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Elliott Assoc Radon
United States
Приєднався 24 кві 2013
Experts in Radon Gas, Asbestos, and Mold - Elliott & Associates is committed to protecting the health and home values of families like yours since 1986.
What really sets us apart from our competition is that we CARE about your family’s health and want to design the best system for your home. We don’t just install a generic system and hope it works. We scientifically test each home to determine the best location for your system so that it will be both effective and efficient.
What really sets us apart from our competition is that we CARE about your family’s health and want to design the best system for your home. We don’t just install a generic system and hope it works. We scientifically test each home to determine the best location for your system so that it will be both effective and efficient.
Cooking Up A Radon System
Elliott describes the important components of a successful radon mitigation system
Переглядів: 72
Відео
Benefits of the new Fantech Rn EC fan series
Переглядів 8194 роки тому
The new Fantech Rn EC fans offer variable speeds and can be adjusted for the efficiency of radon mitigation systems.
LDVI vs Regular Rubber Couplings
Переглядів 5324 роки тому
Comparison of traditional rubber couplings vs. LDVI rubber couplings for radon mitigation systems.
LDVI vs Regular Rubber Couplings
Переглядів 1084 роки тому
Comparison of traditional rubber couplings vs. LDVI rubber couplings for radon mitigation systems.
Not All Radon Contractors Are The Same Part 1
Переглядів 1,8 тис.4 роки тому
All radon mitigation companies are licensed by the State of Illinois. However, this license only means that they have a basic understanding of radon and paid the licensing fee - not knowledge of the building codes for a properly constructed radon system. Very few mitigation contractors have the knowledge, experience, and common sense with building codes and construction to properly install a ra...
Testimonial - Carol from Darien, IL
Переглядів 1205 років тому
See what this satisfied client has to say about Elliott & Associates!
How We Seal Gravel Crawl Spaces
Переглядів 5525 років тому
How we seal gravel crawl spaces to prevent radon from entering the home.
How We Seal Basement Floor Cracks and Wall/Floor Joints
Переглядів 49 тис.5 років тому
How we seal radon entry routes such as basement floor cracks and wall/floor joints
Testimonial - Linda from Woodridge, IL
Переглядів 1195 років тому
Linda describes her experience with Elliott & Associates and installation of her radon mitigation system
How Elliot and Assoc Can Help You Close On Your Home Faster
Переглядів 1065 років тому
How Elliot and Assoc Can Help You Close On Your Home Faster
Why You Should Choose Elliott & Associates Alison's Story
Переглядів 8616 років тому
Hear one homeowner's nightmare experience with a competitor, and how Elliott & Associates saved the day, and the sale of her home!
How Elliott & Associates Seals a Gravel Crawl Space
Переглядів 2,5 тис.7 років тому
How Elliott & Associates Seals a Gravel Crawl Space
U-Tube Troubleshooting A Radon Mitigation System
Переглядів 54 тис.7 років тому
U-Tube Troubleshooting A Radon Mitigation System
How to Unseal and Reseal Your Ground Water Sump Pit
Переглядів 178 тис.7 років тому
How to Unseal and Reseal Your Ground Water Sump Pit
How Elliott & Associates Seals Wall/Floor Joints and Floor Cracks in Your Basement
Переглядів 2577 років тому
How Elliott & Associates Seals Wall/Floor Joints and Floor Cracks in Your Basement
Radon Is Real - Community Awareness Video
Переглядів 7311 років тому
Radon Is Real - Community Awareness Video
My kids must of turned off the fan while playing outside. It is working again but the service light is still on. Thank you for this video
Very useful information. And thank you for getting to what one needs to know in a quick and concise manner.
Link to lid/cover you used?
This story is unique
Is it?
Yes
Wow
Wow
These LDVI couplers are a life saver. They will absorb the radon fan vibration. My wife and I were going crazy. It sounded like a helicopter was outside our window! Now there is almost no sound at all. Thank you for this product and this video.
Excellent how to video, thank you, I learned a whole lot!!! Now I truly know exactly what to do!!! 🤠
Imma use hydraulic cement for the cove joint.then imma go against my wifes advice ,dig outside around basement and use water proof paint on the exterior wall
Where is this exact sump cover what is it called
seal air tight without an air-vent... what is that a vacuum pump ?? "Air-behind-watet" wins
Super helpful video!
