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@@TLAS In the joint between the slider and the cast iron tablesaw table, either above the bolts or below depending on which way you need to tilt the slider if necessary. It's very well explained in the install manual if you purchase this. This is just a heads up to pre purchase shims in case you need them.

Great, glad it's helpful! It was pretty easy to make. I used the planer to creep up on the right dimensions for a snug and flush fit, and it went pretty quick. The shim piece at the top, I snugged that against the right side of the aluminum fence as well, where it angles in, for extra support, then screwed it down into the beefier maple block, so it doesn't wiggle at all. It's an amazing fence, worth it in every way.

Cool glad it was helpful. To answer you partially: 1. Yes, one of my favorite things about the fence is the dust collection. It works very well. I've seen elaborate setups for drill press dust collection that I'm sure work better, but 90% of the time this works great for me. The other 10% I just hold a vacuum hose against my bore. I think the effectiveness of the dust collection is probably the #1 selling point of this fence. 2. I can't remember exactly the adapter size but I'll bring one with me next time I go to Woodcraft and find out for ya. I have 3 of them, one for my incra router table fence, one for my tabletop bandsaw, and one for my drill press. It's pretty standard I guess from regular non-festool vacuum hose size to festool size. 3. Ha I still have not gotten around to purchasing new flip stops. I normally just clamp down a stop block and think, "man I need new flip stops." I like the stop that Katz-Moses made. I use it on my crosscut sleds. It's simple, effective, and very adjustable. 4. I do use the rulers on the the tabletop t-track to get me in the ballpark quickly. There are little white lines in the fence itself (not lined up in the video) that line up with the inside edge of my t-tracks when I'm centered with the fence, so it's quick and easy to get close. They do sell those independently you just need to call and ask for them. Or at least when I ordered that was the case. I wouldn't say they are necessary though, just helpful. They were not very expensive if I remember right. To get a precise distance from the fence I flip my sacrificial plate (embed it off-center to the bit so you can rotate the block) to a clean spot, drop a bradpoint down to make a mark, then I use that mark and a ruler to move the fence forward or back and get a very precise distance from fence. 5. Absolutely, I love the long fence. If you have room for it, it's been very nice to have longer stuff well supported. As much as I hate those flip-stops, I love the fence. It's been a home run for me. I hope that helps some!

@@BelmontWorkshop Thank you, really helpful answers. JKM's flip stop is a great idea, always thought of for crosscut sleds but you're right this would work really well here I bet. Good idea about offsetting the sacrificial piece. Would it be easier to instead make a mark below the sacrificial piece (permanent), then take measurements from that point? The added benefit you can always re-center the entire table by dropping a bit into that permanent hidden hole below the sacrificial piece? I think woodpeckers does it this way on the tables they sell....though I could be wrong, and am fab'ing my own anyway.

​@@Otto_Irvingyeah good ideas, I just sorta calibrate the distance from fence manually. The vacuum adapter size you want, to connect up a festool hose to this fence, is 2.25" OD by 1.5" OD. a.co/d/itefY6v

I don't know what the measurement is on your cast iron tracks. My cast iron top has much larger t-tracks. Woodpecker uses 1/4" t-tracks, so you'd need to build a secondary table like I did, and most woodworkers do.