Відео

I got to hang out with some cavers this summer, they use a system called "wrap 3 pull 2". Since the knot is in the wrap that fully against the object you're wrapping, there's less load on the water knot

Short rappels are ok double-strand, but any rappel bigger than 20ft, or with complications like inability to see the bottom, I default to rigging that affords spare rope. A 'biner blocks on medium rappels gives you the possible contingency of using the tail end to rappel yourself down to the first rappeller (if they have problems, get stuck, etc). A totem block on larger rappels keeps the same ability but adds contingency lowering as a possible recovery option. In order of preference, rappelling on the inactive tail of a blocked rappel (biner or totem) is dangerous. You are counterbalanced and you will fall if the other person touches bottom and lets go of their brake. You should do this only in an emergency, and remind the other person constantly throughout the rest of the rappel. using the totem to lower a person if they get stuck is a safer option.

I was also worried when he was passing those hikers on opposite side.

I had a 3/2 back zip full suit and a 7mm farmer john. It was warm but too stiff, i was tired from lifting my legs. Now i have a 5/4 neck entry fullsuit thats warmer (no zipper) and more fexible.

If you are going to have chains, why not have rhem all the way?

You are not far off, it was build in 1926, that stone was quarried to be unfinished in shape to appear natural and match the surroundings. See: npshistory.com/publications/zion/nr-angels-landing-trail.pdf

Thanks for the comment, you might try converting a top belay to a 3:1 (if someone’s hair gets stuck).

Looks like 5 to 1

I think it's a 2:1 pulling on a 3:1 which is 6:1

​@@ADDekoning100 Thanks for clearing up the theoretical Mechanical Advantage (MA) for those who are not as informed. The thing is, in this system you're pulling on a (theoretical) 3:1 with a very inefficient 2:1, making a compound 6:1. I don't see that you get the extra 1:1 from the tail you're pulling on, just the 2:1 hauling on the 3:1 system (~6:1). The issue here is that the components used are not at all efficient, except for the pulley. The Ropeman at the anchor serves as Progress Capture and redirect, but does not have a pulley, so you have to drag the haul line over the cam, and around a tight bend, creating lots of friction. This brings the first system closer to 2:1 than 3:1. The separate 2:1 created by the short line goes around a carabiner, which creates lots of drag; this gives you closer to a 1:1 than the theoretical 2:1. Having one efficient pulley in the system is great, but taking into account the inefficiencies of the rest of the system, you probably don't get over around a 3:1 to 4:1 in the end.

Nothin special, it's wells lamont gloves from Walmart. Leather palm with a fabric/mesh back.

It's possible, but will be very close to coming short on one side if double stranding the big rappel. I was on a biner block and needed 65m plus 10-15 ft of pullcord.

The reason to buy a vt prusik is that you can used for things a 6mm cordage prusik can't deal. It can be used as a rapel device. Which you wouldn't want to do with cheap 6mm cordage (won't melt due to aramid sheath) . VT prusik also grabs better due to the increased friction from having less core (flatter). If you're only using the 6mm cord as a prusik that's fine, but a vt can out perform it in many other ways.

Agreeing with everything Lok MTB said. The VT also releases under tension if it’s tied above the rappel device, whereas most other prusiks would lock down and be extremely difficult to release if weighted. This allows you to maintain more control of your rappel by keeping your rappel device right on the harness itself instead of having to extend it on a sling while you load the prusik below the rappel device. From what I’ve seen, people tying autoblocks below their devices end up spending (wasting) more time tying and retying it to get the friction setting right, only to have it STILL tighten up or be too loose mid-rappel. The VT is a fantastic device.

Yes, these are good ideas. If he had a footloop on his harness, a second rope wouldn't be needed, it's just as possible to attach a footloop on the main rope above the jam. If he *didn't* have a footloop, a second rope would be necessary. In that approach, the most time-efficient, gear-minimal solution is to tie a figure 8 on a bight in the main rope tail (or an entirely separate second rope) and drop that down as a reeeeallly long footloop. He/she sticks foot in the figure 8 and stands up on that second rope strand.