Silicone is the worst sealant for concrete, especially in a basement floor. Use polyurethane. It sticks to anything forever. I like Sika products because they're available at big box stores, but use whatever brand makes sense. For basement cracks use self-levelling poly. After filling the crack (which should be cleaned out first for minimal effort, or grind them out), run a putty knife over it to clean off excess. For cold joints, use non sag poly. If you have a large cold joint, use backer rod then sealant. That can get expensive and time consuming. I have used CLOSED CELL expanding foam instead of backer rod, cut to flush with the floor, and then self levelling on top of that.
Thank you for this info. I have a couple very thin cracks in my basement floor that water leaks up through sometimes. The polyurethane sealant would work for this?
@@peterwilson8696 That sounds like a much bigger problem, honestly. Do all of your gutters move water away from your foundation? If not, do that first. I spent some time and not too much money moving water away from my foundation and it made a huge difference in humidity and water infiltration. Anything, something like LOCTITE PL Concrete Non-Sag or Sika Fast Setting 10.1-fl oz Sealant might work for you. The trick, however, is getting sealant into the crack. If the cracks are hairline you should grind them out, which is a really messy proposition. If you just want to try it, buy a high quality caulk gun and only cut a small tip off the tube nozzle. When squeezing the caulk gun you want to press hard down onto the crack to fill it as much as possible. Then take a putty knife and skim off the top to make it flat.
So much great info, thanks!
@@TheDirtCreature thank you for the information! I will try that with the sealant. I do have one downspout that is not draining away from the house, and it is pooling up on one side. Sometimes it's bad, but it's on one end of the house, and the crack is centered in the middle of my basement.
@TheDirtCreature - Can you also suggest - What should I use ? A polyurethane - self leveling or no sag, for the edge where concrete wall meets the concrete floor, which has developed a gap/crack( hairline, less than 1/8th of an inch). I suspect it's letting the centepdes in, the unfinished area of my basement. Any specific brand product you would recommend?
What if it's uneven and the sump pump sounds like it's working hard?
Thank you for your help. The small plastic tube was in the pipe but had popped of the top of the meter. Now it's not level anymore, and the difference is almost 2". However the high side of the meter is at 1/4". Does red fluid ever have to be added, so both sides would be around "0" when the fan is not on ? If so what is the red fluid ? It is colored water or something unique ? Thanks again for your help- Dave
Special thanks to Lowell from Wings for the voiceover
I just checked my pump and it's definitely not sealed. I have 3 holes. One for pumping water out, one for hvac drainage, and one for the wires. None sealed and how I got a snake in my basement.
I hear water/gurgling
If you’re doing a video about reading your manometer, you might want to calibrate it first.
what is the indication is the level is below 1. say around 0.7/0.8. What would that indicate problem wise or is that also normal?
Thanks! Clear and to the point.
Is the Radon nonsense still being talked about or has that fad died out ?
Thought you were supposed to leave that open. Looks like you’re just using dry lok
Drylook DOES NOT work...tried this week !
The cove joint yes you're suppose to leave that gap alone but some seal it
☺️👍
Wouldn't it be more effective to open those cracks with a concrete grinder then caulk or seal it
$2000 over 10 years is $200 a year. Most fans cost $60 a year to run, so you are blowing smoke, my friend.
Homeowner here. My current device - which is not this Fantech variable EC - pulls 156 watts, so at 23 cents a kWh (high rate where I am) that's $315 a year. I don't know how many watts this fan could save, but lets say it's 33% (best case scenario, likely) it could save me $104 a year and $1250 over ten years. Def not the $2000 as mentioned in the video but not nothing. IMO, the bigger reason for this fan, is the ability to dial the fan in for your specific house radon need. Every house, radon system, static pressure, etc. is different, so to me, that's huge. A variable fan speed is the only way to fine tune a system for your specific circumstance. This fan will let you get the best possible radon reduction from your system, which to me, is the end goal. While I don't yet have this product, I have an older Fantech fan single speed which is running perfectly after nine years.
Awesome video. Simple to the point. Does the tube also exist for passive systems?
A third suction point? Wow!!!!!
Wow
Wow
Wow
Wow
Laying down tarps?
Saved me. It was a power issue, not a fan issue. Thanks!
