Відео

That is what was at fault on mine.... Thanks for the comments.

Well, any time the temps drop to where you are not comfortable an underquilt or a cocoon is all but mandatory. For me, when the temperatures drop below 70*F (21*C) I find that I need an underquilt. During the day when the temperatures are higher I just loosen the underquilt and let the air flow underneath. Then as it cools down I hoist it back up and am ready for the night. A cocoon is sort of like placing the hammock inside a sleeping bag. I have videos on underquilts, underblankets and cocoons in my video collection. Have a look around and watch mine or other people's videos. Thanks for the comments.

Well, first you need to determine if it is, indeed, a burned out capacitor. If it is, looks for physical evidence of damage to the capacitor. Most replacement caps are made in China and I have seen a capacitor that was manufactured poorly and failed when placed in service. To test the capacitor, use a screwdriver and short across the terminals and look for a spark. If none recharge the capacitor with a battery. Connect one side of the battery to the cap and momentarily touch the other side of the battery to the other side of the cap. A spark should happen. Then short the capacitor with the screwdriver and look for the spark as it discharges. Be very careful not to harm yourself. I cannot be accountable for any damages that might occur to yourself or the generator. ( I just need to post that as protection for myself. Some people just don't mix well with electricity.) Good luck.

Tough to say what went wrong but since the cord was cut while the unit was outputting power, the breaker has some lag time before it opens the circuit. I am wondering if you burned some wire and had it break resulting in an open circuit. If it were me I would open thins up and look for evidence of something burned/discoloured or a wire that looks cut but really is burned out. The cute will cause the amperage to increase to maximum and smaller wires are not meant to carry that much amperage and will work like a fuse and open circuit. If you have a multimeter, use it to check continuity on the various wires. Good luck...

Glad it helped and thanks for the comment!

Glad it was helpful!

You will need to check with the manufacturer's code list to determine if they are the same. Many use a standard code system but I have seen a few that just did not fit in with that standard system. You will also need to find the various component values for your system. Good luck with your repairs.

Good information. Thanks... I am going to have to remember this one.

Well, thanks... Happy that I was of some help... Sorry for the delayed response as I actually neglected to check my comments... Shame on me I guess... Thanks for the comment.

If it responds to cold and heat it might be operating as designed. But, you need to find the actual specs to assure that it is running to specs. As electrical parts age, some will wander away from specs and can cause issues. You will also need to know what the particular air conditioner's expectations are for a given temperature.

@@bobamos3628 its an old unit, AxAir Gam-12 made in 2003. i cant find nothing, only a new model for sale and even then, no data of the OHms. thing is, it was kept for years not used. i pulled it out, ran it for 2 seconds and it was working. i put it on its back in the car and took it home. when i turned it on at home it gave me E4 at start. since then it shows E4 at start non stop. idk if putting it on its back did something or what. didnt see leeaking or smth else. the circuitboard is one with the display in plastic. i can pull the sensors out but not see the board. i somehow feel its not the sensor but not sure, and in my city there are mostly company's that mount brend new systems, not fixing old stuff

Interesting. Mine is still in operation with no issues. Of coarse, what each product is made of can vary including products from the same seller. Thanks for sharing...

Well, the E4 indicates a possible issue that might need attention. If the unit continues to cool properly and cycles as it should, I would just live with it. I have repaired this code on another that does exactly what you are experiencing. It has never missed a beat and is cooling perfectly. You might try placing the sensor in a different location from where it is designed to fit. Or, replace with a different brand sensor if it bothers you. The choice is up to you as to trying to run down the problem or living with it as long as it is cooling. On the one that I had the code return, we just left it and the owner is happy with the performance.

@@bobamos3628 Thx Bob. Yeah, it cools the room and runs fine til the E4 comes on, which is seems to switch to fan mode, then in a few seconds or like 3 minutes the most I timed, it kicks back into cooling mode, no issues. I saw another repair expert say the same, as long as it cools, it should be fine but I will take your advice on the sensor replacement. Many thx to you and your channel. Best.

