Відео

Thank you!

Build them early and set them outside to air out. Best of luck

I had to get longer ones for the extra panel thickness.

Thank you Best of luck

I would suggest referring back to the manufacturer’s specifications. You can go to their website and download what you need there. Best of luck!

Without going to the video, I’m assuming you’re talking about cutting the fingers for the box joint. The answer is yes and no. You most certainly could flip the board and get the same layout. However, I do it this way because of the tear out that can occur on the back side of the cut. It is usually minimal but I personally like to have it towards the inside of the box.

I made a slight adjustment to account for the added thickness for my headboard. However, the clearance is as required per the manufacturer’s specifications. These are critical dimensions for both hardware function and clearance. I would highly recommend sticking to their specified layout. Best of luck with your build and thanks for watching.

@@thesoutherncraftwoodshop4134 I'm actually using the hardware provided by Wilding Wallbeds, which is a bit different. So some adjustments are required.

That’s my preference. When I design a cabinet or a kitchen full of cabinets, I always start with the view from the front. So for me it just makes sense to build from the front back. This also gives me the benefit of using the face frame itself to lay out bulkheads or any other internal components within the cabinet. Having said that, I know several cabinet guys who approach it completely different. Nothing wrong with that at all, this is just the process that makes the most sense to me when I’m building. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I made the sides double thick because I wanted the thickness (1 1/2”) to be similar to the size of the side cabinets face frames (2”).

@@thesoutherncraftwoodshop4134 That makes sense. Thank you. I'm planning to build a Murphy Bed following what you've done here, including the cabinets. Have you made any plans or are your sketches available? Anything you'd change?

Yes

Thanks for the compliment! I must say though, you don’t have to be a master carpenter to enjoy woodworking. I certainly don’t consider myself one by any means. We all have to start somewhere. Whether that’s building your first birdhouse in your 60s or growing up watching your dad or grandpa build projects and pass down tricks of the trade. My best tip for the trade, other than safety first, would be to always enjoy yourself and steal. Yes, I said it! Steal from other woodworkers. Watch the what, why and how of what they are doing and learn from it. Best of luck and thanks for watching!

Very little. Maybe 2” at the most if I remember correctly.

@@thesoutherncraftwoodshop4134 Thank you! I have the kit. I have a older Murphy bed spring mechanism that I want to replace with this model. That's GREAT news!

Hello 👋 I really like your profile picture and if you let me, I would make such an amazing mural out of it! If you don’t mind one of your picture could be my inspiring muse for an art project i’m working on for a client. You will totally get paid for it as well as a bonus also get credits.

Sorry I do not. I built a few early on but I quickly decided it wasn’t worth it to me to build them.

I’m glad you found this video useful. Best of luck as you build over the winter.

45 degrees

Kenneth 😊

I really don’t remember off the top of my head, but I think it was somewhere around $1,600. I’m in rural MS so the same work in most large cities and or other regions of the country could go for double or even more. It all depends on regional materials cost, regional cost of living and the ease or difficulty getting to and from the project site. You also have the supply and demand factor to equate into it as well. Hope this was more helpful than confusing.

You could do that with an exterior grade of plywood. That’s how my pallets are made. For single bottom boards, I like the smaller planks for a number of reasons. The narrow planks tend to have less noticeable deflection from cupping making them easier to work with. They also allow room for expansion and contraction within each expansion joint. It’s also a good way for me to use up materials that would otherwise be scraped.

I’m somewhere around 50 at the moment.

I’ve never had an issue with them in the spring. The deeper into summer you get the more of an issue they become. I generally pull my traps down in early June.

or at least find the studs before the vanity comes in and hid the holes behind the vanity itself...

This part of the drywall is covered by the counter top and/or backsplash.

Thank you!

I’m not 100% sure what you’re asking. For doors I use a concealed Blum hinge with a 1/2” overlay. For drawers I typically use a full extension slides. I don’t see a lot of difference between the different brands on the market. I don’t recommend buying the soft close full extension slides that side mount as I’ve seen a high failure rate with them. If you want soft close I recommend you go with Blum bottom mounts.

I do typically make minor adjustments to my cut ticket to compensate for the differences in material thickness.

Richard 😊 is that you??

Thank you!

I’m using Cypress in the video. I actually use Southern Yellow Pine for most of my hives though.

Thank you And thanks for watching!

I bought a track saw about a year ago, and I've hardly used my table saw since.

You’re welcome Thanks for watching!

I’m using cypress in the video but I typically build out of Southern Yellow Pine for myself. Also, Eastern White Pine is a popular choice for many beekeepers. It has a lot to do with where you live and what’s most commonly available.

I don’t currently. I may try to draw one up and do a video in the Fall or early winter. That’s typically when I start building equipment.

Yes, an 8” thick mattress will work perfectly fine. The mattress in this video was approximately 10-11” thick if I remember correctly.