@@chadhulstein5661 I appreciate the insight and experience you’ve conveyed. I hate that it didn’t work out for your application. I’m looking into other turbo options.
You have a six cylinder engine so you might be ok doing a turbo. Flat top pistons are a must . Like I said in the video a lot depends on how you use it. I know of several people that have this setup and it works great, short bursts of power it works well, I like to plow with mine and it was awful. Next would be pressure, 5 lbs max . Good luck.
15 lbs should double the hp, 25lbs is roughly just short of 3x original hp.. it's obvious stock parts won't work. I'm wondering what has become of the turbo kit manufacturer 7 yrs later..
If you watched the entire video you’d know I tried all that stuff, also e85 isn’t available by bulk delivery on the farm at the time of this video, and I hate e-85. I have pop up pistons which creates hot spots therefore pre ignition. The engine should be built around the turbo which it’s not, ( flat top pistons) the part that ticked me off was Keystone advertised “ bolt on kit” with no modifications for any stock tractor of this era .. that’s not the case and lead me to making a video to warn others that this kit isn’t for the average enthusiast like the vendor claims.
Thank you!!! It certainly was.. I could make one work if I built the engine around the turbo… but in stock fashion and what I use it for it was a shit show
Nice video. I'm cracking up about your comment about how this thing should be able to part the red sea according to the company that sold it!! I guess we learn as much in Life from things that are not successful as those that are.
Stinks it didn't work. How much fuel was it using? My old gas 560 was about 65 hp plowing it used a gallon in about 12 min. Didn't think that was to bad considering the work it was doing. Doing light work a gallon coul last about 40 min. More horsepower = more fuel. Great video nice tractor I'm glad it's back to stock.
I had a bad experience with a kit like that. I put a kit on my farmall 350 and after a few months the turbo started giving me trouble. I called them up and they told me to ship it back and they’ll take a look at it. Well they called me back and said there is absolutely nothing wrong with the turbo and it was probably something on my tractor. Bullshit. Luckily it didn’t ruin my tractor and I have it back to stock and it runs great. I’m still pissed of that I have over $1650 invested in a stupid turbo kit that was extremely overrated and besides $1650 would have bought me another tractor or a ton of aftermarket parts for it. Ps I’m pretty sure I found the exact turbo that they put on their M-450 kits on Amazon for under $200. Seems a little shady
Have you looked into getting a hotter set of sparkplugs? I've had to do that on turbo charged audi engines, at boost you can have weak spark and an incomplete burn with stock plugs. Thanks for the video, was thinking about running one on my 54 r110 with an sd240.
Yea, I tried that as well : bottom line is you need a flat top piston for this application: mine were step up so I’m sure we had a hot spot resulting in pre- ignition. I made this video to save others lots of headaches😇
Need to check air-fuel ratio, back off total ignition timing while on the dyno. Probably starts hard cold because of the long run from carb, through turbo to manifold into engine. If you are using all the extra power from the turbo add on, it will use the amount of fuel for the horsepower used. If you are running domed pistons, you severely limit amount of boost you can use. With stock compression, 10 psi boost should be absolute max. More hp comes from higher cylinder pressures, and the fuel must be capable of working under those pressures. Sounds like you weren't given all the info you needed to make it work. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Lessons learned for sure; my whole point of the video was to share that it’s not a bolt on and go project like the old blow bags advertising , knowing what I know I could make it work but I was tired of pumping money into it and the extra power was taking it’s toll on the rest of the tractor as well
back your timing down I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado with a turbo back your timing down turn your boost back to 10 pounds you need to put air fuel mixture gauge on it
Do you really think I didn’t try that ?? 2 year span from video 1 to part 2 . The point of this video was to blow their bolt on and go advertising to pieces, several things a guy could do to make it work from a ground up build . The 4 cylinder intake system on IH gas tractors is very insufficient on 2 cylinders because they both pull from the same runner resulting in hot spots on these pistons for starters . AGAIN for what I use my tractor for this didn’t work and please, comparing my 57 farmall to your Chevy ....... well not even close to the same animal.
