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bikedawg69
Приєднався 6 чер 2009
'96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
Video detailing the quality of an OEM CPS vs aftermarket. Sorry, the video is a little dark but the point comes across.
The dependance of the CPS over the operation of the jeep is critical. The majority of the ignition problems on a jeep is due to the CPS.
Even a new sensor can continue to cause a problem due to the quality. Many people may no longer believe the CPS is the issue since a new aftermarket CPS was installed.
The dependance of the CPS over the operation of the jeep is critical. The majority of the ignition problems on a jeep is due to the CPS.
Even a new sensor can continue to cause a problem due to the quality. Many people may no longer believe the CPS is the issue since a new aftermarket CPS was installed.
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Відео
'96 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCM Repair
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Details on the common failure of the PCM on the Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm an Electrical Engineer who works in a semiconductor manufacturing facility. My main hobby is frugal auto repair.
Excellent video -- Thanks!
12 years later this has saved me. THANK YOU !
He’d be happy to know that. He’s a very modest, but brilliant guy.
What was your jeep doing? Mine had a bad ignition coil code so i replaced that and nothing changed. Runs fine until it get warm and then starts wanting to cut off when coming to a stop
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Is the first connextor on the header for the voltage regulator side a ground?
My 96 XJ keeps randomly dying. Gonna have to try this! TY.
Good work dud. Thanks a bunch for the insights , knowledge is wisdom.....thanks dud
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This fixed it. I soldered in those few spots and put it back together. you saved me 300 dollars for a new one! Just a bad solder can ruin everything.
I started to pour boiling water on my PCM and it starts up every time
Ive been trying to fix my 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 for about 6 months now I've replaced the crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, ignition coil, purge valve, fuel filter, idle air valve, and a full tune up. It runs like a champ but just dies sometimes at random times like at an idle, driving straight, turning. If im going over 40 most of the time it will back fire then die. Then normally takes a little while to get running again once I was stuck for 30 minutes. Im not very knowledgeable in mechanics and everything I have done has been from videos and reading forms. This was kinda my last resort but I got hit with a foot of snow so this morning I tried this method as well as shorting the screws, something I saw on another video, and it fired right up! Just took it to the mountains for a 2 hour snow romp. I could not have had the confidence with out this detailed video thank you.
I really hope this is my problem. I bought a 96 limited 5.2L for my stepdaughter because she wanted a 4wd SUV. It's been nothing but problems since. I drive it no issues she drives it and it randomly starts backfiring, chugging as she says and has no power. Then I drive it again all good! New alternator 2 year old battery and system tests good but sometimes it says good battery - recharge. I'm assuming the pcm voltage regulator is randomly disconnecting. Ordered new computer before seeing this video but for $200 I'm hoping this fixes it.
Got a 2012 dodge advenger I put a voltage regulator on car to by pass the charging system to computer.Still have problems and cant get new pcm for it.The part is obsolete. What do I need to do.
thank you so much for the info I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo every things fine when driving But when jeep is in park about a minute goes by it stalls out Starts right back up after though
Thank you sir!
HEY JEEPERS,, WOULD THIS BE THE SAME FOR A WRANGLER 4 CYL ? THANKS!!
Thanks man. Haave a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee I tried this and it seemed to work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me $$
2:57 On the left of the board in that shot is an IGBT that fires the ignition coil. It supplies a ground to the ignition coil to fire it and that ground is looped through a shunt resistor so the computer can see the current which is analyzed by the adc next to it.
I bet you that's what's wrong with mine mine is getting no fire I ran a jumper wire from pin number 3 to ground on the battery and the truck now runs but it runs awful it's idle's at like 2500 RPM Is bucking an hesitation I just disassembled my computer I'm about to resault or all the pins on the whole board
@@jasonmurdoch9936 The ground is switched on/off to create the spark so adding a jumper might not help... Replace the two big electrolytic caps on it with new low ESR, long life, automotive grade caps with a large temperature range. Any electrolytic caps on the board will be well outside their normal life of about 5 to 10 years especially in the abusive automotive environment under the hood. The caps and maybe reflow the solder on every pin of every connector... But if the problem is the PCM, get a newer one programmed ASAP... The older jtec computers are usually garbage anyway.
Is the first connector pin on the left a ground?
@@thefatman2103 I wish I could tell you. I don't have the old PCM anymore to check. I just bought a cheap PCM online form one of the repair shops like flagship one and what I got was a generation newer that works so much better on that engine.
