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Removing girdling roots is always beneficial for the tree. I would be wary of removing too many surface roots, though, in case you undermine the structural integrity of a tree. Too many large roots removed, and it could topple over in a storm along with causing stress to the tree. Being a tree person, I would recommend mulching to benefit the tree and reduce struggling to get grass to grow, but if you are all about the bermuda grass, it might make more sense to just remove the tree.

It is hard to tell without seeing the trees. Some roots can be pruned in some scenarios, but it is hard to determine without seeing the landscape. It's always a good idea to have a certified arborist come out and do an assessment. Boots on the ground can give you a better idea of what is possible. Hope that helps!

@@SavesTrees Thanks.

Sounds like you are not removing a whole lot of root tissue but the 3" one is probably anchoring the tree some. From the description, you should be fine, but refrain from using the paint as it can trap moisture and cause the roots to rot. The tree will be able to seal off those wounds on its own. As always, it is tough to say from a comment on the internet so always try to get an arborist out to take a look at the tree and site beforehand because they might see something else to note like overall condition of the tree and risk assessment, but if the sidewalk is going in regardless just try to remove as little roots as possible.

Tough to say. Most lilacs can bounce back from a few bad years of defoliation. You can scrape the bark on some of the bare branches to see if there is green underneath still. Otherwise, you will probably have to wait until spring to see if it has enough stored energy to try again next year.

If they are far enough away from the tree that should be fine. I would say if they are at least past the drip line of the tree (more if you can) so that you are not compromising the stability of the tree it should recover just fine as a young tree. You will probably have to continue to cut them annually though as it will continue to produce roots moving into available soil.

A lot of lilacs are having a rough season this year. With cool temps and a lot of moisture, blight has caused the leaves to brown. Most should be able to bounce back next year if the damage is not too extensive.

Ants can have a symbiotic relationship with aphids. Aphids will suck plant juices from the tree and excrete a sugary honeydew that the ants will collect and eat so they can sometimes even "farm" aphids by protecting them from predators. In low populations, neither of these are detrimental to the tree.

Most tree companies can't even reach the tops of large trees with sprays anymore. In most cases, this is totally fine as we are trying to mitigate the damage done by these pests and getting a good portion of the canopy to be unharmed can reduce the impact and stress to the tree. There are also shorter-lived systemic options that can be applied after flowering to protect the whole tree without impacting pollinators.

@@SavesTrees I had Japanese beetle on that tree and on my white birch...is there anything I can feed the tree to keep them away...?

Those could most likely just be harvesting sap from a wound somewhere on the tree. Ants are always on the hunt for food sources and highly sugary substances like tree sap are a good food source. If there is no noticeable decay, that would be my guess.

You could try cutting the sprouts near the base and applying rooting hormone to get them to grow their own roots. Otherwise, you would need to sever the root to replant which could harm the larger tree it is sprouting from.

Would it kill or affect the bigger tree?

Do you have an email?

@@W.Vanderbilt just cutting the sprouts shouldn't harm the main tree, severing the larger roots would stress out the larger tree. If you are in the MN area you could have a consulting arborist come take a look through our website, or contact an ISA certified arborist in your area to inspect the roots and sprouts.

I have a similar issue, and it's infested with ants. curious what you end up doing.

Are you talking about surface roots or suckers like little trees sprouting up? Surface roots should be fine and get covered by the hostas and you can prune suckers back to the ground but be sure to do it when there is no risk of oak wilt spreading. This can vary by region so make sure to consult your local extension agency if you are unsure.

I would assume that the tip dieback is related to the flooding. Once those branches are dead they won't sprout new leaves again. You can check to see if the branch is truly dead by scraping some of the bark off of the dead areas. If there is still green underneath it could come back, but if it is brown and brittle then you can prune back to healthy tissue.

Tough to say without seeing it but the tree will continue to seal off the wound as it compartmentalizes. I would be wary of wrapping it in plastic as that could retain humidity and moisture in the cavity, but I did notice you mentioned ventilation. Fungi need the right amount of moisture to grow so if there is standing water it could not survive, but as it drains or evaporates the remaining moisture is probably making it an ideal environment. Filling it with anything would just keep that environment constant as well. Most guidelines these days say to leave tree wounds alone and let the tree seal it off. You can look up the 4 walls of CODIT to better understand how trees seal and prevent decay from spreading. My advice would be to have a local ISA arborist come out and take a look and see if there is any additional pruning you could do to increase airflow and prevent water from pooling. It might be severe but could allow the tree to bounce back in a few years. The other option is to look into grafting one of the remaining branches to start a new tree or replace it unfortunately.

@@SavesTrees Thanks, good to know it will continue to heal. Ventilation was a primary consideration, initially after removing the rot had planned to let it fully air out and dry over the summer (will still do this), then fill it with epoxy, but further thinking led to realization that the tree would continue to grow and would thus dislodge the plug eventually leaving gaps which would defeat the purpose entirely. Might end up with a sort of cap or sheet tied to the tree to deflect water and see if the tree grows out the hollow on its own after some time. Will have a look at the ISA option, don't think any of the local companies that do such work are certified unfortunately, that might actually explain why none of them were able to give advice beyond "do you want this tree removed?" No, looking to save the tree, a chainsaw is a very easy DIY option and IMO one that should not be taken unless there's no other choice.