Terribly sorry for your troubles, however having had experience in high performance engines. Not anything I know is a straight bolt on. When one bolts on an Artificial aspirated pump, be it a blower or Turbo most commonly you have to check the Static pressure of the cylinder with the bare engine. So the rule of thumb is lets say @ 1700 RPM without the ignition running you check the pressure. And its at 180psi then you adjust your static with the Turbo Boost ( Determined Boost) at the same RPM no ignition and try to closely match turbo pressure with bare engine static pressure. This means that you will be able to determine how much you have to lower the Ratio of the pistons. At higher RPM with any engine that is when the engine is " LEAST" efficient, thats right least ! It is at higher RPM that engines leak mosts. There are many other factors to consider, but thats just the very very beginning what one needs to do. Normally when you have 10.0:1 compression pistons depending on boosts I would install 7.0:1 pistons to prevent "Pinging: a the beginning of the Turbo Boost.
I understand and you proved my point; this kit is being advertised as a bolt on and go with no mods , that’s why I made this video for others to see just how complex things really are versus the ad still put out today..
@@chadhulstein5661 I agree just like farming, one just does not raise cattle or plant crops. There is a theory behind it, I know nothing about farming but Im sure it is more than just text books
I missed your first video, thank for the info, me and a couple of other guys was thinking about this for Ms and super Ms... Not now.... Appreciate the heads up... to bad all the money and time you got on this didn't work.... it happens I guess....take care. We're from northwest Missouri.....
Chad Hulstein not saying you’re an idiot at all sir. I’m sorry you had so many problems and I agree the people selling the kit way over sold it. You got the basic bones in that kit, but no way would it ever run right without some luck. Turbo systems are my thing and I know how to make them work.
twinstaged : ok : we spent a few years and lots of dyno time trying all kinds of stuff and like you said the grossly over sold this set up. We threw in the towel when it came down to major modifications needing to be done to make it work. The old man at Keystone lies to us constantly
Chad Hulstein well if you know total timing under boost loaded, air temp, and air fuel ratio with a wide band you could of tuned it to run right. The pyrometer should be pre turbo, but will only give you an idea on ignition timing and for a mild setup isn’t really necessary, but it’s nice to have. Draw through carb stuff can be tricky, but without a wideband you are flying blind.
Kyle Kenan !! I was running 114 octane race fuel 🤦♂️ octane boost is not the answer here ; I give the facts in the video on what needed to happen. I messed with this kit countless hours before pulling it off
I doubt you actually have stock pistons which would have a low 6.6:1 compression ratio. IH quit selling stock pistons for those older Farmalls probably back in the 1960s. For instance, the stock kit for an M was discontinued in 1960 per our books at the CaseIH dealer I once worked at. The mechanics there all thought the M came standard with 4" pistons, not 3-7/8". This was before the internet educated so many of us. At any rate your cooling system would lack severely not only in the radiator but you would want an engine oil cooler too regardless of stock pistons or not.