What website did you buy the sensor from.
This worked on my 96 now runs like a top 4wd. Drove 835 miles from Oklahoma to Indiana. Averaged 18.5 mpg @ an average speed between 75 to 80 mph.
I have a 1997 Jeep ZJ 5.2 with a different PCM marked 417AB. I have no idea how to open this unit as it looks different than the one in the video.. Need help!
Great Job, I fixed the problem by using Electronics Cleaner spray (available at parts store) and spraying on all connections on the main cable. Did not have to remove it. remove all cables, spray both the Cable assembly connectors and also the pins inside the housing. Allow a good time to dry or blow out with air. The cleaner is an evaporant, so will dry quickly. plug everything back together and try it out. If this does not work, then maybe a connection internal is oxidized or broken as he indicates in the video. Folks....keep in mind this is just a deeper fix if the external sensors have been proven "OK".
I have been having this problem for a year!! I bought a cheap eBay sensor. I kept getting a misfire. Thank you!
great video - am gonna put the cheep (15$) one in but if i have trouble def gonna swap that out
ugh
I know this video is old but I really need a question answered. My PCM does not have that board in the back cover. Is an
dont do it yourself , my screw fell into the waiting transmission big 2x2 inch hole right above the top hope on the crankcase sensor . if you do it yourself you better have small hands on a good universal socket with a magnet. i couldnt get screw of my transmission makes a awful noise the repair made me have to contemplate selling my truck. i may do a video on it
How did your jeep start acting? I can drive it for about 30 mins then on acceleration I loose power an wants to stall when giving more acceleration . What do you suggest?
CPM
Dude, How did you soldering? its dificult for the dissipator.
I just did this solder trick myself on my 98 GC with the 4.0 and surprisingly it fired right up. Felt like doing a jig I was so thrilled but I'm sure the neighbors would have called the men with the straight jackets on me.
Was it easy to do I am very mechanically inclined but don't wanna mess this up
Where is the pcm at?
Good job man I know what took for before tear it apart
Wanting to know if there is a certain fuse I need to change that controls the lighter,and if so,where is it at?
What if the connector pad looks like it's peeling up? Ima splash some sodder around and hope for the best.
Thank you for the info. Good to know about the pins and magnet values.. Jeez though, I can find an aftermarket sensor for 15 bucks.. Mopar wants 80. Oh well. Get what you pay for.
My 96 jeep grand cherokee v6 4.0liter engine my jeep hiccups when its idling an when i put it in reverse then push on the break itll stall out but also when i start to drive it itll feel like itll start bucking i changed my ecu my spark plug wires an im stumped i cant figure it out does anyone have any fix to this problem???????????????????
I have the same jeep couldn't figure it out... started unplugging sensors while under load and found out my coolant sensor was full of what looked like oil at the connection. cleaned it out real good and replaced the sensor with a new one and now runs fine. Hope this helps.
hey i junt want to ask, i have a 96 jeep grand cherokee and i have a same problem, i need your help how to fix my ECU, i been try to fix but still not work's please help me
Thank you very much. This is a very helpful information about the PCM. Great video!
Hi all, A big THANKS to you all for posting your videos on UA-cam or your comments on the countless forums to help people out with their problems. I'm posting this to possibly help others out there that may need it, because I found that everyone had slightly different issues around the stalling problem. Mine was different also. I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that had a stalling issue. It's fixed now, but I'll let you briefly know what happened. My Jeep was fine when it was a cold or cool temperature but would always stall when it got to a normal heated operational temperature and stopped at lights or backed up traffic at idle. It wouldn't start for at least another 30 minutes until it had cooled enough. I then realised it was always in D-drive when it stalled, so I tried flicking it to neutral every time I was stopped and it wouldn't stall until I got to my destination and tried to start it straight away. Again i would have to wait for it to cool and then it would start. After stalling I checked the diagnosis codes by turning the ignition to the 2nd position 6 times and waiting for the codes to flash. That told me to replace the coolant temperature sensor, the crankshaft positon sensor, take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and the completed diagnosis code 55. I disconnected the ground battery terminal from battery and started with the cheapest of options which was the coolant temperature sensor. After replacing the coolant temperature sensor and connecting the battery, I then checked the stalling issue by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it stalled and wouldn't start for 30 minutes. I then decided on the crankshaft option so I disconnected the ground battery terminal, changed the crankshaft position sensor and tested it also by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it didn't stall. Problem fixed. I then checked the diagnosis codes again and no codes came up, besides the code for less than 50 key starts since the battery was last disconnected and the completed diagnosis code 55. Regards Kurtis
I replaced the crank position sensor (twice!) and I still have the problem. Just want to ask if your problem ever came back?