@@vanyoneer I was assuming that the stuck person did not have any gear so I thought dropping a second line and letting him/her tie a foot loop in the best location would be an efficient solution. I really enjoyed your video and your description of the the problem and solution. As a rock climber, I carry an entirely different set of gear (GriGri for belaying, ATC guide for rappelling, and lots of slings and carabiners, etc). I liked how you solved the problem with your gear.

In this specific case my friend didn't have a footloop and I was firmly set on a conversion to Totem lower, it was what I knew and could recall under pressure. But your comment is more efficient and a better tactic to practice and internalize. Glad you enjoyed.

Hard to think of options when you're in the thick of it. The person Stuck on rapel could have made a foot loop in the free hanging rope below them stood up on it and unjammed their equipment. Self rescue is usually the easiest. Other things could have included zipping an ascender/ropegrab down to them on the rapel line so they could unweight themselves. That's assuming they know how to use the tool.

The basket is not entirely redundant without adding an overhand at the masterpoint (it's only redundant in terms of adding redundant strength via more strands) If one strand of the basket breaks, it fails. The benefit of this is that there is break redundancy and strength redundancy. Also the link/rapide is not trapped by a masterpoint knot and can slide on the webbing and equalize.

It’s a Flemish bend, aka a figure-8 bend, and someone tied one tail with an overhand (which is useless). We are in the habit of using this bend with no backups. It is strong, doesn’t experience cyclic slipping/rolling off the tail. Nor can I find evidence of this knot ever failing. We rig releasable and rappel single strand, therefore the joining knot must be “in front” the anchor instead of “behind” the anchor. Therefore the knot experiences full weight with cyclic loads, which might roll the EDK off the tail (maybe with a backup knot it wouldn’t be that big a concern)

@@vanyoneer Thanks for the input. I was taught and have always used the EDK (with lots of tail). I believe it is the least prone to getting stuck. I was just curious as to the reasoning, Thanks for the response and clarification. Good Stuff

This sounds like the vt prusik was used below the descender and it got caught in the descender.

Much better to have prusiks and know how to self rescue. A sharp knife near a weighted rope is a scary thing!

Tony Jewel certainly it’s not the first choice, but tying off and cutting the VT is an option here. Those VTs aren’t free tho

He used a Critr, with VT autoblocking *above* the critr.

@@vanyoneer So your friend had the VT tied as an auto block, not in the valdotain tresse configuration? How, exactly, did it get stuck? It seems like either the auto block or VT config could have been moved with his free hand...? Great video, man.

@thejacobean He was using the VT tied as a VT, but my guess is he got the wrap pattern wrong. It got stuck because it was wrong but really all the prussik variations tend to cinch much tighter when above the device weighted with full body weight. it's happened to me practicing, climbers never experience this because they autoblock below their device, so it doesn't see full weight.

@@vanyoneer Weighing the pros and cons, I've decided that I prefer an auto block below my rappel device most of the time. This story helps confirm my opinion on this. Also an auto block or VT Prusik that's above the rap device, can get pinched and stuck if you go over an overhang and the hitch goes against the rock. The two times that I can think of to use a VT Prusik above the rappel device is if you think the rope might not reach (easier to rig for ascending) or if you have to pass a knot. A VT Prusik can make this much easier.

The VT hitch can be mastered and become second nature. But when canyoneering the best braking system is a friend at the bottom giving a fireman belay. I would suggest you try a variety of techniques to find what works for you. I personally use a Squwurel or Critr and find that you cannot “lock off” with a below autoblock. I also like the device close to my harness as it makes downclimbs easier. Practice and repetition with your chosen technique makes you an expert with muscle memory at whatever you choose.

It was my 2nd time, one year elapsed between. My fitness had improved over the year. Best trick is to pay close attention to how much vertical or vert you can handle while hiking. This hike is 1000' of vertical gain in 2 miles. It is strenuous!

Very physical, but amazing