SilverGleaner : yea I agree: the whole point I was making is this kit is very dishonest in their claims that no mods are required to run this kit!! I want people to know of all the BS that may come with this power adder 😊
with the cost of the kit and extra bits, youre better off buying a lp head and dflat top pistons or pop up pistons if you can. honestly i would just repower it with a small block or big block and call it good i personally would want to instal a I6 ford 300 cid
Turbo engines like a lower compression ratio. I'd bet that if you put in flat top pistons and a distillate head, it would like pump gas a lot better and still make great power
Jon Barks I agree completely, my point through this whole thing was I was told an entirely different story by the old man blow bag and I spent 3 years working with him and I was tired of it : I said in my last video you need flat top pistons for this setup to work
The 6 cylinders seem to work better than the 4 due to a different intake design . Depends on how you use it ; if your a tractor puller it works great; lots of power for a short time; if you plow like I do it doesn’t work worth a dam because it heats up. Parade tractor or dinking around on the farm say mowing hay , raking ditches and that sort of thing it would be ok. I didn’t like it because it turned a very reliable tractor into a fickle little pain in my ass !! I was always adjusting the carburetor and what not; I cold tell the extra power was hard on other stuff as well . Fitech makes a 2 barrel throttle body fuel injection kit that is also capable of controlling your timing that I would love to try on a 6 cylinder ; if you could control those 2 with the turbo setup would be the real deal 😎
I'm more of a diesel man, but in my opinion adding a turbo on these older gas engines I think the maximum boost to remain stock would be right around 2-3# max. Personally I think keystone grossly oversold their product. If your tractor pulling the higher boost may work with alot of modification, but on a daily runner using it to plow etc like you I'd be in the 2-3# area. 25# is a crazy number when stock 150 hp Diesels under load will only be roughly 15#. Allis Chalmers use to say 1# of boost was equal to roughly 10 hp. Threw the years, regardless of brand I find that to be pretty accurate, on stock engines. On a smaller gas engine I'm not sure of what 2-3# would give you but if it gave you 15 - 20 hp over stock, I think the rest of the system would be pretty safe, ie radiator, intake, head gaskets etc.
Nice sound to that awesome tractor, plowing looks “airplane runway straight” What year is your 450? I really enjoyed watching the videos about the turbo, I will not be doing a turbo kit to my newly acquired 1941 “B” but could you imagine if I did, I might break 20 HP! Thank you for the great videos.
Chad would you be interested in talking over the kit I have built 6 tractors on gas for farm work 400 case, 88 Oliver's farmall H and others the carb on your tractor was alot of the problem I use snowmobile units the fuel metering is vastly better that one is little more than a semi controlled fuel leak and secondly water alcohol injection would have solved your gas issue you could have run regular gas it would have run on it on anything less than 10 pounds of boost I have done it successfully multiple times I can build you a water injection kit that is Boost controlled that will cost you less than $15 and work flawlessly with no maintenance I would like to talk to you if you are still interested if you have given up on the I'm using the turbo that's okay but I can make it run I've done it before and I can do it on that one here is my email if you'd like to get in touch with me gene21674@Gmail.com I wish I would have found you video sooner I think I could have saved you a lot of trouble and disappointment
Good Information -- I was going to put one of the Keystone kits on my "M" with fire crater pistons... BUT old red runs so good now I just didn't want to mess it up... I agree with what you are saying about the gages and info on the boost on the Turbo... I have Turbos on my cars and never run more the 7PSI on the boost, but that is just me... I talked to my local Farmall repair folks here and this is what I am told if I want more horsepower on a stock engine... use an intake manifold from a LP gas engine to help with the horsepower... I am sure the heads are good because you just had them reworked... I am told the LP gas manifold will give a 10-15% horsepower boost, but I have no actual numbers. (Sorry) You have done some fantastic work on the 450 and now have a better "stock" engine. The Full Synthetic oil in these engines is a big help and I have run racing synthetic for years with fantastic results... There is another oil additive called XTreme Friction Fighter (www.xtremefriction.com/Home.html)... I have no affiliation or ties to the product other then just a user... I have this in my old M and I certainly feel it has saved me from a costly overhaul since I have been using it... Sorry you had so many issues, but hopefully you will have a great reliable 450 when you get back to the basics... Thank you again for making this
Your Axel will break soon
If you watched it to the end I said I was taking it off, turned a great reliable tractor into a finicky little 🤬 .
Man, I’m disappointed after hearing this now. I literally reached out to Keystone yesterday about a kit for 706 gas.
Well, I had to piss away several thousand dollars and learn the hard way:( exactly why I made this video 😎
@@chadhulstein5661 I appreciate the insight and experience you’ve conveyed. I hate that it didn’t work out for your application. I’m looking into other turbo options.