Tara S My problem is fixed. It hasn't come back. I did buy an authentic expensive crank position sensor $300 Aust dollars. Try a search for how to get diagnostic codes for 96 Jeep. It explains that you have to put your key into the ignition and turn it to 2nd position 6 times and leave it in 2nd position and then you count the flashes of the check engine light. Example, if it flashes twice then pauses and then once it means 21. If it flashes 4 times then pauses and then another 4 times that means 44. I got those codes then I bought a Haynes 1996 jeep manual and it explains all the codes. That really helped me. Let me know how you go.
I have an OBD2 scanner ... I've had zillions of codes already which I have replaced ... crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ignition coil, etc. Each time things seemed to be fixed and then I'd get a stall <100 miles later. I finally ended up pulling out my PCM and soldering the connection (like the video says.) It's been >800 miles (updated 10/13/17) now with no stall. I declare brain surgery a success! Thanks a lot for the reply... and thanks to original poster for the video giving me courage to try!
Tara S well done. You tube vids really do help with the courage aspect hey? Good luck with it all.
do you remove sticker on bottom of sensor
No
What's a "pretty solid PCM" vs a not-so-solid PCM? If it's prone to failure, it's not solid!
Your question/comment is kind of two-part and not-so-solid itself, i'll do my best to answer it. A "not so solid" ecu would be one like a Yugo EFI ECU: No sealant, looks like the inside of an AM radio, very low quality electronic components used. A "pretty solid" ECU would be ones made by chrysler, mercedes-benz' newer stuff, ABS computers in some older Volvos, TCMs in some GM vehicles, etc. The most "solid" ones I seem to be those made by BMW, Honda, Nissan, and Toyota. All electronics are "prone to failure". Remember an ECU/PCM/TCM/BCM/whatever you want to call it is a COMPUTER, complete with microchips and software. The design/quality of the components used on some make them MORE prone, or "not so solid". Does that make sense? If your looking for "solid" and not "prone to failure" I'd either buy a kia with a 10 year warranty so your covered, buy an old car with no electronics period, or start using those getaway sticks and walk everywhere. ALL computers and mechanical systems are prone to failure.
TYVM
Great vid, Thank's for the info, I appreciated the demo ,
Great Information. Thanks
katasztrofa a sok duma!!
The PCM on mine 1996 Grand Cherokee 5.2 has a different model PCM, this wont work for all the them
I have a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 and my pcm is totally different than the one on this video
Cause his is a Zj and urs is a Wj..
Harrison Kelley thank you for taking the time to reply to me
help guys how do we remove the glue the board is glued and im unnable to take it off
its gel and u should be able to pry off
After you pry it off how do you replace the gel? Does it just pop back into place?
Thanks for the video and info. I think I'm going to pick up a spare at the yard before removing and cracking it open.
Genius.
Gotta have some Ninja soldering skills for this, que no?
Thank you
Looking for info about the issue on my jeep I found your vid. I did the same welding on all the pins my jeep is been working with out dying for about 2 weeks now, now I have to replace the catalytic
Still no problems 8 months later?
WAIT A SEC,. HERE WHAT U MEAN BY A TEMPER RESISTANT SCREW.....? CAN U GET THEM OUT W/ A REGULAR SCREW DRIVER ( POWER OR NON POWER ... )....?
Awesome, man. I replaced the crank and cam sensor. $120. Then the alternator went out. $110. I have a 96 GCL. Ready to shoot it. It cut out on me last night 3 miles from home. Threw a P0351 for the coil. Pulled it back home and it cranked up. WTF? Saw your vid. Soldered all the connections. My turn signals work now. So does my horn-previously disconnected for alarm related issues? Running great now. Will update if change.
Forgot - the rear wiper came back to life. Great fix, dude.
nice----------- I just finished a rebuild and drop in of a 4.0 bored 30 over cam and crank ...ect to much to list drove it for 600 miles runs smooth and strong just redid intake gasket had a leak and now all sealed up no noise but it runs but sputtery and takes a few cranks to get'er fired.. Detroit home of jeeps and creeps its a safe place to live---
Jason, still good after 10 months?