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Hello, Lowe! I am not the gentleman who posted this video. I just wanted to say that to the best I can see, he has not posted anything new in about two years. I am not on Facebook, but if you are, maybe you can look for him there. I think you might have better luck asking some other darkroom enthusiasts who have posted videos only recently. Good luck with it, and I hope you have fun in the darkroom once again.

It has not held up as well as I would like. I should have been more patient and put 4 or 5 coats on. I only did 2.

I put them straight down so they wouldn't be visible. It seemed to me that the important thing is to get the air flowing and it does that quite well

I believe I used a 1/4" bit and the holes are about 2 inches apart.

I store stock solutions of DEKTOL, D76 and Kodak Hypo Clear. I usually finish them within 2 - 3 months with no issues. They have floating lids so not much air gets to them

Check out the video I shot on my ventilation. So far it has worked pretty well.

I had a contractor build the room in my unfinished basement. That process took about 2 months because I had to get permits for construction and electrical. No need of a plumbing permit because the water supply and drain was already there. I built the sink and enlarger table myself while the room was under construction. It is a work in progress. The ventilation system came about a year after I finished the darkroom and only took a day or so to install. I did that when I had to empty the darkroom to refinish the sink. I am constantly coming up with ideas and improving it.

The plywood for the sink was 3/4 A/B primed plywood from Lowes. The base was assembled from 2x4's. The side panels are 7" high.

I used paintable silicone caulk before coating the sink. I show that in the first or second video of the series.

In the video I showed where I put cleats on the inside of the sink so the bottom would rest in the proper place and angle for drainage. I used a chalk line on the outside of the sink to mark where the bottom of the sink would sit when it is in place. I did this on all 4 sides of the sink. Once the lines were in place, I set the bottom in place and predrilled all of the holes about every 4 inches or so with a counter sink bit that went through the side and about 1/2 inch into the edge of the sink bottom using the chalk line as a guide. I then used #8 1.625 inch decking screws. If you are splitting your wood then you a probably using a #10 or #12. These screws don't need to be very long since they are just holding the bottom in place so it doesn't move. Once you caulk and seal the sink then that bottom is not going anywhere.

I considered fiberglass but have never worked with it. I think the latest recoating is going to do the trick

The original was epoxy garage floor paint. For the re-coat I used 1 qt of Flex Seal Liquid (as seen on TV) in white.

Fred, I just posted an addendum video to the sink series. When I originally built the sink, I used epoxy garage floor paint. This started show signs of failure after 1 year of use. The new video shows how I fixed the issue using Liquid FlexSeal (Yes, the stuff from the info-mercial)

@@lightdark3729 Thank you! I'm in the process of redoing or refurbishing my darkroom sink.

@@fredmccarroll3476 Let us know how it goes. I will try to post follow up reviews to show how the coating is holding up. So far I am very pleased with it. It really makes the water bead up which makes clean up easier

It has been almost a year and it has held up great. I think the trick was that I did 5 coats. The last time I did this I used Marine Epoxy paint. It lasted about 5 years before it needed attention. However, the garage floor paint cost about 1/2 of what the Marine Epoxy paint did.

Update to your question. Last night, while preparing to do a printing session, I noticed a chip in the paint. Apparently I had dropped something in the sink and it exposed the bare wood. Not really happy about it. The plywood I used was factory primed and as you know, I put 5 coats of paint on it. I am currently in the process of sanding the sink to down so that I can repaint it. This time I am going with white FlexSeal paint. Another listener to the podcast used that and is very pleased with it. I will try to post a video update on it.

I first drilled the hole then drew a circle around the hole about 1/2 outside of it. I then routed out to the line about 1/8 of an inch down so that when I sat the drain in the hole that it was just slightly below the bottom of the sink. Once I had the hole routed properly, I painted the sink with 5 coats of the garage floor paint. I then took the plumbers putty and made a rope out of it (like you would playdough) made that into a circle and laid it into the routed out section. After placing the drain with the lip on top of the putty I fastened it down. If I had it to do over again, I would have used a kitchen sink drain instead of a bar sink drain. I may still go back and replace it someday.

Parts 2 & 3 have been uploaded, the series is complete! Sorry for the delay and thank you for your patience. Be sure to check out my podcast 'A Light in the Dark' on all major podcast platforms along with the Facebook Group. facebook.com/groups/1574457682653272/

Thanks for that. The base of the sink, what thickness did you use? Is the wood marine ply or just ordinary ply wood?

@@jag24x The base and walls of the sink are made from 3/4 plywood. It is important that you be precise on the cuts. Don't let your big box store cut it, the will screw it up. If you don't have access to the proper tools then go to a proper lumber yard and have them cut it. www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Blondewood-3-4-in-Whitewood-Plywood-Application-as-4-X-8/50121139

Parts 2 & 3 have been uploaded, the series is complete! Sorry for the delay and thank you for your patience. Be sure to check out my podcast 'A Light in the Dark' on all major podcast platforms along with the Facebook Group. facebook.com/groups/1574457682653272/

It really works. I should have raised the shelf a bit higher because some 36 image rolls are slightly too long. But my negs are very clean and dust free. I use photoflo mixed with distilled water and a gentle rubber squeegee when I hang them up to get rid of the spots

Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J617PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Although I see them pop up on Craigslist

Once the sink is complete I will seal it with 2 coats of epoxy garage floor paint. The last one I made was still water tight after 10 years

@@johngregory8526 Ofcourse! Great idea, subscribed!