You have a six cylinder engine so you might be ok doing a turbo. Flat top pistons are a must . Like I said in the video a lot depends on how you use it. I know of several people that have this setup and it works great, short bursts of power it works well, I like to plow with mine and it was awful. Next would be pressure, 5 lbs max . Good luck.
@@chadhulstein5661 I use mine for similar applications, daily worker, not for show. I’ll definitely have to decide on which way to go on this.
15 lbs should double the hp, 25lbs is roughly just short of 3x original hp.. it's obvious stock parts won't work. I'm wondering what has become of the turbo kit manufacturer 7 yrs later..
Drag racers learned from the start Hard to turbo a Carburated Engine......
You say you gained 4 hp by using synthetic oil, I went out and put synthetic oil in my farmall 300 and i gained 3 hp just from that alone,
Ok …. I guess I’m not seeing your point other than your agreeing with me??
Adjust your timing take 2degrees out
Also start burning E85 your going to need to rejet the carb not sure but I’m thinking like 30% over
If you watched the entire video you’d know I tried all that stuff, also e85 isn’t available by bulk delivery on the farm at the time of this video, and I hate e-85. I have pop up pistons which creates hot spots therefore pre ignition. The engine should be built around the turbo which it’s not, ( flat top pistons) the part that ticked me off was Keystone advertised “ bolt on kit” with no modifications for any stock tractor of this era .. that’s not the case and lead me to making a video to warn others that this kit isn’t for the average enthusiast like the vendor claims.
Sorry to hear the turbo was such a disappointment. Wishing you a Happy Holliday Season. The 450 looks beautiful. Very nice job.
Thank you!!! It certainly was.. I could make one work if I built the engine around the turbo… but in stock fashion and what I use it for it was a shit show
Nice video. I'm cracking up about your comment about how this thing should be able to part the red sea according to the company that sold it!! I guess we learn as much in Life from things that are not successful as those that are.
Exactly right :) 👌🏻
I am glad that I seen your video. I was going to do the same thing but not any more thanks.
It’s can be done , however they advertise bolt on, no mods needed, COMPLETE BS. If you work it like I do you need several mods
PARTS PEOPLE JUST SELL PARTS..THEY CAN'T WRENCH...
THEY READY JACKED U AROUND...RETIRED LARRY IN INDIANAPOLIS...
I used to sell Turbocharges and to reduce intake manifold pressure slow the turbo down with a larger A/R Exhaust Manifold.
Stinks it didn't work. How much fuel was it using? My old gas 560 was about 65 hp plowing it used a gallon in about 12 min. Didn't think that was to bad considering the work it was doing. Doing light work a gallon coul last about 40 min. More horsepower = more fuel. Great video nice tractor I'm glad it's back to stock.
4 plus gallons an hour : better than doubled it from stock
I had a bad experience with a kit like that. I put a kit on my farmall 350 and after a few months the turbo started giving me trouble. I called them up and they told me to ship it back and they’ll take a look at it. Well they called me back and said there is absolutely nothing wrong with the turbo and it was probably something on my tractor. Bullshit. Luckily it didn’t ruin my tractor and I have it back to stock and it runs great. I’m still pissed of that I have over $1650 invested in a stupid turbo kit that was extremely overrated and besides $1650 would have bought me another tractor or a ton of aftermarket parts for it. Ps I’m pretty sure I found the exact turbo that they put on their M-450 kits on Amazon for under $200. Seems a little shady
It was a bad experience to say the least; dam liars . Blow bag too
@@chadhulstein5661 I’m sorry to hear about your bad experience. I’m just lucky that it didn’t ruin my engine
That sounds like Chinese shit to me
Have you looked into getting a hotter set of sparkplugs? I've had to do that on turbo charged audi engines, at boost you can have weak spark and an incomplete burn with stock plugs. Thanks for the video, was thinking about running one on my 54 r110 with an sd240.
