose their calibration I set with the equipment either the rolling star that does it or I get hit in anoxic completely out and I have to go back to the software

@@DOC187able no I never had that problem

I don't remember exactly why I set the gas deadzone at 1.7. I think I may have done it, so when I did a slight lift (at some corners) it gave me a small amount extra gas because I tend to be more cautious and maybe lift too much.

@@everytenth No, this is not dead zone, this is raw value of gas pedal, it should be 0.0. The question this is defect or no?

@@tabtab9929 you're right. Sorry yes I think a defect. I had to send my first set back for warranty. The replacement set they sent me were faulty as well. I later learned that it was probably caused by EMI issues which I probably could have solved by grounding my rig

@@everytenth Thank you for the answer.

In the video the sens was 720 and the in game was 360. If you have the sens on anything other than auto i don't think it matters what your in game setting is because your wheel overrides it.

Thanks for the comment. Hope you find your problem. I was recently having the same issue as you (my wheel and pedals would randomly disconnect). I updated my firmware and so far have not had the issue touch wood.

@@everytenth it could also be a button mapping issue as well possibly. So all needs to be investigated cos it is hampering me a little bit whilst driving. More annoying than anything.

@@michaelhelbrow7906 yes very annoying. At least on the F1 games the Ai takes over and you can continue racing. EXTREMELY frustrating on ACC where you end up with damage from a wall or barrier. Good luck.

They don't work on console.. At least not on Xbox. If you connect to a PC and use the Fanatec software you can test all buttons, encoders and lights I believe, but I've never tried it myself.

Black on bottom, white on top

Hi mate. Not anymore. From memory one of the F1 2021 patches fixed it, but I did also update my wheel base firmware. How about you? Still having issues?

I'm pretty sure the TM settings will always be in effect regardless of platform or console. You will have additional in-game calibration settings in your ps4 or whatever that you can fine tune further

To calibrate your pedals for console you need to plug them in to a PC. It's a bit of a pain but once you get settings you're happy with its all good.

Happy to help

Glad I could help!

No problem man. Happy to help!. Enjoy

The wheel works for xbox and the F1 games, but a lot of buttons/switches don't work (the buttons double up). The rev lights and flag lights don't function.

Just one more question does the wheel work with nascar games like nascar heat 5

@@maxwellnelson625 I'm not sure, but I don't see why it wouldn't. I only play F1 and ACC so I can only comment on those.

@Maxwell Nelson Every Tenth here (signed into my other account)

Unfortunately no. The thumb wheels don't work either which is frustrating, as they used to work on my Thrustmaster F1 Ferrari wheel. Now that I'm used to using the switch on my Fanatec though, I actually prefer it, as I can adjust my differential etc. on the fly much quicker.

@@everytenth which switch do you use now?

@@ericelbling4216 it's the (funky?) switch on the right side. Up and down cycles through your MFD options (fuel mix, brake bias etc.) And left and right changes the value of whatever is selected. If you press it down, it functions as the A button. It is also a rotary dial which you use to adjust your selected tuning menu setting.

@@everytenth ok, thanks!

Thanks for your comment. I found it easier to catch a slide with higher sens setting.

@@everytenth hi mate are you still having to have rotation so high, do you know if codies will fix this in a patch. Cant seem to find much online starting to wonder if they even give a shit lol

@@dave_camz hi mate, yeah I still have it high... Currently on 820 from memory. Not sure if they will fix it. I haven't worried about it, as I haven't noticed the oversteer issue you mentioned

No worries

I don't think I'm awesome 😆 but thanks bro 👍

Happy to help. Cool, enjoy your new pedals!

I'm not using mine anymore, I've switched to Fanatec but I was using the black on the bottom and white on top. Give that a try

@@everytenth still too heavy in my opinion I might have to get a mod for a more hydraulic feeling.

@@everytenth Hello, when are you using white on top and black on bottom do you put all washers ? Thank you

@@ZvedLeGamer hello. No I didn't use any washers. The washers are used if you want to reduce the preload effect of the centre spring. You can use some or all of the washers if you like but adding washers will also reduce the physical travel of your pedal.

@@everytenth thank you !

Hey, i bought the TM T LCM pedals last week just got them used the RED springs and found them to be too hard, tried the black springs same issue now on the white and black combo with no washers set in the middle spring. Just seen this video and it's helped me understand that muscle memory and conditioning is important coming from the old pedals the T3 PA pro which are linear ( not a load cell based system ). With the TLCM I was having under steer or it would lock up. Very frustrating for now as I have had much faster lap times with my old pedals set up.