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Vitalize Seed
Приєднався 14 бер 2021
All about no-till regenerative-ag soil building methodologies and timber stand improvement techniques, focusing on oak regeneration and creating secondary successional habitat for wildlife. I will show how we treat invasive species, why we treat them and document our timber harvest when the time comes.
The goal is to track and show our progress in increasing soil health through diverse plantings that focus on carbon sequestration, feeding mycorrhizae, feeding whitetail deer, increasing organic matter, increasing the nutrient density of the plants, all while reducing inputs and no-tilling. From wildlife food plots to gardening, we will be implementing these ideologies with the goal of always working to create MUCH better soil.
Please follow along on our journey for better soil and native timber!
The goal is to track and show our progress in increasing soil health through diverse plantings that focus on carbon sequestration, feeding mycorrhizae, feeding whitetail deer, increasing organic matter, increasing the nutrient density of the plants, all while reducing inputs and no-tilling. From wildlife food plots to gardening, we will be implementing these ideologies with the goal of always working to create MUCH better soil.
Please follow along on our journey for better soil and native timber!
Відео
Common No-Till Mistakes (Food Plots)
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Місяць тому
Common No-Till Mistakes (Food Plots)
A Journey to A Better Whitetail Farm - part 1! Soils and Saws
Переглядів 3342 місяці тому
A Journey to A Better Whitetail Farm - part 1! Soils and Saws
Roller crimper updates and facts part 2
Переглядів 2362 місяці тому
Roller crimper updates and facts part 2
Tissue testing to reduce fertilizer needs - part 2
Переглядів 393 місяці тому
Tissue testing to reduce fertilizer needs - part 2
The Science behind cover crops resulting in reduced fertility!
Переглядів 1213 місяці тому
The Science behind cover crops resulting in reduced fertility!
Cover crop physical termination for soil health building
Переглядів 2363 місяці тому
Cover crop physical termination for soil health building
Planting early to build soil? Constant ROOTS!!
Переглядів 1494 місяці тому
Planting early to build soil? Constant ROOTS!!
Food plot exclusion fence? Why does it matter?
Переглядів 984 місяці тому
Food plot exclusion fence? Why does it matter?
Using biology to move Phosphorus in soils
Переглядів 6704 місяці тому
Using biology to move Phosphorus in soils
Soil CO2 burst - let’s talk about it.
Переглядів 654 місяці тому
Soil CO2 burst - let’s talk about it.
Humics and Fish Fert?! Let’s talk about it!
Переглядів 724 місяці тому
Humics and Fish Fert?! Let’s talk about it!
If I wanted to limit herbicide and I planted green with a Saya, what would be my best method for termination of the standing crop? I have a heavy roller crimper from I&J, or I could mow. I’m just not sure which will work best as the Saya will lay it down but not effectively crimp it and it’ll stand back up. Perhaps I crimp first, then drill. But I’d have to go in the same direction and the width of my drill and crimper don’t match so I’d have a hard time keeping a correct #’s/ac of seed. Do you think a crimper would be effective going over the green crop that the Saya laid down?
Yes. I did a few videos on where we drilled then crimped. I don’t have as nice of a crimper as you do! We’ve still had good luck. I then re-use herbicide when needed - based on species composition of the field. But I’ve absolute reduced herbicide use by drilling,crimping, and praying for rain.
I do agree…..to a point of…before no-till drills what was done before….plow then disk then seed. And then we developed chemicals to kill the weed and grass that helped with no till. I can’t get a no till drill to my plots so I lightly till a inch or two then seed and roll. Chemicals are much better than plowing deep and disking and so on. My dad always said before they would plant a new field they would use buckwheat. Then plow and disk and seed…..NO chemicals. He was born in 1920. Good job.
Why herbicide? and not another form of termination?
I use various termination methods - including a crimper. I also do extensive testing - such as plfa to monitor biological health of the soils. I use herbicide as a tool in the tool box. Goal will be to use physical termination next spring on a large portion of farm. Hope this helps answer your question.
