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It's not something I've tried no, but now it's on the list to have a play with!

Thanks! Hope you slept well 🤣

I'd suggest lots of different sized sand, and bits of rubble for something as big as a joytoy 40k figure. Glue on a few bigger bits with superglue, then when you do sand, sprinkle largest pieces first very sparsely so there's lots of big gaps, then go a size down and fill in some of the gaps and then with smallest sand fill in the rest of it. Should look a bit more realistic for a large scale figure, and avoids the occasional problem of mixing up sand types, that you just get an unintentional scoop of one type of sand .

@nofixedcourse appreciate the steer. Many thx👊

Glad it's helped! Hope you enjoy painting them

Yeah it breaks up the surface tension. You can also pop some isopropyl alcohol over before you apply the top layer of PVA, that works really well but obviously not as accessible for a beginner or someone younger.

Drill a hole when you're done painting the base if you're going to pin the figure, or glue the unpainted figure to the base before you start basing. There are multiple ways to go about it. Some small, light plastic figures can just be superglued straight onto a base like this with no issues.

Interesting, I think you'd probably want to start with something like ushabti bone or even screaming skull and then work up from that to just slightly off white. White sand looks warm in tone still so you'd want to keep away from anything with too much blue or green in it because that will cool it down too much and it'll start to look more like ice or snow.

I picked up some UV resin this weekend which I've been playing around with ironically, definitely a future video as an alternative to this, but I like having stuff like this so that someone younger getting into the hobby can just go into Hobbycraft and get what they need without parents worrying about them using toxic resins. Or someone allergic to resin for example might need something like this.

@@nofixedcourse make sense in that regard.

Good luck! I'm sure it'll be fine, there's plenty of references around for green marble. It's usually a cold green so that's worth remembering.

@@nofixedcourse I was planning on replacing your administratum grey with Vallejo Dark Green (keeping the white the same), and maybe doing a glaze of polished gold (either in the vein or all over) to give it the sparkle of mica that real granite has. I guess I'm making white granite instead of marble. Thank you for the excellent videos, I've learned a lot.

I think if you put the rocks and some gravel on part of the base before you do anything (a small section or something, just to suggest the edge of a frozen lake or pool) and then paint the blue over everything as I show in the video, that way you should still be able to see some of the smaller pieces but the colour will suggest that they're deeper underwater, then any of the larger rocks that stick out once you've added the varnish or resin (you may want it a little thicker to cover the sand or gravel so a UV resin might do the job better) can be painted in a neutral grey as you've suggested (also depends on the colour of the model going on the base, if there's a lot of red on the model, adding a touch of green to the rocks with a wash or by mixing green into the grey before you highlight, will go well. Hope that helps, it's difficult to describe what I'm thinking though 🤣

@@nofixedcourse Thank you so much, I will definetly be trying that!

I'd hazard a guess at enamel paint, that was the go-to for lead figures many years ago and can be extraordinarily tough in some cases.

Then help me understand so I can make something suitable for beginners. which bit of this would you say is too advanced?

For a base it really doesn't matter. Priming is just a method to make paint stick better, and as paint will stick well to the textured surface of a base it's all good. sometimes I don't even prime plastic miniatures if they're prepped correctly (that one is more painter dependant, some like it, some don't).

I do have 'some' footage of painting the ghoul skin, the whole thing was meant to be a 'how difficult is it to paint like Craftworld studio' exercise and video, but I've had so many technical issues with the camera, the set up and then getting really ill, that it's not the best footage in the world. But you are correct, there's a transition from red through purple into blue going top to bottom.

The long form video that's linked to this one explains it in greater detail (should literally be a link straight to it at the bottom of the screen when you watch this short), but essentially I take a photo of the model when it's primed black, this gives me a guide of where at least the main highlights will look best, and the layers are blended with 50/50 glaze mixes of each tone, but the longer video goes into far better detail than I can put here.

Ok, what's too hard? The painting or the basing itself? There are ways to simplify everything if needed while you're learning. As for gluing a figure to it, just super glue will do the trick (pinning helps especially if it's a metal figure) , or glue the figure to the base first with plastic glue, then follow all the steps here to finish the base before you paint the figure.

Enjoying the lore is a legitimate part of the hobby, so do what interests you. But think of it like this, we all screw up the painting to start with. Being bad at something is the first step towards being good at something.