If is sealed tight wouldn’t need a vent? Thanks.
Only thing missing here is you really should have another pipe that vents the pump to the exterior.
why ?
How to fill a one inch gap between basement floor and walls?
did you figure that out?
With hydraulic cement
where's part 2 or what is correct?
We just had a system put in and the levels are reading almost 4.5. Obviously there's pressure, but isn't this reading a bit high?
Did you ever figure this out? Ours is at 2.8.I have read .5 to 1.75 and don’t know if higher is worse. They put in a high powered fan and I wonder if it is too much. It’s very loud.
I am adjusting ¹and I am adjusting to that that
Thanks, exactly what I was looking for. Seems the bozo that recently installed the battery backup pump had no clue and did not reseal or fasten the lid. I have a large cutout around my pvc pipe so silicone will not work in that area. For now, I just used saran wrap to cover that area. There's actually a good deal of airflow being pulled into sump pit. I can hear it whistling through the crack in lid that i did not silicone yet. Is that normal? btw, you guys installed this system long ago. :)
I have similar issue re large cutout around pipe. I laid a 1/4" thick sheet of rubber with pipe-size hole on top of pit lid (which is flat, smooth plastic) and then caulked around the pipe and around the edges of the rubber sheet (as well as around the pit lid/floor joint of course). I hope that it's doing some good and that such an idea might be of help to you.
you guys need to vent the pit... it's not a vaccum pump, air-behind-water - Add an air one-way check-valve to allow air in but not out.... problem solved
Pl let me know the chemical or generic name of Caulk . I do not know whether it it available in India .We have a painted metal sump cover and there are gaps. I want to fill those gaps .
Thanks . Let me try if it is available in India and if so it's brand name . Hope once cured it will remain strong and after sometime remove it by cutting it with blade as shown in the video . Seal strongly and unseal as seen in the video is the reason why I got attracted .
Is there a need to vent the sump pump pit ? I see you sealed the pit but there is no vent.
Wouldn't venting defeat the entire purpose of the silly radon mitigation?
Usually a mitigation system has a pvc pipe in the pit, which has a fan to suck the air outside.. along with the sealed cover.
@@supobostarman not at all, it makes the silly nonsense look even more impressive
So by sealing the pit, does that impact the pump function at all? Wouldn't it create a huge vacuum when the pump runs and pushes the water out?
Probably not because there’s the drainage tubes that feed the sump.
You are exactly right, correct installation would include a second pipe going to the vent stack for the home...
@@EMTdrummer wrong!
If it’s a regular sump pit , your wrong ! But a grey water pit or one with radon mitigation then yes you need a vent
Is this for all sump basins or only those with radon issues? I'm in Michigan, new 2020 construction. I'm preparing to upgrade my current sump pump and it is not caulked/sealed. It does have rubber seals around pipes but it's not air tight.
The air tight seal is necessary for radon mitigation. If you just have a sump pump, you can leave it open, or place a suitable cover above the pit without sealing. In my area, older homes usually have it open, and new homes often have a wooden panel with hinges over it.
Where can i purchase that same replacement sump cover used in the video?
I just bought one from amazon for mine ... Lowes or Home Depot has a variety as well, but I wanted a solid one since my pit is empty.
Hi what kind of caulk/sealer did you use? My lids bolts are corroded and some of the bolt threads broke into the basins bolt holes. The basement is smelling pretty bad. Will this method make it air tight again? Thank you
Make sure you get 100% silicon
what is the sealant you use on wall to slab joints ?
Looks like dry lok caulk
all I seem to be hearing is that hydrostatic pressure will pop that right out.....????
And if the fan still doesn't spin after these steps (which I already had done), I assume that the fan needs to be replaced. How would one best go about this?
What was the first product used? It says high quality and durable but I’m curious if you recommend a specific brand? Much appreciated,thanks.
Is that the best you can come up with? That's a lot of work for something you need to open and close more than a few times...
You would think some kind split lid with a hinge and a air tight gasket could be made that would allow one to access the pit without having to go through all of that every time the pump needed to be checked on.
Thanks that solved my problem! Just saved me the service visit $$$$$
gloves homie....
Hi, I saw the video and I think it is useful. May I ask how can I buy the materials you use, like the sump cover.
Home depot, lowes, amazon.
It's caulk not cock silly