@@zhenlan07 If you go to treesaregood.org they have a directory where you can search for certified arborists in your area. Not sure how up-to-date they keep it, but is a good tool to refine your search!

We generally recommend leaving the wound to seal on its own. Large gouges can take some time to completely seal over. Keep the tree watered and keep an eye on it, but other than that, the tree will handle the rest!

All trees will absorb at different rates based on their makeup, growth rate, location, and site conditions. We based our numbers on averages taken from our local DNR for a mature ash tree in our area. Depending on the species and location trees could definitely absorb anywhere from the 48 lbs of CO2 and up! Every bit helps though!

I am not sure with bark specifically, but for other practices, you can use a weight like a book or something else to keep the bark straight as it dries.

Thank you so much Kent for your feedback. Thing is, I manage to decoil it by soaking it in water.I even go as far as managing to weave it nice & flat. But as time goes on it dries again & starts recoiling. I'm searching all possible ways & even go as far as reading published academic research papers for even the nearest idea on how to keep this bark moist - but to no avail.

Generally, ants aren't a huge concern when it comes to tree health. They could be gathering resin or dew from the tree but most likely not harming it. I would hold off on any additional sprays unless you are noticing symptoms on your tree.

@@SavesTrees Thank you and much appreciated!

I would guess it is too late this year. At most there is generally a two-week window once it blooms that you can prune without removing next year's buds. In most areas of the country, buds are already forming for next year.

@SavesTrees looks like only leafs on mine. No buds yet in ky

Most people end up mowing them when they pop up in their grass. You will most likely have to hand pick/prune if they are in a garden bed since any herbicide could negatively affect the main tree.

Glad it's doing well!

@@SavesTrees I’m curious as to what is left of the basket and burlap after 10 years in the ground. I’m not saying you’re necessarily wrong, I was just following recommendations as I didn’t know much about it back then as it was my first house and one of the first trees I planted. Either way, the one thing I made sure of was to plant it high, and that probably has more to do with how well it’s done.

Patrick is one of our Arborologists for our B2B business. You could try reaching out to our tech support line at info@rainbowecoscience.com to see if they have any recommendations for you!

Not sure how cold it can get there but could be frost cracks? As far as treatment, burlap should be good to prevent any more damage. Otherwise, the tree will compartmentalize. Water and fert so the tree has everything it needs to seal.

That is a tough situation. Municipals will do this a lot when replacing sidewalks or roads. There are obviously circumstances where you need to cut them. I would recommend having an arborist come out to take a look at your tree specifically and they can give you recommendations on how to minimize the damage. There are ways to mitigate some stress to the tree but they will also consider the structural integrity of removing some of those roots. They will continue to grow back into the space most likely as well so they might recommend removal. General rule of thumb these days is remove no more than 15-25% of healthy roots. That number varies with older or newer trees and it is recommended to do it a certain distance from the trunk. Usually 3-5 times the diameter of the trunk.

We generally don't recommend cutting trees at the top. Arborvitae will not sprout new growth if pruned too heavily, but they would most likely send out multiple new shoots instead of having the one main stem that they have now. If you are worried about them falling over you can have a TRAQ-certified arborist come take a look at them. They are certified to take multiple things into account to analyze the potential for risk. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much for the helpful information and taking the time to respond.

We do not have a lot of experience with palms, unfortunately, so I cannot say how they would react to those practices.

It may keep out some, but carpenter ants could still find a way in, and filling in cavities has been found to create more problems when it comes to decay and retaining moisture.

Thank you for video. Is there any situation where filling cavities would be beneficial ? Are there any published data on cavity filling ? Both Bartlett tree snd the CDC recommend cavity filling in certain situations

They should eventually decay. There most likely won't be enough stored nutrients for them to re-sprout depending on how much was left, but stump grinding usually does the trick!

@@SavesTrees Thank you! Since it was easy to do I went ahead and drilled a few holes on the visible roots and placed epsom salt just in case. I figured why not lol. I topped it off with top soil.

If it was easy enough, can't hurt! @@arielrodriguez6980

If they were cultivars, they would most likely not re-sprout as the same tree assuming the growth is coming from below the graft. Structurally it is probably best to just start over with a new tree as well since the sprout will end up competing with the dead material and growing around it resulting in not a structurally sound main stem.

@@SavesTrees thanks 🙏🏼

The suckers are sprouting up since there are leftover resources in the roots. Since all of the top growth was removed the tree is responding with suckers in an attempt to continue to create more food. Eventually, the roots and stump will run out of resources, but if it continues to get water, and the leaves on the suckers aren't removed, it can continue to sprout. I am not sure how long this can go on for, but eventually, it will run out of resources.

@@SavesTrees Thank you for the response

You can put a piece of plastic over the stump

This is a common issue with boulevard trees. Just make sure to water the tree and make sure it is getting all the nutrients it needs and the tree should recover fine. Depending on how many roots are removed it should remain stable. Contacting a local arborist can help devise a plan to manage it as well!