I'm still not able to get mine adjusted properly. Spring plots were so bad with poor seed penetration I bought another Land Pride tiller, taking a step backwards. I'm about to plant fall plots after some rains and a light re-tilling in the next couple weeks and hope to eventually stop tilling again if I can ever get to the point of something desirable growing throughout the seasons. My MX6000 can only lift about 2400#, so I have an extra 375# across the coulters. With a full load of seeds that's about max for my machine. I'll try removing the back flaps as I still cultipack after seeding and don't need them. Any other ideas? Still would like to find someone qualified to help me go over this thing (we had exchanged emails last year). Selling dealer only sold 2 (I think) and even though I had one of their techs out to go over it this spring there was zero improvement in seed placement. It was a total failure and the worst of the three plantings I have done so far.
@@keadog1838 hey there! Yes I recall we did have some emails. When you say seed penetration - are you cutting at all? Is the seed falling into the furrow? Have you continued to adjust top link?
@@VitalizeSeed Yes, some cutting but not consistent. Most seeds are lined up fairly well with slits but again not perfect. Our ground is pretty uneven/hilly, so I'm hoping that going back to subsurface tilling and cultipacking will over time smooth things out some. I think the double disc top link is as far as it can go but not getting an inch deep. I'm not using the small box at all - still hand spreading and then cultipacking small seeds. I only plant about 5 acres total right now so it's still possible to do those segments by hand. It's certainly not what I imagined so far. I would have preferred a 3' Gensis even then for better weight/penetration but no dealer within hundreds of miles.
@@keadog1838 do you think it’s not consistent due to balance of drill or not enough pressure? Are you in top holes on 3pt? I’ll do more videos tomorrow of mine in hopes it’ll help.
@@VitalizeSeed I'll check 3 pt placement later today. Not sure if it's a problem with balance or down pressure. We got some rain last night so I'll give it a few days to let any upturned weed seeds germinate and till again. I'm assuming the drill will perform better in tilled soil that's smoother, but that doesn't help my long term goal of actual no till (for now). Thanks though - would like to get this figured out...
Yes, in top hole for 3 point. Drive wheel contacts ground OK already. Just not getting good seed depth. We got some rain so I'm going to wait a few days for weed germination, retill and then star playing with 507. It will be easier to see what's going on in a smooth, tilled bed but my goal is still to eventually get back to no till.
Al- I really appreciate all of the knowledge you’re bringing to us for free. Your help setting up a drill meant a lot to me. Keep up the good work.
@@ryantiminey9058 thanks a lot man!! I’m happy you enjoy it. Please feel free to suggest any topics you’d like covered. Always looking to add value to viewers!
Great video guys!
Thanks so much!
To reiterate so I understand, you removed the back flaps because you plant green. Meaning you don’t have a tilled field to work with so the flaps don’t do their job on a green field so there is no sense on keeping them on?
@@ryantiminey9058 correct. So when drill green I have sometimes 2-10ft of biomass I’m drilling into. When I removed that flap, I noticed better down pressure on the roller basket - which drives the seed gear box. Although I’m not closing the furrow with the flap. I haven’t seen it as an issue - as I have 2-4inch of thatch being laid over and then crimped or sprayed. Hope this helps sir.
@@VitalizeSeedI understood you correctly then, thank you.
@@ryantiminey9058 anytime!!! Thank you!
What’s the tractor and drill setup you have there?
@@jarrodmistic case 75 and tar River 507 - thanks for the comment man!
Will be doing basal treatment soon of ToH on my land in VA. This year for the 1st time we got massive lantern fly infestation too since they luv ToH.
How old is the brassica? They say if they are planted to early and become less pallitable the deer won't hit em very hard especially if there's decent forage or other AG around, everyone is gonna have different results depending there location, soil, herd...etc and brassica needs alot of N, especially uria
Great information, browse pressure on both food plots and native sources can provide a great insight into the carrying capacity of a property. I also like to use trail camera data in conjunction with the browse observations to help determine age structure, sex ratios, etc. to further determine my personal management objectives.