Yea, I tried that as well : bottom line is you need a flat top piston for this application: mine were step up so I’m sure we had a hot spot resulting in pre- ignition. I made this video to save others lots of headaches😇
@@chadhulstein5661 I guess i'll look harder into an LS swap instead! thanks
Sorry for you. They were jerks. Thanks for the warning. One day soon i hope to have a good working farmall. Thanks again.
Your welcome 🙏🏻
What did you do with the turbo?
Gave it to a tractor puller
Need to check air-fuel ratio, back off total ignition timing while on the dyno. Probably starts hard cold because of the long run from carb, through turbo to manifold into engine. If you are using all the extra power from the turbo add on, it will use the amount of fuel for the horsepower used. If you are running domed pistons, you severely limit amount of boost you can use. With stock compression, 10 psi boost should be absolute max. More hp comes from higher cylinder pressures, and the fuel must be capable of working under those pressures. Sounds like you weren't given all the info you needed to make it work. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Lessons learned for sure; my whole point of the video was to share that it’s not a bolt on and go project like the old blow bags advertising , knowing what I know I could make it work but I was tired of pumping money into it and the extra power was taking it’s toll on the rest of the tractor as well
How much do you want for that kit I buy it
It’s long gone:: POS !!! Went on the iron pile
Fuel mixture is a big part
back your timing down I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado with a turbo back your timing down turn your boost back to 10 pounds you need to put air fuel mixture gauge on it
Do you really think I didn’t try that ?? 2 year span from video 1 to part 2 . The point of this video was to blow their bolt on and go advertising to pieces, several things a guy could do to make it work from a ground up build . The 4 cylinder intake system on IH gas tractors is very insufficient on 2 cylinders because they both pull from the same runner resulting in hot spots on these pistons for starters . AGAIN for what I use my tractor for this didn’t work and please, comparing my 57 farmall to your Chevy ....... well not even close to the same animal.
Terribly sorry for your troubles, however having had experience in high performance engines. Not anything I know is a straight bolt on. When one bolts on an Artificial aspirated pump, be it a blower or Turbo most commonly you have to check the Static pressure of the cylinder with the bare engine. So the rule of thumb is lets say @ 1700 RPM without the ignition running you check the pressure. And its at 180psi then you adjust your static with the Turbo Boost ( Determined Boost) at the same RPM no ignition and try to closely match turbo pressure with bare engine static pressure. This means that you will be able to determine how much you have to lower the Ratio of the pistons. At higher RPM with any engine that is when the engine is " LEAST" efficient, thats right least ! It is at higher RPM that engines leak mosts. There are many other factors to consider, but thats just the very very beginning what one needs to do. Normally when you have 10.0:1 compression pistons depending on boosts I would install 7.0:1 pistons to prevent "Pinging: a the beginning of the Turbo Boost.
I understand and you proved my point; this kit is being advertised as a bolt on and go with no mods , that’s why I made this video for others to see just how complex things really are versus the ad still put out today..
@@chadhulstein5661 I agree just like farming, one just does not raise cattle or plant crops. There is a theory behind it, I know nothing about farming but Im sure it is more than just text books
I missed your first video, thank for the info, me and a couple of other guys was thinking about this for Ms and super Ms... Not now.... Appreciate the heads up... to bad all the money and time you got on this didn't work.... it happens I guess....take care. We're from northwest Missouri.....
Dan Sloan / you are very welcome, it was a learning experience to say the least, bolt on and go!! Should’ve know better, oh well 😔
What did you end up doing?
Darrell Allison / I put it all back to stock and enjoy the tractor again. For what I do with this tractor the turbo was a nuisance
I didn’t catch your phone number. Do you still have the kit?
Chad Hulstein what’s your number? Do you have the kit? Where are you located?
I know this is old but...you happen to check the AFR with a wide band when it was warmed up and on the Dyno?