Hi, For A/C units, this code generally refers to an outside coil temperature thermistor reading too high. I would start by looking for the actual temperature of that coil. The condenser coil is the one that gets warm while in operation. Make sure that it is clean and clear of dirt and any other obstructions. Air must flow through it to cool down the unit. It is the heat exchanger portion of the air conditioner. If you have a pyrometer, you might want to test it for its temperature. On you unit I do not have the specs of how hot it should be so Google it for specs. If it is not outside the temperature range, I would suspect the thermistor to be faulty. Hope this is helpful.

@@bobamos3628 thanks for the info

I am not sure what UA-cam did to this video, but it cut it short on me somewhere along the time line. It was a longer video with a lot more information to it. Sorry that it did not divulge more info for you. I do thank you for the heads up as i was not aware as to what happened to the video. I will have a look and see if my original copy is still in my archives. Again, sorry about this one.

and on top of it .. i still have warranty on my and i cant do any holes and stuff i have to do it some other way dont know how tho

Well, this mod requires modifying the bug net. Not sure what to tell you. But, Wally World never looks at what is being returned so I never worried about that.

The hole can be made almost any way that you want. In my case, I used a soldering iron and burned through the netting and that also sealed the ends. You could use a Phillips screwdriver, heat it with a lighter and plunge it through the netting giving the same results.

@@bobamos3628 the problem is i dont want to lose warranty yat .. and its 2 years or so so if it rips or anything i would get another one.. so i cant really make a hole or i lose warranty from since its new hammock.. so i had to put ridgeline outside of net so its resting against net and i can hang while lying from inside to outside so my stuff hangs outside of my hammock but under tarp.. i have no idea how otherwise since it doesnt have already made holes in net or anywhere..

Well, there really is not wiring manuals for these things. It seems that every one was made a little differently. Also, over the many years that these have been around, so many things could have been changed by previous owners. What are you looking to find with the wiring? AC wiring or the DC wiring?

Hi, and thanks for commenting. The ridgeline is something that each person, as well as equipment, needs to work with to find that "sweet spot" that is most comfortable to them. I generally start with my ridgeline being 83% of the total length of the line itself. Generally, I will make one end permanent while using a taut line hitch for the other end. I then will adjust the taught line portion shorter and longer to find where I feel most comfortable. Once you find that "sweet spot" you can make the taught line permanent or, as I do, measure it and remember it. Then, I just leave the adjustable taught line so that if thing need to be adjusted I can do so and then return to my original length later if needed. Hope this explains it for you. On another note. I have a number of hammocks both expensive big named companies as well as some cheap ones. My Equip is my number 2 hammock and I love to still use it as it is so cozy inside and very comfortable. My number one is another inexpensive hammock Ridge Outdoor Pinnacle. So, an inexpensive hammock can be just as good, if not better, than the high dollar hammocks. It just depends on the person's comfort.

That could very well be true. These are "badge engineered" where they just slap on a different company name and call it theirs. I have 2 of the same with different names but look to be exactly the same. It's a pretty good meter and I still use mine all of the time. Used it yesterday, as a matter of fact. I do have a number of meters including a few Flukes. But this is always on my bench so it gets the most use. Hope yours is as good as mine has been.

Thanks for the comment...

Sorry, but we actually use it in mild temperatures.

Glad to be of help. To tell you the truth, I never could get the drill thing to work but have seen it with others. Mine always seemed to have more issues. Again, glad it worked for you.

Sorry to hear that. So far mine is still operating and I get lots of heat. I do, however, only run it on low because the trailer it is used in is only 9'X7'. Mine is an exhaust coupler for a motorcycle. It is an experiment and I welcome input from others that have used theirs. So it looks like some may fail...

​@@bobamos3628beyond your control, who knows exactly what he used

Great!! Flashing is not always needed. Mine had set for about a year with that wire broken and when I tried to restart it was needing flashing. But, I did actually discharge the capacitor and the generator did not self flash. Glad yours was an inexpensive repair.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks!

