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Yes. I did a few videos on where we drilled then crimped. I don’t have as nice of a crimper as you do! We’ve still had good luck. I then re-use herbicide when needed - based on species composition of the field. But I’ve absolute reduced herbicide use by drilling,crimping, and praying for rain.

I use various termination methods - including a crimper. I also do extensive testing - such as plfa to monitor biological health of the soils. I use herbicide as a tool in the tool box. Goal will be to use physical termination next spring on a large portion of farm. Hope this helps answer your question.

@@keadog1838 hey there! Yes I recall we did have some emails. When you say seed penetration - are you cutting at all? Is the seed falling into the furrow? Have you continued to adjust top link?

@@VitalizeSeed Yes, some cutting but not consistent. Most seeds are lined up fairly well with slits but again not perfect. Our ground is pretty uneven/hilly, so I'm hoping that going back to subsurface tilling and cultipacking will over time smooth things out some. I think the double disc top link is as far as it can go but not getting an inch deep. I'm not using the small box at all - still hand spreading and then cultipacking small seeds. I only plant about 5 acres total right now so it's still possible to do those segments by hand. It's certainly not what I imagined so far. I would have preferred a 3' Gensis even then for better weight/penetration but no dealer within hundreds of miles.

@@keadog1838 do you think it’s not consistent due to balance of drill or not enough pressure? Are you in top holes on 3pt? I’ll do more videos tomorrow of mine in hopes it’ll help.

@@VitalizeSeed I'll check 3 pt placement later today. Not sure if it's a problem with balance or down pressure. We got some rain last night so I'll give it a few days to let any upturned weed seeds germinate and till again. I'm assuming the drill will perform better in tilled soil that's smoother, but that doesn't help my long term goal of actual no till (for now). Thanks though - would like to get this figured out...

Yes, in top hole for 3 point. Drive wheel contacts ground OK already. Just not getting good seed depth. We got some rain so I'm going to wait a few days for weed germination, retill and then star playing with 507. It will be easier to see what's going on in a smooth, tilled bed but my goal is still to eventually get back to no till.

@@ryantiminey9058 thanks a lot man!! I’m happy you enjoy it. Please feel free to suggest any topics you’d like covered. Always looking to add value to viewers!

Thanks so much!

@@ryantiminey9058 correct. So when drill green I have sometimes 2-10ft of biomass I’m drilling into. When I removed that flap, I noticed better down pressure on the roller basket - which drives the seed gear box. Although I’m not closing the furrow with the flap. I haven’t seen it as an issue - as I have 2-4inch of thatch being laid over and then crimped or sprayed. Hope this helps sir.

@@VitalizeSeedI understood you correctly then, thank you.

@@ryantiminey9058 anytime!!! Thank you!

@@jarrodmistic case 75 and tar River 507 - thanks for the comment man!

@@butleroutdoors2188 absolutely! I have a checklist I go through from hunting observations to timed trail camera data analysis to browse pressure surveys. This allows me to feel confident in my pressure on the trigger.

@@brendanomeally8070 I love this!! I absolutely can relate and appreciate that! If I don’t have forage left over. I better manage deer populations or plant more food.

@@user-jd6pp1yw6p normally spray. Let it dry. Drill or broadcast. Then roll, mow or leave it.

@@ryanharkins9383 I’m sorry Ryan - I’m not sure I understand your comment or question.

Do you think with crab grass being a summer grass, it wouldn’t be too much of an issue if you just crimped and didn’t spray. I’m wanting to go herbicide-free on my plots, so just interests in your thoughts.

@@jasonduncan9943 that’s a great question. So if you are hoping to eliminate it. I’d suspect it’ll be variable on deer browse, soil fertility, PH, etc. I think if you eventually could get enough biomass to smother it- you might be able to take advantage of this. However, I’m fearful of other noxious weeds coming into the field - so just be sure to constantly be observing. Also - spot spraying is an option for those who don’t want to do entire large scale burn downs. This is a great way to reduce herbicide. Thanks for comment and watching.

@@novchild1968 thank you!! Growths been phenomenal- considering we are in a D2 drought in Ohio. No till has saved the farm for sure!

@@Ryan_YoungUSA thanks so much sir!

@@Ryan_YoungUSA I just broadcasted some today before a rain. It’s the main way I plant clover. If there is a lot of weed competition - spraying it off can help.

@@Ryan_YoungUSA we sure do appreciate you sir.

@@tomatito3824 great questions. My plan is to simply save seeds with a purpose and allow it to pollinate as nature intends. I plan to take seeds based on a few different categories and then plant again next year. And continue this for my lifetime. This variation is 70+ years old and passed down - so my hope is that it’s genetic makeup is fine for my lifetime and by cross pollinating various genetic superiorities with other genetic superiorities based on observational analysis - the blend (over time) will result in an ever better tasting and yielding tomato. I’ll update as I go! Thank you!!

@@VitalizeSeed Sounds good! I'll stay tuned 👍

@@mattgeib2487 that’s the battle here is the drill wants to “teeter totter” on the double discs. We’ve found a happy medium but it’s taken a lot of adjusting and re-adjusting.