I could of made that thing run in an afternoon. Sorry you took it off.
twinstaged : so I must be a complete idiot along with all my life-long mechanics that assisted in this project then is what your saying
Chad Hulstein not saying you’re an idiot at all sir. I’m sorry you had so many problems and I agree the people selling the kit way over sold it. You got the basic bones in that kit, but no way would it ever run right without some luck. Turbo systems are my thing and I know how to make them work.
twinstaged : ok : we spent a few years and lots of dyno time trying all kinds of stuff and like you said the grossly over sold this set up. We threw in the towel when it came down to major modifications needing to be done to make it work. The old man at Keystone lies to us constantly
Chad Hulstein well if you know total timing under boost loaded, air temp, and air fuel ratio with a wide band you could of tuned it to run right. The pyrometer should be pre turbo, but will only give you an idea on ignition timing and for a mild setup isn’t really necessary, but it’s nice to have. Draw through carb stuff can be tricky, but without a wideband you are flying blind.
Did you back the timing Off? Also a intercooler would be a great help.
cmsracing ... of course I did ; the point I made was you are not going to “ bolt on and go “ like the blow bag told me countless times..
Shoulda set it to 5lbs of boost and just buy a bottle of octane booster to add with your pump gas.
Kyle Kenan !! I was running 114 octane race fuel 🤦♂️ octane boost is not the answer here ; I give the facts in the video on what needed to happen. I messed with this kit countless hours before pulling it off
I doubt you actually have stock pistons which would have a low 6.6:1 compression ratio. IH quit selling stock pistons for those older Farmalls probably back in the 1960s. For instance, the stock kit for an M was discontinued in 1960 per our books at the CaseIH dealer I once worked at. The mechanics there all thought the M came standard with 4" pistons, not 3-7/8". This was before the internet educated so many of us. At any rate your cooling system would lack severely not only in the radiator but you would want an engine oil cooler too regardless of stock pistons or not.
SilverGleaner : yea I agree: the whole point I was making is this kit is very dishonest in their claims that no mods are required to run this kit!! I want people to know of all the BS that may come with this power adder 😊
Get yourself a good lp head and call it a day. Thanks for the review, I think I will hold off on a the turbo.
Travis Houck : the turbo is long gone , settled in on 61 reliable hp from the stock setup; much happier now that she back :)
if it is pinging turn the distributor
Brian Dolata : do you really think I didn’t do that ?? 🤦♂️
sorry @@chadhulstein5661
Sorry for your troubles. Good looking tractor!!!
Thanks for posting. You probably saved me an engine and lots of headaches.
Jaydon Denton your welcome: Have a great new year 😎
Chad Hulstein - what did you end up doing? Did they make it right with you? Do you still have the kit?
Maby I shouldn’t buy one for my farmall m .
Tom Jones ; depends on what your plans are for the tractor ; flat top pistons are a must
with the cost of the kit and extra bits, youre better off buying a lp head and dflat top pistons or pop up pistons if you can. honestly i would just repower it with a small block or big block and call it good i personally would want to instal a I6 ford 300 cid
Sorry you had all the problems with that kit, I think you're doing the rite thing but it ba k to stock! Very nice looking Tractor! 👍
Turbo engines like a lower compression ratio. I'd bet that if you put in flat top pistons and a distillate head, it would like pump gas a lot better and still make great power
Jon Barks I agree completely, my point through this whole thing was I was told an entirely different story by the old man blow bag and I spent 3 years working with him and I was tired of it : I said in my last video you need flat top pistons for this setup to work
chad would you not put one on a 706 gas 263 motor just rebuilt about 100 hours ago just curious thanks
The 6 cylinders seem to work better than the 4 due to a different intake design . Depends on how you use it ; if your a tractor puller it works great; lots of power for a short time; if you plow like I do it doesn’t work worth a dam because it heats up. Parade tractor or dinking around on the farm say mowing hay , raking ditches and that sort of thing it would be ok. I didn’t like it because it turned a very reliable tractor into a fickle little pain in my ass !! I was always adjusting the carburetor and what not; I cold tell the extra power was hard on other stuff as well . Fitech makes a 2 barrel throttle body fuel injection kit that is also capable of controlling your timing that I would love to try on a 6 cylinder ; if you could control those 2 with the turbo setup would be the real deal 😎
I'm more of a diesel man, but in my opinion adding a turbo on these older gas engines I think the maximum boost to remain stock would be right around 2-3# max. Personally I think keystone grossly oversold their product. If your tractor pulling the higher boost may work with alot of modification, but on a daily runner using it to plow etc like you I'd be in the 2-3# area. 25# is a crazy number when stock 150 hp Diesels under load will only be roughly 15#. Allis Chalmers use to say 1# of boost was equal to roughly 10 hp. Threw the years, regardless of brand I find that to be pretty accurate, on stock engines. On a smaller gas engine I'm not sure of what 2-3# would give you but if it gave you 15 - 20 hp over stock, I think the rest of the system would be pretty safe, ie radiator, intake, head gaskets etc.
