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Bad bottom build. Tolerances were blown out the gate. Good call trusting your gut! 🇺🇸🏁🏴‍☠️

First off, are you sure that cam profile is for ROAD COURSE? The duration on that lobe sounds like some drag stuff. The C6Z is a known thing, and although you might be a good mechanic i would have just taken the engine out and sent it to the dudes that have been building these cars for the last ten years or more successfully. That engine is a KNOWN THING in motorsports. 10k aint bad when you are hammering on that engine season after season. I am sorry to hear this, and this is just my two cents worthless advice after the fact.

New here.. but damnit man.. that's awful... I daily a 68 Dart.. I live car's etc.. Have always wanted a Vette... Someday a C5 big wish would be the C6.. Cheers from Southern California 🇺🇸..

Love it !!!!

Did you seat the thrust bearing after you set the crank??? Damn that sucks man, sorry for your issues, hopefully u get her figured out soon

Is that the LEVEL 7 c10 back there that i see???

This sucks bro. I'm sorry you gotta deal with this. On the brite side, the car is absolutely INSANE. You'll get it sorted hopefully without costing you a small fortune. This is the first vid of yours I've seen, hoping you'll keep us updated? Where are you located?

Man thats heartbreaking, ive been watching your stuff for a while.

I'm an old motorcycle mechanic and I understand completely what your going through! Hundreds of details! Hang in there! New sub for sure!

I’ve heard at least three things that could contribute to the problems none more than not replacing all the dry sump parts, it’s not just a money grab there’s a reason it’s replaced when this is done under warranty in these cars you will never clean those out completely

Wow that’s an epicly terrible way to deal with the fuel system

metal in oil in a new engine is not uncommon , thats alot of metal , and low oil pressure , i would look at the oil pump , and pickup , did the seal on the pickup and the pump get damaged or forgotten ??? double check all the clearances and the cam bearings , did the machine shop clean the block and crank correctly did they leave metal in oil galleys ?, and check the main bearings , are the oil holes in correct position , and are they correct bearings ? seen instances were bearings are not correct and blocking oil holes in crank ?? was engine machined correctly ? line honed ? block bored with correct fixture , to keep block square , be picky about your machine shop not all are created equal , there are machine shops and then there are good machine shops , if all else fails , change machine shops , second opinion ?? or buy a drop in crate engine . im betting that its a oil starvation issue , pump bad or not picking up the oil or oil pressure bleeding off somehow .

Damn that really sucks! I’m sorry to hear this. Get it sorted out and don’t go crazy with the build. My buddy and I were out this past weekend we both have boosted cars but nothing crazy around 600/700 to the wheels. We were thinking about upping the power but both said you know what I’m good where we are. Pump gas, beat the shit out of it and mostly stock drivetrain parts and doesn’t break.

Nice video, wanting to run the on3 kit for my 5.7.

I'm really sorry this happened, if you don't mind, who built the short block?

I can relate. I am also in the middle of doing the same thing after my #3 and #4 mains got wiped out with F.M. Definately debri from machining. Very few true pros out there are left. Bottom line no one is going to put the care and effort like yourself. I also had the same experience with a local machine shop.I agree with the paint thinner or mineral spirits. I also pressurise a one of those a/c flush can that comes with a hose and I hit all the passages with 90 psi of fluid pressure. It works. Good luck.. Awesome vid.....

I would change the oil cooler just in case too

Tough situation bud. I commend you on your understanding and level head during the process. I believe you and the shop came to a very fair agreement. Personally, I've used the same shop for 25 years. From day 1 I've disassembled and rechecked all their work. Not that they gave me cause to, but that I needed to know I was sending out something that I know is good to go. We're human and we make mistakes. If somehow we can lesson the chance of a mistake or catching it before it becomes costly....then I try to do it. It's worked for me for 25 years and I'll keep doing it till this industry is done with me. Maybe something to consider, I use lacquer thinner to flush all oil galleries, lines, tanks, and coolers. It breaks down any stuck oily garbage and really cleans. I fill a 5 gallon bucket and and submerge an old fuel pump with a hose. After hot tank and a parts washer at the machine shop, I hand wash with Tide and pressure wash to rinse. Then the lacquer thinner and I still get dirty runout after all that. Anyway....good luck to you. I'll subscribe.