The short is linked to the main video about it, all the paints should be listed right at the very start of the main video. Basically you want 3 to 4 colours that increase in brightness but keep a similar tone, so the ones I used if I recall, all have a blue tone, but you can use most colours and because the majority is still black, the whole thing still reads as black.

Yeah I was browsing eBay last night to see if there's any cheap imperialis minis on there, but I still need to finish this thunderhawk!

@@nofixedcourse well I am following your journey my man! Thank you for the content! Aside, as an avid ebayer, I wish you luck and may the best man win

As in 'inside' the sewer, so lots of gunk, crud, curved walls etc?

It honestly can be really relaxing. And yeah it can be an expensive hobby, but there are ways to make it cheaper, especially if just the enjoyment of the painting is the goal. Paints are arguably the biggest investment because you want decent quality and it's not something thats worth getting 2nd hand unless you know someone selling off a collection. Miniatures themselves are the easy bit surprisingly, gw do a free mini each month in stores, and things like starter magazines such as combat patrol are a cheap way of getting models, at least until you figure out what you want to paint.

@@nofixedcourseare the paints that come with the starter kits any good? I was thinking about getting the space marine kit that comes with some paints and 3 minis

@Cheddar_96 yeah the citadel paints with the starter kit are fine, with any paint range there will be some that are better than others, which is really irritating 🤣 you just have to try different paints whenever the chance arises. The starter set is fine for you to get some practice and see how you like it.

@@nofixedcourse ok cool. Yeah I figured the starter set would be good since it has 3 miniatures in it. That gives me 3 to paint for practice lol. Thanks.

It would be very much the same doing it on a larger surface I guess, just use bigger brushes for some of it to cover areas a bit more efficiently, and maybe use some glaze medium just so it's a bit less labour intensive over such a large model. Other than that, look at lots of reference of marble and have fun! Thanks for watching, glad it's been useful

@@nofixedcourse thank you!!

Thanks! The brush is just one that came free with a model years ago, so cheap there's no branding of any kind on it. If you want decent but not too expensive brushes, revell do a series called 'painta luxus' which I use frequently. You can get them from Hobbycraft if you're in the UK, and advisable to actually pick them out in person so you get a good one, but when you do, they last for a long time and keep a good point. I'm looking at a company called 'orange' as well that have started making brushes for not huge amounts of money, but as I've not tried them yet I can't say if they're any good

Thanks! Really appreciate the comment, considering the forgeworld imperial armour books are some of my favourites. For a bigger Diorama or something I probably would use airbrush and oils, as it is easier once you know what you're doing.

Thanks! Probably about time I did another one, work has got in the way lately though

You're more than welcome! Glad its going to be of use to you

I did that for a Silver Tower commission many moons ago, took a high res photo of the board (a feat all on its own to get it straight down and now warped in any way) had it printed out on decent paper at actual size, then added it to all of the bases, soaked them in varnish to harden everything and then pinned the models on. it works really well for board game minis or dungeon crawlers.

Well, regardless, thank you for watching. I think the biggest issue I have is the time needed to create something that goes all the way through the process, colour and everything. But as this is an older video and I have a better understanding of creating videos, maybe now is the time to do it properly!

Awesome! thanks for watching. that varnish is also good for gap filling smaller gaps if you paint in sub assemblies before you put stuff together. takes a couple of coats, but once its dry you can just run a little bit of colour over the top and the gap will be like it was never there!

@@nofixedcourse I’ll keep that in mind. Also, I noticed the other threads, so I’ll let you know if I have and difficulties 👍

So I did the bases. I found difficulty making the cracks in the ice noticeable. They’re basically invisible. Other than that, they look good

@@bravecolor1126 little bit of thinned slightly off white paint or ink in the cracks might work well as a fix for that. I suspect I potentially went deeper or wider than it initially looks on the video so they show up more.

It was a while ago but I believe so yes, but the key is the glazes of Caliban green, they stop it looking chalky (gauss blaster green has a lot of white in it so it has a tendency to look chalky if you use too much or if you don't anticipate what's going to happen and combat it with glazes)

Working out the volumes on videos is by far the most annoying part of the creation, it doesn't seem to be a consistently easy thing to manage. I'll make a note for the next one though, any improvement is good improvement. Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks! Appreciate you watching them. Uv resin is something I've not really dived into yet, but I think soon will be time to do so, because I spotted some uv putty the other day, which I've got some ideas for using in display basing.