Here I was wanting to see if they could whip something up on my WD45 diesel. Not now.
Find you a turbo off a D-19 Turbo Diesel.
Repower with a 3.9 Cummins.
what compression ratio do you have?
What would 2.5 pounds of boost do??. U already got it all on there.
Mark Gamble : kit is long gone , no looking back either.... 😊
You might try converting to propane? It's much higher octane.
Nice sound to that awesome tractor, plowing looks “airplane runway straight” What year is your 450? I really enjoyed watching the videos about the turbo, I will not be doing a turbo kit to my newly acquired 1941 “B” but could you imagine if I did, I might break 20 HP! Thank you for the great videos.
Bryan Haugen 57... thanks 👍🏻
3rd torque back
Nice! What gear were you pulling it in?
I'm glad to see your beautiful 450 out in the field. Turbo or not, it still sounds great.
I hope you dyno it again after going back to stock. I'm curious to see if the synthetic oil hp increase holds up naturally aspirated.
Chad would you be interested in talking over the kit I have built 6 tractors on gas for farm work 400 case, 88 Oliver's farmall H and others the carb on your tractor was alot of the problem I use snowmobile units the fuel metering is vastly better that one is little more than a semi controlled fuel leak and secondly water alcohol injection would have solved your gas issue you could have run regular gas it would have run on it on anything less than 10 pounds of boost I have done it successfully multiple times I can build you a water injection kit that is Boost controlled that will cost you less than $15 and work flawlessly with no maintenance I would like to talk to you if you are still interested if you have given up on the I'm using the turbo that's okay but I can make it run I've done it before and I can do it on that one here is my email if you'd like to get in touch with me gene21674@Gmail.com I wish I would have found you video sooner I think I could have saved you a lot of trouble and disappointment
Good Information -- I was going to put one of the Keystone kits on my "M" with fire crater pistons... BUT old red runs so good now I just didn't want to mess it up... I agree with what you are saying about the gages and info on the boost on the Turbo... I have Turbos on my cars and never run more the 7PSI on the boost, but that is just me... I talked to my local Farmall repair folks here and this is what I am told if I want more horsepower on a stock engine... use an intake manifold from a LP gas engine to help with the horsepower... I am sure the heads are good because you just had them reworked... I am told the LP gas manifold will give a 10-15% horsepower boost, but I have no actual numbers. (Sorry) You have done some fantastic work on the 450 and now have a better "stock" engine. The Full Synthetic oil in these engines is a big help and I have run racing synthetic for years with fantastic results... There is another oil additive called XTreme Friction Fighter (www.xtremefriction.com/Home.html)... I have no affiliation or ties to the product other then just a user... I have this in my old M and I certainly feel it has saved me from a costly overhaul since I have been using it... Sorry you had so many issues, but hopefully you will have a great reliable 450 when you get back to the basics... Thank you again for making this
antares727 your welcome 😎