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UPDATE: I registered with JUST TRACK IT for Barber Motorsports Park on January 11th and 12th. I have new tires and big brake kit on car now.

@@escottc Don't brake later for speed with front wheel drive and small displacement, brake earlier get on the gas earlier and let the engine pull you through, also trail brake to control wheel spin and understeer but not hard, it's kind of tricky if everyone could do it, they would. Late braking is only for passing or defending not for speed as it scrubs off too much momentum.. So by that I mean hard braking earlier to scrub off the necessary speed needed and especially with a DSG and turbo you have some serious lag time there, (relatively speaking) get your downshift done early and be on the RPM's on entry with brake depressed, (left foot by now if you're not already braking with it) hold the car back with the left foot on the brake and use it to control your throttle through and out of the corner. If your tires begin spinning and you have understeer on exit then slightly apply some brake while holding down the throttle to control that if you need to control understeer if you have oversteer (hopefully as that's fast) you apply more throttle and steer into the slide slowly bringing your wheel back to straight as it begins to grip, up to a point as long as you have track left, as the tires are slipping instead of gripping and they tend to slide into the direction of the corner exit, lift the brake slightly, accordingly and make adjustments to brake pressure. People always think this wears down your brakes but actually the opposite is true, you'll use a lot more brake if you brake deeper and harder at top speed, slowing the entire weight of the car plus momentum. Once you brake hard you heat up the brakes for the entire corner so they grab harder when you touch them slightly like you should do when needed in the corner. It takes less friction for your brakes to hold back the engine as the cars weight is also helping with this than it does to slow the car from high speed and you want to carry as much speed as possible through the corners to maintain that speed on the straight and gradually build faster laps. On a 10 turn course 1 MPH per corner is equivalent to obviously 10 more MPH per lap. 1 mile an hour isn't much but it equates to making your competition look like they're anchored when you pass them on the straight, especially if that straight is the last thing on the lap. Imagine if you added 5 mph in each corner? Which still isn't much but it's dramatic the difference. Something I just remembered, none of this is possible if you still have the factory ECU unflashed because cars of these generations have a cutout that cuts out the throttle if you have your foot on the brake and try to apply throttle at the same time. It's a safety feature added due to some lady (and others like her) who pressed both at the same time in her SUV some years back and killed her daughter by running into her in her garage and pinning her against the wall. I ran into this when I tested a newer generation Polo when I was racing in China and they had not flashed the ecu to remove it, it really killed my lap times and my brakes, that is one of my biggest advantages. Scrub the idea of larger tires up front, larger tires cost more needlessly and have more rolling resistance and not necessarily more traction, they will slow you down and in the wet it's even worse. What tire pressures do you start out with? And do you have any damper, sway bar or alignment adjustments available? Traction control is up to you, it may be quicker if you can't get the trail braking down which is essentially manual traction control. I do not prefer it however, as it controls through throttle kill when I want more throttle, not less. It may prevent a loss of control but it also prevents going faster with most cars but especially a front wheel drive car.

@@escottc Not heel and toe with a DSG, that's a manual clutch expression, you merely have to use your left foot on the brake and your right on the throttle go kart style and even if you had a manual clutch it would only be heel and toe while downshifting and rev matching, once in your selected gear on corner entry you'd be left braking AKA trail braking. I would hope tire squeal wouldn't get the marshalls upset, just drive and if they have an issue they'll talk to you about it and you'll know the limits for the weekend. No one's going to suspend you for driving the limits, that's the whole point, they only get upset when you go OVER the limits which to me doesn't include squealing tires. Don't worry about all that "tech stuff" for now, just drive the car as it is, get faster in it the way it is and get yourself a baseline of performance, when you start topping out lap after lap at the same tracks in similar conditions and you feel you can't get any more out of yourself then think about performance changes. The biggest thing you can do with a "street/track car" is tire compounds and pressures, you don't use your daily driver tires for track days right? I hope not but if you do that's the best starting place, if so? Get yourself a set of performance tires and both sets will last you longer but you'll get much better performance and a lot more fun on the track tires. Tire pressures are one key thing with "stock" based cars and classes, the right pressure in the right tire can make all the diff. only a pound or two in the correct tire can make a massive difference in performance so bring an air can and play with them up and down only a pound or two at a time. As for starting pressures you told me they were a few lbs under street pressure but I have no idea what that starting pressure was? What brand are they and BTW if your pressures are right you won't get a lot of squeal but squealing is just air being squeezed through the tread and compressed it happens more with longer tread, another reason to get yourself some track tires with less tread and softer compound. Take a bottle of white shoe polish with you, put four stripes about 3 inches long over the sidewall corner across the tread towards the wheel direction at quarter intervals around the tire, about 1.5 inches in length on each side, [tread side and sidewall side splitting the difference]. Take a couple of hot laps and then see how much rollover you have? If your taking off more than say an inch on the side wall your pressure is likely too low, if you aren't taking off that much than your pressure is likely too high or your not pushing enough. This is without any camber adjustments at OEM settings, all that changes if you have camber adjustments and that is another book entirely..