@@butleroutdoors2188 absolutely! I have a checklist I go through from hunting observations to timed trail camera data analysis to browse pressure surveys. This allows me to feel confident in my pressure on the trigger.
Honestly, i dont get excited over huge bulbs. The way i see it, top growth feeds the deer, bulbs feed the soil. I actually hope to have bulbs rotting in the ground come the following spring. If my bulbs get hammered by the deer in my eyes that means i didnt have other forages.
@@brendanomeally8070 I love this!! I absolutely can relate and appreciate that! If I don’t have forage left over. I better manage deer populations or plant more food.
Do you seed into and then spray/crimp? Or spray then seed
@@user-jd6pp1yw6p normally spray. Let it dry. Drill or broadcast. Then roll, mow or leave it.
What about the fact that there is one sorghum plant in you while field? Why change what works?
@@ryanharkins9383 I’m sorry Ryan - I’m not sure I understand your comment or question.
Do you think with crab grass being a summer grass, it wouldn’t be too much of an issue if you just crimped and didn’t spray. I’m wanting to go herbicide-free on my plots, so just interests in your thoughts.
@@jasonduncan9943 that’s a great question. So if you are hoping to eliminate it. I’d suspect it’ll be variable on deer browse, soil fertility, PH, etc. I think if you eventually could get enough biomass to smother it- you might be able to take advantage of this. However, I’m fearful of other noxious weeds coming into the field - so just be sure to constantly be observing. Also - spot spraying is an option for those who don’t want to do entire large scale burn downs. This is a great way to reduce herbicide. Thanks for comment and watching.
Looking good Al I’ll be doing the same next Saturday!
@@novchild1968 thank you!! Growths been phenomenal- considering we are in a D2 drought in Ohio. No till has saved the farm for sure!
Great vid. Excited to try your product
@@Ryan_YoungUSA thanks so much sir!
Can I broadcast this, and do i need to till, or is sprayed and mowed ground sufficient
@@Ryan_YoungUSA I just broadcasted some today before a rain. It’s the main way I plant clover. If there is a lot of weed competition - spraying it off can help.
I hope you would consider doing a "Garden Time with Al" series (as if you weren't busy enough, lol). You are an excellent communicator of ideas and practices in very digestible ways. I know I have an interest in growing food plots to feed deer along with fruits and vegetables to feed my family. Both are quite an undertaking, but so much fun (and incredibly frustrating)! Plus, getting to see 70+ year old Italian Heirloom tomatoes grown and harvested would be a bonus. Thanks for all the helpful and interesting videos
Stoked to try it this year
@@Ryan_YoungUSA we sure do appreciate you sir.
So are you going to do the pollination manually or are you going the "promiscuous tomatoes" route? Which is what Joseph Lofthouse called his tomato project. In that case you have to also select for bigger, more open, more attractive flowers if I remember correctly. Another guideline is to keep adding new genetics to improve the diversity of the genetic pool, ie the plants' toolbox, and also to avoid a genetic depression.
@@tomatito3824 great questions. My plan is to simply save seeds with a purpose and allow it to pollinate as nature intends. I plan to take seeds based on a few different categories and then plant again next year. And continue this for my lifetime. This variation is 70+ years old and passed down - so my hope is that it’s genetic makeup is fine for my lifetime and by cross pollinating various genetic superiorities with other genetic superiorities based on observational analysis - the blend (over time) will result in an ever better tasting and yielding tomato. I’ll update as I go! Thank you!!
@@VitalizeSeed Sounds good! I'll stay tuned 👍
With the drill lifted and level. Are the coulters and the double discs level with each other? If I run the drive wheel adjustment all the way out , the double disks kind of lift and run shallow. Are you usally the counters as your seed depth determinant?
@@mattgeib2487 that’s the battle here is the drill wants to “teeter totter” on the double discs. We’ve found a happy medium but it’s taken a lot of adjusting and re-adjusting.
Found if the very first thing u do is spreed seed it works best. I typically seed, lime, i like chicken manure fertilizer at planting then spot spray weed than cultipack. Farmer told me that way all the different activities work seed to soil. Seems like 70 80% seed germination. Oats are only ones little hard to get going.
