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both impart a yellowing cast, that is tung and linseed oils. Not sure which would have a greater yellowing effect. I do know that in renaissance times walnut oil was preferred to mix paints as it imparted less yellowing than that of linseed or tung oils. Walnut oil doesn't have the driers in it that tung oil finish or BLO do though so if you used walnut oil I would expect less cure out. I use a sealcoat or two of danish oil under my lacquered items. I find it doesn't add too much "yellowing" under the clear lacquer but there is some. The poly in this recipe also adds some yellowing too. All in all its hard to find a wiping finish that is really clear. There is lots of pros to this type of finish, though they yellowing caste is commonly one of the main draw backs of oil based finishes. Darker toned woods (i.e. walnut) and woods without alot of contrast (not spalted) the yellowing doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

Sweet... glad it worked well for you.

yes its the poly that forms the skin. I typically just remove the skin, stir up and keep going till the batch is done. If its too skinned over Ill just remake another batch. Im not worried about poly concentrations on any particular day since I am building the finish, so each layer there will be concentration variants. Overall it shouldn't be much of an issue. Building the finish is using multiple thin coats, sanded in between with 220-400 grit every few coats or so. As a batch gets older the finish thickens up until it skims over. Sometimes, particularly in the summer if the finish gets too thick I can extend the life a little bit by adding a small amount of solvent. What do you mean by "not doing well"? What species of pine, and is it very resinous?

as long as it is an oil base I don't see why not. Try it out and see what you get.

@@vanduynbees7919 oil based varnish? I have Poly based varnish in my House, i dont know if It would work

@@onedayapp3534 poly is oil base

I don't stabalize as you would think of doing for pen blanks. Generally I just remove the punky sections that are too degraded, either in cutting the blank or rough turning the blank. Occasionally there will be some spot areas that are weaker than others. Depending on what I am making, I may remove those sections and fill them, or I might spot stabalize them with CA if I think they have sufficient structural stability. It just depends on what the overall piece looks like and whether it will benefit from having fill or if the void compliments its appearance. The risk on spot stabilizing with CA is the appearance of glue marks, so I treat the area and adjacent ones with danish oil before I use CA, that helps to mitigate the glue marks.

Jason Van Duyn awesome thank you, I have some Russian Olive burl that is a little punky in just a few spots, I was debating between stabilizing it, or gouging out the soft stuff and using something like a blue epoxy to accentuate it

@@toddgagne9314 Epoxy fills aren't really my speed, though that will certainly work. When I fill voids, I shear scrape to produce the finest almost whispy shavings, pack those into the void and saturate with CA. It produces colors that are complimentary to its surroundings. I do all this while turning so I can clean the fill up with another pass.

Thanks for the comment

no not yet. Of the domestic species I have tried I find that boxwood does the best although its hard to find any of significant size. Persimmon and dogwood also cut threads pretty well. I am sure there are some smaller sized species that would work really well, but I am just working with what is fairly easy to find here.

I have had good luck threading Bradford Pear which is readily available in the Atlanta area.

I have been making hollows since 2009. I took a hollowing class that Mike Jackofsky taught at craft supplies in Provo, UT in 2010 I think. Other than that I am self taught. I guess at this point I have made somewhere around 700ish hollow vessels of some kind. A lot of self education, reading, and refinement of form and decreasing the opening size. I currently shoot for opening size to be around 10-12% of the diameter of the piece.

Jason Van Duyn well I’m very impressed. You obviously have the skill but also a great eye as an artist to know exactly the nuances of making a great piece. Ps you should charge more :) do you ship to Canada by chance?

@@cdain Hi Cathy, sorry for replying so late. I do ship to Canada, though the duties do make it a bit more expensive. The last I sent up there was a few months ago and I think the duties came out to about 18-20% of the item. If your interested in anything email me and I can better show you what I have around here, I have a lot thats not listed currently on my website.

yes I have ground my female cutter down, however that was mostly to cut threads on some small knobs that I was turning for some canisters.

Thanks, schedule is pretty tight so its hard to get time to make more videos. Although I have been seeing a lot of people wondering about jamb chucking, so I think that is going to be next on my list.

Hollow Pro Tools - www.mikejackofsky.com/Tools.html

Jason Van Duyn thank you

its a pvc coupling jammed onto a poplar base (being held by my nova chuck) and I epoxied (west marine) a ring of floor mat material to the other end. Rough edges tend to scar up the matting so I usually have another disc of mat material between the jam chuck and the block of wood. It was a first evolution of a vacuum chuck for bowl work but I never went any further with it. I started using it when I started making my hollow openings smaller than my spur drives.

shoot me an email if you want to see some more pics of it. jason@vanduynwoodwork.com

Yea I had that thought too. I jam all of my vessels and bowls, but I use a few different jams to do that. As far as the hollowing tool I use hollow pro tools - www.mikejackofsky.com/Tools.html