Відео

@@1madgerman yeah it did. Dirt tricks manual tensioner

@@1madgerman sorry no it wasn’t dirt tricks they were from rally raid 👍

Hey no worries man, you're welcome glad it helped. Big difference between comfort and sport eh

@@Mr.Winston a great difference. Glad that your video helped

Hey man, you're welcome, nice Superduke bud, & happy new year to you too

Sold the bike last Christmas but I think it was like 16 full turns. Which lifts the rear of the bike up quite high, which I liked & it felt a bit more forward and 'on the nose' in the twisties

Sold the bike last Christmas but no. It only ever did those 3 sort of clicks?

You're welcome man! Hope you had a go with the spanners and set yours how you like it too

No. I cut the baffle out

Hi mate, could be totally normal. Is it quite a loud ticking coming from the top of either cylinder? Do they both sound the same as each other? they are a little ticky normally. On the motocross bikes you can hear when they go bad easier and the ones they use for the LC8 bikes is basically the same. If they fail the noise you'll be hearing will be the cam chain slapping away and if it skips teeth on the cams and the timing goes out of whack the piston could hit the valves. I think i've got a video of how mine sounded after I check mine?

ua-cam.com/video/f3q7k_dobuw/v-deo.html Does yours sound like that? or a lot louder?

@@Mr.Winston hmmm it sounds kinda similar but I'm honestly not too sure. It kinda has the rattling noise like your does, and I can feel the Noise vibrate through the bike. It only has 2700 miles tho, I can't imagine something being wrong with the valves or cam tensioner this early...

You're very welcome

Roll on a bit of pre-load

She's gone. Chopped in for a 790R :D She had 14k miles or so on her. Great bike with big power. Taught me a lot

@@Mr.Winston wow. What do you think of the 790?

@@donnym2103 I’ve had it two weeks but only ridden it three times because of how bad the UK weather is atm. It’s a great bike. Take an 1190R and take off like 40 kgs. Then move the weight you have up higher and move it lower. It feels great on the road. Off-road you feel like the weight it were you would put it if you had to have it. Which.. you do haha it can’t weigh nothing. You’re losing 50 odd hp but with how good the quick shifter is up and down you don’t miss it. She’s hardly much slower at all at full throttle because you don’t break traction on the up shifts. It’s a great bike and I just can’t wait to actually get out there and use it!

What is it then? It has 'R' and '+' & '-' written on it..

Are both of you tensioners behaving the same way? Or has one reset properly in the head and is strong and one not?

@@Mr.Winston at first only the rear one (the one I took of to do valve clearences) since it was behaving in a weird way I took the front one to reset and check... now both of them do the same... bike has 50.000km

@@MauroRubioGiletta Wait.. so.. were are you now in the process? Have you finished with the rear cylinder and put everything back in place and tightened it all down and moved to the front cylinder?

@@Mr.Winston front cylinder has more slack than the rear one with both tensioners activated... I did some interesting test... Basically activated both tensioners and put ir all together with tensioners doing the weird thing., just to make the engine run and build oil pressure into them. Put everything apart again and re check the tensoners behavior. Rear one was tighter and looked like the oil in the tensioner was doing his job, not the same way the fron one... still has slack

No worries mate. Yeah same set up on the 1090R and 1290R too I believe. My new 790R is a bit diff though

Well put it this way. You reset them by pushing out all of the oil. Then push them down to 2.5mm. One of them was behaving like this and one was fine. So I wasn’t going to run the risk of skipping teeth @2,000 rpm on start up But you are right they work on oil pressure

.... How? I literally talked you through it all

@@Mr.Winston I MANAGED

Hey Raúl, no worries man how did you get on adjusting yours? What settings do you prefer?

Sport is the way to go bud. I'll put up another video talking through the diffs and maybe even use a zip tie to show levels of compression under heavy load on the front forks vs sport and comfort..

Odd maybe mines fucked then but i basically feel three stages I can pic from. one click left.. Central and one click right. What does yours do? Actually do full turns?