Yes, I saw that. That link is showing unavailable at the moment. I did find it from Hcalory for $199. But, the Bluetooth one is $169 and a better unit. I have both and the bluetooth unit is much better... and cheaper at the moment. www.amazon.com/HCALORY-Portable-Parking-Control-Motor-Homes/dp/B0C378L7MJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Great. Glad that you like it. Did you get this one or the one like it that has bluetooth? I have one of each and both are great. The bluetooth one has a few more features but nothing that makes it any better then the one without. That price would indicate none bluetooth and is one great deal....

Thank you for your question. As for operating on its side, I know that the base unit can be operated on its side as long as the glow plug is in the up position. I would imagine that this can be set on its side too, but the fuel tank will need to be positioned so that the fill will be in the up position and not leak.

First hammock? You are in for a treat. They are so comfortable. For me and my wife, the best thing we find about them is that when it is real cold outside and we are equipped properly, it can be so cozy and warm in the hammock. Those spreader bars made that particular hammock very usable as it kept the netting away from our faces. Thanks for the comment.

That hose is a silicone exhaust hose for motorcycles. I have been using it for over a year now and it is still looking as good as new... Thanks for your thoughts...

Do your research on silicone designed for high heat (exhaust) before you run your mouth. It's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt 😮

I am not sure who the "other guy" is or what he did that you are referring to. But, the heat related items should be vented to the outside while cooling related items are vented inside. The cooling related items include the evaporator inlet as well as the outlet. The heat side condenser includes the condenser inlet (vents on the side of case) and outlet (on the very back of case). If you were to open the case up, you would see that there is a wall between the two areas.

A capacitor is a storage device for electrical systems. The generator requires something to excite it into action. It is a common problem with this type of generator. I have seen many people get rid of their generators because they were unaware of this. Thanks for the comment.

@@bobamos3628 cheers for info,

Gee, not quite sure what "the dog" means, but thanks for the comment.

I really do not know. Is the E4 code the same on their products? If so, I would proceed the same as I did on this. Some companies have their own coding and not knowing if B&D use the same codes I could be sending you in the wrong direction. Wish that I could give you a better answer. While I am an AC specialist, my experience is mostly in the automotive field. I just apply my knowledge of AC systems to whatever I am working on and research how their systems are set up to work.

Glad that I was able to help out...

Well, the hose is actually from a motorcycle exhaust so I am sure that it will hold up. Problem with paste is I remove my exhaust between uses and a paste would harden and be difficult to work with. The hose has held up for over a year now so I will stay with it. If my unit was a permanent installation, I might go with a paste though as I am a retired auto mechanic and have used pastes with great success in the past. Thanks for you input...

Welcome 👍

Welcome 👍

Is yours the one with Bluetooth? I have a Bluetooth one too and that extension wire doesn't fit it. Your decision to use the wire for extending is exactly what I have done with my Bluetooth model too. Let me know if yours is Bluetooth or not because I'd like to be able to address this issue for future comments. Thanks for sharing..

Glad you have one. They are nice heaters... Cool looking too. In the video mine dripped a little until I secured the nut on the outlet tube. After my initial tightening it was a while before a drip appeared. Resecuring it felt like it had seated the 2 "O" rings. A second tightening was needed and it has been perfect since. It was also drilled right where the seam is located and I had thought that I had trimmed it smooth in that area but might not have gotten it as smooth as I thought. Either way, it works. I did receive a second heater with the Bluetooth in it. I installed the fuel fitting from the top with a rise tube. I really like the fact that with Bluetooth you can program it to fully turn off when temp has been reached and then it will come back one by restarting when ti drops 2*C below the set temp. Hope that you get a lot of use out of yours. Thanks for the comments.

Good to see that you made the move and got one.

I would imagine that a straight pipe without ribs would let things flow better but since they are designed with a certain amount or restriction in the exhaust system, I cannot say whether it was actually designed with the ribs in mind or not... Worth a try though. I would not try using aluminum. Thanks for your comment..

