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Quick question. Audi a6 c6 2009 3.0 tdi car blown the turbo and broke actuator arm turbo replaced actuator still the same but car is running of a cylinder and pumping out blue smoke engine is jumpy would this be the cause of this?

I have a problem With my b8.5. Heater dusnt blow heat and afther 15 min i rev a few times and it blows hot air. Maby you know if its the waterpump or the thermostaat ?

Great video!! Really easy step-by-step instruction, nice work!

Great job and thanks for the video. Also have same car and engine for the same year. Thanks a lot.

Everyone - you're right pointing out the wrong alignment. must be done in the neutral position. I put some ideas together in an addendum video. thanks for picking that up and pointing it out.

Yep , you did a good job , I did the did the same work on mine 4 years ago...except that, I don't know if you checked throttle body of the intake pipe (where the EGR return is attached to the main air intake right in front, above the radiator, driver's side ) usually that gets clogged up carbon and blocks egr gases to reenter inside the engine. I realized that by luck as I was inspecting mine.... and it does not give any faul but you feel that small loss of feedback on takeoffs. Unfortunately I'm at another road turn, as now... mine needs a dpf replacement that probably was caused by a faulty injector... as for a wile I was hearing a ticking noise in the engine head on cold start , especially in winter... then blue smoke coming out from the exhaust ... I ignored it and now here I am... hope to get over this too because it would be a petty, the engine runs like a Swiss clock when it runs well. Funny though that I'm not getting any faults...same case for the egr clogged return circuit (that in my opinion is more of a engineering design fault) Seems like Audi needs some extra improvement in these areas. as they could save owners a lot of headaches , prevent fatal engine failure in some cases and make their cars last longer. It would be a petty for such good cars but no one is perfect unfortunately...

Great Saffa wrenching bud also got swirl flap issue 4F A6 avant tdi...will delete em via Kess.

My car is Audi i have same problem im in UAE 😢

So, definitely need to remove the strut?

I don't really understand, how can i tighten the upper control arm bolt while the tire is on, there is no room. and how can i measure the neutral position with out the tire on. If I use the hydraulic lift all the way up where do i stop? If i lyft the brake disk all the way up will I damage the car, how do i know when to stop?😅

good afternoon to all and on the pneumatic Audi A6 /S6 sedan III 3.2 FSI quattro how to adjust the angles of the upper levers.what is the distance to throw off the pliz diagram Height for the front lever … Height for rear lever …

Nice addendum to the first video. Another way to get the correct position of the control arms is to measure the distance from the fender to the center of the hub BEFORE raising it. Once the replacements are made (prior to tightening the inner bolts) you can jack the hub back up to this measurement to get the perfect alignment. Cheers!

😢 քʀօʍօֆʍ

Hi mate can you tell me where i could find the bolt for upper arms?

Would reinstalling the bolts inwards benifit the next mechanic, that way you won't have to take it out completely. What's the science behind it. Sometimes I feel like Audi does shit like this just to make it harder. I did a starter replacement also on this a6 which was an inconvenient bolt Situation too.

I had this change now it squeals when I turn, what might be the cause

i can tell you from biter experience, its not this easy when you live in the UK with salted winter roads, more often than not, that top pinch bolt will shear, I only wanted to replace the upper control arms but ended up buying all suspension links as well as a steering knuckle as that damn bolt would not come out. I watched your video before i started this job and thought - well thats easy enough, i can do this, and 4 weekends later, the car is still off the road - eeeeish!

Great job mate,am impressed by the way you took your time and walk around the job many thanks

Great Video. Do You must take the whole part out to change the arms? Can one of the upper arms be change without removing everything? Thanks

Great video, very clear, one of the best I've seen. I couldn't see an axle stand any where, I assume you didn't use one?

Quick question - did you only jack up one side of the car? Excellent video - this makes me more confident for doing it on my own! 👍🙌 Thanks!

3:00 My friend, when you place that Jack under the car, that spring loaded plate MUST be flat with the ground! That could be a crucial mistake. I bet that spring on the jack it's crushed down towards the plate.

Hey bud, Thank you very much for putting up this instructional video as I myself need to do the control arms on my C6 however the follow up video I am a bit puzzled by, what is classified as a neutral position, I am not sure which way is the best way to re attach the bolts from the strut to the knuckle.

Gedore Vanadium this is beautiful tools.

Hi All - I'm adding a correction to aligning the control arms as per the comment from 04Interc3ptorP71 and Gladius. Click on the link in the video at the end.

Please note 04Interc3ptorP71 - and disclaimer - do this fix at your own risk. I can't guarantee this fix won't cause any damage. Mine worked out well with 60 000 km later no issues.

Works performed at a nice, patient pace with sensible filming. Think I might give it a go if my A6 fails its MOT test....Many thanks

Great Job !

Never tighten the upper control arm bolts down until the suspension is at ride height. Use a jack to raise the suspension to about the point where it would be with the wheel on and on the ground. This will also help seat the upper control arms in the spindle. If you don't do this, you will tear the bushings out.

How did u remove bolt clip off?

There is a major mistake from 19:38 to 20:08. You only tighten these upper bolts when the car suspension is under load and the control arms are in a neutral position. To do that, place a jack under the steering knuckle and take the weight of the car, then tighten the bolts. Otherwise it will cause premature failure of the control arm bushes.

been looking for 4F video, thank you.