Mr Wilson mine the same as yours

Hi there mate, 235 lbs.. yeah I'd get some more compression dialed in for your weight. You can add a little pre-load in there too but bare in mind pre-load is just PRE- LOADING the spring so its already somewhat in compression. It doesn't firm anything up. I suppose the idea is that initially the spring is softer/ more easily compressible than when its is almost fully compressed? Try dialing in some fast and slow speed compression with a few clicks/ turns of pre-load and see how see feels. Best to do ONE adjustment at a time though or you'd struggle to know what each change has done.

It clicks on each completed turn. So say it clicks at 12 o'clock. A full rotation 'turn' is the done when you hear and feel a click. Does that make sense?

Rick Roe No! You must have the engine at TDC. Are you swapping in manual ones? Have you started taking the bike apart yet? I checked my valves recently but I haven’t finished the videos yet. I’ve got two up on checking the tensioners once they are in. Let me know if you need guidance mate

@@Mr.Winston thank you!! No, I'm going to year it down in a couple of weeks check the valves, change plugs and change the tensioners. I am waiting on the new tensioners I bought the Dirt Tricks tensioners.

@@rckr951 Were you able to change them? Are they still running good? Do you have any recording of the sound of the enginve before and after?

@@robdeskseasea8348 no, i ended up selling the bike

Rick Roe Hi Rick, Yes very easy to install the more difficult part was setting them. I’m actually doing my valve clearances this weekend again and I’m filming it all so I’ll post another video specifically on them and which ones I used

@@Mr.Winston thank you, I've ordered new ones and waiting for them to come in. Going to change the plugs and check the valves while I'm at it also. I bought the bike used and has 41,000 miles on it. Motor seems to be a little noisy hopefully the valves are in spec and the tensioners quiet it down. Look forward to the video!!

Rick Roe Check my video about my engine noise now with the manual one against yours. LC8 engines are quite noisy and if you’re not used to it they are quite a weird noise Might be totally fine but great idea to check the valves etc. 👍

Take the end can off. Sit it on a work surface. Take out the bolts holding the end cap on. Then with a Dremel cut around the lip, giving yourself enough space to re-weld the can back on again later. Then get the dremel again and cut INSIDE the actual exhaust pipe because the end cap won't come off until you do. Then pull out the exhaust pipe from inside the can. Now here you can either just re-weld the cap back on or remove everything from inside the end can, the packing etc. Simple. I do have a few pictures but not sure how to add pictures to a video yet. If I work it out i'll add them in and update the video. This guy has pictures .. ua-cam.com/video/3JqJOMWR3tk/v-deo.html

@@Mr.Winston did you re-weld the cap only or remove everything from the inside? I bought another OEM Muffler to do that change, but want to know what have you done...

@@pmcr2000 Hi Pedro, I just re-welded the end cap. I left everything inside. I think it made a small but good difference to be honest. I fit a Superduke van after a while and that was a good bit better. A deeper tone

Robert Ferreira. The tensioner failed upon being reset in the cylinder head. Prior to being taken out for the valve shin adjustment it ran as it should tensioner wise. I remove these and fitted manual tensioners from rally raid

Hi mate, these are the tensioners I used. They are for the single cylinder bikes originally but they fit. Buy new o-rings because they don't come with them. ktmtwins.com/products/rally-raid-ktm-manual-1 You want 3-4mm of 'play/ slack' in the chain at TDC on each cylinder. Let me know how you get on if you fit them!

Oh, thank you for the answer, I found your topic on advrider and already ordered tensioners. The way the original tensioners work causes great concern. Is the chain adjustment shown on the video correct?

@@ДенисБуланов-б2м My original tensioners broke when I reset them in the cylinder heads but yes there is a lot of talk about the automatic ones being a weak point. The slack I had here was SLIGHTLY too much. Measure for 3/4mm and put everything back together, you CAN make very very small adjustments such as 1/32 of a turn at a time to the tensioner with the bike running if you aren't happy with the chain noise going away but I didn't do this because I thought it was too risky. I've only read that another guy did it and it worked fine.

Hey, thanks for the video I know this is years old I just replaced my cam tensioners on my 1290r. Was the 3/4 mm slack spec from a shop repair manual?