@@bradmckinney922 thanks for watching and the comment. So I wouldn’t plan on synthetic p moving in most soils to drive yield. I’d focus on organic forms, highly diverse cover crops to move p in soils, etc. I did some TND (total nutrient digest testing) on sandy soils and found that the P levels in 6 inches were enough for many many many years - that was sub 1% OM. The best way to have them become available is through biology or organic forms. In my experience. Without it - we will likely have what’s called nutrient stratification.

@@vodekz1534 that’s a great point. That would really impact the plants nutrients and health as well, this of course is variable depending on the quality of the soil in which it’s grown. In general, less is more with brassicas per acre. Also stressed plants don’t do a great job of full proteins conversion- resulting in further less attractiveness to those concentrated selectors.

@@adamwinkelman3625 let’s goo!!!!!!!

@@warnerhuntohio1129 thank you!! I hope to do more and get into more details as well!!! I appreciate you buddy!

@@butleroutdoors2188 thank you so much!!

@@hasmanknitter4082 no problem - just good to observe so we can maximize food per acre per mouth! Thanks for watching!

@@woodyaborn5641 it can be done but normally you need to time it with a rain and increase seed rate. Please send me an email. I believe you may have over weekend - I responded. It might have gone to spam folder / please check. We can setup a phone call to discuss as well. Thanks for the opportunity!!

@@VitalizeSeed thank you for responding. I’ve planted everything for this year. Wanted to go up June 1st to plant spring stuff but tractor was down. So I went last week and planted my spring stuff(too late) and my fall stuff( too early). Not sure how that’s gonna work. I do want to be ready with knowledge and equipment for next spring . I’m hung up on seed to soil contact. The 2 1/2 acres I tilled this week maybe ok next spring as far as thatch goes. When is a good time to call? Thank you!

@@woodyaborn5641 give me a call Friday. Happy 4th!!

@@VitalizeSeed thank you!

You probably gave me your number but I don’t see it here, thanks again!

@@justinkelley4984 great tip! I like that! Thanks for sharing!! I recall some super interesting testing also where they sprayed late at night, vs. daytime and they found superior microbial co2 respiration and plant absorption at night - due to microbes being more active. Super interesting stuff. Thanks for comment and watching, buddy!

Thanks so much!!!

Good points Justin! I’m sure that makes a difference. Once the AG is off - you’d think the draw to that protein would be significant. However, that response does seem variable regardless of the area. I personally believe that’s where it becomes a microbial piece and association with below ground fungi and nutrient uptake but that’s just a theory of mine. Thanks for the watch and comment.

Also I think a lot of food plotters disregard the micronutrients of all plants. So I will be experimenting of increasing the boron copper manganese and other micronutrient levels in my brassicas this fall.

@@justinkelley4984 I agree!! Keep us updated on results!! Good luck this fall!

You can - however, keep in mind that when you do that you stimulate microbes which in turn is going to use that more as a food source now - then a slow release fertilizer. So as it breakdown, so will some OM. If trying to increase the OM in the total soil profile - I’d recommend not tilling it in and focus more so on natural cycling that occurs from subsequent plantings.

@@VitalizeSeed if i dont till it in soil then how i manage this? Just lay down on ground if i lay it on ground then how i will sow seed of next crop ??

@@Ultimatefitness360 so yes typically if planting green you can drill through it. Or you can broadcast then mow off. Spray off. Crimp/crush

@@VitalizeSeed ok bro thnks ,

Thank you!!

Certainly weed pressure can be an issue - this field was planted in our carbon load last fall. It was virtually “weed” free. I do expect to get some of the clovers and chicory to survive. The other field is at about 60-70% term rate. I’ll keep updating throughout the growing season.

I don’t recall off the top of my head. I think it’s between 2-3. But my metered setting has some play in it. If you email me or text me - I can send you my calibration notes.

@@VitalizeSeed thank you Al I appreciate it I want to see if I can build the soil in one and half acres I have lime it how much fertilizer would you suggest for nitro boost thank you for replying back to me

@@giuseppevitale1552 anytime! Please see my email albert@vitalizeseed.com - contact me anytime.

Thank you sir! Email me for the code!

Heck ya buddy! Clovers great! We use clover in all our mixes. Absolutely a work horse for both soils and deer. Thanks for watching and the comment.

Thanks Tyler! Mr. D has put in a lot of work!!

None - this is a diverse mix of this was a fescue pasture so we burned it down once and no tilled into it with our 16 way mix. We use diverse mixes to outcompete weeds. We don’t have time to use selective herbicides nor would it work with our system. Thanks for comment.

@@VitalizeSeed It was meant as more of a response to whomever isn't attracting deer to their brassica plot

@@brushcrawler8612 ah! Yea - I can’t speak to that but I’d say just from speaking to a lot of foodplotters - they have issues with it (depending on the area). I’ve planted them all over and never had an issue. Although I haven’t planted them in monocultures in many many years. Thanks again for comment. Have a blessed day!