Boomer here just to see your beautiful face.

No track in your area?

LS7’s suck anyways.

Man I hate that happened. A lot of time and work involved. Much more when tight fit for everything. Install and then taking it back out. Seems this is a machining problem more than likely. I will stay tuned to see the prognosis. Good luck and hang in there.

How did you check endplay with the crank installed in the engine with the complete rotating assembly, clutch, drive line, trans etc still installed???? Who installed the oil pump, did you pre-lube it, did you shim it? Did you prime the engine before you started it, and BIG FYI NEVER NEVER EVER let a brand new engine Idle, especially on initial start up with the incorrect Tune, your just begging for problems.. more questions than answers, im pretty sure this will end in installer error, .assuming .010 thrust is correct (which i highly doubt) unless is ate the main saddle, or into the rod sides, shouldn’t really be an issue with an LS engine.

good, love to see it enjoy wasting your time on that POS of a go-cart

another setback but it could be worse (dropping a valve). what are the specs on your build?

I don't know how i landed here, but it sounds like your def not having fun, and this is a constant money and time pit. Save your sanity, just throw in a stock 5.3 with a cam and springs with a power adder and enjoy it. They will destroy 85% of cars at the track anyhow.

Sorry guy. This engine is not oiling. Those bearings and even the oil pump look bad. Maybe one of the 2 front press in galley plugs is missing, or the barbell is in backwards. Lucky you caught it before it ate everything.

So you mentioned the lifters were stored in oil i think you said, so they were used from the previous build correct? Was the parts for the dry sump pump also used? Was the crank end play what caused the bearings to fail? If you got there ultimately what do you think the deciding factor was in the failure after 7 minutes?

Hey mate. I’m looking at buying a kit, does it still use the stock ecu ?

What up Mikey!!!!

Holy janky productions! Get ‘er right Doctor!

The more you know! Thanks for the awesome information.

Shoot my goal was $1000 budget just some long tubes now I’m 30k into the truck parts and labor 🫠

Makes me wanna turbo my rt 😂 this things badass brother 🔥

Do you think the 5 speed gen 3 would hold up better then the 8 speed with a setup like this

Hi, I like your content. Do you accept sponsored products?

How much horses you think were pushing on 12psi? I have tapped performance double pump, frp forged internals and Fic 1000cc’s sitting at home right now just need to buy the t6 86 kit, and I’m trying to do more research before I jump on it. My plan is a 700-750 reliable daily and want to know about how much psi would get me there. Also have a frp tomahawk cam 8spd 4K stall

Do you recommend turbo over whipple? I've got a 2012 5.7 hemi 1500 with comp cam stage 1 and hellcat lifters and looking into rebuilding small block since it is burning oil but I want to take the chance to drop a whipple. Do you do installs?

Wow found that early! My 2012 had 3 lobes where the cam was giving the goal posts arm signals lol

need it for cars 🙏🏾

Thanks for the bank breaking research brotha! We all needed this full send dude. Awesome content😎

Nice video. I can't wait to order my turbo kit for my 2012 ram 1500 hemi 2wd single cab. I will still used my 6.4 intake manifold, I will make pipe will work

Are you using HP tuners? I’ve had mine on 6psi and daily driving it for about 6 months. I want to turn it up a bit.

What kind of headlight are on the truck ?

are these the oilless turbos? i want to single turbo my chally but the only kit they offer is the oilless one. definitely hesitant about them

Great overview! How come you ditched the 6.4 manifold?

You said 4K$ kit but when I option mine out it comes closer to 6500 what options did you pick?

I have a 2009 ram with procharger and im on my 7th transmission, what transmission can be swapped to hold 1,000 hp

Very nice! I am slightly disappointed you aren't doing a Forged 5.7, Turbo's don't need displacement, I feel that a 5.7 would rev better and would be cheaper to build, Hellcat/6.1 crank and drop in, 5.7's are tough!

Please video the whole BGE build. Love this build