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Thanks 👍

Thanks. It was with an Insta360 x3 and remote on the invisible selfie stick. Messed up recording the return flight as I accidentally put the camera into Loop Recording mode using the remote. Spent the return journey recording a handful or 15-second clips (Which recorded over itself) using just one camera lens, looking straight down! Not sure why Loop Recording needs to be a remote control option tbh. It's effectively dash cam mode.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it

www.coastwatersports.co.uk/holt-pillow-buoyancy-bag-pvc-p-1369.html 😉

I do, but I have changed the double pneumatic wheels for solid wheels because the air kept leaking out and I was forever pumping them up!

Very kind of you to say. You can buy big metal parcel boxes. A friend has one bolted to the front of his house. It has some kind of flap on the inside, so once a parcel drops inside, it can't be taken out without a key. Google this for garden walls: Penn Elcom Standard Green Parcel Box With Rear Door PBX1RD-GR

No, but it was simple enough. It was the handle from a long tree pruning tool. The type where you pull on some cord and the cutter on the end of the extending pole/handle closes round thin branches and cuts through them. I cut the two sections of the handle (inner and outer) so it was the same width of the canoe when not in use. I then screwed some white plastic pipe securing clips (found in any plumbers shop to attach pipework to walls) to the centre thwart to secure the handle. The float is the biggest ball valve float you can get for water tanks normally found in lofts, attached to the original plastic insert that once supported the cutting jaws of the original tool. Filed down slightly to allow it to be pulled out by hand, but firm enough to remain in place when needed. Then as the video shows, you capsize, you right the canoe, you extend the the handle/pole with a quarter turn to release it and lock it off once extended with another quarter turn. Then you grab the ball valve float and insert it into the handle/pole and climb back in. Simple. Bail out the canoe and retract the handle/pole, pull out the ball valve float and carry on with your day. Before I started using out riggers all the time, because I started using huge sails, it was an absolute life saver. Oh, eventually the handle/pole corrodes and you need to steel another one of your wifes pruning handles! 😉

These are made by Venture in England I believe. They use Corelite, which is a sandwich construction and provides buoyancy. While a fully flooded canoe won't support the weight of a person, it does mean the canoe won't sink to the bottom. The canoe now has fore and aft polystyrene buoyancy wedges and two side airbags, so it stays afloat now anyway, even with me in it.

Thank you. With hinges under the lid, this allows the lid to extend across the top of the box. Now when the front of the lid is lifted to post mail, the back edge of the lid goes down. The back edge of the lid travels past the pivot point of the flag arm, pushing it down, raising the longer flag end. It stays up due to friction created by penny washes and spring washers along the pivot bolt. Lose enough to lift up, but stiff enough not to drop back down. It's about 7-years old now and still going strong, though only last week, I made a new plywood lid. Despite annual repainting, moisture did get between the laminations and started splitting the lid. Marine ply was the answer, but I wasn't prepared to spend £70 for an 8' x 4' sheet of marine ply, so I'll probably need to make another lid in 7 years time!

Thanks. The leeboard is approximately 3 feet below the waterline. Yes it does lean outward, though as you know, if you allow the boat to lean when tacking, you are probably carrying too much sail and it's time to reef in. ;) I have seen sailing canoes with a leeboard on both sides, but can be more difficult to setup. A swinging leeboard allows you to setup the trim based on the sail position so that the canoe points to windward if hit by a big gust, reducing the risk of capsizing.

Ebay I think

Something at least 15% heavier than the cars you intend to tow else things could get twitchy. Luckily the Morris Minor weighs less than 750kgs. This is an important figure because technically when towing with an A-Frame the vehicle you are pulling effectively becomes a trailer, hence the need for a trailer lighting board, complete with reflective triangles. Trailers heavier than 750kgs must have brakes that operate when the brakes are applied by the driver. You enter a whole new world if you intend to tow vehicles regularly say on a professional basis that are over that 750kg threshold. I mean if you are recovering a family member who has broken down, these A-Frames are better and safer than a tow rope. I can't imagine PC Plod would have a problem with it, but if you were towing a heavy race car on race day or your family car behind your motorhome on holiday, I suspect you could get into trouble! These A-Frames are a bit of a grey area, so tread carefully.

Thanks for the reply man. Ya I’m looking at basic family cars. First time drivers 1 litre cars Basic passenger cars. What I’m thinking is getting a Ford s max ( 2 tonne towing capacity and Irish road tax is bareable ) 😂

Perhaps too powerful! Remember fellow sailors are camping in tents in sub zero temperatures, whereas I am in an insulated trailer with a nice warm heat source and my own body heat. The heat can be increased or lowered by the number of lit tee candles. No fumes are entering the trailer, but even if they did escape by accident, the fumes are not poisonous. The trailer has four air vents, one in each corner, so ventilation is adequate. No diesel or electricity required. A simple, cheap to run, elegant solution.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks. In answer to your question, not really. A few feet back perhaps, but the front wheels will start turning onto a full lock unless you put someone behind the steering wheel to hold/turn it.

Hi, Solway Dory make most of the canoe sailing parts in the UK. You can still buy the 25 sq/ft version of the lugsail Expedition Rig, but mine is the 35 sq/ft lugsail. They have changed the 35 sq/ft lugsail into a Bermuda rig, which means you can reef it easier in stronger winds. The Bermuda takes longer to setup though as the mast splits in half to pack away when not in use. Here's a link: www.solwaydory.co.uk/products/canoe-sailing-rigs/

Oh and the rig passes through a mast thwart (A wooden plank with a hole through it) and sits on a mast foot. (A square block of wood about 4 inches square that has a hole drilled half way through, the same size as the mast tube) For a sail up to 35 sq/ft, you can get away with glueing it to the floor of the canoe with G-Flex thickened epoxy, but when using bigger sails, the mast foot needs screws through the hull into the mast foot.

Sorry for the very late reply. Almost forgot I had a UA-cam account. Hope you do or did take the opportunity to make this trip, well worth it. We left the direction we travelled until the week before, so we could ensure the winds were favourable. Decided to leave the outriggers at home due to extra weight when portaging everything around the locks. With my 35ft lug sail and my paddle sail, the risk of capsizing was minimal. If I would every do it again, I would take a better trolley as it struggled over the rocks and with the weight of everything. There are also merits to taking a someone along (Two to a canoe) because the portaging is the hardest part. Drysuit recommended as the water temperature is very cold and cold water shock is a real threat. This then limits the trip to Spring or Autumn because wearing a drysuit during the summer months won't be much fun either. Luckily none of us fell in, but it was a worry.

Good question or shood be insured?

If the car being towed has a kerb weight of less than 750kg, like our Morris Minor and is fitted with a number plate/ lighting board, it is considered to be a trailer and does not need to be insured. This is because trailers under 750kg do not need to be braked. If the car being towed is over 750kg then it must either be fitted with brakes (Motorhomes tend to tow cars and there is a mechanical link to the car hand brake, which activates when the motorhome brakes) to be classed as a trailer, or it needs to be a road legal car, with insurance and an MOT. It also needs a number plate/ lighting board.

"It's broken down officer" lol

www.gov.uk/government/publications/a-frames-and-dollies/a-frames-and-dollies