That’s a great thing to have it separated like that. Although different size seeds can be mixed, having it separate adds to the versatility.
Al, have you found that broadcasting fertilizer into a no till situation (without discing in) is a waste of time? For instance, if I was showing low Phosphorus in a long term no till field, I should disc in the fertilizer? Thanks for the videos.
@@bradmckinney922 thanks for watching and the comment. So I wouldn’t plan on synthetic p moving in most soils to drive yield. I’d focus on organic forms, highly diverse cover crops to move p in soils, etc. I did some TND (total nutrient digest testing) on sandy soils and found that the P levels in 6 inches were enough for many many many years - that was sub 1% OM. The best way to have them become available is through biology or organic forms. In my experience. Without it - we will likely have what’s called nutrient stratification.
When would you put chicken litter down for a mid August planting?
If you plant them too crowded, deer might not like it
@@vodekz1534 that’s a great point. That would really impact the plants nutrients and health as well, this of course is variable depending on the quality of the soil in which it’s grown. In general, less is more with brassicas per acre. Also stressed plants don’t do a great job of full proteins conversion- resulting in further less attractiveness to those concentrated selectors.
I use one, but only with the tines "up". My plots originated with a Fecon mulcher, which leaves lots of "bats" and shreds of wood- which will catch and clog your drag if your tines are face-down! If doing a fine soil bed w/o weeds or clumps of mulch, the tines will help bust up that top 3-4" of soil and mix some of your seed in with the dirt. Otherwise, I'll drag tines-up, then pack the soil.
Very excited to get our Carbon load I. The ground for the 1st time. This is gonna be great.
@@adamwinkelman3625 let’s goo!!!!!!!
Awesome stuff Al! Great detail and information on why you do what you do and how it’s positively impacted the habitat.
@@warnerhuntohio1129 thank you!! I hope to do more and get into more details as well!!! I appreciate you buddy!
Great work!
@@butleroutdoors2188 thank you so much!!
Deer problem? Sound like the plot is producing plenty of food opportunities
@@hasmanknitter4082 no problem - just good to observe so we can maximize food per acre per mouth! Thanks for watching!
Just finished tilling 2 1/2 acres of hayfield with a 4’ tiller. I don’t care to do that again. Someone on one of the food plot groups mentioned you and your 2 step system. I’m very interested in trying it. My question is if I terminate the grass and weeds then broadcast and cultipack will I get sufficient seed to soil contact ? This is a 200 year old hayfield with a lot of thatch. Thank you!
@@woodyaborn5641 it can be done but normally you need to time it with a rain and increase seed rate. Please send me an email. I believe you may have over weekend - I responded. It might have gone to spam folder / please check. We can setup a phone call to discuss as well. Thanks for the opportunity!!
@@VitalizeSeed thank you for responding. I’ve planted everything for this year. Wanted to go up June 1st to plant spring stuff but tractor was down. So I went last week and planted my spring stuff(too late) and my fall stuff( too early). Not sure how that’s gonna work. I do want to be ready with knowledge and equipment for next spring . I’m hung up on seed to soil contact. The 2 1/2 acres I tilled this week maybe ok next spring as far as thatch goes. When is a good time to call? Thank you!
@@woodyaborn5641 give me a call Friday. Happy 4th!!
@@VitalizeSeed thank you!
You probably gave me your number but I don’t see it here, thanks again!
It’s the 140 rule. Don’t spray if temp + humidity are more than 140.
@@justinkelley4984 great tip! I like that! Thanks for sharing!! I recall some super interesting testing also where they sprayed late at night, vs. daytime and they found superior microbial co2 respiration and plant absorption at night - due to microbes being more active. Super interesting stuff. Thanks for comment and watching, buddy!
This is soo cool!! Glad to hear you care and love them so much and so excited about it! Wishing for the best!
Great video , one of my followers just referred me to this video . I did the same to my food plot two weeks ago . Having great success with the Throw and Mow . You got a new sub 😉 from me 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks so much!!!