The heater is cast aluminum. How hot do you think the exhaust is?

@@BeeHiverson Generally around 250*F to 300*F full tilt is my experience and many videos that I have seen seem to confirm this.

​@bobamos3628 the ribs are there so the pipe can be bent if need be

Thanks. The ID of the silicon tube is 1 inch. It is actually an exhaust junction for a motorcycle exhaust. So far, mine has held up quite nicely. I am not sure that any anti-seize would be necessary but it can't hurt if feel that you would like to try it. I am not sure about the temp rating of anti-seize but know that it works great on automotive exhaust. Thanks for your comments.

​@bobamos3628 copaslip is good for somewhere around 1100°C - I think that's somewhat warmer than the exhaust temp 😂 ( just in case readers are unable to do the backwards conversion to °F, 1100°C is 2012°F I.e. farkin HOT!)

@@Paul_SD Paul, thanks for the input...

@@bobamos3628 It looks like the link you provided points to a tube that is 7.4 x 3.7 x 5.4 inches (i.e. a ID of 3.7) is that correct dimension?

@@johnbspringer I just checked the links and they are the correct item. I think those dimensions are the shipping box. It will come with two of these exhaust tubes made of heat tolerant silicone. I've used mine about a half dozen or so times and it is still holding up. This was an experiment that seems to work well. They are made for motorcycle exhaust so it looked like a good option. Only time will tell how they hold up, but so far mine are fine.

Thanks...

Great! That is a process that we all try and hope will work. But it generally does not. So glad to hear that yours worked..

Only worked when using a cordless drill to spin the corded drill fast enough to re excite the lost magnetism. @@bobamos3628

Thanks for the compliment. I do try to keep it at a level that can be understood. I used to reach auto mechanics at the dealer level whe I worked for Chrysler Corp. dealerships and could see the student's eyes glaze over when I had lost them. It is a little tougher on line as I can't see if the reader is following my example or if they are lost. Quality? Where did it go? Ya know, these companies will keep cheapening items to boost their profit margins and keep doing it until their products no longer work or last. Then they just keep it like that. Sort of the Peterson principle in reverse, where someone rises withing the company until they reach the level where they no longer are capable of doing that job. Then they stay there contributing nothing. Anyway, thank for the response.

Out door not comtacter woring power fstfil error shpwigo

Yes, I know what you are going through. I did this repair quite some time ago so I am a bit fuzzy on where I found the actual information. But, to find it I generally searched some diagnostics for other refrigerant units in the particular company's product line. Most, but not all, companies generally use the same valued parts when they are interchangable. I found a diagnostic video for this company's store refrigerator and the guy was using the value that I used in this video for the repair. You will just have to do some research to find the value for your particular unit. Thanks for the comment.

I used one double cord lock at each of the 4 corners. Then by pulling up on the line that would lift that corner to make a better contact I was able to control and keep the heat in. If it gets too hot I can relax them and let out some of that heat. The two cords running through the cord lock can share the same biners. Hope this helps. Basically, experiment with what works best.

@@bobamos3628 thanks Bob 👍 I tried it out today, it's a Hennessy Asym zip hammock I have so I'm going to have to look for those ridgeline hook things to pull up the sides. The blanket just didn't fit too well on the sides.

@@naepace Yeah, The Hennessy is tough to fit. I started with a Hennessy and got mine to work well with the Snugpack, Mine is a "birth canal" type with the opening under the hammock. I had to slide the UQ to the side and then pop it in place from inside. It worked well in the end though. I no longer use the Hennessy as it has an issue. It is also a collectable "Snap-On Tools" edition specially made for them in 1999.

Gee, so happy to hear that... It has been a while since I did this video and my daughter said that the A/C is still working. She does get an E4 code at times but it goes away and cools without failing. So, if your E4 code pops up, I would not worry as long as the unit continues to cool. Replacing the mother board is more expensive than replacing the unit. If you could even find the board. Hey, it's an air conditioner and as long as it cools you are fine. Thanks for the comment.