Відео

I think there is a misunderstanding here, the n20 engine is different than the previous engines. Those are the actual Solenoid Actuators. You are probably refering to the "Oil Control Valve", which is the actual VANOS bolt. If you are replacing the solenoid, then it's a simple swap by removing two screws and the electrical connector. They are sealed and there is no adjustment. If you are replacing the valve, then the cover has to come off, and the cams locked down. This video Includes the removal of the Oil Control Valves: ua-cam.com/video/H51VLU9Myt4/v-deo.html Solenoid Actuator: parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-solenoid-actuator-11367593719 Oil Control Valve: parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-engine-variable-valve-timing-vvt-oil-control-valve-11367583820?srsltid=AfmBOooG9eH9mXwSKRGdndkLPsm-kzUBpI9yMAmI8VqihwNkc3RVCp5Z

Thank you. Yes, there is some editing, making the videos makes the job far more time consuming, specially since I do this without any help and I have several videos that I have not edited yet. Sometimes using parts of videos from other jobs save me time, sometimes the videos don't come out right and I have to replace them or redo them. You can just focus on the specifics, on the crankshaft lock, yes, the oil pan is installed but just focus on the installation of the tool. Same for the other things. For your main question, once you lock the crankshaft, the chain is not going to pull the the sprockets. I too have a 1/2" Impact @ 120 ft/lb, a 3/4" and it does incredible things. For the most part I use BMW TIS to make the videos so with some exceptions, the order of the procedures is based on TIS. I don't see why not try using the 3/4" impact wrench, it should easily do the job, I did not use mine because BMW clearly states not to use 1/2". if you do this with a breaker bar you should be able to realize (feel) that without any doubts, 1/2" will not hold.

@@goroundfun6034 Thanks for the quick reply. I agree with the making videos issue. My wife keeps telling me to make videos, but she won't help and I just can't spend so much more time to get the job done. So I do appreciate those like you that spend the time for a quality video. I'll probably try the 3/4" breaker bar first, then the impact if it is too difficult. I'm only concerned about the impact "banging" the flywheel teeth. I will also probably remove the Hub & sprocket as one unit when I take out the Crank bolt. I believe the Crank seal can be replaced without the tool if the sprocket is removed.

The breaker bar needs to be long or extended, I add a jack handle, specially when you tighten the bolt. I think the impact banging would not be an issue, the tool holds the flywheel very well without any damage to the teeth but I understand your concern and It is up to you. You can remove the vibration damper whith the hub, but you do want them separated for installation. It will be easier to install the hub which goes into the gear first and then the pump and you need to move the hub a little bit vertically and sideways. For this reason, you dont want to install the seal first and you will need the tool to install it. You can remove the seal without the tool after removing the hub, but you must be very carefull not scratch the metal, you can create a groove for and oil leak. BMW TIS clearly has a warning about this.

I don't understand your question, what covers? those are not covers, they are the actual solenoids.

TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb.) | TRQ21101

No, it was leaking coolant from the inlet line.

It is a vent line, be careful with that, it is plastic and it can break.

For that you need to remove the valve cover, otherwise you run the risk of getting an oil leak.

You can not replace the lines without removing the turbo. The leaks are normally not from the o-rings, they are from the rubber part of the lines, which over time crack and start leaking.

www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-dual-head-ratchet-67993.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-flexible-ratchet-96369.html You still need a short socket and you should be able to get a small torque wrench in there. If you can't fit the torque wrench, add a swivel.

​@@goroundfun6034 Thank you so much. That did it! This was exactly what I needed.

You don't need to remove the mount to remove the CAT. In the video, the mount has been removed mainly to show it better. That is why the instructions don't say to remove it. Now, that being said, if you don't have a helper and you have the right tools, it takes 5 minutes to remove the mount and it gives you a lot more space to work on the clamp. Re-installing the clamp the right way sometimes is a pain, so extra space helps very much. To answer your question, if you need to remove the mount you must hold the engine.

@@goroundfun6034 Ok cool! That's what I'm going to do. I'm waiting on an engine support bar and already got pretty much all the bolts cracked loose but I'll definitely remove that motor mount control arm it makes sense to make the job easier. Thanks

@@goroundfun6034 Yeah I have the right tools. 4) E12 and a 17mm on the top of motor mount. That should be all I need to remove control arm and top 17mm nut.

the 2 t20 are the same size. Make sure that the T20 on top is the most forward screw and the one on the bottom is the most rearward. if you put the T30 screws where the T20s are supposed to go, then most likely the holes have been enlarged and you might have to fill them with epoxy.

131908 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: Position not reached. i got that no clue wtf it could be

@@BryanMartinez-b3r yours specifically states vanos, my best bet would be the vanoss gear maybe stuck, easy way to check is take rocket cover off, turn over the engine by hand and you will see it seize up if that is the issue, if not check all the other components of the vanoss system like the solenoids and stuff see if they sticking and allowing oil through

Just did it and it was really ass. Thanks for the video tho

The same turbo. It is in good condition.

how did you get out the engine bracket and that mount right under the cat there? i’m stuck on that right now don’t have enough space to slide them out and i don’t have an engine lift either

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KBKB9S2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those codes are related to low oil pressure in the Vanos system. First thing is to check the engine oil level. Check your timing, if it is fine, then you have a problem with the Vanos.

Is it the same for xdrive? I am literally about to start this project with close to no experience just UA-cam videos. It's a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive. Any advice?

@@hamburger6133yes bro you don’t need to lift the engine at all or remove the mount

@@steeezdashoota8569no

Thank you!

@@goroundfun6034your oil return feed line does not have a check valve. You might want to replace that

@@Sequel7 it has it. The line in the video was not the one the was actually installed.

I use a high pressure washer.

i did that my code went off for 2 weeks but now it popped back again

Check engine light with the code that tells you so.

@@goroundfun6034 Thank you Sir

⁠@@goroundfun6034may i know what code?

Thank you.

I comes as a set with the screws for the waste gate. Part number is 11 65 8612575. You can get it at the dealer. www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fastening-set/11658612575/