Great, this looks wonderful. Ignore my last comment.
It’s the setting your property is around from what I’ve found. If your in AG area they prefer soybeans because they are 34% protein versus brassicas are 24% or less. No AG around the deer aren’t as picky.
Good points Justin! I’m sure that makes a difference. Once the AG is off - you’d think the draw to that protein would be significant. However, that response does seem variable regardless of the area. I personally believe that’s where it becomes a microbial piece and association with below ground fungi and nutrient uptake but that’s just a theory of mine. Thanks for the watch and comment.
Also I think a lot of food plotters disregard the micronutrients of all plants. So I will be experimenting of increasing the boron copper manganese and other micronutrient levels in my brassicas this fall.
@@justinkelley4984 I agree!! Keep us updated on results!! Good luck this fall!
Can we use rotary to mix this in soil ??
You can - however, keep in mind that when you do that you stimulate microbes which in turn is going to use that more as a food source now - then a slow release fertilizer. So as it breakdown, so will some OM. If trying to increase the OM in the total soil profile - I’d recommend not tilling it in and focus more so on natural cycling that occurs from subsequent plantings.
@@VitalizeSeed if i dont till it in soil then how i manage this? Just lay down on ground if i lay it on ground then how i will sow seed of next crop ??
@@Ultimatefitness360 so yes typically if planting green you can drill through it. Or you can broadcast then mow off. Spray off. Crimp/crush
@@VitalizeSeed ok bro thnks ,
Hugely important, good stuff.
Thank you!!
Weed pressure????
Certainly weed pressure can be an issue - this field was planted in our carbon load last fall. It was virtually “weed” free. I do expect to get some of the clovers and chicory to survive. The other field is at about 60-70% term rate. I’ll keep updating throughout the growing season.
Beautiful field!
Awesome! Great info
Picture perfect
I Al i have the same no till drill that you have what number do you set to plant the nitro boost and the carbon load thank you
I don’t recall off the top of my head. I think it’s between 2-3. But my metered setting has some play in it. If you email me or text me - I can send you my calibration notes.
@@VitalizeSeed thank you Al I appreciate it I want to see if I can build the soil in one and half acres I have lime it how much fertilizer would you suggest for nitro boost thank you for replying back to me
@@giuseppevitale1552 anytime! Please see my email albert@vitalizeseed.com - contact me anytime.
I laid down 2 semi loads of gravel on my driveway 20 years ago. It was probably 8 inches thick. Today the grass is back and black dirt is visible. It sure gets muddy now when it rains. I need more gravel, but I sure realize how mother nature builds soil.
As a Marine veteran, thank you very much for this!
Thank you sir! Email me for the code!
I planted Beets n Greens 2 years now and the deer dont touch them. Now a friend of mine that lives 12 miles north of me plants the same thing and the deer absolutely destroy them. I'm sticking with clover as it's easy to grow and the deer hit it hard.
Heck ya buddy! Clovers great! We use clover in all our mixes. Absolutely a work horse for both soils and deer. Thanks for watching and the comment.
What a plot! WOW!
Thanks Tyler! Mr. D has put in a lot of work!!
How many herbicides ya got coating those leaves?
None - this is a diverse mix of this was a fescue pasture so we burned it down once and no tilled into it with our 16 way mix. We use diverse mixes to outcompete weeds. We don’t have time to use selective herbicides nor would it work with our system. Thanks for comment.
@@VitalizeSeed It was meant as more of a response to whomever isn't attracting deer to their brassica plot
@@brushcrawler8612 ah! Yea - I can’t speak to that but I’d say just from speaking to a lot of foodplotters - they have issues with it (depending on the area). I’ve planted them all over and never had an issue. Although I haven’t planted them in monocultures in many many years. Thanks again for comment. Have a blessed day!
The people trying to make money tells you that deers eat Brassica. It takes multiple years to Condition the deers to eat it. Just like deers don't use mock vines nor do Bucks even dare to walk into an open food plot in the middle of the day.